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E-flite Ultimate 20-300 10 ARF

Old 10-17-2008, 07:14 PM
  #1  
caltrop
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Default E-flite Ultimate 20-300 10 ARF

Anyone got one of these yet?

I got the Great Planes Electrifly Ultimate, it's a bit smaller than the E-flite Ultimate.

Both the Great Planes & E-flite look a lot a like. Both have the thin wing chord but the E-flite looks a bit longer in the fuselage than the Great Planes.

E-flite had an Ultimate a couple of years back but I heard bad things about it. Hopefully now Horizon has fixed the problems in this new version.

Maybe I'll get one of these new E-flite's next year sometime.
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Old 11-03-2008, 08:06 AM
  #2  
werew
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Just finished assembling one and I like it thus far. Only parts that uses epoxy in the assembly is the elevator half jointer wire. Canopy is supposed to be glued on w/ canopy glue, but i'm just going to tape mine.

I don't know how this ultimate is going to fly yet but I assume it'll fly just like most Ultimate's... like it's on rails. It's a solid airframe.

Seems like the wing area is slightly larger than GP's. The fuse/cowl is fat/wide. Pretty cool looking bird all in all.

Only negative thing to date is the plastic lower wing/fuse fairings are of VERY thin plastic. TIP: Pre-screw/thread all plastic hardpoints before assembling wing and cowl onto fuselage. The rest of it just fell right together for me.

I'm using the Power10, CC45 ESC, 2100mah batts, HS65mg servos and an APC 12x6e prop.

I might switch back to the recommended Spektrum S75's once I get mine rebuilt, stripped 3 out in my Reactor Bipe. The spektrums are really nice servos, precise and strong... but the gears won't hold up to a Reactor Bipe's gigantic control surfaces and 3d throws.
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Old 11-12-2008, 03:43 AM
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Still haven't flown it yet, i'll post more when it's been maidened.
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Old 11-27-2008, 09:16 PM
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ededge2002
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have you flown it yet with the power10 werew? i have a p10 sitting here and ive looked at this plane a few times..... could you weigh yours without battery but everything else? look forward to your report
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Old 11-28-2008, 03:01 AM
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werew
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Edge,
I don't have a scale to weigh mine but by hand, it's weight seems identical to my Reactor Bipe.

I think my Phoenix 45 ESC is too much for the Power10 motor. I just received a Thunderbird 36 that should work great with the P10.

It's maiden will hopefully be sometime soon, whenever the weather breaks and I have a day off.

Can't wait! I'll report in as soon as I get the chance to maiden it. Keep in mind i'm at 4,000 ft above sea level. I'm going to use FP EVO 25 2170's and one TP 15C 2100mah and a 12x6e APC prop. I know it won't 3d like my Reactor Bipe, but it should fly like it's on rails.

CG seems to be spot on with manual's component placement, with FP EVO25 2170, 65mg's... slightly tips to nose.
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Old 11-28-2008, 03:11 AM
  #6  
ededge2002
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so your saying the reactor 3d's well? what power set up do you have in that? think the power10 would work in it?
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Old 11-28-2008, 04:44 AM
  #7  
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The power10 would work really well in a Reactor Bipe, my Himax motor has just a tick more "honk" to it.

If you want 3d, get the Reactor Bipe. I guarantee the Ultimate won't 3d ANYTHING like the Reactor will. 600in(reactor bipe) VS 473.5in(ultimate) wing area and the Reactor is a tick lighter. 33% of the Reactor's wing chord is Aileron, relative to it's other control surfaces, the Reactor is aptly named... it REACTS!

Phoenix 45, Himax HC3516-1130, 11x7e APC and hitec 65mg's. My Himax can take a little bit more amperage than the Power10. I can't say 1rst hand if the difference is noteworthy over the power10, I can only say the Himax works very well

Motor, ESC and batteries never got hot with the 11x7 and my flight times are 7-9 minutes with plenty of life left in the batteries. Vertical pullout from hover is very strong.

The 65mg's are a must, which i learned the hard way. The control surfaces are huge on this plane and plastic geared servos will strip quickly. Hitec's HB Karbonite geared servos (65's and 56's) might last a little longer than nylon white gears, but eventually will strip out.

Wing surface area is hugeee and it floats incredibly well. I was floating and hovering it on it's maiden flight. It's 3rd flight I stripped 3 servos when I entered into a hover from an aggressive wall about 5 feet off the deck. Elevator and Aileron servos all stripped out. What made this worse is I was warned about this by a friend at the field who had the same thing happen to him, he used the recommended FUT 3154's and they all stripped out on him. He switched to 65mg's and not a single problem since.


The Reactor Bipe is like the F1 of small electric bipes. Dial in extra expo on it's maiden. 5-7 more than what's recommended or it might be a handful.
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Old 11-28-2008, 05:22 PM
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Default Want One

I still want an E-flite version of the Ultimate. I have the Great Planes Ultimate sitting on the work bench in pieces; no I didn't crash, it's the way it comes out of the box. The E-flite is a bit bigger than the GP version. The GP only uses a Park 450 (no 3D but I have one laying around) or 480 (got snatched for the 2.9M hotliner glider project) motor. The Power 10 is the next step up from the 480.

I assume that the E-flite is easier to put together but that would not be fun during the winter months. GP ARF's are actual kits; the wings are covered but there is a bunch more assembly than an E-flite.
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Old 11-28-2008, 08:32 PM
  #9  
werew
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Cal,
My friend has a GP Ultimate and I think the Eflite is much better looking and its definitely bigger. The most labor intensive part of assembly is installing the horizontal stab.

I used a Dubros small plastic tailwheel instead of what came with my Ultimate. It looks more scale and I had it laying around... the original tailwheel doesn't look as "scale".
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:36 PM
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Default Tail Wheels

The GP ultimate has no tail wheel so I'm adding one.

My E-flite mini Ultra Stick also had no tail so I added one.

The E-flite Ultimate and the Ultra Stick 25 have tail wheels so I don't understand why the slightly smaller planes don't have tail wheels as well.
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Old 12-27-2008, 02:22 AM
  #11  
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i got the plane all assembled and the electronics in it but while i was gluing the horizontal stabilizer (elevator) it fell and glued wrong (kinda off center) unfortunately i left the room while this happened and i am now looking to cut it out and buy a new tail so that i can fix this issue, anyone know where i can get a replacement tail? or anything? or do you think that it will not cause that much of an issue with it being a little bit off centered?? what do you guys think??? i posted some pictures on my photo gallery so that you could see what i was talking about, also when it fell it caused a little bit of damage on the leading edge, but i repaired that as best i could.
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:47 AM
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ededge2002
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man that is sad..... is the stab repaired? looks a little damaged in the photos. if its finished i would try flying it as is just to see how much trouble it causes..... if it loops lopsided or has other problems looks like you would need to remove it.
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Old 12-27-2008, 05:50 AM
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Blurkx777
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the damage is minor and its i glued another piece of thin balsa wood in the fail after i cut the mona cote and all but its not going to be a breaking point even it that was the first thing to hit the ground. i used super thin ca and kinda loaded it up, but that didnt change the cg at all. since i work on a normal aircraft every day i know that when a part is installed wrong or anything like that it can really mess up alot for the larger scale planes but you think that it shouldnt have any affect on it? i can see that it will play some role in it due to the fact that the right side is going to be hitting the air first and might force it to roll or yaw funny.
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Old 12-29-2008, 06:46 PM
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Default Ultimate 20-300

I have built and finally flown this plane, it is sweet. I am however having a bit of a power problem with it. I have an e-flight power 15 on it with a 12x6 prop, running a ss-45 electrify 45 amp speed controller with a 2200 mAh flightpower 20c battery with 50c burst. I only get 4 minutes of flight time out of it. I hooked the watt meter up and at full throttle it was only pulling 280 watts. Somthing seemed strange as my little extra with a 480 is pulling almost 300 watts. Is it possible that my esc is too much? I bought some 18.5v 4000mAh batteries to see if they will help with the flight time, I will let you know

Crash
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:15 PM
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Build Review Too Much Prop & Other Stuff

Try a lower pitch prop. A 12x3.8 should work for 3D.

When you hover it takes a lot of power to keep it up. With a 12x6 it will strain your engine and speed controller. A lower pitch prop will keep the RPM up and provide plenty of power for hanging by the prop.

Of course a low pitch prop will not do the fast aerobatics, you will have to change back to the 12x6 when you want speed.

Here's the APC props I would use:
LP12060E 12x6 thin electric
LP12038SF 12x3.8 slow flyer
LP11038SF 11x3.8 slow flyer (this would give even more power)

Could be a bad speed controller or motor. Bad ESC's have happened a lot recently with me.

The Power 15 motor is rated up to a 4S LiPo so that alone could account for the lower wattage. That's a whole 3.7v less with a 3S battery. You might want to get a 4S LiPo for your plane. That will increase the power and speed of the motor but then again you're adding more weight.

Using the recommended Power 10 motor would lighten things up a bit using less power. A Power 15 motor & 12x6 prop might be too much for the Ultimate.

Check your wiring too. Are you using a heavy enough wire? Bad solder joints?

Then there's always a bad battery. If the battery has sat for a while it will not put out as much. LiPo's get lazy after sitting for a long time but after a couple of flights they recover.

Last edited by caltrop; 12-29-2008 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 09:52 PM
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ededge2002
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ok some things in the above just are not right.... the power15 should NEVER be used with a sf prop. the rpm's of it would go over the limits set out by apc.
"Slow Flyer props
Maximum RPM=65,000/prop diameter (inches)"
as the power15 is a lower rpm/volt than the power10 it is going to take more prop to get smilar performance but with advantages of a bigger prop disk area. going to a 13x6.5 would add a ton more thrust and would be more in line with what the 15 needs on 3s. might even look at the 14x7 on 3s. you might have short flight time because you have to keep the throttle high just to create the amount of thrust to keep the plane in the air with too small of a prop.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:00 AM
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Default Props

I've always been told to use a lower pitch prop for 3D. It's like the low gear on your car or whatever.

Sorry but I did not know the exact RPM limitations for APC SF props but since standard APC electric props don't go that low on pitch I end up using SF anyway. I did figure that SF props can't take as much as a regular prop. I have yet to have a prop fly apart going over the rated RPM. I don't go way over the rated RPM but I do push the limits of the SF props sometimes. APC & E-flite props can take a little excess RPM.

E-flite even does this with the PNP mini Ultra Stick which has a 450 motor that turns nearly 10,000 RPM and uses a 10x7 SF prop. Using APC's rating you should not go any higher than 6,500 RPM. E-flite is going almost 3,500 RPM over the APC rating. And since I feel that APC is a better prop I don't think much about going a little over the rated RPM. Ratings for the most part are very conservative for legal reasons.

The first thing I did with my Stick was put a standard APC prop on it. Later I got a larger motor and bigger prop.

Unless you're nutz you don't run full throttle all the time anyway. Doing 3D is only using about 2/3 throttle anyway.

If you put too big of a prop with too much pitch on an electric motor you're going to burn it up. I once got a motor so hot it would blister your fingers. I ended up putting a smaller prop on it and it quit overheating.

I'm doing a GP Ultimate right now and I'm going to use a 10x3.8 SF prop and maybe a 10x5 standard for 3D. When I want to go fast and I'll put one of my old mini Ultra Stick 10x7 props on it but that is not what the Ultimate is all about. Now the Stick - that's meant to be a faster plane.

Whatever - it's your plane and you can do whatever you want with it. I was just answering some questions for someone needing help with 3D.
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Old 02-07-2009, 11:25 PM
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benovisoff
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I have flown the eflite one. Believe, they used a 15 in the vid. It is way underpowered with a 10. It needs a 15 to be able to hover. The 10 will fly it like an easystar.
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:19 AM
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cyoung450
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Glad I found this thread good information here I am interested in getting an electric bipe in this size and I have been look at he World Models which I have already decided against my next choice was the GP Ultimate, but now I see this EFlite Ultimate and it looks much better. The reactor looks good too now the big question is what power system to buy for it? I have a 40ampESC already and some 2100 3s lipos. What motor and prop? I will be following this thread for sure, thanks for all the info.

Cy
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:22 AM
  #20  
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for the ultimate, I am a real power freak, so for me at least the fifteen. That power15 will really be pushing that 40 amp esc, I think its about a 41 amp motor normallly. A power 10 will do ok, you can just put a bigger prop on it because it can only pull up to 37 amps
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Old 02-19-2009, 10:17 AM
  #21  
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Build Review FYI

Just thought I'd throw this in...

The Multiplex Gemini looks a lot like an Ultimate. It's a foamie though with a 36" wingspan and 30oz fully loaded. I've heard good about multiplex.

-

The GP Ultimate, that I am currently building, has terrible covering & I've heard of people snapping the elevators off in flite. E-flite products have a much better covering and I like Ultracote. And like most planes I am using a bigger than recommended motor. That's why I quit getting RTF/PNP and go with the ARF kit.

You would think that a plane that is designed to do 3D would specify the right motor. According to my calculations the Power 10 should do 3D with the Ultimate, barely. So going with a Power 15 would be better. The power 15 specs state a constant 34A with a burst of 42A so a 40A ESC will work. I run a Park 480 motor with a constant 22A & a burst of 28A using a 25A ESC and don't have any problems.
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:02 PM
  #22  
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Yes I am not sure why the manufacturers do that with the motor specs, even in the glo and gas stuff, same thing always rated for what will just fly it. They should have both sport and 3D specs listed on kits. I am a 3D flyer so I will be looking at an overated power system the 15 seems to be the ticket. What prop do you use?

Thanks for all the replies keep them coming! I think I will go down to my local LHS and pick one of these up I may start a build thread when I get it.

Thanks,
Conrad
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Old 02-23-2009, 04:20 PM
  #23  
benovisoff
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I do 12X8. but for more vertical and 3d power than speed, I would go 13X4. even a 12X6 maybe. A power 10 will make it a slow stick. Then again, my slowstick has a power 10 on it. They put down what barely flies so you will be unsatisfied and buy another bigger motor. I always go at least one motor size bigger with everything. Except the t-28, that is already perfect.
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:52 AM
  #24  
j4ck4
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Default 3d ultimate

Hey guys

I picked up a used 28" ultimate Saturday at a swapmeet. Bought an apc 11x3.8 prop today, this bird has a razor rz2500 on it. Wondering what to expect as far as 3d capability when I get a rx for it.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:02 PM
  #25  
rich.c
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Default Warped wing?

Hi All,

New to WattFlyer and have been busy browsing through all the interesting threads. I've been flying for a while now and have a few aircraft in my hangar, mostly scale stuff.

I bought an e-flite ultimate before christmas because I wanted to give 3D ago and so far the build has gone really well. I've come to the point where I'm installing the rear stabilizer and I have a question to ask before I carry on and make a mistake!

The rear stabilzer is set equal distances either side of the fueslage and pushed all the way forward in the slot. However, the distance between the wing tip and stabilzer tip on the right side is a few millimetres more than the left (it's about 4mm more). I can't get these to be equal unless I move the rear stabilzer to be off-set on one side. I can't move the front wings because they are fixed by pre-drilled holes.

My first question is is this because the front wings are slightly warped? Or maybe the rear stabilizer itself?

Second, will a few mm out make a noticable difference to the aircraft in flight?



Thanks for the help guys. Really enjoying the forum - will use it as a reference point many times in the future I'm sure!

Rich
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