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Great Planes Fokker Dr-1 ARF : Did I bite off more than I can chew?

Old 08-20-2010, 04:55 AM
  #26  
Redlegwolf08
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Old 08-20-2010, 04:57 AM
  #27  
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Default Hinges picture?

So, is something wrong here? Should I have six of the larger hinges?
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:31 PM
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I believe the big one is for the rudder.If I remember correctly the others break apart. They are pretty small but work fine. B
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:24 PM
  #29  
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Yep, looks right.
Before glueing in, I like to bend the hinge back and forth a few times. Puts less strain on servos.
Oh, I mean actually bend all the way back on itself. Crease it.
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:50 AM
  #30  
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Default Hinges

That's why I use 3.5 sloppy disc hinges Boys. Nothing to bend or mess with. Wick the glue in and she's done. I use these hinges on just about everything. Marty
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Old 08-22-2010, 12:52 AM
  #31  
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Default Pics

Any pics yet redleg? Marty
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:16 AM
  #32  
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Subscribed. This Dr1 is next on my list.

I also cut apart floppy disc material to use as hinge material, and I've never had one fail. It's good stuff.
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:42 AM
  #33  
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I use the floppy hinge too. If there is a weak spot, such as the lower part of a foam rudder where the control horn is mounted I will run clear packing tape over the rudder and onto the fuselage. The clear tape acts as a hinge too.
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:29 AM
  #34  
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Been a day full of 'tripes'. Am presently trying to get a workshop together in a tiny space compared to my last house - as in, one small bedroom with models sharing with most of our bike collection - three bikes, several sets of spare wheels, tools, etc - as opposed to the last house where I annexed the entire basement and set up a seperate regime down below.

Anyway, tidying up 'the files' - years of ancient mags since 1982, mostly - and a book on the Fokker DR1 falls out of a mag box. Stuffed in there is a Model Aviation mag review that mostly diddled around the GP SE5 but mentioned the DR1.

Unfortunately, I didn't keep the Model Aviation scale columns - three or four, published some year or so back - that detailed ripping off the generic red Monokote and re-doing it in lighter covering and with better detailing. All this DR1 stuff, followed by finding this thread, has me thinking that I could 'test drive' my new shop by BARFing (Buying an Almost Ready to Fix ) and making it different to the stock red.

Which Richtofen never flew, it seems...

Mostly, ripping off the heavy covering, losing the metal pushrods for pull-pull in scale-ish locations, making sure its as superbly assembled as they say and then re-covering and finishing in something lighter with a scale finish.

There's one with white and black stripes at 45 deg over the entire aircraft. White Litespan will deal with base colour and light weight, matte black hobby enamel and masking tape will deal with the rest.

Nothing too crazy, it's not that scale after all. Which is good - I've seen real scale ones fly. You want real excitement - make the rudder scale sized Landing one like that will make you really sweat. I've seen a 60" really nice scale one fly - UK scale plan, probably RCM&E, a VK kit and Dave Hurrell's stunning 1/5th (RC Model World plan) - all of them tended to end most landing runs inverted...

GP's itty bitty one - re-inforce the top of the top wing. It's gonna need it sooner or later.

Seems AMA haven't gotten any issues past 2000 into their digital archives yet. There goes my sniff at those conversion articles, wish I'd thought to keep them.

Regards

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Old 08-31-2010, 03:57 AM
  #35  
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Exclamation Top wing trouble...

Time for another laugh everybody. I more or less assembled the plane--i.e., the servos are all working except for the ailerons. In the process of installing the y harness in the top wing, I effectively destroyed it, but was then able to see that the equipment works. Needless to say, I bought a new top wing.

I do not understand two things:
1. when it says to use heat shrink tubing to secure the ailerons...how do you do that? Where is the tubing supposed to go?

2. I don't understand how to tie the ailerons on the string and get it through without breaking the balsa wood? In order to do it (still breaking some) I ended up cutting the monokote off to see what I was doing. I would like to do my second top wing correctly, but could not understand the directions. I was too eager to complete the project.

Other notes:

-I used the S3107 servos and found them too big to plug into the receiver, so I used some wire cutters to snip off a bit of plastic on this side and they fit. Was that okay?
-Some CA dripped onto my monokote. Do I have to live with a little white residue on the monokote, or is there a way to remove it without damaging the covering?



Again, thanks for all your patience and advice. This plane is a blast, but without a top wing...it's going nowhere.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:58 PM
  #36  
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To get the servo wires thru, I like to use a tiny bit of masking tape or scotch tape to jake it smooth from the plug to the string. The real trick though is to twist the servo wire (rotate the servo multiple times while gently pulling the string. the twisting will help it line up every 180 degrees.

As far as the CA on the monokote - been there. It stinks. I was SO mad on my first SE5 when I did that.

Get yourself a spray can of Matte or Flat clear spray, and LIGHTLY coat the whole plane. You won't notice the CA nearly as much, and the plane won't look so much like a kids toy. (Krylon works, or some thing from a craft store).
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:02 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Redlegwolf08 View Post
Time for another laugh everybody. I more or less assembled the plane--i.e., the servos are all working except for the ailerons. In the process of installing the y harness in the top wing, I effectively destroyed it, but was then able to see that the equipment works. Needless to say, I bought a new top wing.

I do not understand two things:
1. when it says to use heat shrink tubing to secure the ailerons...how do you do that? Where is the tubing supposed to go?

2. I don't understand how to tie the ailerons on the string and get it through without breaking the balsa wood? In order to do it (still breaking some) I ended up cutting the monokote off to see what I was doing. I would like to do my second top wing correctly, but could not understand the directions. I was too eager to complete the project.

Other notes:

-I used the S3107 servos and found them too big to plug into the receiver, so I used some wire cutters to snip off a bit of plastic on this side and they fit. Was that okay?
-Some CA dripped onto my monokote. Do I have to live with a little white residue on the monokote, or is there a way to remove it without damaging the covering?



Again, thanks for all your patience and advice. This plane is a blast, but without a top wing...it's going nowhere.
Non-dilute acetone, followed quickly by 90% iso alcohol (for the plane) works great for me.
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:52 AM
  #38  
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Default As if I haven't provided everyone with enough laughing material...



Alright...so in addition to everything else. You can see in earlier photos that I took my rimfire right out of the box and mounted in behind the firewall in accordance with the Fokker Dr-1 directions. I was screwing around waiting for my replacement top wing to come in and decided to install the collet prop adapter and prop. I did so, and when I turned on the motor, it fell off--nothing was really holding it on.

In the picture above I have a collet prop type adapter: prop shaft, prop shaft retainer, the prop, the prop washer, and the prop nut.

The motor itself--the bent small thing is the c clip...did I just ruin the motor removing it and bending it? and a small washer that came off behind it. I thought maybe I needed to remove the set screws that lock the motor shaft to the front endbell and try to side it out farther--my next step was to try and remove the set screw in the brass collar and remove it (the brass collar). The directions don't really talk about any of this.

One problem, I can't seem to remove/loosen the set screws. I tried alan wrenches, but I can't seem to find one small enough around here. Do they come smaller, is there a trick? Do I need to remove the brass collar at all? How do I make my prop stay on my motor?

SO...are you rolling on the floor laughing? Did I make anyone's day? Appreciate all the help and feedback guys. My soldiers are all laughing because they went ahead and purchased corsairs rtf as their next planes...I'm still struggling, and in need of guidance.

Wolf.
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Old 09-01-2010, 12:19 PM
  #39  
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You need to remove the collar,hit the hardware store,they should have small allen wrench sets. Once you remove the collar the collet will slip down far enough to get a good bite,just make sure its screwed down tight. You can order a replacement motor shaft from Tower Hobbies for about $3 ,it comes with the clips that you bent.Good luck,let us know if you need further assistance. Brutus
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:24 PM
  #40  
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As Brutus251 said, the motor is not ruined.

Worst case scenario -- you contact the motor manufacturer, and pay $5 (my estimate) for a new "c-clip". The motor will be fine.
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Old 09-01-2010, 02:11 PM
  #41  
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Some hardware or auto part stores actually sell these c clips: it's hit or miss.
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:46 PM
  #42  
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Default C clip

I think I have some. Give me the Outside Diameter on the shaft and I'll send you some. Marty
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:02 PM
  #43  
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Appreciate the feedback all-already ordered some new c clips (10) for 1.97.... went to the local shop looking for an alan wrench small enough for the brass collar on the motor--they told me if I can't tell them a specific size they can't help. It's not on the rimfire directions anywhere, anyone know what size it takes? New wing should be here soon, appreciate the advice, but still not quite getting the servo wire threading...
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Old 09-05-2010, 01:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Redlegwolf08 View Post
went to the local shop looking for an alan wrench small enough for the brass collar on the motor--they told me if I can't tell them a specific size they can't help.
UGH! This is my biggest "pet peeve" with the Local Hobby Shops these days. If you were to bring this question to my store, my response would be, "Bring me the parts, and we'll work on it together until we fix it."

Sorry to vent -- I just had to throw that on the table!

My answer to your dilemma -- I've always used needle nose pliers, and I've always been successful. Give it a try!

Guy
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:41 PM
  #45  
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Alright! Status update:

My new wing came in--installed the ailerons, waiting on more help from the forum before I destroy it again installing those wires.

My 1SG had some small wrenches, and one of them fit the motor. --Moving forwards!

Wolf
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:59 PM
  #46  
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Give me a couple of hours and Ill email you the pics. I told you about in the PM. Brutus
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:10 AM
  #47  
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Default Crappy Pic.

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ID:	135185I hope this crappy drawing explaines what I said in the PM,if not Ill try to draw a better pic. just let me know. Thanks. Brutus
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:13 AM
  #48  
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Default Still a little in the dark

Brutus, that makes sense for straightening it out, but:

1. I still don't see how the entire y connector can get pulled through and link up on the other side. So, I have the y harness and the two servos that need to all make it together in there somehow. Do they all go through one side? Because I don't see how that's physically possible.

2. The string is already connected on both sides, am I supposed to cut one side, and pull it through to the other side with the wires attached?
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:50 AM
  #49  
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What you have to do is pull one wire up to the access hole,pull it thru the hole and tape it to the outside of the wing,then pull the other side thru to the access hole then pull that one thru. Then hook both wires up to the y connector and just push the excess wire up into the wing so there is only the lead from the y connector left to plug into the receiver. I dont have the plane in front of me so I dont know how long the connector has to be.Ideally you want just the wire from the y connector sticking out from the wing but as I said I dont know how long the one you have is.Its no big deal if the other extensions hang out too but it looks sloppy and will add drag.Brutus
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Old 09-08-2010, 04:00 AM
  #50  
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okay, that makes more sense to me; I was trying with the whole y connector--going to see if I can make this happen.
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