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Composite Warbird Build 1/7th P-40E Warhawk

Old 05-07-2011, 12:15 AM
  #101  
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...one day at a time...






PostScript - clean up well - dust is your enemy
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:32 AM
  #102  
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It's nice you're documenting all the work that goes into making a good mold.
Looking forward to seeing how you seal the edges to the wing.

Paul
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:14 AM
  #103  
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I really dig your thread...Ive always wanted to tryvacuum forming some stuff but was too afraid (lazy) to try.

as to your vacuum source: look up HVAC servicemen in the phone book and DRIVE OVER at around 8:00 in the morning and ask them if they have an old vacuum pump laying around that they are willing to part with. We have several at my shop that are too wore out to use for HVAC purposes, but would still pull a pretty good vacuum. I need to pull at least a 500 micron vac on a system after it has been opened. to give you an idea of how little pressure this is, atmospheric pressure is about 250000 microns and water boils at 70 degrees at about 1000-3000 microns. You might just score a souvineer!


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Old 05-09-2011, 08:45 PM
  #104  
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...more to come, but I had a couple of minutes and these are necessary steps, so....

#1 - Ensure parting board is clean.
#2 - Wax on, wax off. 3X Carnauba paste (small, small circles)


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Old 05-11-2011, 09:03 PM
  #105  
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Ready for Clay

...well I guess that says it...







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Old 05-11-2011, 11:12 PM
  #106  
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"Ready for Clay

...well I guess that says it..."

The secret is out.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:15 AM
  #107  
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Old 05-13-2011, 07:39 PM
  #108  
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Dime-in-clay corner fillets will form upper, outer radiused edge of mould face once all white board formers have been removed later.

The parting plane along the trailing edge of the flap bay has turned out quite well and has been carefully positioned to fall precisely at half thickness. This will give the best case scenario for trimming along the mould edges prior to joining.

This clay work isn't finished yet. Stay tuned, there's still plenty of work to do before we paint on that silicon carbide tooling coat.



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Old 05-14-2011, 07:16 PM
  #109  
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Don't forget to identify your tools for the day when they're here and you're not....




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Old 05-16-2011, 03:22 AM
  #110  
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Just a post of some roughed in clay work. Slow going, but all part of the plan I'm afraid.






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Old 05-16-2011, 01:02 PM
  #111  
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Watching this process, it's hard to know what to say.

Paul
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Old 05-17-2011, 12:32 AM
  #112  
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Ongoing clay work...here you can see that there are still a lot of little cracks and crevices to fill - one day at a time - this stuff is worth the extra effort later on





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Old 05-17-2011, 03:06 PM
  #113  
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Somewhere to Pry

I will leave the clay in these pry locations when I flip it over and mould the upper flanges. This will give a nice spot to get the crows foot into when separating the finished upper and lower mould sections. I've tried to target potential problem areas while placing them around the periphery.




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Old 05-17-2011, 05:33 PM
  #114  
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1/4"-20 Flange Bolt Thread Inserts

Be careful not to over tighten the screws. Just pull them down flush.



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Old 05-18-2011, 04:54 PM
  #115  
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Bring it on...if you've got clay, I've got all dang day!

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Old 05-19-2011, 07:23 PM
  #116  
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Yes folks, it was absolutely free afterall!

I'll post a link to the iso file once I get it ripped...

...and here's a supplies link that looks pretty good too

http://www.miapoxy.com/

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Old 05-19-2011, 10:15 PM
  #117  
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Every time I go to use this mould and I don't have tighten a hundred nuts and washers onto all those bolts, I'm gonna grin from ear to friggin' ear! Just set the clutch nice and loose on the driver and give those 1/4" bolts hell. These thread inserts are going to save so much time it's not even funny.




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Old 05-21-2011, 10:54 PM
  #118  
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These are garage door hinges. I had them laying around from a past project and won't be needing them. I thought this might be a good opportunity to try something new and hinge the two main sections of my wing mould. If it doesn't work out, I will simply remove the hinge pins. I will align their axes with the laser level to give it the best shot at working since they can't simply be mounted flat against the angled back wall.

It's the classic risk vs reward. The question is - are yours big enough to get an angle grinder that close to 3 years work?

I'm not finished cleaning up yet but I needed a break, so here's some pics for today.






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Old 05-22-2011, 03:39 PM
  #119  
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These hardwood blocks were $0.50 ea at the woodshop supply store.

Here's their website. They have lightweight ply too...

www.workshopsupply.com

Notice that I've set the hinge pins to level when the blocks are placed on the mould face where they will become part of the finished mould base.


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Old 05-22-2011, 11:21 PM
  #120  
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So the hinge pins are level, at the same height, and in the same plane. Hopefully this will work because it will take what is really an awkward two person job and make joining the bulky clam sections a one handed operation. There's still some play in the end because I can shim the hinge plates on the hardwood should need be to get things finalized.



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Old 05-24-2011, 12:35 AM
  #121  
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So this is pretty much the mould form completed and ready to cast. I will now go over everything with a fine tooth comb and make sure all the clay is finished off properly.

Once I've laid the main lower section in the formers, they will need to be removed. The clay blocks around the top will just give me somewhere to get between the newly cast mould face and the white board. The formers are very close to the finished plug and we don't want to be trying to force something in the seam to pry the board away from the plug in order to carry on to the second mould section. (main upper) Just dig out the clay and there'll be a nice place to GENTLY pry off these white board formers.

The recesses around the perimeter of the base will also provide a little rigidity but that's not really why I did it.

I've also added two air ports in the wheel bays. They're held in place with clay. Just before laying up a part in the mould I will fill the hole with some clay and glass over them. Once the part has cured I'm hoping that a short blast of air in this location will free the part from the mould. It's the deepest spot in the mould, and it's a flat face at the bottom of a tightly controlled cylindrical form....we'll see....







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Old 05-26-2011, 09:25 PM
  #122  
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Almost forgot to fill the wing mounting holes...added cavities in the mould at the aileron trailing edges too. The empty cavity just outboard of the inboard hinge (hmm...clear as mud eh?) will provide a place to feed the control rods from the bellcranks during assembly.

Oh, and a quick pic from the couch of all the pieces that I have moulds for, all duct taped together - motivation....



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Old 06-14-2011, 08:40 AM
  #123  
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Once I have progressed to some of the heavier cloth layers in the layup of this main lower mould section, I will lay this straw conduit down on a tacky surface and continue to lay cloth up on top of it. All of the joints have been sealed with clear tape to keep the resin out. I will mould a pipe union into the end faces so that I can screw taps onto each end of the mould.

By running hot tap water through the mould face, I hope to have a means for controlling the time/temp curve for the cure and tool cycles. I should be able to reduce the cure time to some noticeable effect with only tap water to a maximum of about 140 deg. fahrenheit or about 60 Celcius.

To my estimation, this would represent the home hobbiest's best chance of approaching any sort of idealized tool utilization rate while maintaining a moderate capital investment.




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Old 06-14-2011, 12:39 PM
  #124  
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I never would have thought of that.

Paul
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:45 PM
  #125  
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I like that idea, but I would be worried about the integrity of the straws over time. Perhaps a single piece of thin copper pipe? they have cheap hand tools to allow easy bending and shaping of the pipe and you wouldn't have to worry about leaks. You also would get better heat transfer from copper vs. plastic, although at this size it would be minimal...
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