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Mini Telemaster Build thread

Old 11-09-2005, 03:46 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Deereret View Post
My fuse is about half done ( I work slooow). I will be using HS 55's also so this will help. It looks like in the 2nd pic from the right that the push rods cross. Is this the way they are or am I seeing things? Thanks.
Gene
Yep they do cross!

Typically(not always), push-rods do cross to allow the end an easier angle to exit the fuselage at the aft end. Mine are set up this way as well. Try to avoid letting the push-rods rub against one another (metal-metal or carbon-carbon) as this can cause radio interference.
Exactly right. I need in fact to do a spacer for them as they now rub together. Two more short lengths of tube for the rear end will solve that, or a balsa separator.

Mike
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:04 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
The wing dowel was tricky as the wing is really the highest point of the fuse. So how about glueing the wing dowel to the bottom side of ribs. This lowers where it hits. A bit of fiberglass tape (very light stuff) to give just a touch more security. Remember the loads on the front of the wing are much higher than the rear.
What's the little block near the end of the dowel?
Gene
OOOps I went back and looked. I think it's one of the aileron servo mopunting blocks. I will do bolt on wings but no ailerons.
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:18 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Deereret View Post
What's the little block near the end of the dowel?
Gene
OOOps I went back and looked. I think it's one of the aileron servo mopunting blocks. I will do bolt on wings but no ailerons.
Yep that is it.....
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Old 11-24-2005, 07:51 PM
  #54  
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Well lookie and what got done over the last couple of days!!!
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Old 11-24-2005, 07:57 PM
  #55  
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It flies exactly like larger Telemasters, slow and beautiful! It flew hands off, right from a 7ft roll. It is proped for 7.3 amps with the 9x4.7 APC-sf prop and PJS 550SF motor.

AUW is - are you ready for this......

17.3oz! That is with the Tanic 1550 3s pack.

Loops are effortless - even at 7.3amps and it flies inverted quite well! Rolls are very slow, and stall turns are breathtaking.

A fantastic flier. Lets put it this way, I was doing touch and goes, first touching only the left wheel then only the right wheel. Does that tell you how gentle this is!

Fantastic plane, cant wait to get the camera in it!

Mike
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Old 11-25-2005, 11:42 PM
  #56  
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Wow that was fast at the end. Good lookin plane. I saw the TW pivot arrangement but can you fill me in on how you tied it to the rudderThanks
Gene
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Old 11-25-2005, 11:53 PM
  #57  
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Gene I just drill a small hole in the rudder and slip the wire right into the hole. I make the a 90 degree bend and about a 1/2" long.

Works really very well. It is .047 wire if I recall, so it is easy to bend. Truthfully the tail is only on the ground for a fraction of a second and I don't really know that it needs more than a skid or fixed wheel.

6-7ft rolls on the ground! That is with this propped at 7.3 amps. So It is not overpowered by any means. A GWS 300 brushed motor and gearbox would fly this model well!

They even had the kit on sale for $19 bucks today!

Mike
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Old 11-26-2005, 05:44 AM
  #58  
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Yeah I saw that sale price. Rats I got mine a couple of months ago. Got the Nippy Black they recommend so it should fly well I think. Got all winter to get it done. Hoew did you exit the pushrods? They ssow a Z bend on the plan and this would require slots I think. I got a set of DuBro .032 pushrods with the tubes. I hope I can make it work. This is my 1st build actually so I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Gene
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Old 11-26-2005, 06:53 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Deereret View Post
Hoew did you exit the pushrods? They ssow a Z bend on the plan and this would require slots I think. I got a set of DuBro .032 pushrods with the tubes. I hope I can make it work. This is my 1st build actually so I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Gene
Those pushrods will work great!

I just use a small piece of clear tape and then cut a slit in the covering for the wires to exit. The tape assures the covering does not tear or shread near the exits. It works very well.

Mike
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:48 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Deereret View Post
I got a set of DuBro .032 pushrods with the tubes. I hope I can make it work. This is my 1st build actually so I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Gene
Gene,

Just a consideration for you regarding those pushrods. I installed the same type in my mini telemaster, but I had problems with them at first leaving too much slop in the control actuation(I forgot to anchor them in the middle and had to strip the covering to add a brace). They are very flexible, like cable, so make sure the sleeves are supported at each end and no more than 6" unsupported in between. My pushrod braces were very simple-just a 3/32"x1/4" wide strip with holes for the pushrods spanning the fuselage uprights. Happy building!
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:03 AM
  #61  
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Thanks for the tip. I was wondering abour that very thing. I will install the pushrods before covering and then remove them for covering.Think I will leave the servos in though. Did you exit yours thru the filled in section on each side at the tail?
Gene
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Old 11-30-2005, 03:07 PM
  #62  
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Did you exit yours thru the filled in section on each side at the tail?
Gene
Mine just exit through the covering, no balsa inserts were used. I use tape to keep the covering from tearing.

Mike
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:35 PM
  #63  
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Geez another question. Can I use DuBro hinge tape for the rudder and elevator? No ailerons.
Gene
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:48 PM
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You bet you can. I just use regular clear tape too! It works just fine.

Mike
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:24 PM
  #65  
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I found this forum this morning from RCU and straight to this thread. I enjoyed reading about these mods, as I have built two now. I enlarged the rudder on the second, but it still lacks the control authority I would like. Otherwise, I love these things for quick and easy flights in small fields. I think I will follow the lead and convert to an aileron setup on my planes...

I built the blue one first to fly while visiting my brother in LA. I'm back heading there the end of next week! It is pretty much stock except for the steerable tailwheel...

I built the orange one for home since I liked the first one so much, but only see it for a couple of weeks a year. Besides the tailwheel, I enlarged the rudder and cradled the battery to the wing center section for easy access...

(Ah, not sure if I did the picture thing right on this...)
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Old 12-04-2005, 03:26 AM
  #66  
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leparks, welcome aboard wattflyer! Two nice Telemasters you've got there, and I love the plane cradle! Yet another use for antlers .
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Old 12-04-2005, 08:33 PM
  #67  
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Yep you need the ailerons! They turns it very very well. leparks - your planes look great!

Rudder only ships all lack the authority I like, especially with wind.

Mike
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Old 12-25-2005, 02:49 AM
  #68  
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Hi Hoppy,
This a trial run to see if I am doing it right.
Skyvolt
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:19 PM
  #69  
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I'm building my second Mini-Telemaster and my second RC plane. I got many good hours flying my first one but, alas it lost control for some unexplained reason and hit a backstop at full speed.

Did you modify the angle of RS1, RS2 and RS3 to match the new reduced angle to match the dihedral brace? Or would it be possible to "shim" the gap between center ribs? (This relates to post #17on this page.) My email address is [email protected].
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:26 PM
  #70  
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Did you modify the angle of RS1, RS2 and RS3
Yes I did - good luck with the build!

Snap some pics along the way.

Mike
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:50 AM
  #71  
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Default Finally got mine done

Here are some pics. My first build.
Gene
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Old 04-30-2006, 03:37 AM
  #72  
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Nice job, Gene! I'm sure it'll fly just as good as it looks.
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Old 12-06-2006, 08:10 PM
  #73  
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Mike, Nice job with your mini-t. I have just started building one and your thread is so much help,thanks. Iam going to power mine just the same as yours, I think. Looks like a very good combo and its already tried, easy to follow your lead. Maybe you can give me some ideas on battery. I thinking of ni-cads over lipo ( easy to care and use maybe ?) is this a mistake ? I respect your opinion. Thanks again for helping by posting such a wonderful thread
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Old 12-06-2006, 09:48 PM
  #74  
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texas - thanks!

I have to be honest with you all batteries store significant energy. The ONLY fire I have had was with NiCads! So they all need respect.

LiPoly's certainly do demant that respect also but I still use them because they have the best energy density per weight. In other words they are light and store lots of power for that motor to use.

If I were building this plane today from scratch I would use a different power system. The Skatty xt400 motor from Hobby Lobby http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-skatty.htm is cheap and quite powerful. On sale you can get it for $15-20! And I would use a small 1200-1500 mAh 3s Lipoly battery. That keeps it light and it flies wonderfully!

Just my $0.02!

Mike
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Old 12-06-2006, 11:38 PM
  #75  
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I might just try that Mike, I'm a little bit worried about the weight though. I reserched through the threads and saw your ace 400, neat! Looks like mini-T's weight will be at the top of available limit. I really just don't want a underpowered plane. But I know you would not suggest it if that was the case. I really liked your comment about your mini-t going vertical till you stopped it. I like slow real flight but want available power too. give me more $0.02. Thanks a lot Mike .
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