Support & Suggestions If you need tech support post your question here or site suggestions too.

Help Need build sheet instructions

Old 12-20-2016, 06:13 AM
  #26  
Wildflyer
Past President of PSSF
 
Wildflyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lacey WA, 1 mile E of Mushroom Corner
Posts: 2,005
Default

I use nylon spacer tubes from Home Depot. They are a very solid nylon tube about 1/4 - 5/16 outside dia. HD really has many sizes and wall thickness, and lengths, or buy long ones and cut them.

I have used them on some fairly large mo
Wildflyer is offline  
Old 12-20-2016, 06:49 AM
  #27  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
I use nylon spacer tubes from Home Depot. They are a very solid nylon tube about 1/4 - 5/16 outside dia. HD really has many sizes and wall thickness, and lengths, or buy long ones and cut them.

I have used them on some fairly large mo

Do you have a picture of them in use?
Spike101 is offline  
Old 12-20-2016, 05:51 PM
  #28  
Wildflyer
Past President of PSSF
 
Wildflyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lacey WA, 1 mile E of Mushroom Corner
Posts: 2,005
Default

On this plane I am using 1- 1/4" and 1- 1" spacer stacked up to give me 1 1/4" total.
The bolts are slightly wider at the firewall, because the previous owner had drilled the firewall for a nitro motor mount, I just used the same holes.

When I first saw this type of motor adjustment, I thought it would be kind of wobbly. I am very happy with how solidly the motor is mounted, it will NOT wiggle around. This particular motor is rated at over 1100 watts. I am running it at 850 watts on a 6lb trainer plane, it will go straight up or hover.

You can get the nylon tubes from a washer to maybe 2" long. I have seen them in sizes from appropriate for a 6/32 to a 3/8 bolt.
Use good strong bolts, I think they are working a bit harder than bolts holding an X mount directly to the firewall.

At a local industrial bolt supply company, I saw threaded nylon tubes. They could be fastened by a bolt coming through the firewall, and then the motor mount would be bolted from the front to the tubes. I am going to try this some time.

All of these pieces are very hard strong nylon, they will take a lot of force.

Sorry my plane is so dusty, I had it stored in my woodworking shop.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg
Motor spacers.jpeg (1.05 MB, 132 views)
Wildflyer is offline  
Old 12-20-2016, 07:20 PM
  #29  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
On this plane I am using 1- 1/4" and 1- 1" spacer stacked up to give me 1 1/4" total.
The bolts are slightly wider at the firewall, because the previous owner had drilled the firewall for a nitro motor mount, I just used the same holes.

When I first saw this type of motor adjustment, I thought it would be kind of wobbly. I am very happy with how solidly the motor is mounted, it will NOT wiggle around. This particular motor is rated at over 1100 watts. I am running it at 850 watts on a 6lb trainer plane, it will go straight up or hover.

You can get the nylon tubes from a washer to maybe 2" long. I have seen them in sizes from appropriate for a 6/32 to a 3/8 bolt.
Use good strong bolts, I think they are working a bit harder than bolts holding an X mount directly to the firewall.

At a local industrial bolt supply company, I saw threaded nylon tubes. They could be fastened by a bolt coming through the firewall, and then the motor mount would be bolted from the front to the tubes. I am going to try this some time.

All of these pieces are very hard strong nylon, they will take a lot of force.

Sorry my plane is so dusty, I had it stored in my woodworking shop.
Thanks for the info and the picture as well. Looking at your plane, I think I will do the same for mounting mine. Great idea and execution, Thank you very much. I like your thinking outside the box. I have to pick up some pvc pipe as well to make an airplane stand for working on this plane.

Last edited by Spike101; 12-22-2016 at 02:20 AM.
Spike101 is offline  
Old 12-21-2016, 11:15 PM
  #30  
ron_van_sommeren
homo ludens modelisticus
 
ron_van_sommeren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: near Nijmegen, Nederland
Posts: 1,090
Default

Originally Posted by Spike101 View Post
... Perhaps, I am reading into your question and overreacting, just seems a little strange to be asked such an off topic question 21 posts into a helpful progressive thread. I am NOT upset, I am however confused as to the timing of your question.
That plane is not suited for learning to fly/build/installradio. You have to walk before you can run. I'm helping you not to crash your first plane within 10sec is very helpful.
ron_van_sommeren is offline  
Old 12-22-2016, 02:19 AM
  #31  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by ron_van_sommeren View Post
That plane is not suited for learning to fly/build/installradio. You have to walk before you can run. I'm helping you not to crash your first plane within 10sec is very helpful.
Hi ron_van_sommeren,

If you would have read one or two post more of my posts on this thread you would have read, that I explained that I am not using this as a starter plane.

I do appreciate your concern.
Spike101 is offline  
Old 12-22-2016, 02:29 AM
  #32  
birdDog
Charging....
 
birdDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Too close to Chicago.
Posts: 2,433
Default

He means well. I assure you that he read this entire thread. Just be careful with that sweet plane, it is a pretty serious model.
birdDog is offline  
Old 12-22-2016, 02:30 AM
  #33  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

I received my servos today and I now know I will need some extension cables to be able to reach the RX box.
Spike101 is offline  
Old 12-29-2016, 09:49 PM
  #34  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

I found some build instructions online for my model/size of plane. Makes it a lot easier to figure this all out.

Thank you all for you help, your support means a lot.
Spike101 is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 01:56 PM
  #35  
grumpyscm
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Clarkesville GA
Posts: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Spike101 View Post
This plane did not come with the electric engine adjustable mount, so I guess I will need to find some balsa and make something up to work in it's place.

I will take some more internal pictures of the plane and post them. I have the landing gear installed now. Although this is a large plane the size of my paws will be a challenge. It was fun assembling thus far and am looking forward to the next challenge.
DO NOT MAKE THE MOTOR MOUNT FROM BALSA!
Either get a good metal adjustable mount or reference Plywood motor mounts
grumpyscm is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 02:35 PM
  #36  
tobydogs
love to build!
 
tobydogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: nj usa
Posts: 3,692
Default

Spike, Sounds like your enjoying this build and in my book thats really important to the learning process. I'm enjoying following along your build so please keep sharing pictures....We love pictures of build progress here at Wattflyer. You have great plans to learning this hobby of rc flying. The fact your plans include a fellow pilot to help you fly should remove any further on why you love building planes.

The present existing motor box built on your fuse for a fuel motor will only require 4 standoffs made of metal or strong plastic type. all you need to do is set the nose cowel into place as per instructions. hold your motor so your sure your prop will clear the front openning and measure the space. order the standoffs and cut to size. bolt motor to existing motor box.....very easy!! you don't need to build a added box. if anything,I would reinforce the existing box by adding lite ply or basswood.

FACT!! the landing mount areas on a lot of ARFS are designed a little weak for a bumpy landing. I always beef this area up with thin ply and added epoxy. the weight added is far to little to consider not a good idea. I have flown ^0inch wing span kits and even with beefed up LG mounts have managed to knock a few off during rough landing. At least I consider a broken Lg one of the easiest repairs in case you don't do this added protection.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSCN2031.JPG (471.3 KB, 82 views)
tobydogs is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 04:31 PM
  #37  
grumpyscm
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Clarkesville GA
Posts: 0
Default

Originally Posted by tobydogs View Post
Spike, Sounds like your enjoying this build and in my book thats really important to the learning process. I'm enjoying following along your build so please keep sharing pictures....We love pictures of build progress here at Wattflyer. You have great plans to learning this hobby of rc flying. The fact your plans include a fellow pilot to help you fly should remove any further on why you love building planes.

The present existing motor box built on your fuse for a fuel motor will only require 4 standoffs made of metal or strong plastic type. all you need to do is set the nose cowel into place as per instructions. hold your motor so your sure your prop will clear the front openning and measure the space. order the standoffs and cut to size. bolt motor to existing motor box.....very easy!! you don't need to build a added box. if anything,I would reinforce the existing box by adding lite ply or basswood.

FACT!! the landing mount areas on a lot of ARFS are designed a little weak for a bumpy landing. I always beef this area up with thin ply and added epoxy. the weight added is far to little to consider not a good idea. I have flown ^0inch wing span kits and even with beefed up LG mounts have managed to knock a few off during rough landing. At least I consider a broken Lg one of the easiest repairs in case you don't do this added protection.
tobydogs has an excellent solution which I have also used with great success. Just be sure that the standoffs are exactly the same length or you will some thrust offset that could be detrimental if thrust is in the wrong direction. You might check and see if thrust offset is required for that particular plane. If so then that is another learning curve. Excellent decision to have an experienced pilot maiden the plane and get the initial trim setups. Take things slow and easy and don't try to rush yourself. Stick time is the best teacher.
grumpyscm is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 05:25 PM
  #38  
birdDog
Charging....
 
birdDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Too close to Chicago.
Posts: 2,433
Default

Just a little FYI. The electric motor box (extension) for the 60" MXS is square. Zero thrust angle built into it. This would suggest, as mentioned above, 4 equal length spacers.
birdDog is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 07:18 PM
  #39  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Well here is what I came up with so far for mounting the engine. It is strong and very adjustable. Stove bolts 5" with locking nuts and washers. I may add some additional wood supports, sort of sandwich the mount with glued in spacers and drill out for the mounting holes.

Tell me what you think so far.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSCN1766.JPG (965.9 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg
DSCN1767.JPG (869.5 KB, 119 views)
File Type: jpg
DSCN1765.JPG (1.01 MB, 99 views)
Spike101 is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 08:23 PM
  #40  
grumpyscm
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Clarkesville GA
Posts: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Spike101 View Post
Well here is what I came up with so far for mounting the engine. It is strong and very adjustable. Stove bolts 5" with locking nuts and washers. I may add some additional wood supports, sort of sandwich the mount with glued in spacers and drill out for the mounting holes.

Tell me what you think so far.
Looks OK If You are going to use a spinner you will have to adjust for the spinner backing plate and if not you will have to adjust for prop clearance. Either move the motor forward or work with the cowl, which ever is easiest. I suggest about 1/16 inch clearance. Try not to have to use any spacers on the prop adapter. and be sure your prop is balanced. Using spacers opens you up to vibration problems.
grumpyscm is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 08:35 PM
  #41  
grumpyscm
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Clarkesville GA
Posts: 0
Default

Originally Posted by grumpyscm View Post
Looks OK If You are going to use a spinner you will have to adjust for the spinner backing plate and if not you will have to adjust for prop clearance. Either move the motor forward or work with the cowl, which ever is easiest. I suggest about 1/16 inch clearance. Try not to have to use any spacers on the prop adapter. and be sure your prop is balanced. Using spacers opens you up to vibration problems.
It also looks as if you will have plenty of incoming air for the motor cooling but you will have to provide for the air to exit also. It is also a possibility that you can mount your ESC to the motor mount box in the same air stream that comes off the motor. As a suggestion you want the exit area approximately 1/3 larger that the entrance area.
grumpyscm is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 08:46 PM
  #42  
birdDog
Charging....
 
birdDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Too close to Chicago.
Posts: 2,433
Default

The cross hairs burned into the firewall, they project to the center of the motor shaft at cowl length from the built in right thrust angle. Your motor mounting should be centered on them. As currently built, your cowl is skewed to the right.

Also, it is good practice to go over all accessible glue joints with thin CA (superglue). Some occasionally get missed in production and it's nice to personally verify that all main structural elements are secured.
birdDog is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 10:24 PM
  #43  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by birdDog View Post
The cross hairs burned into the firewall, they project to the center of the motor shaft at cowl length from the built in right thrust angle. Your motor mounting should be centered on them. As currently built, your cowl is skewed to the right.

Also, it is good practice to go over all accessible glue joints with thin CA (superglue). Some occasionally get missed in production and it's nice to personally verify that all main structural elements are secured.
Your saying I should center the motor on the cross hairs on the motor mount, not center it on the center of the box like I did? Why is that important?

There is an area on the bottom of the fuselage that I can cut out the laminate for air movement through the plane.

Thanks
Spike101 is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 10:52 PM
  #44  
birdDog
Charging....
 
birdDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Too close to Chicago.
Posts: 2,433
Default

Correct. Your mount should center on the cross hairs. The firewall is built with 2-3 degrees angle in it. It is not perpendicular to the length of the model. This 2-3 degrees amount the the distance between the burned cross hair vertical line and your scribed layout line. As currently built, your prop will be that distance off center line of the length of the airplane. It should not be a problem to rotate the entire mounting assembly a bit if the new holes encroach on the current ones.

Here are some typical exit vents.

I just cut the film in a bay behind the wings/canopy about 1/4" from the balsa and sealing iron it down into the hole. If you don't have a sealing iron perhaps a WARM putty knife or something the like. About 280-310 degrees will do. Actually a clothes iron, if available, would be ideal.



Save the piece of film you cut out for the vent incase of future repairs!
birdDog is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 11:25 PM
  #45  
birdDog
Charging....
 
birdDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Too close to Chicago.
Posts: 2,433
Default

I'm glad you are posting this thread. I would like to see more variety in the balsa electric market. The more people who see this, the better it is for that market.

The 60" MXS flies extremely well. I have not found any bad tendencies in a handful of flights. Seems to stall pretty flat. "Seems" only because I have yet to take it up in calm winds.


I'm impressed by all aspects (aside from yours being shorted on the motor box).

I'm pretty sure my next purchase in going to be this Corvus in the 59" platform.

Edit: Aint that darned thing pretty?
birdDog is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 11:43 PM
  #46  
tobydogs
love to build!
 
tobydogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: nj usa
Posts: 3,692
Default

Spike,
Birddog is right and and when you relocate the mounting holes for the bolts ,blind nuts would be better than the multi nut fastening design that may come loose under extreme stress and vibration your motor will put on those bolts. Just a suggestion....use the same bolts and use the plastic standoffs with the blind nuts and plenty of blue thread locker. better yet would be to get the heavy duty metal motor mounts for extending off the wood motor box.
This is my thought as to why. The Eflight 110 is a very big motor. good for 12 to 15 pound planes. The ESC should be larger than spec'ed so if elite says 80 amp,go 20 higher to be safe.[If it was my plane I would use 100amp esc]. You'll be turning a 17 to 18inch prop and the power 110 battery should be an 8cell pack. Don't be shocked at the weight of this as your power setup is very much like what general hobbies suggested. in fact your setup is good for a heavier plane than what your building. the Eflite 110 is going to have a lot of torque on those bolts and a noseover landing while the prop is spinning is sure to knock them out of alignment. Just a suggestion.

Heres a goof, my great planes rv-4-40 has a cowel very much like yours.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSCN2004.JPG (479.4 KB, 108 views)
tobydogs is offline  
Old 01-07-2017, 11:53 PM
  #47  
birdDog
Charging....
 
birdDog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Too close to Chicago.
Posts: 2,433
Default

Actually, now that tobydogs mentioned it, I would definitely go with the nylon spacers. They will add a lot more rigidity to withstand the torque and potentially side load that a rough landing or some knife edge spins/blenders would produce. I also like the blind nuts and sometimes even another nut behind those to really lock things down.
birdDog is offline  
Old 01-08-2017, 01:21 AM
  #48  
tobydogs
love to build!
 
tobydogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: nj usa
Posts: 3,692
Default

On my build of the General Hobby 60inch ws SBach, I used a eflite power 60 400kv,100 amp castle Ice esc, and two zippy batteries run in series =7cell. One 3cell,and one 4cell. both 4000mah 40c. I would rubber band them together and built a tray to keep them center inside the fuse and pushed all the way forward. 2 wide velcro straps also held them firmly in place along with velcro on the tray and battery so they stayed put up front. With a 17inch APC prop I had the best vertical climb of all my larger builds. The SBach was so light compared to kit builds.
Spike,you may also find the 8 or 9 cell batteries you use to be forward to get COG right. If you do,be sure to cut of and motor mounting bolts poking through the fire wall. this way if you land a nose-over,your batters can't slide forward into the bolt resulting in dreaded smoke or worse.
A suggested battery pair for the 110, two 4cell 4000mah 40c[or higher c rating] since you will be requiring many wot for awesome aerobatics. with the right prop you could also go 9 cells. I always pared batteries is series rather than buy a 8cell pack so I could use the individual batteries for other planes an cell count combinations.
tobydogs is offline  
Old 01-08-2017, 02:22 AM
  #49  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by tobydogs View Post
Spike,
Birddog is right and and when you relocate the mounting holes for the bolts ,blind nuts would be better than the multi nut fastening design that may come loose under extreme stress and vibration your motor will put on those bolts. Just a suggestion....use the same bolts and use the plastic standoffs with the blind nuts and plenty of blue thread locker. better yet would be to get the heavy duty metal motor mounts for extending off the wood motor box.
This is my thought as to why. The Eflight 110 is a very big motor. good for 12 to 15 pound planes. The ESC should be larger than spec'ed so if elite says 80 amp,go 20 higher to be safe.[If it was my plane I would use 100amp esc]. You'll be turning a 17 to 18inch prop and the power 110 battery should be an 8cell pack. Don't be shocked at the weight of this as your power setup is very much like what general hobbies suggested. in fact your setup is good for a heavier plane than what your building. the Eflite 110 is going to have a lot of torque on those bolts and a noseover landing while the prop is spinning is sure to knock them out of alignment. Just a suggestion.

Heres a goof, my great planes rv-4-40 has a cowel very much like yours.....

So you think the blind nuts would hold better than the double nylon locking nuts? Do you think I need the standoffs as well?

I bought 2 - 5000mah 30c 4S batteries to link in series and I also bought an APC 18x10 speed prop, 100 amp castle ESC.

I thought I would use velcro on each battery to fuselage (stops sliding) as well as wrapping velcro around the batteries through the frame (holds them in place).
Spike101 is offline  
Old 01-08-2017, 02:23 AM
  #50  
Spike101
New Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by birdDog View Post
Correct. Your mount should center on the cross hairs. The firewall is built with 2-3 degrees angle in it. It is not perpendicular to the length of the model. This 2-3 degrees amount the the distance between the burned cross hair vertical line and your scribed layout line. As currently built, your prop will be that distance off center line of the length of the airplane. It should not be a problem to rotate the entire mounting assembly a bit if the new holes encroach on the current ones.

Here are some typical exit vents.

I just cut the film in a bay behind the wings/canopy about 1/4" from the balsa and sealing iron it down into the hole. If you don't have a sealing iron perhaps a WARM putty knife or something the like. About 280-310 degrees will do. Actually a clothes iron, if available, would be ideal.



Save the piece of film you cut out for the vent incase of future repairs!
I have available holes much like these that I will open up as well.
Thanks
Spike101 is offline  

Quick Reply: Help Need build sheet instructions


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.13576 seconds with 18 queries