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Old 12-16-2009, 01:39 PM   #1
Sky Sharkster
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Default New Micro Warbirds From Gravity Hobby

Hello to all Warbird fans!
I just received my order from GravityHobby.com, and will post photos here. http://www.gravityhobby.com/home.php?cat=263
I ordered 2 R/C Warbirds and one Free Flight. The "Christmas Special" price is $15.99 each for the R/C version and $9.99 for the F/F models. Price including $9.45 S + H was $51.42. The R/C models I bought are the FW 190 A-3 + Zero. The Free Flight model is the Spitfire MK 14.
The total time for shipping was 10 days from initial order (via PayPal) to delivery, Miami to Denver.
These appear identical to the COX micros from a few years ago, they are polystyrene formed wings, EPS foam fuselage and sheet tail surfaces. All surfaces are painted with camo finish and appear well-made and lightweight.
Included are pushrods, micro control horns, fake radial engine (where applicable),brushed speed 130 motor, switch plate, canopy, 2 props with spinners, water slide decals and a 12 page instruction booklet with photos.
There are 8 models available, the P-51 Mustang, F4U Corsair, Spitfire Mk 14, P-40 Warhawk, Zero, P-47 Thunderbolt, Messerschmitt Bf 109, FW 190 A-3.
Specs for the FW 190 A-3;
Wingspan 20.5"
Length 18.5"
RTF Weight 5 Ounces
Needed to complete;
Micro 3-4 Channel Rx
Micro 7.2 volt 7 amp ESC
2 Micro servos
2/3 AAA 6 cell NiMH Pack 7.2 volt (or 2s 450 mah LiPo)
Here's the first photos.
Ron


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Old 12-17-2009, 12:02 AM   #2
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Subscribed, looking forward to a flight report. Do you think they would do well indoors?

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Old 12-17-2009, 01:24 AM   #3
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Default

I've had the Corsair, still have the Zero although it dosn't fly anymore, and have a spitfire in the box. They are not indoor flyers as when finished they usually weigh between 5-8oz and don't have a very light wingloading. However these things absoutely excel at having a 10-19 gram outrunner put in them and maybe ailerons they are fantastic little pocket rockets. Or so I've read.

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Old 12-17-2009, 02:04 AM   #4
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Default

I have the old Cox p40 and p47 RTF sets, these kits look identical, as heavy as the stock ones were and they flew ok, it would be easy to make them much lighter and fly better,

about the indoor thing, in a very large gym, it might be possible, I know the RTF versions flew pretty slow, and you could keep them in a small space if you needed to...

I may have to pickup a couple of these for micro setups later....

any idea what you do for a micro outrunner firewall?

SK

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Old 12-17-2009, 03:03 AM   #5
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Default Indoors or Out?

Hi James,
I agree with C.C., they may be too heavy and fast for indoor flight, unless you have a huge site!
I saw several of the COX models fly 2 years ago, they were modded with 12mm Fiegio inrunners on direct drive, LiPos and sub-micro servos. They were fast, took up quite a bit of airspace to maneuver (relatively speaking) and a real handful. I wanted to get one or two but COX always seemed to be "Out of stock" and eventually they discontinued the models.
So when i heard about these, I decided to try it. I have a couple of micro outrunners and 300mah-450mah 2-cell LiPos handy.
Hi Steve,
I plan to make a firewall from thin ply (1/16") that's shaped like the inside of the fuselage about 1-1/2" back from the prop and use a flat motor mount. I'll have to measure the length to have the prop in the same location. Will post photos when I try it. That's one reason I bought the radial-engine models, so there would be room for a larger-diameter motor.
I weighed the separate components, here's the totals;
Wing 20.4 grams
Entire Tail 3.6 grams
Fuselage 15.5 grams
Motor 22.8 grams (this is the included brushed motor)
Canopy 2.8 grams
Prop/Spinner/Switch 3.3 grams
_____________________________
Total = 68.7 grams, about 2.4 ounces
This is without control system, servos, Rx, Battery, glue, etc. The outrunners I have weigh 10-12 grams and the batteries are 15-18 grams each. So, 4 to 5 ounces RTF sounds about right.
Here's a few more photos, I took one of the wing from the tip, to show the thickness and airfoil.
Ron


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Old 12-18-2009, 06:09 PM   #6
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Default Micro Zero

Here's photos and weights for the micro Zero from Gravity. I forgot to mention the clear-plastic formed "chin" protector, this also came with the FW 190. Hope it shows up in the photos. The basic Zero airframe, wing, fuselage, tail and canopy weighs 52 grams, about the same as the FW.
Ron


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Old 12-18-2009, 09:54 PM   #7
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I noticed they have free flight versions. These look a lot more sturdy than the Revel ones I got for my son. Cheaper too. I'll have to pick some up.
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Old 12-18-2009, 10:04 PM   #8
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These appear to be identical to the Cox Micro's. Good to see somebody is making them again.

Guess I'll have to order up a couple since I have some left over stock running gear from the old ones.

Very Cool!

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Old 12-20-2009, 04:20 AM   #9
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Default FW190

Got mine from the LHS recently. I plan to upgrade with a 10 gram brushless mtr from HC. Also need to figure out how to convert to airlerons and elevator. I plan to fix the rudder. Suggestions or has anyone done this conversion? Marty

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...Outrunner_(10g)

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Old 12-20-2009, 11:13 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by scalercflyer View Post
Got mine from the LHS recently. I plan to upgrade with a 10 gram brushless mtr from HC. Also need to figure out how to convert to airlerons and elevator. I plan to fix the rudder. Suggestions or has anyone done this conversion? Marty

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...Outrunner_(10g)
There's a guy on RCG that did alot of those conversions... I think the last one I saw, he mounted the servo on the bottom of the wing, and used micro pushrod tubeing to go both directions without any binding... I'll have to try digging up a link...

SK

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Old 12-20-2009, 01:33 PM   #11
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Default Micro Ailerons?

Hi Marty,
I couldn't find the link Steve mentioned, but did find this, post # 297;
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...812119&page=20
Here the builder used one micro servo in the wing center, straight pushrods out to the ailerons, then cut-down servo arms as bellcranks to redirect the motion 90 degrees.
The flexible micro pushrod tubing method would eliminate the bellcranks, but the curve must be fairly shallow to reduce the friction and binding.
I believe either set-up will work if properly constructed.
Here is a micro outrunner on a stick mount, also shows servo and battery mounting;
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post10140093
Here's a Feigao 12mm inrunner set-up;
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=29
Good Luck!
Ron
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:08 AM   #12
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Default Building the FW 190

Hello Everyone,
Here's my build thread of the GravityHobby FW 190 A-3.
After reading the instruction booklet, I began by applying the tape hinges to the elevator/stab and rudder/fin. Then I made pinholes and cut a shallow groove for the wire joiner.
I roughened the wire with #100 sandpaper and epoxied it in place. While it was drying I held the elevator in alignment with a straight edge.
Next I started fitting the electronics to the fuselage. First I marked where the motor mount would be for the 10 gram outrunner, trying to keep the same downthrust as the original motor.
Then I removed some foam from the lower compartment of the nose. I plan to use a 2s 300mah LiPo, here's the fit.
Then, a place for one servo.
So far, no problems!
Ron


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Old 12-21-2009, 01:26 AM   #13
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Default FW190

Excellent Ron! I assume you are doing the airleron modification you spoke about? If so keep us up to date. I will be right behind you on this build. BTW, what prop do you plan to use? Also wanted to tell you Guys that I use 3 1/2" floppy disc material for the hinges. No unsigthly tape on the hinge. I use this method on all of my planes including my Formosa which see some hard flying. I have yet to have a hinge fail. I use a single edge razor blade and cut a slit into the hinge area on the stab, elevator, etc. Then I put a small tube on my CA bottle and wick it into the slots after I join the pieces together. A little shot of accelerator and it's done. Try it. You might like it. Marty

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Old 12-21-2009, 01:37 AM   #14
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Default Not Yet...

Hi Marty,
On this model I plan to have only rudder, elevator and throttle. The upgrades are the brushless motor (outrunner) and lipoly battery.
The prop sizes for this motor with 2s LiPoly are 5" x 3" and 5.5" x 3". I also intend to test a 6" x 3" SF for amp draw and (possible) overheating.
The prop that is included is a 5" diameter, don't know the pitch.
If it works out well, I'll put aileron control (instead of rudder) on the Zero.
I have tried the floppy disc material as a hinge material and it works well, it seems more flexible than CA hinges. I used it on a balsa model, never tried it on foam. I roughened the surface slightly to aid adhesion, don't know if it was necessary, but they've never pulled out!
Thanks for the interest,
Ron
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:56 AM   #15
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Default Bulkheads, Motor Mount

As I was placing the servos in the fuselage, it occured to me that it would be nice to have a couple of bulkheads to route and support the pushrods.
But how to figure out the inside shape of a formed fuselage half? Well, I was going to have to do a similar job on the nose for the motor mount, so I used a trick I've done before. Don't know if it's well-known or not, but here goes;
#200 Sandpaper, cut to fit inside the fuselage at the location.
Scrap wood, this is 1/16" balsa, cut to approximate size.
Scrape the wood against the 'paper. It's a bit of a squeeze, fingers, paper, wood, but eventually you end up with a piece that is shaped like the inside of the fuselage. I made a second piece for the other side the same way.
Now the nose (half), start out with a nearly square piece and sand away.
Done! Took about 1/2 hour total.
Hope it's useful,
Ron


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Old 12-24-2009, 11:21 PM   #16
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Default More Firewall

Here's the latest on the firewall for the micro outrunner conversion. I transfered the balsa outline to a 3/32" "Lite" ply version. I traced it, cut a rough outline with a Zona Saw and finished it be hand with a sanding block, then the inevitable test, fit, sand, test...etc.
From saw-cut to satisfactory fit, then the lightening holes, it took about an hour.
But the results are worth it; Here's the weights, compared to just the brushed motr/spinner/prop. The ply mount alone weighs 1 gram.
I also fit the brushed motor with prop into it's slot, to see how the downthrust looked. I traced this angle as best I could on the front page of the manual. Then I "eyeballed" the same angle onto the fuselage inside for the ply mount.
Ron


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Old 12-25-2009, 04:09 AM   #17
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Default Motor mount

Here's the installation of the motor mount. I mixed microballoons with the 30 minute epoxy. This not only keeps the weight down, it fills gaps well.
The total weight gain of the epoxy is 2/10 of a gram, not bad!
Later installed the rear formers, plain epoxy for these.
Ron


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Old 12-25-2009, 05:22 AM   #18
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Thumbs up

Ron, I just wanted to thank you for starting this thread. I am glad that Gravity Hobby revived Cox's line of microwarbirds. I am following your lead here; I still have 3 original Cox planes that are getting the brushless inrunner, ply firewall, and LiPo upgrade. That 130 is ridiculously heavy for pretty modest performance (never could get mine to fly well with small NiMh).

"Dum spiro spero." (While I breathe, I hope).
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Old 12-25-2009, 01:18 PM   #19
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Default Motor Mount Done

Hello V2C,
Glad to hear you're following this; For a while I thought I was alone here!
Here's the final step in the B/L outrunner motor mount. I used a pin vise to drill pilot holes for the motor backplate. These are small wood screws, I will cut the excess off the screws later, to keep the sharp edges down to a minimum.
The motor fits perfectly, I tried the "Radial" faceplate and it's centered well. doesn't look like it in the 3rd photo but the angle of the camera/fuselage is deceiving. Downthrust look OK, I'll make a provision to remove the motor, so the thrustline can be adjusted after fuselage halves are joined.
Now I can go open presents!
Merry Christmas!!
Ron


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Old 12-26-2009, 01:42 PM   #20
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Default Servo Mounting

With a bit of free time this AM, I installed the 2 servos into the fuselage.
First I centered the servos with the TX.
Put servo arm on servo, sticking straight towards center of fuselage.
Then I placed the elevator servo (without tape) and made sure the movement was correct; "Up stick is Push". Control horn on bottom of elevator, push is "Up".
Hook "Z" end of pushrod through servo arm hole.
Put small piece of servo tape in fuselage.
Removed backing from servo tape, stuck servo in place.
Repeat for rudder servo. Sharp-eyed readers will note I forgot (#[email protected]&!) to install the screw that holds the servo arm in place. Until after the servo was firmly in place. Rip out the tape? I don't think so.
Small needle-nose pliers to line up the screw. Drill a hole in the cockpit "floor" aligned with the screw. Stick thin screwdriver into hole, line it up with screw. Turn screw.
Now all works well and is secure. Double-checked movement, wire alignment, servo assignments on Tx.
Took about an hour.
Ron


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Old 12-26-2009, 02:00 PM   #21
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You're not alone Ron . Some great info here, I love the trick in post #15.

It doesn't look like it will be long before it's ready for a maiden.

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Old 12-26-2009, 02:08 PM   #22
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Default Missed the screw too

Don't feel bad sky, I've done it before too. :o Marty

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Old 12-26-2009, 02:10 PM   #23
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Default your example

I will be following your example/trick to install the BL 10 gram mtr. Looks like the way to go. BTW, I had pushrod flexing problems with my spit. I see you have a solution that I will follow also. Marty

Never fly straight and level for more than 30 seconds in a combat zone. Just say no to red airplanes!
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Old 12-26-2009, 04:33 PM   #24
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Default So Far, So Good!

Hi James,
Thanks, that's a trick I thought up for pre-formed fuselages, don't know if it's ever been published. I also used it on the GWS Zero, to change the incidence of the wing. I used the wing center-section as a sanding block.
Hi Marty,
Glad to hear I'm not the only one! I surely didn't want to tear the tape out, that stuff is strong.
The bulkhead helps the flex somewhat, but I'm thinking about adding another one further rearward. If I had to do it over, I'd use (only) one, about 1/2 way back of the unsupported length.
Got your message, sent you one also.
Ron
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Old 12-26-2009, 04:55 PM   #25
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Looking good...

SK

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