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I need some trimming help (stryker)

Old 08-22-2007, 02:25 AM
  #1  
manblue
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Default I need some trimming help (stryker)

Hey,

I bought the F27-C a couple weeks ago, and it is great, and it flys decent out of the box. I would recommend it to anyone.

So far I had 10 successful flights with it, but here is my problem:

The plane always went right aileron by itself in neutral trim,
now I have it trimmed all the way to the left and it still does it slightly.
Also, one of the control surfaces goes up higher and the other one goes down lower than the other.

I would really like to get the planned trimmed perfect so what should I do?

I also noticed that the servo horns aren't perfectly centered in the neutral position, and aren't pointing up 90 degrees.

How are the servos mounted inside the wing?

My plan is to center both servo horns, and then adjust the threads by the control horns

And tips and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:29 AM
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manblue
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Also, I just read about glassing your stryker.
Could anyone give me some more info and how it is done?
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:57 AM
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Kosh
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Hi manblue and welcome to Wattflyer,

Look at both your ailerons and make sure they are flat, Sometimes they come with a little bow in them that affects trim. There easy and cheap to replace if thats the case here. There are 2 screws holding on the control horn and you may be able to loosen the side affected, move it a little and re tighten it.
The servos are glued in place under the wing and taped over, You could remove the one and change the arm 1 tooth forward if the above doesnt work for you.

Glassing is simply laying fiberglass over the plane and sealing it on, This adds weight but makes the plane stronger however a crash will most likely break the foam anyways. A whole new body for the F27 is only $19 so for most its just not worth it. Should you have a bad crash just transfer all the gear to a new body.
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:38 AM
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manblue
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thanks for your great reply
I noticed how one of them is slightly bowed...I might make some balsa ones in the future.

So, to reposition the servo horn I would have to rip/cut out the servo from the wing? And than glue it back in with epoxy?

And what exactly did you mean by "side affected"?
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Old 08-22-2007, 04:13 AM
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Kosh
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Originally Posted by manblue View Post

So, to reposition the servo horn I would have to rip/cut out the servo from the wing? And than glue it back in with epoxy?

And what exactly did you mean by "side affected"?
Try to move the control horn first a little and if that fails to correct your centering problem then you may want to try the servo arm.
Turn the plane over and you can feel the outline of where the servo is placed. The servo doesn't need to be removed and only tilted up enough to get to the screw holding the arm on.

By side affected I mean the one side that wont trim out. If you set your trim to the center on the TX one side should be much lower than the other in your case. Thats the side that you need to work on to correct this.
Its not a big deal but just take your and let us know if you need more help.
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:47 PM
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Hey now,
To remove a servo that's been glued in place:
First remove the push rod from the servo or control horn.
Next remove any servo cover or tape. Look to see if the servo is covered with tape or heat shrink tubing, if so, cut that loose and the servo should just come free.
If not then use a pair of channel lock plyers, gentley grab the servo by the sides of the case and twisdt it side to side. This should break the glue bond. Make your changes, wrap the servo in masking tape, and glue it back in place. Simple.

To straighten a bowed control surface:
Use gentle heat, a heat gun, sealing iron, or even steam from a kettle.
Carefuly bend the surface back against the bow. Bend it a little past straight and gentley apply heat. Stop and check your progress regularly, if you go too far bend it back a little. Again, simple if you know how, and now you do.
RobII
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:30 PM
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manblue
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Elfwreck, your post really helped a lot

I just got home from the flying field, and I am decided that I will put the work in it to make it perfect.
Did anyone else have this problem with their stock strykers?
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:23 AM
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it was a lot less work than I thought it would be and everything worked out great!
I can't wait to fly it tomorrow...

By the way, when I removed the stickers it took of a lot of the paint and now white foam is showing thrue.

I am thinking I might just paint the bottom metalic black, maybe some other color and I will keep the top side stock.

Are there paints that could harm the foam, is there anyone that could recommend me something.
Would normal black spray paint and a couple coats of clear coat work good?
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by manblue View Post
it was a lot less work than I thought it would be and everything worked out great!
I can't wait to fly it tomorrow...

By the way, when I removed the stickers it took of a lot of the paint and now white foam is showing thrue.

I am thinking I might just paint the bottom metalic black, maybe some other color and I will keep the top side stock.

Are there paints that could harm the foam, is there anyone that could recommend me something.
Would normal black spray paint and a couple coats of clear coat work good?
most spray paints will eat the foam! test on a scrap piece of foam to be sure, but you should be ok if you use a water based paint like Krylons H2O paints.
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Old 08-23-2007, 06:39 PM
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Elfwreck
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Hey now,
Piffle! Strykers are made from "Z foam" something close to EPP, same as MPX foamies. Go ahead and use rattle can enamals, won't hurt the foam a bit.
I've painted several Strykers this way with no trouble at all.
That's not to say all foam is o.k., EPS, FFF, Depron, etc won't survive most rattle can paints, but this foam is fine.
RobII
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Elfwreck View Post
Hey now,
Piffle! Strykers are made from "Z foam" something close to EPP, same as MPX foamies. Go ahead and use rattle can enamals, won't hurt the foam a bit.
I've painted several Strykers this way with no trouble at all.
That's not to say all foam is o.k., EPS, FFF, Depron, etc won't survive most rattle can paints, but this foam is fine.
RobII
I stand corrected! thank you for the info, elfwreck. I was unaware of that!
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:58 AM
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Lip84
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Originally Posted by Elfwreck View Post
Hey now,
Piffle! Strykers are made from "Z foam" something close to EPP, same as MPX foamies. Go ahead and use rattle can enamals, won't hurt the foam a bit.
I've painted several Strykers this way with no trouble at all.
That's not to say all foam is o.k., EPS, FFF, Depron, etc won't survive most rattle can paints, but this foam is fine.
RobII

I have had sevearl epp planes that were eaten by glue and or paint.
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:13 AM
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Kosh
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Remember its NOT the paint that eats the foam but the propellant used to push it out and yes some will eat EPP foam. I like the Krylon H2O latex because its flexable and wont flake off like lots of the others.
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Old 08-24-2007, 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Kosh View Post
Remember its NOT the paint that eats the foam but the propellant used to push it out and yes some will eat EPP foam. I like the Krylon H2O latex because its flexable and wont flake off like lots of the others.
I thought it was the solvent in the paint that did the eating, not the propellant...
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Old 08-24-2007, 03:36 AM
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That could be with a few paints but do a little test sometime, Spray foam from 3" away and it melts, spray from 12" away and its ok.
From 12" away the air dissipates most of the propellant thats eating the foam.
You don't want to know how I found that out the hard way.

Anyways the H2O paint is water based and has no harmful propellant so its safe to use on anything.
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Old 08-24-2007, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Kosh View Post
That could be with a few paints but do a little test sometime, Spray foam from 3" away and it melts, spray from 12" away and its ok.
From 12" away the air dissipates most of the propellant thats eating the foam.
You don't want to know how I found that out the hard way.

Anyways the H2O paint is water based and has no harmful propellant so its safe to use on anything.
I believe you, Kosh. I just always thought it was the solvent that was the culprit for dissolving the foam...
I use the H2O paint on my foamies, but with this new knowledge, it might be time to do a little experimenting to see if I can't use other paint for more color choices!
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Old 08-24-2007, 05:21 AM
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If I'm really worried about it melting the foam I just spray the paint into the cap or a plastic bowl and brush on the color needed. No propellant to worry about that way, This also works great for touch ups with a Q-Tip swap that you just throw away then.
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:00 PM
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Hey now,
Not saying in any way that I disbelieve you, but I'd like a specific list of what paints and glues melt EPP.
I know cylume liquid light can mess it up, but who would cut up a light stick and pour it all over their model anyway (other than the idiot who did it I mean.)?

On EPP I use goop to glue it, nothing else sticks quite as well, and rattle can enamals to spray them (no airbrush as yet), even cleaning with acetone sometimes hasn't hurt them. Same with "Z foam", "elapor", and "arccel foam". Never any trouble at all either with the solvent or the propellant. Now on EPS etc it does melt and very quickly...

I want that list so I can play with them and see, I've got plenty of scrap EPP laying about the shop, just take a step and you'll find some...
RobII
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Old 08-25-2007, 01:59 AM
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manblue
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thanks for all the info.

i am actually really considering glassing my stryker. But I have never worked with fiberglass before, and I don't know where to buy the suplies.
Could anyone help me out here?
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Old 08-25-2007, 02:21 AM
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Ron S
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Glassing a sytryker will give you a smoother surface. This helps with painting. Does a Stryker really need to be "glassed" for strength? I don't think so.:< You can also use 600 grit wet sand paper and smooth out the little bumps on the surface,then use WBPC to coat the airframe,then paint it. This will give good results,and less weight also. Will it be bullet proof? Nope! It will make it more durable,but when you auger it in full bore,it won't make much diffrence,glass,WBPC,or anything else. I use acrylic paint,then spray several coats of the polycrylic over it to seal in the paint. It makes the surface more durable,but not bullet proof. I think most people think that "glassing" a plane will make it almost indestructable. A corvette body is "glass" but don't hit a tree with one! Planes are made to fly,not crash, except the (Dura Plane,remember that one?) that sucker would take some serious abuse(didn't fly all that great though. Ron
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:17 AM
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manblue
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luckily, I have never crashed it so far. 10+ flights
I am not looking to get an indestructable plane out of it, but I do think paint won't stick to the foam too good.
I would just like to stiffen the wings up a little bit, and get a durable/smooth paint finish.
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