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Mini Telemaster Build thread

Old 10-07-2005, 03:30 PM
  #1  
rcers
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Default Mini Telemaster Build thread

Well I thought I would do my next build thread here on Wattflyer instead of the other site.

I wanted to build the Airtronics Q-Tee, my first RC airplane. It was crashed into a brick wall into a million pieces on its first flight. (I was self taught!).

Sadly it is no longer available. Plans used to be available from RCM magazine, but sadly they are now gone too. So I didn't want to send money for plans and wonder.....

Anyway, another classic plane is the Hobby Lobby Telemaster. They have a Mini version that should be perfect for my brushless system installed in my slow stick. Since my son just totalled the slow stick, I thought this would be a great build and use for that airborn equipment.

Let me know what you think!

Mike
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:22 PM
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Good idea, Mike! My Mini Telemaster has been a great plane. It's easy to build and flies well on moderate power, especially after a minor improvement or two. There shouldn't be any surprises for you as an experienced builder, but be aware that it is very easy to introduce a warp into the horizontal stabilizer and/or wing when covering with anything heavier than So-lite--not a problem, just something to pay attention to. You may also wish to enlarge the area of the rudder. My plane had issues in yaw control with the intended rudder size--I simply added a strip 1/2" wide at the bottom and 1/4" wide at the top to the rear of the rudder. It has very good tracking and performs rudder rolls now, without losing any of its good habits. Just my 2cents. I think you'll enjoy the plane and look forward to seeing what you come up with!
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:25 PM
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very easy to introduce a warp into the horizontal stabilizer and/or wing when covering with anything heavier than So-lite--not a problem
Yep I have a great trick for that, you actually put the surface on a flat table and tape the covering over the top of the surface, then shrink. Keeps the surface flat.

enlarge the area of the rudder.
Thanks for the tip - keep them comming! I will be adding ailerons, so I may just stick with the stock size, but it is a bit smallish.....

MIke
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:26 PM
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Kit contents right out of the box....

Laser cut ribs and center pieces. Lots of sticks for the fuse and tail feathers. Will still be a very easy build as buzzbomber confirms!
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Old 10-07-2005, 04:33 PM
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Here we go with last nights work - exactly 1 hour 40 minutes to have a wing that is framed!

I am adding ailerons, so as you can see from the pic I added a strip of 1/4" balsa to the trailing edge (TE) ribs to be the new TE. I will use the formed TE stock as the actual aileron surface. Super easy to do!

I should note that I also decreased the dihedral, since I will be using ailerons. DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU USE RUDDER ONLY! It will severly limit the effectiveness of the rudder, and your plane won't turn!
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Old 10-08-2005, 02:01 AM
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I've had my fuse built for over a year now. I've been waiting to get around to building the wing with flaps and ailerons. Problem is, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.


Joe
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Old 10-08-2005, 08:07 PM
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I will race you Joe!

I like stick builds, slows me down a bit and I can cut, sand, cut, sand, cut and sand.

It has been great fun so far! My fuse should be done today if the Honey Do's dont come....

Mike
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Old 10-08-2005, 09:24 PM
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Nice Job, Mike. I am just watching your thread with this bird because it will probably be my next project after the Cessna 150 is complete. The kit sitting in my house waiting to be built. Hopefully, you will post a video of it flying when complete.

Tom
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Old 10-08-2005, 09:26 PM
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I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed the stick build too. It's great to keep sanding just a little at a time to get a perfect fit for a multi angle cross brace. I may even cover it in transparent just to show off the build.


Joe
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Old 10-10-2005, 03:53 PM
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I may even cover it in transparent just to show off the build.
Yep I am debating that as well. It would look really nice.....

Great fun getting all those angles right. I have never built a plane with NO FORMERS before! It is cool to just use sticks.

More pics tonight....

Mike
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:34 PM
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Looks great mike I am building the big brother right know the .40 size. You want sticks get your hands on this one I am really intrested in the build might want to build the smaller version to cart around in my car in case i want to get some flight time in on the way home from work since I pass our field on the way home. Keep up the good work.
Dave
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Old 10-11-2005, 12:01 AM
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I built a .40 size Telemaster back in the 80's. The hardest part of flying that plane was landing it. It didn't want to land! I've never seen anything float like that thing did. I always had to dead stick it because the small amout of thrust at idle would always cause me to overshoot my landings. That was a great airplane. I may electrify one someday. In addition to the mini TM that is.


Joe
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Old 10-11-2005, 01:02 AM
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Thats what I heard about the telemaster 40 was that its a floater this is the hobby lobby setup for electric I am adding the flaps so I might not need them to land. Its a nice plane to build hopefully soon I will get off twelve hours and seven days so I can build some more.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:20 AM
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Some more build pics.......

Here is the fuse, never built one without formers before!
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:23 AM
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Now for the firewall. I have an PJS 550 E motor that I will use on this.

The firewall position was just a bit too forward, and the motor stuck out too far. Simple fix, I will mount it from the rear and just added some scrap around the mount holes. Worked great!
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:24 AM
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The tail feathers are built up, very standard and easy to do.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:30 AM
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Joined the wing tonight.

I am using or rather adding ailerons, so I didn't want the 3" of dihedral in the wing. I cut that to 1.25" total as the ailerons will assist in turns.

This meant that I had to re-do the center ply dihedral brace. So I cut a new one from lite-ply with a touch less than half of the angle in it.

Make sure that fit it nice and tight on the inside of the spars to make and "I" beam. The wing not folding depends on this! So take all the time necessary to make sure that it fits against both spars top and bottom in both sides of the wing. Also make sure that it hits the ribs at 90 degress tight against the ribs to transfer the loads to the shear webs in the next bay of ribs. This too is critical to the strength of the wing.

I used 30 minute epoxy to joint the halves. I leave the wing with one panel flat on the board, and the other panel proped up in the air, supported with a book, so everything stays nice and flat.

I take the wing off the table in 1 hour (30 minute epoxy) and then will leave the clamps on overnight. The following pic shows my fancy clothes pin clamps!
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Old 10-11-2005, 04:41 AM
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Thanks for posting your progress. Once I finish all the wings for the Mountain Models EVA I may drag my mini TM out for a little more work. I'm not overly impressed with my AXI 2212/34 but it ought to work fine in this plane. I'll have to do some brainstorming and get the flaps worked into the design. Who cares if they're very effective. They'll mainly be for looks.


Joe
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:26 PM
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Joe that AXI would be perfect for this plane. My 550 e motor is just about the same. A 10x3.8 or 9x6 SF type props on 3s pull 10amps. Max for my motor (and yours) and it will pull this plane easily.

I eventually plan on using this for some aerial photography. Should be fun!

Mike
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Old 10-12-2005, 12:29 AM
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I've been flying the AXI in a Dandy and a SwitchBack. I know that BEC knows much more about motors than I ever will but his idea of an afterburner is much different than mine. The motor runs fine and is very quiet. It just isn't the powerhouse I expected based on the "silent afterburner" thread on RCG. It's probably the most docile motor I have but the TM won't need a lot of power to fly well.


Joe
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Old 10-12-2005, 08:10 AM
  #21  
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I am following this closely as I just got the kit,motor ESC from HL. Not going to do mine for awhile yet but this will help me I am sure. I read on another thread that the wing warps easily when covering so I hope you cover that in this thread. I am thinking about putting balsa planking on the wing center section since I also read of problems with damage from the rubber bands..
Gene
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Deereret View Post
I am thinking about putting balsa planking on the wing center section since I also read of problems with damage from the rubber bands..
Gene
I didn't foresee this possibility when I built mine, and the rubber bands were a bit too small, so they did crush the wing trailing edge a bit. What I did was cut two small pieces of aluminum soda can, about 1/2" wide x 3/4" long, folded in half and placed on the TE where the rubber bands hold it down--works great!
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Old 10-12-2005, 03:45 PM
  #23  
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balsa planking on the wing center section since I also read of problems with damage from the rubber bands..
Rubber bands are a big pain, and truthfully when you have enought to keep the wing on properly, they won't "pop off" and save you wing.

So mine will be a bolt on wing for sure. I have not figured out how I will do that just yet however. The front does not yeild itself to a typical dowel setup. Still thinking about that one. Maybe bolts front and back....

Mike
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:55 PM
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Wink Minnie Telemaster

I have a Minnie Telemaster that I built for a Norvel .061 and flew it two or three times and now I have converted it to an electric by installing an E-Fligt 370 motor. 8 amp ESC and a 3 cell Li-Po battery. I get 10 - 12 min flights on it.


Crashaddit
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Old 10-13-2005, 01:11 AM
  #25  
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rcers, Let us know how you end up doing the wing. Are you going to add a battery hatch in the bottom of the fuselage? I would be most interested how you do that. Continue to post pictures as they are a major help to me. You know the old saying about the worth of a picture.
Gene
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