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Maxford Nieuport 28 ARF

Old 11-22-2008, 10:56 PM
  #26  
Kmot
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The tail number decals were missing from my package, but they arrived today. In the meantime, I painted the tail over in flat colors. The blue in particular needed to be darker. With the tail numbers in place it looks better. I posed for a couple of outdoor shots. Still have not worked on the wing rigging. No time.





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Old 11-22-2008, 11:09 PM
  #27  
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Previous post should have actually been posted yesterday, Friday.

Here it is Saturday. I went to my club field this morning to participate in a "work party" to pick up rocks from the dirt field surrounding the new park flyer/small aircraft runway. While I was up there and before the work started I wanted to try some taxi tests. I wanted to know if this plane had any nasty gyro habits. Well no it doesn't. It seems to track fairly well straight. I didn't originally plan to, but I couldn't resist and so I gave her the maiden flight this morning.

I set the CG per the suggested amount on Maxfords website, and I ended up with an aft CG. So the plane was a bit squirelly at first, and I had to fly with down elevator input. After a while I got it steady enough to move my left hand over to the right trim button and feed in a little down elevator and this made the plane behave better. I flew for about 5 minutes and then tried to land it. I didn't want to snap roll into a stall so I kept my speed up, and that made it hard to land on what seems like a short runway, lol. So I made a couple of attempts, extending my base and final legs and finally got it down on the runway. I did run out of room at the very end and because the concrete runway is brand new there is still a large shoulder, or curb, dropoff, whatever so I ran off it and the plane tipped onto its nose. No damage other than a slight scrape on the chin.

Post maiden flight:





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Old 11-24-2008, 10:38 PM
  #28  
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I installed the wire rigging to the undercarriage today. I first silver soldered the wires to the struts at the axle end, and I made each piece long enough so that I could pull it tight through the fuselage end and hold it while soldering. It came out okay. Not as tight as I would like but good enough for guv'mint work.







After the maiden flight last Saturday I needed to adjust the CG forward and so I had to add some dead weight. I tried several sizes of fishing weights and finally found I needed 1.5oz to balance it where I wanted.





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Old 11-25-2008, 03:27 AM
  #29  
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Are those wings flat on both sides? It would make building alot simpler and cheaper if I don't need airfoil shape to fly.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:08 AM
  #30  
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The wings on this model are indeed airfoil shape.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:52 PM
  #31  
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I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

I just finished installing the rigging to the wings. It really makes a difference in strength, even on the model. Before, when I was holding the plane up at the wingtips to check the CG the wing would bow quite a bit. Now it does not bow at all.

In the meantime I ordered larger wheels from Williams Bros because it just doesn't look right. And another pilot so that I can get the goggles I lost.

I expect my package from Tower to arrive tomorrow, so I will make new axles and paint the wheels and mount them and then get some new photos.
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Old 12-03-2008, 04:19 AM
  #32  
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My package arrived today. I have painted the new wheels. I still need to make the axles. And my pilot finally has his goggles!
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:27 AM
  #33  
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Nice goggles! Is that a custom jobbie?
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:16 AM
  #34  
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Thanks. Those are the goggles that come in the Williams Bros pilot kit.
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:33 PM
  #35  
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I have installed the new axles and larger wheels. It looks much better now. I also took some pics trying to highlight the flying wires in the sun.
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:08 AM
  #36  
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Do you have room to print this engine and mount under the cowl?
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:22 AM
  #37  
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Wow! That is a great picture!

What about the air that is normally cooling the brushless motor? I would hate to burn it up by blocking it?
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:01 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Kmot View Post
Wow! That is a great picture!

What about the air that is normally cooling the brushless motor? I would hate to burn it up by blocking it?
Thats depends on how much load you have on the motor. The Camel you see here has no cooling holes and the motor runs cool. It has 6 nimh cell and an 11x8 prop. My Albatros has a spinner on the front and no cooling holes. The motor runs cool on 2s with 9x7 prop. Both of these planes fly close to full throtle which means there is very little extra power but just enough to get out of trouble. I only have one WW1 plane that flys on 3s but I have flown it on 2s. On 3s it fly most of the time at half throtle or less. Usally with it I take off full throtle and cut to half as soon as it is above the trees.
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:04 AM
  #39  
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Cut the bits out between the cylinders to allow air flow. She looks way better with the new wheels, nice one.

Steve
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:07 PM
  #40  
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Thanks degreen, makes sense to me.
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:39 AM
  #41  
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Yeah, Degreen is right. Put that radial up front and your great looking plane will be even better!!! Steve
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:14 AM
  #42  
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If you print the engine with a lazer printer it will be water proof. If you use an inkjet and fly in the morning when the dew is on like I do you will need to water proof the print.
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Old 12-05-2008, 04:57 AM
  #43  
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Hi,
I used an inkjet printer for a cockpit dash, and to waterproof it I used 2" wide clear packing tape to cover it, it also gave it a stiffer finish. -Reuben
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Old 12-05-2008, 06:03 AM
  #44  
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I'm gonna check it out and see if it will work. Thanks guys!
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:51 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by reuben199 View Post
Hi,
I used an inkjet printer for a cockpit dash, and to waterproof it I used 2" wide clear packing tape to cover it, it also gave it a stiffer finish. -Reuben
I haven't had much luck making the inkjet water proof by spraying with clear but I found covering with clear packing tape as you did works. Someone sent me a URL about a spray inkjet water proofing in England. I haven't check to see if it can be bought in the states. My wife has a photo printer that make good water proof prints but it only prints 4x6. I been using it by printing what I want in peices and putting back together on the plane.
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:37 PM
  #46  
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Heres one in motion that was going round (if you'll pardon the pun) RC Groups a while back.

Steve
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:41 AM
  #47  
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GWS orange nylon props do not like to be boiled in water. In fact they don't really like 160F water either.

I tried to dye my orange props black. The first prop I left in the pan of water till it started to boil and then turned the flame down to simmer. The prop tips curled up a bit.

Next prop I submerged into the 160 dye bath and it just barely curled the tips. It's still usable. But it did not take the dye very well. It just looks sooty.

The first prop actually turned a nice mahogany sort of brown. It would have been a real nice prop to use on a WWI plane.
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:16 PM
  #48  
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Kmot, try drybrushing flat brown paint over your orange props. The effect is actually pretty convincing!! Just barely have any paint in your brush. I usually brush it on a paper towel till almost all the paint is off the brush. then just start dragging the brush lengthwise down the prop blades till you get the "grain" you want. Steve
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:03 PM
  #49  
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Thanks for the tip, Ace. I will try that on my next orange prop. As for the current usable prop I already did a full paint job on it last night.
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Last edited by Kmot; 12-06-2008 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Added pictures of painted propeller and pilot.
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Old 12-07-2008, 12:28 AM
  #50  
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I use brown and black marking pens to make my props look wood grain and lamanated. I don't try to make them look excate scale but just hide the orange look.
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