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Maxford Gee Bee Model E 59" WSP

Old 06-23-2013, 07:05 PM
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Default Maxford Gee Bee Model E 59" WSP

I went nuts and ran out and bought this electric powered ARF model after reading about it in Greg Gimlick's June 2013 Model Aviation article/review. I took Lucien Miller's recommendation and bought a Cobra C3525/12 BL motor and 60 amp Cobra ESC with switch mode BEC and programming card( Innov8tive Designs). This motor has the KV and oomph to spin up to a 15 x 8 prop to overcome prop blanking and drag of the large dummy radial and cowl ring, etc. I bought two 4500mah 30 C 4S lipos from Hobby People for $49.00 apiece.

I bought four HS-82 metal geared high torque mini servos, not trusting a model of this size and power to the recommended micro sized HS-55's. I noted a lot of friction where rudder and elevator pushrods exit the rear of the fuselage. I cut away a bit of covering material and used a small round swiss file to relieve the friction and rubbed some WD-40 onto the steel rods with fingers, they move easily now. This is a big step up in size and dollars from my previous small electric powered mostly built-up scale and sport models and takes me back to my IC days in many ways except for having to clean up "goo". My avatar pic is my old .40 sized Coverite Gee Bee E.

I am about to start assembling the model and may add some pegs to the center leading edge of the two wing panels to enage the bulkhead more sturdily than the ply ears at the ends of the root ribs. Might permanently join wing halves for a one-piece wing. This ARF model is made of CNC light ply parts and iron-on covering. Here is a related thread on RCG with more info:
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Old 04-22-2014, 07:18 PM
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Default My Experiences With Maxford Gee Bee E

As I assembled the kit I noticed that the model was not actually a Model "E" but a Model "Y" . The Y was a larger design with two cockpits, one covered over for racing. The Y had tubing type under-stabilizer braces and different rigging on top. Not able to leave well enough alone, I added dummy topside wing rigging, Y type windshield and full dummy tail rigging. I used a Cobra 3125/12 motor, 60 amp Cobra speed control with switch mode BEC. I used a 14x9 APC prop and 4S 4500mah Hobby People lipo pack . Had an aborted takeoff which seemed to indicate a serious tail heavy condition. Added 11 ounces of flat lead fishing weights to firewall and had very good scale warbird/3D pilot maiden it for me. Was way too nose heavy. Removed weights with each successful test flight until we got down to two ounces. Model has slight twist in wing or washout on left none on right. Model can now fly hands off with some right rudder and aileron trim and some up elevator trm. CG is now at the recommended 2 and 3/4" behind leading edge. Aierons are marginally effective, need full throws to attempt rolls. Does big loops nicely after a little dive to gain speed.
Needs Hobby People 4S 4500 lipos as far forward in battery compartment as possible. Model is pitch and CG sensitive, needs an intermediate+ skilled tail-dragger pilot. Needs to be greased on for landings like a P-51, wheel pants are best on paved takeoff and landing surface. Not particularly tip-stall prone but keep some speed on because of large dummy radial/ring cowl, wheel pants and rigging. Needs long enough landing strip and needs to take off at shallow angle ,when ready at full throttle.As always, you mileage may vary. Model must be turned over to change battery packs. Made PVC stand for it. Go here for more info:
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