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Build Thread- WACO SRE From Manzano

Old 12-29-2008, 05:59 AM
  #51  
Sky Sharkster
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Default Elevator Finished

Here's the completed elevator, before starting I pulled a small section of the cling wrap up between the stabilizer and elevator so they wouldn't be glued together. Hope the photos show this. Next I'll remove the assemblies from the board and install the "U" shaped wire that connects the elevator halves.
Ron
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Old 12-29-2008, 06:41 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
Glad to hear you've got the building bug, it's great fun, relaxing in a strange way and very rewarding.
What are you building?
I completely understand what you mean about building being relaxing. Even when it's vexing (which for me is more or less daily) I still lose myself in the minutia and can almost feel my blood pressure going down.

On the board at the moment is a nearly complete MM EVA Sport that will soon be covered in Rit-dyed silkspan and WBPU over mylar. Next up, my six-year-old son and I will tackle a Hobby Lobby Miss Stick Sr.. Beyond that, I just received a Pat Tritle 53" J3 Cub short kit (destined to be a classic Alaska bush Cub with Trexlers, etc.) and I recently picked up a Fokker DVII kit from Aerodrome and an old Super Chipmunk kit from a guy online. I've also got plans from the late 1990's for a 60" Waco CG-4A glider (with powered option) and I've been noodling on scratch building a Miles Aerovan. That's just what's front of mind...and I know I'm not alone with this backlog!

The plane that's always in my car is a heavily modified Hobby Zone Super Cub. Currently taking off my homemade skis (snow flying is FUN!) and cutting ailerons into a new wing which I hope to attached with nylon bolts so I can ditch the rubber bands. I've detailed some of my past work (and my first Mountain Models build) in my blog over at RCGroups.

rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=197445

I'm digging the electric only vibe here, so thanks for being my first Watt Flyer friend!

Matt
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Old 12-29-2008, 02:16 PM
  #53  
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Default Stack 'o Kits?

Wow, you've got a bunch of projects, Matt!
The Eva Sport is a good-flying plane, I've seen a couple here in Colorado.
The Miss Stick seems to be popular, there's build threads on this Forum and "Old Timers" Forum, I believe. I've built several O/T's, most recently a 5/8 scale (33" wingspan) Playboy Pylon. I also have a new Goldberg "Sailplane" kit (33" wingspan also, it's a scaled-down version) from Penn Central Hobbies. They carry lots of O/T's, all "Stick" construction, like the originals.
And a stack of other kits awaiting attention.
About the only types I buy as ARFs are gliders, the composite construction on some is unbelievable. It would be nearly impossible to duplicate without major shop facilities and time.
And the occasionial GWS Warbird.
How does the dyed silkspan work out? Is the color evenly distributed?
A great builder here is Paul (pd1), his builds are fantastic. Makes mine look like they were done with a rock and chain saw!
Happy New Year!
Ron
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:55 PM
  #54  
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Default Horizontal Stabilizer

After removing the stabilizer + elevator from the board, I shaped the outside, sanded them flat and rounded the leading edges. The leading edge of the elevator is more of a bevel, a slightly rounded 45 degree edge. I also tapered the trailing edge of the elevator, not too thin.
Then I fine-sanded all with #400 wet-or-dry.
Ron
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:49 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
How does the dyed silkspan work out? Is the color evenly distributed?
Ron
I've attached a couple of photos of the EVA. Vert stab and rudder are nearly complete (may add another layer of silkspan to up the opacity) and you can see the mylar on the horizontals awaiting silkspan. I just follow the Rit dye box instructions, and you can leave the silkspan in as long as you want to adjust darkness, knowning that it will dry somewhat lighter than when wet. I wanted to see the open structure in the EVA tail feathers, so opted for lighter knowing I might end up doubling the layers later as needed. There's an odd shadow from the Xmas tree across the photos, but I think they tell the story. In a word, silkspan takes dye beautifully.

On sheeted surfaces, I leave off the mylar and let the WBPU soak into the balsa and really lock down the silkspan.

Here's a link to our club president's Fokker DVII (Aerodrome) that is covered with Rit dyed silkspan.

[media]http://www.aerodromerc.com/WWI/FokkerDVII_36/FokkerDVII_36_images/GRichie/GRichie_award_600.jpg[/media]Matt
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:29 AM
  #56  
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Default Nice Covering Job!

Wow, great job on that covering, Matt! Looks like you've done this before.
The EVA is coming along very well. Let us know how it looks when done. Thanks for the photos!
Ron
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:40 AM
  #57  
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Default Elevator Connector Wire

Here's photos of my elevator "U" wire that strengthens the connection of the two halves;
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:51 AM
  #58  
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Will the wire protrude into the hinge gap, or is it recessed enough into the forward edge of the elevator to be out of the way? I can't quite tell from the photo. In any event, this is an elegant way to invisibly reinforce an otherwise fragile area.

Too bad I already covered the EVA elevator, or I would have done this for sure. As it is, it's a bit on the "twisty" side.

-Matt
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Old 12-31-2008, 12:29 PM
  #59  
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Default Wire Joiner, Hinge-Slotting

Hi Matt,
It's nearly flush, I also pushed it in a bit farther into a shallow groove before gluing. The wire and reinforcements are as shown on the plans, it's also the location of the control horn.
Here's my method for hinge-slotting. Can't recall where I got the blue hinges, but they're the regular "CA" type, same as the white ones. After trying nearly every tool and gadget available, I settled on the "Eyeball, #11 blade and patience" system; After installation, I leave them unglued until ready to cover the surface. Then I glue them (with CA) from the inside, no glue on the hinge line.
Ron
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:46 PM
  #60  
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Default Hinge-Slotting

Ron!
I guess then, you have tried the Slot Machine, & the adjustable template? If so, what is your critique of it's qualities? (good&bad)

Jimmy
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:16 AM
  #61  
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Default Hinging Methods

Hi Jimmy,
Yes, I tried a "Slot Machine" several years ago, it was OK but had a few flaws. It wouldn't cut into corners, like when a slot needs to be near a wingtip or aileron rib-the short rib next to a long rib. As my models got smaller, I had trouble with it slipping off (out the side) of 3/32" and even 1/8" thick trailing edge stock, I believe it's more suitable for thicker wood. It should come with an alignment jig (they have one available but it's optional) since it's difficult to align by hand.
The "Slotting Sets" are basically forks and thin gouges for removing the material and most are available as much better quality cutting blades. Excel + X-Acto have sharper and thinner blades in their wood-working assortments, you just supply a handle. I could never get the plastic parallegram device (for centering the slots) to work right, it tilts and wanders. It seems like a good idea poorly executed.
With a set of # 10, #17, #23, #28 Blades from here;
http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/sxh.htm you can do a much finer job, have blades that cut cleaner and last longer.
I also have the curved (concave) carving blades for general carving. For about $20.00 you can cut any shape and slot.
But everyone's different, I've known modelers who swear by their slot machines or slotting tools!
Ron
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:16 AM
  #62  
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Thanks Ron!!
I really enjoy this thread!! Who said you couldn't teach an old dog new tricks!!!!!

Jimmy
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Old 01-01-2009, 07:35 AM
  #63  
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What a nice build thread Ron. You always do such nice work and all the photos really set it apart. Can't wait to see this finished.
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:46 PM
  #64  
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Default Rudder + Fin, Gussetts + Glue

Hi Jimmy + Tom!
Thanks for the kind words, I'm enjoying this build. Hope I finish it by Spring.
No work today (Happy New Year!!!) so I should get some building done between the football games.
Here's the rudder + fin, first the outline, then ribs, gussetts. A close-up of the bevel cuts, I use a magnifying glass for these.
Last, glue everything, one drop of CA with an applicator tip for each joint.
Since the outline is a little fragile, I may frame it with basswood like I did with the wingtips.
Ron
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:45 PM
  #65  
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For a guy(me) recently getting into balsa building this thread has been a gold mine!!
Ron, will you be as detailed on the covering as you have everything else?
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:41 PM
  #66  
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Default Finishing Rudder, Fin

Hello Pburt,
Thanks! glad it's useful. I did plan to detail the covering, since the Litespan isn't a very common material. It uses a separate adhesive, a couple of different techniques. If you're planning on using MicroLite/SoLite, here's my thread on covering the Corben Super Ace, starting with post # 61.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=33844&page=3

Next I made the small fairing piece that goes in front of the fin. The small inner arc shape is done with another "Found" sanding block, my coffee cup!
Then I sanded both sides flat by rubbing across a full-size piece of # 220 garnet paper. Quick + easy.
Last, I glued basswood to the outline of the rudder, to strengthen it.
Ron
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:19 PM
  #67  
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Default Rudder. Final Sanding

Here's the final sanding of the rudder, I used # 220, then # 400, last #600 wet-or-dry. The trailing edge isn't really tapered, just rounded a little more vigoriously than usual.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:33 PM
  #68  
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Default Stuck Together?

Once again I couldn't resist sticking everything (so far) together;
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:30 AM
  #69  
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Default Landing Gear

Borrowing (Stealing, really!) from Tim Hooper, I fixed the two main L.G. to a sheet of 3/32" "Lite" ply that was roughly the size and shape of the forward fuselage bottom. I used Goldberg 3/32" landing gear mounts for this. They were slightly too large (diameter) for the main wire, so I sanded the flat part down until they held the wire without moving. They were also WAY too big for the thinner rear wire, this I fixed by slipping on some thin heat-shrink tube to increase the diameter.
Then, after adjusting the sweep and angle, I tied the two wires together with copper wire and silver-soldered the joints. Seems pretty sturdy, but the first hard landing will tell the full story!
Last, I taped the mount to the bottom of the fuselage and put the wheels on. Just have to stick stuff together!
Ron
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Old 01-03-2009, 02:53 PM
  #70  
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Default Landing Gear Pt II

After checking the plan side view, I realized the landing gear ply plate would have to be inset slightly, then covered with a rounded fairing, similar to the side pieces I made earlier.
So I cut the ply mount into 2 pieces and began fitting the front piece to size. This required removing the bottom cross-piece of bulkhead F-2. Then I used kit scrap wood to make a replacement cross-piece out of 1/8" hard balsa.
Also, some weights, so far;
Fuselage, Landing Gear, Ply Mounts, screws, etc; 3.6 ounces, 102 grams.
Stabilizer, elevator, fin, rudder; 0.5 ounces, 14 grams.
All 4 wing panels (no servos,yet), Struts; 2.1 ounces, 60 grams.
Cowl; 0,7 ounces, 17 grams.
Total-----------------------
6.9 ounces, 196 grams.
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:36 PM
  #71  
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A flying buddy of mine built one of these several months ago. It is indeed a great flyer, although he has had some issues with adverse yaw. He's programmed in some aileron differential, but due to our weather, he hasn't had a chance to test whether that will help. He is an excellent modeler and craftsman, so I don't think it is issues with the build.

One thing he did, which works very well for him, was to turn the entire center top wing/cabin section into his battery hatch. He even made up an "antenna" to use as a handle. I know he also beefed up the top wing mounting method, which he thought was a little weak. Unfortunately, I don't remember what he told me he did.

Great build thread, btw! I'm enjoying it a lot.

Mark
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Old 01-03-2009, 03:50 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by buzzltyr View Post
A flying buddy of mine built one of these several months ago. It is indeed a great flyer, although he has had some issues with adverse yaw. He's programmed in some aileron differential, but due to our weather, he hasn't had a chance to test whether that will help. He is an excellent modeler and craftsman, so I don't think it is issues with the build.

One thing he did, which works very well for him, was to turn the entire center top wing/cabin section into his battery hatch.
I wonder if mounting the battery relatively high on the aircraft could be contributing to the observed yaw problem as the weight tries to roll laterally over the longitudinal axis?
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:36 PM
  #73  
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Default Adverse Yaw, Battery Hatch

Hello Mark,
Thanks for the info, I'm interested in the top wing reinforcement. There haven't been any problems I've heard of but it did seem like a likely place for a bit of strengthening. I've never fully trusted a flush or butt joint for wings. The top wing does have a spruce spar that carries through and is glued to a dihedral brace that's fixed into the fuselage top.
Do you happen to know whether your friend used the enlarged ailerons?
The top center is open, except for the dihedral brace/spar and seems like it would work as a hatch. I had already planned to put mine behind the rear landing gear mount.
But also, as Matt mentioned, I'm reluctant to add weight above the centerline. It may not be a proven aerodynamic fact, but my observation has been that it reduces stability somewhat. Particularly a large mass like a battery pack.
The adverse yaw could also be because the model has very little dihedral (top wing only) and a relatively short wingspan.
Thanks for the interest, hope you enjoy the build thread!
Ron
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Old 01-04-2009, 01:33 AM
  #74  
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Hi Ron, Looks good as always.
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:01 AM
  #75  
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Default Front L.G. mount Installed

Hi Paul, Thanks!
This is a fun build, a bit time-consuming but enjoyable.
And I'm having a great time imagining the color schemes! I'm sold on red + Black, and the trim "ring" around the cowl + wheel pants.
Here's the next step in the L.G. mount, I glued the balsa support piece in place and put large gussetts above it, tying it to the vertical bulkhead section. Used 1/4" soft balsa for those, lots of surface area.
Then I spread Titebond over the support piece and clamped the gear mount in place. While this dries overnight, I'm going to finish-sand the wings + tail, prepping for the covering.
Here's the motor I'm considering, after paying Holiday bills, that is!
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...83664c355f90d0
And the prop data;
http://innov8tivedesigns.com/Scorpio...22%20Specs.htm
Plenty of power on 3s LiPos!
Ron
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