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Composite Warbird Build 1/7th P-40E Warhawk

Old 03-20-2011, 07:35 AM
  #76  
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I'll get it cleaned up shortly, but here are some pictures of the new cowl mould. I'll need to mix up some tooling epoxy and fill a couple of small voids, but it worked out well. (nice one pc mould with good trimming edges)




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Old 03-20-2011, 11:10 PM
  #77  
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A glass table is a wonderful thing....






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Old 03-20-2011, 11:20 PM
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I like the last picture...that canopy did not come out of that mold.

Looking good.
Paul
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Old 03-25-2011, 05:48 AM
  #79  
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Canopy Mould with Vacuum Port

Hopefully, I'll be able to trim the canopy frame, put it back in the mould, and then vacuum form the clear sheet over the frame. I'll need to source some material for forming.





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Old 03-26-2011, 07:34 AM
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A word to the wise.

The original canopy could not be removed from the mould. I ended up plugging the vacuum port with clay and filling the mould with acetone in order to dissolve the original. I then drained it out the port into a suitable disposal container.

All in all though, I think it turned out well.

I will trim it up later and then mould a frame around it for clamping the clear sheet.

In the end, I'd like a functional canopy on the flaps channel for my effort.






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Old 03-26-2011, 12:14 PM
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Sorry to hear the canopy wouldn't release properly.


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Old 03-26-2011, 03:31 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Sorry to hear the canopy wouldn't release properly.


Paul
No worries, it all worked out in the end.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:20 PM
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Well, I've been relocated for just about 2 weeks now, so "the itch" is working its way to the surface again. I also have a new workbench that I "salvaged" from a junkpile. It's a great steel desk that had quite a few more bits and pieces that I didn't have room for, so I mixed and matched and came up with the stripped down configuration that you see here. It's sturdy, flat, level, and well re-inforced to make sure that it stays that way. I always frame on glass, so I won't be using it for that, but I was getting more than a little sore from working on my floor and coffee table. I hope to mount my roll of glass toward the wall so that I just pull on it and cut off what I need.

So here goes my first attempt at a canopy frame. For better or worse I'm trying a spray wax release. (too many requests for parts to spend a day waxing with carnauba paste each time - my preferred method)

My bulldog Bugsy says - "We've tried these sprays before and that's how we ended up at pure carnauba wax...."




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Old 04-13-2011, 11:19 PM
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It ain't pretty, but it's a one of a kind. (for now...)

1 layer - 9 oz/ft^2 bi-directional


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Old 04-14-2011, 10:33 AM
  #85  
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Release was exceptional. Although this part is not really a challenge in that respect as it can simply be peeled off the mould. As with the first pull on most tools, I found a couple of places that will require special attention to prevent underfill. If I was a rich man, I would spend the money on some consumables and draw vacuum on the next one.

I haven't put my hands on my dremel since the move, but once I find it, I'll trim this one up and spray some primer on it to see how much detail transferred.

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Old 04-14-2011, 01:15 PM
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I always hated grinding fiberglass.
First it itches, then I mess it up and grind too much.

How do you keep the Dremel from grabbing and pulling into the work?

The frame looks great.

Paul
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
I always hated grinding fiberglass.
First it itches, then I mess it up and grind too much.

How do you keep the Dremel from grabbing and pulling into the work?

The frame looks great.

Paul
Good point Paul - It does itch (and it will find it's way to places you'd prefer not to have it like your bed and your lungs) so I try to do that sort of thing outside or at least near the nozzle of the shop vac.

To keep the cut-off wheel where I want it, I play guitar to keep my hands strong.
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Old 04-15-2011, 03:01 AM
  #88  
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Well, I won't be using this one, but I think I learned what I needed to in order to make one worthy of putting back into the mould and forming the clear canopy around. I think we all get the idea.

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:32 PM
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It looks good in the picture. Whats wrong with it?

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Old 04-15-2011, 02:34 PM
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Oh there's really nothing wrong with it - I'm just particular...lol

Long story short - it could be better and it will only cost me $0.02 to make another one

I used 9 oz/ft^2 cloth because I didn't know what to expect and I have plenty of it around here. The details all came through but the cloth pulled out on a couple of tight corners. Also when you trim with a knife you get a nice clean edge, but when you use a cutoff wheel it leaves a bit of a frayed edge.

Next time I'll use 2 oz/ft^2 cloth and it should solve both problems. Like I said, it won't cost me anything but 1/2 hr of my time, and I enjoy doing it....
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:46 AM
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Today I decided to put together a vacuum source for our little canopy mould. It has a quick-disconnect to the compressed air source and is hooked directly to the vacuum port of the canopy mould.

This will allow me to pull and monitor vacuum on the mould with a little double sided tape around the perimeter of the flange (the smooth surface produced by the glass table top) and a piece of nylon sheet that I still need to salvage somewhere. (pool liner??)

Epoxy won't adhere to the nylon as the frame layup cures but is air tight.

The next layup schedule will be one layer of 2 oz/ft^2 cloth to fix the underfill spots where the heavier cloth didn't get into the corners and to eliminate the frayed edge when trimming with the cutoff wheel.

Once the frame has been trimmed and put back into the mould I will do a similar operation but with the clear canopy sheet across the mould face. Of course it will be heated to a malleable condition before it is sealed across the mould.

This will mould the clear canopy around the fibreglass frame.

Flip the switch and vacuum is pulled on the mould until it reaches an adjustable limit. Should small vacuum leaks develop during the cure, vacuum is re-applied automatically to maintain constant pull.

How many inches of mercury I can pull with this setup has yet to be determined and I'm not going to guess. Frankly I don't think it will take anywhere near 1 atmosphere (or 1 bar, or 28 inches of mercury, or 14.7 psi at sea level...etc)

I'd guess that there's roughly 1/2 ft^2 of mould face at even 10 psi would be like applying around 700 lbs evenly distributed directly on the mould surface.

I can't wait to hook up the compressor, open the valves, and throw the switch....







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Old 04-21-2011, 10:54 PM
  #92  
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Wing Mould Day One

In order to mould the leading edge without a seam line, I need to stand the plug on the trailing edge. Easier than it sounds...

Rule #1 of Modelling - Waste not; want not.

This is the section of my junkpile desk that I did not have room for in my kitchen. The top is steel and is complete with T-slots. Best of all it's free!

The T-slots will let me bolt on some fixturing that can be removed or adjusted as necessary. If you can't see it yet - stay tuned, this thread is about to come to life again.

PostScript - you know, I probably drove by a thousand junk piles without a second glance - but a steel top of the right length to fit my wing mould pulled my truck to the side of the road without a second thought - crazy how your subconscious is always watching....







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Old 04-25-2011, 07:05 PM
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I did some shopping this morning. I found a source for two interesting items only three doors down from my new apartment.

Half-round wooden knobs for registration between mould sections.
These were $0.22 each.

Coroplast Sheet - this is a very interesting material...
I will be using this material for parting planes. $1.39/sq/ft^2 is a little steep, but most of that charge was for the cutting service. It's just what they had ready to go; they thought they could custom cut me larger sections cheaper than what I picked up today. It has a nice smooth surface but there are undulations from the underlying internal structure. The ripple will provide some additional self-alignment in areas were a half-round registration key will not work.
The more interesting property of this material is it's strength to weight ratio in terms of longitudinal shear and compression. Will I be using longer lengths of this to cut ribs and a spar shear web from rather than ply and balsa? There's a very good chance.


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Old 04-25-2011, 08:24 PM
  #94  
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Not to jump around too much, but I also found a heat source for my canopy mould. $10 on sale from $50 - wow I think this thing should work great. I read a few reviews and they were all outstanding. (sometimes I'm a little leary about this particular brand name...)

I thought about making up an elaborate heating station, but frankly, I don't think I could've done any better for the cost.


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Old 04-25-2011, 08:56 PM
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It's hard to go wrong for $0.10.
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:35 AM
  #96  
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It's a fine line and I'm not sure which side this one comes down on....lol
At least I should be able to sit in my chair rather than standing bent over for hours while I make up this leading edge section.

(I never claimed to be a carpenter....)




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Old 04-29-2011, 02:25 AM
  #97  
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THIS IS NOT ADVERTISING, BUT IF YOU ARE READING THIS THREAD YOU MAY WANT TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THIS FREE DVD OFFER.

Here is the description.

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Plus, you'll have access to future videos that will include vacuum infusion, fiberglass repair, and more.

...and here is the link

http://www.freemansupply.com/dvd/

if the link no longer works, please let me know and I'll remove this post, as I think that this is a limited time offer (I got mine sucka's...lol)
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:52 AM
  #98  
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I signed up for it too.

Thanks for the link,

Paul
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:54 PM
  #99  
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Part Air Ejector Port Layout.
Primary parting plane.




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Old 05-06-2011, 02:24 AM
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...still had a couple copies of the plans kicking around! Yeah!!! Much rejoice rang out at the template work that had been saved...



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