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Anderson Power Poles

Old 10-18-2008, 03:46 PM
  #26  
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I used to use PowerPoles for almost everything but I save them for over about 20-25A now with 2mm gold connectors below that. But I'm not going to try to talk anyone out of their own choice....so long as they're not using those awful Tamiya things that were fitted as standard to far too many things .

Steve
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Old 10-18-2008, 04:54 PM
  #27  
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I use Tamiya plugs on my 33% electrified Extra.

Just kidding. I agree with you about the crappy Tamiya plugs
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
I use Tamiya plugs on my 33% electrified Extra.

Just kidding. I agree with you about the crappy Tamiya plugs
Yeah I hear this guy was using Tamiyas... What a shame.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0T52xLN9luk[/media]
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:15 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
Yeah I hear this guy was using Tamiyas... What a shame.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0T52xLN9luk[/media]
No, he was actually using Spektrum and had one of their infamous lock outs right at touchdown.
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:25 PM
  #30  
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Ok back on topic. Power Poles
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Old 10-18-2008, 05:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
Ok back on topic. Power Poles
Spoil Sport!

I'm curious what the smallest setup someone would use APP on......
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Old 10-18-2008, 06:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by gfdengine204 View Post
Spoil Sport!

I'm curious what the smallest setup someone would use APP on......
Yeah I think that gets to the heart of it... As I don't currently fly anything over 3S, the issue of wire gauges that might necessitate a beefier termination hasn't come up.
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Old 10-18-2008, 08:51 PM
  #33  
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Unless I am building an indoor foamie where I use mini-deans, I use APP.

I have them in my mini ultra stick, and even made up parallel harness in my e-flite 25 size cub. (2 3s2100 wired in parallel to make a 4200 pack) I find the key is to use flexible wire so they can be tucked in easily.
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Old 10-18-2008, 08:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by darylm44 View Post
Unless I am building an indoor foamie where I use mini-deans, I use APP.

I have them in my mini ultra stick, and even made up parallel harness in my e-flite 25 size cub. (2 3s2100 wired in parallel to make a 4200 pack) I find the key is to use flexible wire so they can be tucked in easily.
The reason I use APP is not for wire size, it has to do with finger size and difficulty getting Deans apart in small places.
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Old 10-20-2008, 10:33 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
Too expensive. I got this one.. Exact same thing, better price.

http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp...324&CtgID=1679
I use the 45 amp PP's almost exclusively now on setups that pull up to about 75 amps.

I also own that exact crimper and it works very well on the 45's as long as your using wire smaller than 12 ga.

With 12ga wire, the insert will sometimes get stuck in the top channel in the crimper jaw. With 10 ga and larger it gets stuck every time.

Then when you open the tool, it bends the insert and damages or breaks it.

The secret is to lightly lube the top channel in the crimper jaw before you crimp using large gauge wire. I use a little dab of grease or oil on a Qtip and swab it lightly. I have to re-lube every few crimps when using large wire.

You want to be carefull not to get grease or oil into the crimp joint so dont use tooooo much.

I hate Deans
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Old 10-25-2008, 01:59 AM
  #36  
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I just got my crimpr in the mail. I was hesitant to spend $50 on the recommended crimper, but boy am I glad I did.

To give you some background I tried to use the cheaper $13 crimper to crimper 10 and 8 gauge wire to a 45A terminal. Each attempt ended in disappointment.

I placed an order for the nice crimper, then went outside and tested the new crimper out. I started with 12Gauge wire and it was a breeze. Then I did some 10Gauge wire, no poblems. Then I tried the 8 gauge wire. While it was harder to press the crimper down, it did the job. A nice perfect crimp each time. The only problem with the 8Guage wire is the insulation around the wire. You have to ensure you cut off enough of it so it does not get stuck when you insert the terminal into the casing.

A+ in my opinion. Soldering 8Gauge wire would suck, this made it simple to create connectors.
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:29 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
I just got my crimpr in the mail. I was hesitant to spend $50 on the recommended crimper, but boy am I glad I did.
Always remember, you get what you pay for.
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Old 10-25-2008, 02:31 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Rabbitcreekok View Post
Always remember, you get what you pay for.
True, to a point...

I wil not buy Thunder power lipos anymore.. I can find other brands that use Enerland cells for cheaper..

But I agree with you and the crimper. The $50 crimper put the $13 one to shame.
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Old 10-25-2008, 03:03 AM
  #39  
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Due noted. Thanks for the review on the crimper. I'll remember to recommend it to others.

Glad it's working out for you.

Frank
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:26 AM
  #40  
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Are you getting your contacts from powerwerx?
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:30 AM
  #41  
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Yes, we both got our contacts from Powerwerx as well as the crimper.
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:40 AM
  #42  
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I got a crimper from West Mountain some time ago, need to replinish my supply of contacts. Do you ever have any trouble with small wire on low amp ESCs?
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:01 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RadioActive View Post
I got a crimper from West Mountain some time ago, need to replinish my supply of contacts. Do you ever have any trouble with small wire on low amp ESCs?
You can use the 15 amp or the 30 amp for the smaller wire. Just order some of each size. The 45 amp connectors are for large wires. The 30 amp connectors will carry most any load.

The housings fit all three sizes.
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Old 10-25-2008, 12:06 PM
  #44  
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If you need to attach wires smaller than 14 AWG to a 30A contact, you should strip a longer length, fold the bare conductor in a "Z-fold" fashion and insert the multiple folds of the wire into the contact barrel.

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Old 10-25-2008, 08:43 PM
  #45  
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I had been using the $13 dollar crimper with descent results, but today I used Liquidity's West Mountain Radio Crimper to crimp on the 45A contacts. I must say that I am hooked. This crimper makes perfect, professional crimps everytime and is very similar to the ones I used in the aerospace industry.
The crimper's dies have have a positioner built into them to hold the contact in the correct position. Just insert the contact, crimp down enough to hold the contact in place, insert wire and crimp all the way down. EASY! A perfect, uniform crimp that will fit into the housing. Now just insert into the housing and you are done.
I'm ordering one!
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:11 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by crosborne View Post
I had been using the $13 dollar crimper with descent results, but today I used Liquidity's West Mountain Radio Crimper to crimp on the 45A contacts. I must say that I am hooked. This crimper makes perfect, professional crimps everytime and is very similar to the ones I used in the aerospace industry.
The crimper's dies have have a positioner built into them to hold the contact in the correct position. Just insert the contact, crimp down enough to hold the contact in place, insert wire and crimp all the way down. EASY! A perfect, uniform crimp that will fit into the housing. Now just insert into the housing and you are done.
I'm ordering one!
I bought some power poles just to see what all this kerfuffle is about, but I am thinking I already have a compatible crimper made by Paladin Tools, but I need to find the right die. Do you happen to recall what the die face says on the crimper you were using? part number or the like?

TIA!
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Old 10-25-2008, 10:56 PM
  #47  
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The die on my looks pretty standard. The difference would be the added piece to hold the contact in place. The width of the climps vary from 1/8" for 30A to 3/16" for 45A, the depth is 3/8".
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Old 11-01-2008, 04:28 PM
  #48  
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There aren't any numbers on the dies other than the 15, 30 and 45 for the different size contacts.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:03 PM
  #49  
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Default Fastons.

I changed to them as they come in several sizes and crimp very well with anything. They are color coded. Have complete Nylon anti-shorting hoods on male & females. Dirt cheap @ H D or Lowes. They are the ones used in all appliances for many years.
I put a WIDE black marker all over the - ones while connected.
I put 1 thin black stripe for the positive pair while connected. ......Too cheap to buy a red marker.

I use the Anderson on over 40 amps. Little stuff 30 & under. Fastons.
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Old 01-17-2009, 03:15 AM
  #50  
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These look like the same stuff they sell at Advanced Auto Parts for fixing car wiring and speakers. I wouldn't use them. Its like using twist on Wire nuts for your motor. Yes, Iv'e actually seen this done.
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