LewBish

I have just been building a new shed - with a nice tool space on one end and found most of my old SS..modified with a carbon fuse, thread braced tail - stiffened lading gear (x-braced with wire) and a brushless and lipo --- forgot how much fun a 3 channel could be-- Guess its time to resurect the old beast and do some more flying. Well - not until the rain lets up..

Flyer 1

You know, concerning thread bracing tails and stuff.
Does anyone have any experience with the super-thin "Beading wire"? I've got a spool that's thinner than 4 lb. fishing line, is completely flexible like ordinary thread, and is stronger than Hades.
I've tried a magnet on it, but there's only a slight attraction. That MIGHT be 'cause it's so danged thin (magnets have a tough time picking up fine piano wire, too).
If it's real stainless steel, it seems as if it would be the IDEAL rigging material.
Flyer

aviatordave

Well when you dont see me much on here that means I am busy

I have been designing a special camera mount specific to the SS. I'll call it a 'Floating Camera Mount' which will aid in eliminating motor vibration.

There will be a descriptive download as well as the 1:1 drawing if you want to make one for yourself.

I should have something ready by this weekend hopefully....I am still waiting on other stuff so I might as well be productive!

Dave

aviatordave

Here is the camera mount I have been working on. It rides on foam rubber and the only contact with the frame is 1/8" wide of plywood dowel. My goal was to create a mount that will allow picture taking with the motor on. Normally motor is off, but sometimes the motor needs to be on to hold a certain spot.

The plans can be found here (48 kb in pdf format):

Floating Camera Mount

Here are a couple pics before I paint it.

Dave

CHELLIE

Very Very interesting, I like that camera mount, its isolated in foam to cut out vibration, I know it will work well for you, thank you for sharing, Chellie

aviatordave

I used 1/8" plywood for all of the construction. During assembly I had to make a few changes, so I have the plans correct although you may notice the pictures differ in shape (trust the plans!)

You should be able to print the plans off and use the templates for cutout over the wood (1:1)

Below are some pictures that help define the assembly.

Click on each picture to read the notes.

Dave

aviatordave

ha ha..Chellie you always get in there between my posts! thanks for your thoughts...the real test will be to try it out - hopefully soon as mother nature lets me.

Dave

aviatordave

This is pretty easy....

Grab some paint stir sticks from Menards, Lowes, Home Depot.....
they are free and they dont care what you want to use them for.

Click on the pics below to see the construction notes...

Dave

aviatordave

All painted and installed. Good for forward/reverse shooting - my favorite

Next comes the electronics installation.....as soon as everything gets here...still waiting, patiently.

Dave

Crash9

WOW, Very cool camera mount Dave . You have thought this out very well. Love the anti-vib idea. Printing up your plans right now so I can make one also . Thanks for sharing, Scott

Flyer 1

Super-nice mount - one is definitely on my to-do list.
I'm building my SS kinda like Dave is, a dedicated AP bird. I've ALWAYS eyed those plastic outrunner mounts askance - not that I've had one fail, but I've just seen to danged many GWS motor mounts with gearbox come apart.
Finally found one I like:



My yellow SS will get here tomorrow, and I've been searching for the best possible components for it as I intend it to get a LOT of use.
Question - WHICH outrunner does everyone like MOST for their SS, intended for AP? Without the camera weight it's a no-brainer - just about anything will work.
However, I want this outrunner to be able to haul the 'Stick up FAST. I simply can't nail down which motor to use. What's everyone else's favorite choice, for AP use (SS only)?
Flyer

aviatordave

Crash - if you find a better way to do things, speak up.....more eyes and minds work better

Flyer - that is prob a whole lot better than the plastic GWS mount I have now. I might be able to make that at work...I'll take some measurements from the plastic one and see what damage I can do!

As for motor applications, well I am no expert. I went with the motor that had the most power with the smallest current draw. The motor I have on there now turns a 11 x 5.5 APCe @ 13 amps with 30 oz's of thrust. I'm going to use a 18amp esc with a 2200 3 cell 12C lipo. I think it will have vertical power from those numbers. I like alot of power for those oh *^$# times when the tree jumps out at ya.

I was hoping for some input from others in the motor/esc/batt dept. Maybe some will join in (hopefully)

Dave

quailbird

Dave, I've been watching your thread from the start. You do excellent work. That is a very good looking plane. Can't wait to see some videos and pictures from it.

Flyer 1

Finally - my yaller SS got here.
The stab and rudder areas seem VERY strong to me - laminated both top and bottom with the same material used for the wing. Since I haven't owned a SS since the tail feathers were only colored instead of covered, these seem 500% stronger.
I've decided I'm insane - I'm actually going to mount the Futaba S3154 digital servos in this 'Stick. I've been saving them for a fast parkflyer or aerobatic bird, but decided their extra strength and holding ability will prove a HUGE benefit when dealing with the wind.
I KNOW that my Merlin's servos have struggled to move it's surfaces at times, and that gusts have blown them straight for a second, making the servo work to bring 'em back to position. That's literally impossible with a digitial servo. After all, when you've got all that expensive stuff onboard it just seems wise to make SURE those surfaces are going to move, and STAY moved, when you want 'em to.
There goes another $70 into a plane that costs just over $30 - oh well, it's the thought that counts.
Flyer

Flyer 1

Well, I finally decided to go with a motor I haven't tried before, one of the Waypoint 2215/22s. Should give 30 or so ounces of thrust, maybe a little more.
I've heard good things about them so why not give one a whirl. Besides - they're right purty!
Flyer

aviatordave

I looked at that data sheet, looks good. What is the difference between an APC ep prop vs. a APC sf? And which prop are you going with?

I'm using what I thought was an APC e prop (?confused?)

Dave

Flyer 1

The SF (Slow Flyer) props are simply the wide-style thin electric models. The standard E props aren't as wide, i.e., look more like regular airplane propellers.
In other words, they're Slowflyer and E props at the same time! It DOES get confusing.
I believe I'm going to skip the Slowflyer version, but go instead with a standard 10 or 11x4.7 prop. Won't have as much pulling torque for takeoff, perhaps, but is significantly STIFFER than a Slowfly prop (you'cn bend them pretty easily, although nowhere near as easily as a GWS orange prop). That'll allow it to haul the weight of the plane and equipment around without bending/deforming in flight and losing performance.
The STANDARD APC props (not Slowflyer or E or "Thin E") are designed for gas/glow engines and are much thicker at the hub and the entire prop for that matter.
Flyer

Kosh

I love the "Thin E" and GWS HD "Hyper Drive" designs myself and in a short time you will note LOT's of new HD props on the market in larger versions.
Look at the tips of the APC Thin E prop and you can see how many are getting more RPM with less amp draw out of them.

Flyer 1

I have one of the HyperDrive props but haven't used it yet. It looks promising.
I'd forgotten to mention of of the BEST props of this type I've ever used: the Great Planes Electrifly props for the Fokker D-V11 and SE-5A ARFs.
They've got a unique "lip" at the tip of the prop, supposedly to increase thrust and reduce drag. I dunno about that, but I DO know they take my Fokker D-V11 into the blue faster than just about any other electric I own. They make them in 10 and 11 in. versions. One is DEFINITELY going on this SS, if only to gauge it's performance. They're reasonably priced, too - check 'em out.
Also, let's talk LiPo batteries for a second. What's everyone's favorite?
I know plenty of folks swear by the Thunder Power series. Good grief, there are so many different types to choose from and the number is growing daily. I'm a bit wary of the Chinese lowish-priced imports, but not really for a specific reason.
Personally, my favorite are the new series of Electrify LiPos with the built-in balancing adapter and the "Equinox" balancer. The battery itself is pretty much standard-type, but the Equinox is a unique balancer. It pretty much makes keeping your LiPos in perfect shape, even WITHOUT having a charger. Just hook it between charger and battery, set it, and forget about it. Individual LEDs show which cells are being charged, and which are almost full. Using it without a charger, just plug in the battery and the LEDs light as the balancer very slowly discharges the pack until every cell is matched. It's a really great system.
How many have used the LiPos from CommonSenseRC? They have VERY reasonable prices on their "Budget" line of 8C packs. They're top-notch packs, but just are 8C - fairly low discharge rates. Still, we're not flying Cap 21s or Mustangs here, we're flying Slow Sticks (and most AP birds have similar appetites to the SS, regardless of make).
For instance, check out this battery. You get TWO brand-new, 3 cell 1650 mah packs for $42! True, the continuous disharge is fairly low (but can burst to around 20 amps), but most of our motors will like them just fine. Where else can you get TWO 3S1650 packs for that kinda dough? I have a couple of their 3S3800 packs for my Magister and they're great, not "cheap" at all. Just very very basic. I recommend CommonSenseRC.com to anyone looking for great battery deals - they're great to deal with and usually ship the same day.
Flyer

Balil

has anyone attempted to build a bird from them paint sticks?! *grabs the car keys*

sobamaflyer

I've been playing with the idea of an AP experiment from the moment I started really tinkering with this hobby. Your SSOS inspired me to tear down and rebuild my trusty old SS and send it back to the air with a camera attached.

Thanks!

about a 2 year old Slowstick with original wing, fuselage but new and enlarged tail (bluecor), & new paint under the wing to better see at higher altitudes.
-BP-12 Brushless power (using the 9x5 prop suggested but I may play with that a bit, LOTS of thrust)
-DX-6 radio gear
-Aiptek Pencam (with not nearly as cool a mount as you devised, my next project)

If the wind will ever stop blowing 20mph min I hope to maiden this weekend.

Flyer 1

Well, got the Waypoint motor and mounts today, put 'em on.
Now I'm afraid to fly the thing. This motor is WAAY more powerful that I'd imagined! It's also bigger (but, I admit, looks kinda cool, hulking there on the SS).
A maiden's going to have to wait until the wind lets up, anyhow - somehow I have a feeling the SS won't have any trouble lugging around whatever camera I choose to put on it.
Flyer

aviatordave

cool, nothing wrong with a little (or alot) of extra ooomph. I still am waiting on some parts before I can complete this thing..... but it looks like crappy weather for the next week at the minimum so it might be ok.

nice plane sobamaflyer, hope the wind dies down for you -

Dave

Flyer 1

Might as well post a couple pics.
Instead of using tape to reinforce the middle of the wing, I fiberglassed it on the top - 3 inches wide. Now it's nice'n rigid. However, everyone knows what a wing looks like, so I'll just post a couple of fuse pics.



I chose a Castle Creations Microstamp rx, the one encased in plastic. It just "feels" tougher than the super-lite 4L version (and undoubtedly is). The Futaba digital servos are mounted as close to the tail feathers as possible. I'm considering replacing the control wires with CF rods. That may be overkill, though. One thing about those servos, having never used digital before on a plane like this - they are PRECISE!



I was gonna use a Ultrafly 12 amp. ESC - but once I revved that motor a couple of times I broke out the Venom 25 amp and installed it. I especially like the aluminum motor mounts. Very rigid and easy to install with either bolts or epoxy (as you'cn see I chose bolts).



Now THAT'S some stretched-out electronics! Everything's perfect, though, in terms of balance. With the 3S1500 Lipo installed under the fuse just behind the motor balance is just a TAD tail-heavy, which I want - I'm putting some REAL landing gear on this thing which'll add frontal weight. The wire gear's strictly temporary. It'll have 3-inch foam wheels. Not sure if I'll go for aluminum or CF - CF will be lighter, aluminum cheaper and I'cn make it myself.
Oh yeah - check out the tailwheel in the top pic. I used a O-ring intended for a prop-saver and made a tire for it. I sanded the rim flat on top, then used just a touch of thick CA to stretch it in place and hold it. Why? Mainly because in most videos, every time I land there's that unearthly "skittering" sound that reminds me of African Dung Beetles chittering as the tail wheel touches the asphalt. I mean, everything sounds cool otherwise - the ground approaches, there's the soft "whoop, whoop" of the slowly rotating prop, all is calm... then "Sktritskritscreetchscritch" as the tail comes down. Makes for a jolting moment in the film!
Ah well. Now, time to start on the camera mount.
Flyer

aviatordave

wow, very nice flyer! Your motor looks about the same size as mine....what prop did you end up with? Any idea about how much current draw it has?

Are those 3.5 mm bullet connectors?

The yellow looks alot better than my red!

Dave