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Doors

Old 12-31-2010, 08:42 AM
  #1  
FlyWheel
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Default Doors

I've heard a number of y'all recommend them as building surfaces, which is great AFAIK, because I have three sitting in my garage just waiting to either be put to use or thrown out. And I don't like to throw out perfectly good things. They are all the plain, flat kind with no panels (just an fine "woodgrain" texture).

That is, if they really are flat. And so my question: How do you tell if they really are the 2-dimention flat required to glue together an easy flying aircraft? What methods do you employ? Short of asking the local machine shop if you can borrow their CMM for an afternoon, that is!
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:15 PM
  #2  
Grasshopper
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You could stretch a string from one corner to the other corner diagonally. Then do the same across the other two diagonal corners to make an X. If it's warped, at least one of the strings will not lay flat on the door. Do it on the other side as well in case it is warped and you're on the crowned side of the door. Another way is to do the same with a long piece of steel or angle iron that you know is straight but the string is probably easier.

Once you've determined it is flat, get a couple of the 2' x 4' accoustic ceiling tiles from Lowes or Home Depot and lay them on the board with the smooth side up. It makes a great board to pin your parts to if you're building from a kit or scratch.
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Old 12-31-2010, 03:22 PM
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Default Doors!

Mr. Flywheel!

I am known as being picky, & I think I could be satisfied by just eyeballing
the door!

However you could use the little wood blocks & string brick masons use to keep a course level. Pull end to end tight or crosswise and measure depth with a scale from string to door. Or a simple laser & scale could be set up to measure any variance.

Eyeballs are hard to beat!

Regards!
Jimmy
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Old 01-01-2011, 06:35 AM
  #4  
tobydogs
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i to plan to use a door to get a nice even surface to build on. lowes sell extra long straight edges for 10 bucks ,it's a 72" length and by sliding it around the door thats laying flat you'll see any gaps. for me i use a sheet of dence cork board thats glued to masonite and can use sheets of paper under it to fine tune a flat suface.

right now my table has a bow in the center and that would screw any build.....i don't have any doors laying around but will go to lowes or homedepot to pick a blemish door for cheap[$10]. a 36x72 will make a great table top.
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Old 01-01-2011, 09:01 AM
  #5  
CHELLIE
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Doors make great build tables here is my door table in my hobby room, the 2x4s are screwed into the Wall studs, only needed about 6 screws, the frame is screwed together with deck screws, the whole thing comes apart in about 5 mins or less if i dont want it there anymore















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Old 01-01-2011, 03:20 PM
  #6  
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chellie...........thats way to complex for any of us to build!!!!!!![a loud lol...].....i think what with finnishing my kitchen this up coming week an added door to this material list is in order,just can't tax wright off it to home improvement...lol....unless our uncle sam is a rc builder to.come to thinkof it,
uncle sam is the #1rc builder around...lol



"Up to eight US drones fired some 18 missiles at multiple militant targets in Dattakhel village," a senior security official told
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:05 PM
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Hi Chellie

What's up with the carpeted workroom?? Mine is also but it's a short loop commercial that was there when we bought the house. It's full of solder splats, epoxy drips, CA, dope, etc.


Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Doors make great build tables here is my door table in my hobby room, the 2x4s are screwed into the Wall studs, only needed about 6 screws, the frame is screwed together with deck screws, the whole thing comes apart in about 5 mins or less if i dont want it there anymore
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Old 01-01-2011, 07:34 PM
  #8  
CHELLIE
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Originally Posted by stuart View Post
chellie...........thats way to complex for any of us to build!!!!!!![a loud lol...].....i think what with finnishing my kitchen this up coming week an added door to this material list is in order,just can't tax wright off it to home improvement...lol....unless our uncle sam is a rc builder to.come to thinkof it,
uncle sam is the #1rc builder around...lol



"Up to eight US drones fired some 18 missiles at multiple militant targets in Dattakhel village," a senior security official told
Nawww it was east to make the only hard part was trying to find the studs in the wall to support the wood


Originally Posted by av8djc View Post
Hi Chellie

What's up with the carpeted workroom?? Mine is also but it's a short loop commercial that was there when we bought the house. It's full of solder splats, epoxy drips, CA, dope, etc.
My Den is my hobby room, so its nice and warm in the winter and cool in the summer
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:54 AM
  #9  
FlyWheel
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Default Thanks guys (and Chellie)

I like the crossed string method, partly because I don't have a long enough steel rule (longest I have is only one meter). Actually, that thought crossed my mind minutes after I posted the question, but I let it stand as I didn't know how persnikity it had to be.

As for the acoustic tile, I already have a 20" x 30" cork bulletin board; I can check the flatness of that with my meter stick. Basically it is a thin layer of cork over pressed paper backing, it should be large enough for any part of at least my first build.

I'm going to pick up a new heater for my workshop tommorow, the "Magic Blue Smoke" managed to escape my last one when I turned it on the other day. Then hopefully I can start making dust. I think I'll start with the Miss.
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Old 01-04-2011, 04:44 PM
  #10  
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I'll second the door as the way to go. Though I don't have one - won't fit - in the new Balsa Dust Factory, I suspect a way will be found.

My usual route is to figure out what width I can stand, head to Home Despot, Lowes, whatever, go to the doors area and see if they've any indoor flush doors that have failed 'QC', gotten slightly dented or whatever. That way they're cheap and usually good enough. Have never had one go out of true, flat or whatever.

My real treat is a pair of Guillows balsa building boards. Had one three footer and a four footer for years, still flat. Fitted them for hinges, so can prop one up at whatever dihedral angle and build a dihedralled wing in one piece from the middle out.

Hope that helps

Dereck
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:03 PM
  #11  
riverrat
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Default Hinged Building Board

[QUOTE=Dereck;775594]
My real treat is a pair of Guillows balsa building boards. Had one three footer and a four footer for years, still flat. Fitted them for hinges, so can prop one up at whatever dihedral angle and build a dihedralled wing in one piece from the middle out.

Dereck!

Mannn! That hinged board idea is the best ever! Perfect wings Poly or Dihedral! And they are stronger built in one piece! Got the idea for my boards from Mitja Sersen of Slovinia (Guppy Designer)! THEY WORK GREAT!!

Regards!
Jimmy
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:38 PM
  #12  
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Hi Jimmy
Love your dihedral angle 'jigs'! Beats the heck out of mine (though mine have been more readable afterwards than yours on occasions )

What's the tiling on the surface of your boards? You set me thinking...

It doesn't take a lot to design a wing, or alter a kit, to build it from the the centre joint outwards. Sure beats building two halves, then hacking into them to 'fit' the dihedral brace. Don't know about you, but being able to put the dihedral brace between the inner faces of the mainspars makes me feel real good about the centre joint strength.

Regards
Dereck
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:04 PM
  #13  
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Default Cork

Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
Hi Jimmy
Love your dihedral angle 'jigs'! Beats the heck out of mine (though mine have been more readable afterwards than yours on occasions )

What's the tiling on the surface of your boards? You set me thinking...

It doesn't take a lot to design a wing, or alter a kit, to build it from the the centre joint outwards. Sure beats building two halves, then hacking into them to 'fit' the dihedral brace. Don't know about you, but being able to put the dihedral brace between the inner faces of the mainspars makes me feel real good about the centre joint strength.

Regards
Dereck
Dereck!

Thats 1/4 in. cork glued down with old fashsion cork gasket shellac!
Cork from Home Depot, & shellac from Auto Parts Store!

Been on the lookout for a softer straight 1X12 to make another. Push pins hold good in this board, but takes a hefty push to seat them!

I don't even cut the main spars @ the Poly break. Just slightly notch & wet them & they adhere to the angle great. It has got to be stronger, & it sure looks neater. Last Poly wings I built on this board with 5MM washout were perfect. Laid tip to tip they were exact! The aileron plan plan you see on the board was built with the top spar exactly straight. And the bottom spar angled up to meet the smaller ribs!!

Regards!
Jimmy
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