Correct motor setup
08-15-2022, 07:40 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Odense Denmark
Posts: 152
Correct motor setup
Hi when i connect he Turnigy and the little motor from Eflite to this esc the esc get’s pretty hot. Think the turnigy requires an 40 amp esc but the one from Horizon/Eflite comes from a 30 amp pro also from Eflite. Thoughts? Do i need anther 30 amp esc and have this one i mind for 40amp: https://www.motionrc.eu/products/fre...=8121359204401
Or should i go for a 2S setup for the 1000KV motor?
Or should i go for a 2S setup for the 1000KV motor?
02-14-2023, 08:36 PM
#2
Super Contributor
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cheshire, UK
Posts: 2,118
jangodog
What you really need is a Wattmeter!
https://campaign.aliexpress.com/wow/..._id=1084300508
Connect between the battery and ESC it will tell you how many amps and Watts is actually being drawn. You can then make realistic decisions on what you actually need!
As it gives a real time reading as well as the peak It will enable you to stop before you "cook" an ESC or even possibly a motor. Preventing just one such incident and the Wattmeter has paid for itself!
What you really need is a Wattmeter!
https://campaign.aliexpress.com/wow/..._id=1084300508
Connect between the battery and ESC it will tell you how many amps and Watts is actually being drawn. You can then make realistic decisions on what you actually need!
As it gives a real time reading as well as the peak It will enable you to stop before you "cook" an ESC or even possibly a motor. Preventing just one such incident and the Wattmeter has paid for itself!
02-14-2023, 09:39 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Odense Denmark
Posts: 152
Originally Posted by quorneng
jangodog
What you really need is a Wattmeter!
https://campaign.aliexpress.com/wow/..._id=1084300508
Connect between the battery and ESC it will tell you how many amps and Watts is actually being drawn. You can then make realistic decisions on what you actually need!
As it gives a real time reading as well as the peak It will enable you to stop before you "cook" an ESC or even possibly a motor. Preventing just one such incident and the Wattmeter has paid for itself!
What you really need is a Wattmeter!
https://campaign.aliexpress.com/wow/..._id=1084300508
Connect between the battery and ESC it will tell you how many amps and Watts is actually being drawn. You can then make realistic decisions on what you actually need!
As it gives a real time reading as well as the peak It will enable you to stop before you "cook" an ESC or even possibly a motor. Preventing just one such incident and the Wattmeter has paid for itself!
and will surely use for my next setup.
Thank’s though.
02-18-2023, 11:01 PM
#4
Past President of PSSF
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lacey WA, 1 mile E of Mushroom Corner
Posts: 2,274
I had a strange thing happen about 20 years ago.
I hooked up a small can-type motor, (I am thinking of motors that have an outer case that is all one piece formed in a press of some kind.)
I was using a Castle Creations 25 amp speed control, this motor only uses 8 amps from a 3s battery so I was well within the ratings of my ESC
The ESC got HOT at about 25% throttle, wattmeter reading 2 amps, But it would cool off at full throttle at 8 amps.
After playing around for 2 hours with that ESC on different motors pulling up to 20 amps, the ESC stayed cool. I got pissed and called CC on the phone, I got to talk with an engineer about this.
He called my little can motor a high-wind motor that was sending more voltage back to the ESC than it could handle at minimum throttle but at full throttle, it would be fine because less voltage came back. He advised me not to use that ESC on that motor, but some others could handle it fine.
ESC was great, I tossed the motor.
I hooked up a small can-type motor, (I am thinking of motors that have an outer case that is all one piece formed in a press of some kind.)
I was using a Castle Creations 25 amp speed control, this motor only uses 8 amps from a 3s battery so I was well within the ratings of my ESC
The ESC got HOT at about 25% throttle, wattmeter reading 2 amps, But it would cool off at full throttle at 8 amps.
After playing around for 2 hours with that ESC on different motors pulling up to 20 amps, the ESC stayed cool. I got pissed and called CC on the phone, I got to talk with an engineer about this.
He called my little can motor a high-wind motor that was sending more voltage back to the ESC than it could handle at minimum throttle but at full throttle, it would be fine because less voltage came back. He advised me not to use that ESC on that motor, but some others could handle it fine.
ESC was great, I tossed the motor.
03-28-2023, 06:20 PM
#7
Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 12,915
Originally Posted by Wildflyer
I had a strange thing happen about 20 years ago.
I hooked up a small can-type motor, (I am thinking of motors that have an outer case that is all one piece formed in a press of some kind.)
I was using a Castle Creations 25 amp speed control, this motor only uses 8 amps from a 3s battery so I was well within the ratings of my ESC
The ESC got HOT at about 25% throttle, wattmeter reading 2 amps, But it would cool off at full throttle at 8 amps.
After playing around for 2 hours with that ESC on different motors pulling up to 20 amps, the ESC stayed cool. I got pissed and called CC on the phone, I got to talk with an engineer about this.
He called my little can motor a high-wind motor that was sending more voltage back to the ESC than it could handle at minimum throttle but at full throttle, it would be fine because less voltage came back. He advised me not to use that ESC on that motor, but some others could handle it fine.
ESC was great, I tossed the motor.
I hooked up a small can-type motor, (I am thinking of motors that have an outer case that is all one piece formed in a press of some kind.)
I was using a Castle Creations 25 amp speed control, this motor only uses 8 amps from a 3s battery so I was well within the ratings of my ESC
The ESC got HOT at about 25% throttle, wattmeter reading 2 amps, But it would cool off at full throttle at 8 amps.
After playing around for 2 hours with that ESC on different motors pulling up to 20 amps, the ESC stayed cool. I got pissed and called CC on the phone, I got to talk with an engineer about this.
He called my little can motor a high-wind motor that was sending more voltage back to the ESC than it could handle at minimum throttle but at full throttle, it would be fine because less voltage came back. He advised me not to use that ESC on that motor, but some others could handle it fine.
ESC was great, I tossed the motor.
03-29-2023, 06:56 PM
#8
Past President of PSSF
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lacey WA, 1 mile E of Mushroom Corner
Posts: 2,274
The CC engineer emailed me 2 different programming software for the ESC. None of them had any effect on the heating problem. All of the things the engineer told me to try had any effect on it either.
He admitted that a different brand of ESC may handle it just fine, but at that time I was standardizing on CC 25amp ESCs We worked on this thing for 4 days, and he was very helpful in telling me a lot about how ESCs work.
The garbage can fixed everything.
He admitted that a different brand of ESC may handle it just fine, but at that time I was standardizing on CC 25amp ESCs We worked on this thing for 4 days, and he was very helpful in telling me a lot about how ESCs work.
The garbage can fixed everything.
