Flying Man
08-20-2011, 07:53 PM
#1
Check six
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Posts: 331
Flying Man
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63SFLFUeV4s
1-21-12: Hi all. I've created a new detailed build log with pictures and plans on rcgroups. Here is the link and a short video. Best.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1578106
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3SbK9vlP1Q
1-21-12: Hi all. I've created a new detailed build log with pictures and plans on rcgroups. Here is the link and a short video. Best.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1578106
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3SbK9vlP1Q
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; 01-23-2013 at 04:24 PM. Reason: Update
08-20-2011, 08:00 PM
#2
Retired Master Chief USN
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,837
Originally Posted by Otto Dieffenbach
Here is a video of three sizes of the Flying Man I've created. I have also built a 4th that is of my daughter....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMXgOJtYdKY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMXgOJtYdKY
Outstanding
Welcome aboard
Pleased to meet you
Those are just the "Bees knees"
fantastic job
Thanks ever so much for sharing them with us
Take care
Yours Hank
08-21-2011, 06:22 AM
#7
Check six
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Posts: 331
Build Process for Flying Man
1. Pick a power setup that you like. My 62" man has a standard Parkzone F4U/T-28 setup with the prop cut down to 8" diameter. The diameter of the prop sets the size of the man.
2. Blow up the drawing to a size that will allow the prop to fit between the body sides. I used a regular desktop printer to blow up the drawing.
3. From 6mm depron cut 2 sides, the center body, the top plate and the breast plate. You can cut the center body, the top plate and the breast plate in a right and left halves to conserve depron and glue the halves together. The head can be cut as shown or you can get fancy and shoot some photos of yourself (L and R, Front and Back). Size the prints of your head to the size of the head outline on the plans and cut the depron head to your head shape. You now have all the pieces.
4. On the center body draw the left and right "cut to assemble lines" on the depron. These should be parallel and spead 0.5" greater than the prop diameter. On the inside of the left and right sides draw the center body line. Make sure they match. Now on the inside of the sides, draw the top plate and breast plate lines parallel to .the center body line. Also draw the elevon hinge lines on the depron.
5. Lay your motor with prop on the center body. Put the motor as far forward as possible allowing room for a plywood motor mount and depron reinforcement. Cut out the prop slot and motor slot.
6. Cut the center body along the cut to assemble lines. Take the two outside pieces and cut the two elevons (feet) and attach with 2 dubro hinges on each side.
7. IMPORTANT: The two sides are angled at 15 degrees (see rear view on plans), about a 1 to 5 ratio. I glue the center body and breast plates to one side and then the other. You now have the main box.
8. Glue the outside pieces with the elevons (feet) perpendicular to the sides. They should be canted down by 15 degrees from horizontal (see rear view).
9. Locate servos, as shown, and make cutouts in each side. Glue in position. I use music wire for the linkage and place 5 guides along each linkage to keep the wire from bending. I custom make my horns out of plywood. Throws should be as shown.
10. Mount the motor and brace as required with depron/plywood. Note that in step 12 you will be integrating the head into the motor support bracing.
11. Cut the sides along the top plate line and glue the top plate (arms) in position. Glue the top pieces you cut from the sides to the top of the top plate.
12. Cut the head along the cut to assemble line. Glue the chin piece inplace. Integrate with the motor support structure.
13. Lay your battery on the top of the head and make battery cutout. I make mine snug so the friction holds the battery inplace. Glue the head top to the top plate.
14. Make sure CG is as shown. It should be close. I use nails in the head depron to do fine balancing.
15. On the larger Flying Man, I reinforced the arms by running 1/8" carbon tube from the center of the top plate down the arm to just below the elbow and glued it to the surface. On the smaller verions this is not required.
Send me any questions you have. I'll try to get some pictures together. If it is still fuzzy, cut out the pieces in paper and walk through the build.
2. Blow up the drawing to a size that will allow the prop to fit between the body sides. I used a regular desktop printer to blow up the drawing.
3. From 6mm depron cut 2 sides, the center body, the top plate and the breast plate. You can cut the center body, the top plate and the breast plate in a right and left halves to conserve depron and glue the halves together. The head can be cut as shown or you can get fancy and shoot some photos of yourself (L and R, Front and Back). Size the prints of your head to the size of the head outline on the plans and cut the depron head to your head shape. You now have all the pieces.
4. On the center body draw the left and right "cut to assemble lines" on the depron. These should be parallel and spead 0.5" greater than the prop diameter. On the inside of the left and right sides draw the center body line. Make sure they match. Now on the inside of the sides, draw the top plate and breast plate lines parallel to .the center body line. Also draw the elevon hinge lines on the depron.
5. Lay your motor with prop on the center body. Put the motor as far forward as possible allowing room for a plywood motor mount and depron reinforcement. Cut out the prop slot and motor slot.
6. Cut the center body along the cut to assemble lines. Take the two outside pieces and cut the two elevons (feet) and attach with 2 dubro hinges on each side.
7. IMPORTANT: The two sides are angled at 15 degrees (see rear view on plans), about a 1 to 5 ratio. I glue the center body and breast plates to one side and then the other. You now have the main box.
8. Glue the outside pieces with the elevons (feet) perpendicular to the sides. They should be canted down by 15 degrees from horizontal (see rear view).
9. Locate servos, as shown, and make cutouts in each side. Glue in position. I use music wire for the linkage and place 5 guides along each linkage to keep the wire from bending. I custom make my horns out of plywood. Throws should be as shown.
10. Mount the motor and brace as required with depron/plywood. Note that in step 12 you will be integrating the head into the motor support bracing.
11. Cut the sides along the top plate line and glue the top plate (arms) in position. Glue the top pieces you cut from the sides to the top of the top plate.
12. Cut the head along the cut to assemble line. Glue the chin piece inplace. Integrate with the motor support structure.
13. Lay your battery on the top of the head and make battery cutout. I make mine snug so the friction holds the battery inplace. Glue the head top to the top plate.
14. Make sure CG is as shown. It should be close. I use nails in the head depron to do fine balancing.
15. On the larger Flying Man, I reinforced the arms by running 1/8" carbon tube from the center of the top plate down the arm to just below the elbow and glued it to the surface. On the smaller verions this is not required.
Send me any questions you have. I'll try to get some pictures together. If it is still fuzzy, cut out the pieces in paper and walk through the build.
08-22-2011, 12:22 AM
#10
Insane Wiggy pilot
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,141
Gramps,
i purchased the r/c super hero, and the plans are so detailed that they make building the model much too difficult a chore to be fun. He has many more pieces to assemble, and a ton of c/f in his model. this one is clearly along the same line of thought, but in my opinion, a simplified design, therefore easier to build and from the video, it looks like it flies exceptionally well also. i'm going to try my hand at building this one as soon as my current project is completed... wish me luck..
Otto,
a few pictures or a build video would be a huge help, but i think i understand the build sequence now, hopefully i will have one built in the near future. I'm thinking 3 feet tall may be a good place to start. i would very much appreciate a few motor, e.s.c. battery and prop suggestions for a flyguy in that size...
i purchased the r/c super hero, and the plans are so detailed that they make building the model much too difficult a chore to be fun. He has many more pieces to assemble, and a ton of c/f in his model. this one is clearly along the same line of thought, but in my opinion, a simplified design, therefore easier to build and from the video, it looks like it flies exceptionally well also. i'm going to try my hand at building this one as soon as my current project is completed... wish me luck..
Otto,
a few pictures or a build video would be a huge help, but i think i understand the build sequence now, hopefully i will have one built in the near future. I'm thinking 3 feet tall may be a good place to start. i would very much appreciate a few motor, e.s.c. battery and prop suggestions for a flyguy in that size...
08-22-2011, 01:45 AM
#11
Check six
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Posts: 331
Thanx for the kind words. Since I have 4, I am not into building another but will put together a video and pictures of features of the 4 I have. 36" is a good size and can be built under 9 oz. without any carbon. I even put my 62" on floats (see youtube, search my name). My 39" uses Hobby King stuff. AX 1806N 2500kv motor, 10 amp esc, cheap receiver, 2 HXT 900 (9g) servos, GWS 5x4.3prop and two 2s 500mah 25c batteries in parallel. The only reason I use two batteries is because the nose needed ballast and I figured I would double the flight time to 6-7 min.
08-22-2011, 02:22 AM
#12
Insane Wiggy pilot
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,141
i'm going to staples tomorrow to blow up the plans to 3 feet. i'm thinking of using blu-cor foam for the 1st one then depron for the bigger one, if i decide to build it.
i already have a motor,esc, and batteries for this because we fly David wings at my field,
and that's the power plant that we use on them. here's a video of the wing in flight...
http://youtu.be/Gl3Yv2ZDKqc
i already have a motor,esc, and batteries for this because we fly David wings at my field,
and that's the power plant that we use on them. here's a video of the wing in flight...
http://youtu.be/Gl3Yv2ZDKqc
08-22-2011, 03:31 AM
#16
Insane Wiggy pilot
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,141
with each pic i get the idea better. this should be an easier project than i had first thought.... i'm going with blu-cor and 3 feet in length to start... i also have a bit of
fiber glass rod hanging around that may come in handy to reinforce the arms and legs...
fiber glass rod hanging around that may come in handy to reinforce the arms and legs...
08-22-2011, 03:57 AM
#17
Community Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: oxford, MA
Posts: 7,093
Originally Posted by Otto Dieffenbach
Nope. Motor is in the body not the head. Legs are father apart to allow effective elevons and remove arm ailerons requirement. Alot cheaper to build, little carbon fiber. Have fun.
Nice job, and even better free!
08-22-2011, 04:10 AM
#18
Insane Wiggy pilot
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,141
gramps,
i did plunk down the bucks for the plans and building instructions for the r/c superhero
and even after 3 of us looked at them we decided that there were better ways to spend our time... the building process outlined in the instructions was not user friendly. i've been building and flying 20+ years and this just seemed too much work for this model, so it got put on the back burner. now, this version may get me started cutting foam again sooner rather than later....
i did plunk down the bucks for the plans and building instructions for the r/c superhero
and even after 3 of us looked at them we decided that there were better ways to spend our time... the building process outlined in the instructions was not user friendly. i've been building and flying 20+ years and this just seemed too much work for this model, so it got put on the back burner. now, this version may get me started cutting foam again sooner rather than later....
08-22-2011, 06:48 AM
#19
Check six
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Posts: 331
I must admit ignorance of blu-cor foam and David wings so I am doing research. With a sharp blade, a sheet of depron, the electronics and some CA the Man goes together in an evening..... like building a box. Look up the Sea Dart if you'd like another show stopping project that goes together in a couple evenings.
08-22-2011, 10:36 AM
#22
Check six
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Posts: 331
A few more thoughts
I did not explain why the 15 degree tilt in the sides. My first Flyguy (I like that and will steal it as the name... OK?) was the Capt. America. I built him with straight sides and he had some adverse yaw in turns. I thought that I'd need to add yaw control, a rudder, but after some thought realized that if I canted the elevons that I could get a resultant yaw in addition to roll when roll was commanded. On Capt America I pinched the knees together with a carbon rod and it flew and turned great. The other three were built with the 15 degree side angle.
Flying: This is the most stable platform I've flown over 46 years of RC modelling. It would be a good trainer. Get the CG in the location shown and the elevons should trim to zero reference the center body plate; maybe a little right to correct for torque. The more power you have the easier loops and rolls are to perform. With average power, 0.7 thrust to weight, loops will finish lower than initiated and barrel rolls will be safer than axial at lower altitudes. With thrust to weight greater than 0.9, loops and rolls are easy. Inverted flight is not recommended because the helpful yaw induced in upright turns is now greater adverse yaw in inverted turns. Bottom line.... fly upright and enjoy the oooohs and aaaahs. Anything new, try at altitude first or you may break your neck.
Landing: You can skim it or do a full stall belly flop, either works fine. The Flyguy will tend to tilt/roll forward on his nose after touch/flop down. I use clear tape to protect the edges of the chin and nose. If you flop, the weight of the motor can fracture the depron so on the larger Flyguys brace the motor well.
Flying: This is the most stable platform I've flown over 46 years of RC modelling. It would be a good trainer. Get the CG in the location shown and the elevons should trim to zero reference the center body plate; maybe a little right to correct for torque. The more power you have the easier loops and rolls are to perform. With average power, 0.7 thrust to weight, loops will finish lower than initiated and barrel rolls will be safer than axial at lower altitudes. With thrust to weight greater than 0.9, loops and rolls are easy. Inverted flight is not recommended because the helpful yaw induced in upright turns is now greater adverse yaw in inverted turns. Bottom line.... fly upright and enjoy the oooohs and aaaahs. Anything new, try at altitude first or you may break your neck.
Landing: You can skim it or do a full stall belly flop, either works fine. The Flyguy will tend to tilt/roll forward on his nose after touch/flop down. I use clear tape to protect the edges of the chin and nose. If you flop, the weight of the motor can fracture the depron so on the larger Flyguys brace the motor well.
08-23-2011, 05:14 AM
#24
Insane Wiggy pilot
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,141
otto,
i would be honored if you used the name "Flyguy" for your creation!!! and yes, we use Dow Blu-cor foam from Lowes Home Centers(here in n.y.)a bundle of 25 sheets usually sells for $25 or so. thats enough foam to build quite a few flyguys!!! as for the David wings, heres a video of a 3 cell powered wing, very stable,yet responsive and at full throttle a fun little wing for carving tight turns and stuff.this one also has lights on it for night flying!!!!
http://youtu.be/UJJe7QLT0vE
i was thinking a 6 foot tall flyguy may be a perfect fit for a 70mm
e.d.f. unit i have just sitting in a toolbox looking for a home...
i would be honored if you used the name "Flyguy" for your creation!!! and yes, we use Dow Blu-cor foam from Lowes Home Centers(here in n.y.)a bundle of 25 sheets usually sells for $25 or so. thats enough foam to build quite a few flyguys!!! as for the David wings, heres a video of a 3 cell powered wing, very stable,yet responsive and at full throttle a fun little wing for carving tight turns and stuff.this one also has lights on it for night flying!!!!
http://youtu.be/UJJe7QLT0vE
i was thinking a 6 foot tall flyguy may be a perfect fit for a 70mm
e.d.f. unit i have just sitting in a toolbox looking for a home...
Last edited by iflyrc1012; 08-23-2011 at 05:36 AM.
08-23-2011, 06:32 AM
#25
Check six
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rancho Santa Fe, CA
Posts: 331
Flying Man is now officially Flyguy. If I only knew how to change the thread name... oh well. The 62" is the biggest I could get in the back seat of our car and I didn't want to have to take it apart. If you have transport big enough please go for it and the EDF would be fun.
