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Converting PZ Spitfire to brushless

Old 08-22-2008, 03:46 AM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
Thanks alot SCC i'll get to work on that tomorrow .so the male is the 1 that you actually plug "in" and the female is the one that you plug "into" right ? sorry for being a dumb dumb lol
Oh, and one more thing - you might run into a prob with the length of your motor leads + the ones on the ESC not being enough to let you mount your ESC where you thought you could. Best to think about that before you start soldering. It is okay to add a few inches to the wires on the motor side if neccesary, but solder and shrink them as neatly as possible.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:21 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
Oh, and one more thing - you might run into a prob with the length of your motor leads + the ones on the ESC not being enough to let you mount your ESC where you thought you could. Best to think about that before you start soldering. It is okay to add a few inches to the wires on the motor side if neccesary, but solder and shrink them as neatly as possible.
Thanks alot buddy and by the way dont struggle to avoid the massive potential for humor,I make myself laugh with the questions I ask sometimes lol.
I was also thinking that the leads on the esc and the motor looked a bit on the short side,How would I add a few inches to the wires ?
Has anyone got any step by step pictures they wanna post here of there spitfire brushless conversion ? I would be really interested to see the different ways people do it.
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:27 PM
  #153  
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Right I know Im a dumb dumb at this but Im just about to start soldering and why have I got 2 wires(red and balck) coming from the battery end of the esc ? does one go to the battery and the other one goes to the charger ? if so what colour goes to what ?
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:40 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
Right I know Im a dumb dumb at this but Im just about to start soldering and why have I got 2 wires(red and balck) coming from the battery end of the esc ? does one go to the battery and the other one goes to the charger ? if so what colour goes to what ?

Nope. They both go to the battery CONNECTOR man. Red is positive, black is negative. DONT solder the battery on permanently.

Ideally you would have two of the same type of connectors, one for the battery and one for the charger.

The charger stays on the ground.

Here's a vid on soldering the bullet connectors, check the "related" column for stuff about soldering battery terminals (Dean's are favorite).

IMPORTANT - Always solder the male connector bit to the ESC and the female to the battery. If you think about this for a second, you'll understand why.
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:47 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
Nope. They both go to the battery man. Red is positive, black is negative.

The charger stays on the ground.

Here's a vid on soldering the connectors, check the "related" column for stuff about soldering battery terminals.

IMPORTANT - Always solder the male end to the ESC and the female to the battery. If you think about this for a second, you'll understand why.
Oh yeah yeah yeah sorry man Im a dumb ass ive just looked at it and got it , so red goes to red and black to black on the deans yeah ?
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
Thanks alot buddy and by the way dont struggle to avoid the massive potential for humor,I make myself laugh with the questions I ask sometimes lol.
I was also thinking that the leads on the esc and the motor looked a bit on the short side,How would I add a few inches to the wires ?
Has anyone got any step by step pictures they wanna post here of there spitfire brushless conversion ? I would be really interested to see the different ways people do it.

Regarding the motor conversion, I think there are a few threads with lots of pics, not sure if they are as detailed as soldering techniques but they are around.

you wires - well, what you'd need to do is get a few feet of high-quality STRANDED wire, AWG 12-14 (or match your ESC's wire size if you can) probably from your local hobby shop (silicon insulation is favorite) and then cut three pieces to length (no more than a few inches). I tend to use two black and one red just to help keep track. remove about 3-4mm of insulation from one end of the wires, tin them up, and solder them to the motor wires. after you have a good solid bond, slide a piece of shrinktube over the joint and hit it with the lighter.

bam, done. I apologize if I make assumptions here but I've been soldering for a long time. Just takes a little practice and a few tried and true best practices (tinning wires, wet sponge to clean your soldering tip, good steady temperature from a decent gun, preferably pencil-type)

Loads of stuff on the web to help you out.

Cheers,
gru
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:57 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
Oh yeah yeah yeah sorry man Im a dumb ass ive just looked at it and got it , so red goes to red and black to black on the deans yeah ?
yeap.

if you wanna be sure, do this: if you look at the Dean's on the side where the terminals are (NOT the side with the spring steel tabs) you'll see a + and a - next to the respective terminals, its embossed into the plastic. Put your shrink tube on before you solder too.
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Old 08-23-2008, 12:54 AM
  #158  
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right im all soldered up ok but now im at the binding stage with the dx6i, in the manual its showing pics of loads of leads and a reciever switch which says "not included" next to it .surely I can bind it without all this? Ive spent a fortune on parts and if i cant set it up coz of a feckin reciever switch and a couple leads i wont be happy . Please help ,heres a pic of what ive got :
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Old 08-23-2008, 02:15 AM
  #159  
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I am not too sure what exactly you have there with your radio, it looks like two Rx?

Anyhoo connect the esc to the Rx, then put the bund plug into the slot that the directions tell you, plug in battery, turn on radio while holding down the botton on the back and wait for some light to come on, power off and then you are good to go. lol or atleast it should be as simple as that.
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post
I am not too sure what exactly you have there with your radio, it looks like two Rx?

Anyhoo connect the esc to the Rx, then put the bund plug into the slot that the directions tell you, plug in battery, turn on radio while holding down the botton on the back and wait for some light to come on, power off and then you are good to go. lol or atleast it should be as simple as that.

That is a Spektrum RX with a remote reciever, looks like it might be a AR6200.

Binding with the DX6i is different, as it doesn't have the range test button on the back like our beloved 7. I believe you have to hold the trainer switch in a certain position.

EDIT: Aha I see, reading the manual, it mentions the receiver switch. this only applies when you are using a separate power supply for the receiver. Judging by the servo connector coming out of the ESC, yours has a BEC, a Battery Eliminator Circuit, which eliminates the need for a separate battery by using juice from your LiPo. Disregard.


Once again, we visit You Tube for some help.



Pay no attention to the poor Engarish.

Last edited by groundrushesup; 08-23-2008 at 04:18 AM. Reason: added info about Rx switch from manual
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:42 AM
  #161  
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As previously stated, you only use a RX switch when your using an external battery for the RX. Such as when using Gliders, Nitro models or when using a ESC that doesn't have a BEC. Just ignore this, hook it all up and you should be fine.

To bind the AR6200 to the DX6i, install the Binding plug onto the BATT connection of the AR6200, power up the model (with the 3x motor wires disconnected) whilst holding the trainer switch towards you, turn on the radio. This will flash "Binding" and after a few seconds you can release the Trainer switch. You will now be able to control the model with the radio and remove the binding plug from the AR6200.

Remember to remove the binding plug after binding is complete.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:44 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
That is a Spektrum RX with a remote reciever, looks like it might be a AR6200.

Binding with the DX6i is different, as it doesn't have the range test button on the back like our beloved 7. I believe you have to hold the trainer switch in a certain position.

EDIT: Aha I see, reading the manual, it mentions the receiver switch. this only applies when you are using a separate power supply for the receiver. Judging by the servo connector coming out of the ESC, yours has a BEC, a Battery Eliminator Circuit, which eliminates the need for a separate battery by using juice from your LiPo. Disregard.


Once again, we visit You Tube for some help.



Pay no attention to the poor Engarish.
Thanks buddy your a star,i'll be checking youtube alot more often now lol.Im gonna give the binding a go in a minute
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Old 08-23-2008, 01:55 PM
  #163  
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Do u think it will be ok to use my new battery just for binding and to see that everything works ? I havnt got my charger yet so i cant charge it
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:26 PM
  #164  
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Yes that will be fine, they are shipped part charged anyway so as long as you don't attempt to fly with it, you will be ok.
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:28 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
Yes that will be fine, they are shipped part charged anyway so as long as you don't attempt to fly with it, you will be ok.
Thanks buddy
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:52 PM
  #166  
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now ive hit another problem , the spitfires standard servo connectors for the ailerons and elevator wont fit into the AR6200,theyre too big . What do i do now ? cant believe it
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Old 08-23-2008, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
now ive hit another problem , the spitfires standard servo connectors for the ailerons and elevator wont fit into the AR6200,theyre too big . What do i do now ? cant believe it
You will need two new servos, this is something you should od anyways because of the speed this plane will travel at. I used a HS-81 servo for the wing and a stock parkzone servo that was for the typhoon to control the elevon.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post
You will need two new servos, this is something you should od anyways because of the speed this plane will travel at. I used a HS-81 servo for the wing and a stock parkzone servo that was for the typhoon to control the elevon.
Oky doky thanks DH, I havnt got a typhoon servo for the elevon so what one do u think I should get for that ? cant I use a HS-81 for the elevon too ?
I dont understand servos at all
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:21 PM
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You don't need to replace the servos, the Parkzone servos have a locating lug on them and this doesnt go into the AR6200. You will probably need to remove the locating lug that runs down the connector, you can do this with a sharp knife.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:31 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
You don't need to replace the servos, the Parkzone servos have a locating lug on them and this doesnt go into the AR6200. You will probably need to remove the locating lug that runs down the connector, you can do this with a sharp knife.
Just scissored them off cheers buddy, my first bit of modding lol.Can anyone explain servos to me ? and why the elevater ones are different to the ailerons and whats torque etc and what makes some servos better than others ?
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:56 PM
  #171  
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I thought they were both Parkzone SV80 or SV60 (can't remember)

Anyway inside a servo is a small motor and a series of gears. On the output shaft (where the servo horn attaches) there is a potentiometer connected to the output shaft, this potentiometer works like a volume control on a radio, depending on the position of the servo, the value the "Pot" sends back to the servo control is different.

Now when you move the radio stick, this sends a signal to the receiver and this then sends a signal to the servo, a value is sent to the servo and the servo then tries to set the pot to match this value, in doing so, the output shaft is moved in order to set the desired position. When you move the stick, it sends a different value to the servo which then tries to set its pot to the this updated value, the side effect of this is that the servo horn moves and this in turn moves the control surface.

I hope someone else can explain this better for you.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:38 PM
  #172  
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replace the wing servo with a HS-81 it's a bigger servo and stronger

because of how the control arms travels thru the wing and the fact you will be going much faster then everyone else with this plane, i would think it would be smart move to replace atleast the wing servo. IMO
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:29 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post
replace the wing servo with a HS-81 it's a bigger servo and stronger

because of how the control arms travels thru the wing and the fact you will be going much faster then everyone else with this plane, i would think it would be smart move to replace atleast the wing servo. IMO
An HS-81 has over two ft-lbs of torque at BEC voltage. Is that necessary you think? I have a DS285 that so far works great on the bench, and it only delivers a single ft-pound (16.6 oz-in.) Not trying to be argumentative, but I am wondering if I am underdoing it here. I have flown this plane but not BTTW, as I have not done the CF Mod yet.

This servo works fine on my 'Stang, but they are different birds: the mustang does not have the radius on the control wires that the Spitfire does.

*** I also highly recommend using a collar linkage on the servo arm rather than just the bends in the music wire. You can keep the bends as a backup (threaded through the collar, natch), but having a single point of adjustment on the control arm helped me better center my servo of choice, as well as fine tune throws without bothering the loctite I put on the screwdowns on the actual aileron linkages. Those things come loose way too often for my liking.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:37 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
An HS-81 has over two ft-lbs of torque at BEC voltage. Is that necessary you think? I have a DS285 that so far works great on the bench, and it only delivers a single ft-pound (16.6 oz-in.) Not trying to be argumentative, but I am wondering if I am underdoing it here. I have flown this plane but not BTTW, as I have not done the CF Mod yet.

This servo works fine on my 'Stang, but they are different birds: the mustang does not have the radius on the control wires that the Spitfire does.

*** I also highly recommend using a collar linkage on the servo arm rather than just the bends in the music wire. You can keep the bends as a backup (threaded through the collar, natch), but having a single point of adjustment on the control arm helped me better center my servo of choice, as well as fine tune throws without bothering the loctite I put on the screwdowns on the actual aileron linkages. Those things come loose way too often for my liking.
Now your just showing off
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:51 PM
  #175  
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I used the HS-81 in both my FW190 conversion and in the Spitfire conversion, they are well known for being bullet proof and i find it has little issue moving the control surface as far as they need to move.

You could go with less, but when you expect to go 130km i would error on the side or caution, which is why the CF rods are a smart idea when you travel that fast, besides they really aren't that much $$$ and it could be used later on other projects.
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