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Bullet Proof Your Spektrum 2.4 Radio

Old 10-06-2010, 10:47 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
I totally Agree with that its not the receiver, but the power driving the receiver is the problem, I see where the capacitor could help, and i see where a UBEC is a must for 2.4, this was a very interesting Thread, I know I learned a Lot, I see where using a UBEC and a Capacitor together will Give you a Bullet proof 2.4 Radio Take care and Fave fun, Chellie
Hi Chellie,

While I agree that running both a UBEC and adding a Capacitor will help protect against a brownout situation, it certainly will not make your radio system "bulletproof", and I think it may be somewhat dangerous to make such a statement. No RF system is bulletproof. There are always ways to swamp an RF band and make a receiver setup fail, or to have poor power to the receiver.

At one time Spektrum was saying their AR9000 system with satellite RXs was "bulletproof". They eventually saw the error of their ways and removed that statement from their website. But the funny thing is, it is still listed that way on their receivers page, but not on the individual AR9000 page like it used to be (scroll down to the AR9000 listing, then click on it).

http://www.spektrumrc.com/DSM/Produc...Receivers.aspx

Advertising any RF system as "bulletproof" is dangerous and opens a company up to legal ramifications.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:42 PM
  #52  
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I would imagine the Army Predator drones are close to bullet proof but I bet they cost quite a bit more than any of us would be willing to pay.
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:10 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by smokejohnson View Post
I would imagine the Army Predator drones are close to bullet proof but I bet they cost quite a bit more than any of us would be willing to pay.
That would be the "Air Force" predator drones, specifically the USAF 11th and 15th Reconnaissance Squadrons and they are controlled by secure satellite links.

But yeah, pretty close to bullet proof!
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:44 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by crxmanpat View Post
Hi Chellie,

While I agree that running both a UBEC and adding a Capacitor will help protect against a brownout situation, it certainly will not make your radio system "bulletproof", and I think it may be somewhat dangerous to make such a statement. No RF system is bulletproof. There are always ways to swamp an RF band and make a receiver setup fail, or to have poor power to the receiver.

At one time Spektrum was saying their AR9000 system with satellite RXs was "bulletproof". They eventually saw the error of their ways and removed that statement from their website. But the funny thing is, it is still listed that way on their receivers page, but not on the individual AR9000 page like it used to be (scroll down to the AR9000 listing, then click on it).

http://www.spektrumrc.com/DSM/Produc...Receivers.aspx

Advertising any RF system as "bulletproof" is dangerous and opens a company up to legal ramifications.
Hi Pat I agree somewhat with what your saying, But Bullet Proof In This Thread is the Opinion of the Thread Starter, and not the MFG. and it is a far Cry A Heck of a lot better than not using a ubec and capacitor at all and I strongly feel that 99% of the planes that use a 2.4 spectrum radio system will benefite from the use of the Capacitor and a UBEC and a Lot of Modelers will Save their Plane and a lot of time and Money and the Planes/Helis will be Safer to operate, infact, the Heli that hit that girl on the head, if it was equiped with a ubec and capacitor, that Accident May have never of Happened, 2.4 radio or no not, So IMHO, Bullet Proof is my Humble Opinion, and Safety is the Name of the Game, So i feel Good if I am able to Help other RCrs to Help make their RC Aircraft Safer to use and help to prevent an Accident from a radio Brownout that may harm someone, by informing them that there are measures that can be taken to make their aircraft Safer to Use and Operate by using a Capacitor and a UBEC, Again this is My Opinion and I think it is a Darn Good One Take care and Have fun, Chellie

Last edited by CHELLIE; 10-07-2010 at 03:59 AM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 06:44 AM
  #55  
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Chellie... Do you fly 2.4?

This thread reminds me of a quote I often use:

"It has to be true. I saw it on the Internet."

As others have said, NO radio system is bulletproof. NONE. Never happen. It cannot. It is reckless and irresponsible for anybody to say such a thing. We all know all RC advertisers are 100% honest right?

It cannot be said enough. UBECs and good wiring will go further in making a system resilient.

One thing that seems to be getting missed is these are designed for RC cars running 4 cell (4.8V NIxx) main packs. Not 7.4V and greater lipo. The cars operate closer to the edge of safe voltage range and are on electrically noisy track surfaces (carpet). Also, for a cap to be able to store enough power to fill in the dips in voltage and current it would be prohibitively expensive weight (and price maybe) wise to carry aloft.

Is there any harm in using this item? No. (other than weight, maybe)

Is it a tool to "bulletproof" your radio? No fracking way.
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:48 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Twmaster View Post
Chellie... Do you fly 2.4?

This thread reminds me of a quote I often use:

"It has to be true. I saw it on the Internet."

As others have said, NO radio system is bulletproof. NONE. Never happen. It cannot. It is reckless and irresponsible for anybody to say such a thing. We all know all RC advertisers are 100% honest right?

It cannot be said enough. UBECs and good wiring will go further in making a system resilient.

One thing that seems to be getting missed is these are designed for RC cars running 4 cell (4.8V NIxx) main packs. Not 7.4V and greater lipo. The cars operate closer to the edge of safe voltage range and are on electrically noisy track surfaces (carpet). Also, for a cap to be able to store enough power to fill in the dips in voltage and current it would be prohibitively expensive weight (and price maybe) wise to carry aloft.

Is there any harm in using this item? No. (other than weight, maybe)

Is it a tool to "bulletproof" your radio? No fracking way.
Yes I fly 2.4 I have a DX6i and a AR6200 receiver and a AR6000 receiver, I got hit with a brown out that took my plane out, While its true the Capacitor was Made for RC Cars, I hope no one thinks that It cant be used for aircraft too, the Capacitor does not know if its in a Car or Aircraft and it will do its intended Job, prevent a Brownout due to a sudden voltage drop, Simple, and when used with a UBEC its even better at assuring that the receiver gets the voltage it needs so it does not go into a Brown out mode, I am going to get some Capacitors and make my own voltage protectors and use them in conjunction with a UBEC, Its Cheap insurance well worth the $0.50 for the Capacitor Take care, Chellie

Last edited by CHELLIE; 10-08-2010 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:19 PM
  #57  
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How about them put, put boats?
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:00 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by spad View Post
How about them put, put boats?
I am Not sure But i think you can get away with not using the Capacitor and a UBEC on the Pop Pop, Put Put Boats LOL






[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwSplfKL4qQ&feature=player_embedded[/media]
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:03 AM
  #59  
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Yeah, but if it sinks, you may get a brown out.

Or, as one of Clint Eastwood's western characters once said, "You're scaring my donkey."
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:08 AM
  #60  
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No that would be a flame out if it sunk.
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:35 AM
  #61  
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Uh, for the Captain, it's a brown out!
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:16 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by spad View Post
Uh, for the Captain, it's a brown out!
I don't care who you are, that's funny right there!
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:08 PM
  #63  
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I wonder if Foamfighters has tried this one yet?

I bet Dennis V has one!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...16&postcount=6
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:13 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Gohmer View Post
I wonder if Foamfighters has tried this one yet?

I bet Dennis V has one!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...16&postcount=6
Thats Funny LOL, Good One
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:23 PM
  #65  
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i looked at buying one of these back in January for a cub I added flaps to...bought it THEN did some research on it. I don't think it has much use at all when you do the math. It is sitting in a drawer likely to never be used.

i'd like to think it 'can't hurt' to leave it plugged in...but then you have one more electrical component in place that's failure could possibly do hard to the rx. once discharged, it also is drawing power to recharge itself. i'd hate to think that the capacitor that's 'in for good measure' is competing for power with your RX and servos...
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:10 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Gohmer View Post
I wonder if Foamfighters has tried this one yet?

I bet Dennis V has one!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...16&postcount=6
Nope. Not yet!
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Old 11-03-2010, 12:17 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by texasclouds View Post
i looked at buying one of these back in January for a cub I added flaps to...bought it THEN did some research on it. I don't think it has much use at all when you do the math. It is sitting in a drawer likely to never be used.

i'd like to think it 'can't hurt' to leave it plugged in...but then you have one more electrical component in place that's failure could possibly do hard to the rx. once discharged, it also is drawing power to recharge itself. i'd hate to think that the capacitor that's 'in for good measure' is competing for power with your RX and servos...
Send it to me I will take it off your hands Capacitors are great, and very powerful, they can even help you to save up 25% even up to 40% of the power you use in you home too, they are called power savers, there, i did my good deed for the Day Take care, Chellie

http://ezinearticles.com/?How-Power-...Tips&id=229576

http://www.power-save.com/1200.html


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Old 11-03-2010, 02:39 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Send it to me I will take it off your hands Capacitors are great, and very powerful, they can even help you to save up 25% even up to 40% of the power you use in you home too, they are called power savers, there, i did my good deed for the Day Take care, Chellie

http://ezinearticles.com/?How-Power-...Tips&id=229576

http://www.power-save.com/1200.html

Whoa Boy!

Before anyone goes out and spends $299 for one of these, be aware of what you are buying.

They are claiming that they are correcting the "Power Factor" of your electric motors in your home, and actually show the current pulled by a 120 Volt AC motor dropping when the power-saver is turned on.

Well, that is correct. The amperage DOES drop. But what they did not show, is what happened to the "WATTS" pulled by the motor out of your 120 VAC outlet. (AC power is far more complex than DC power when you are dealing with inductive, or capacitive loads) The overall watts will NOT change, with or without the power saver. In fact, the watts, the electrical units you are actually paying for would go up, not by much, but it would go up, perhaps by 0.1% with this power saver.

The ideal power factor for an AC powerline is 1.0. Power factor is defined by the phase angle between the voltage, and current waveshapes. When the voltage and current are exactly in phase, the power factor is defined as 1.0. For a resistive load such as an incandescent light bulb, the power factor of that light bulb will be 1.0. But, electric motors used in your home causes this power factor to swing toward the inductive direction. The actual wattage of the motor does not change, but the current input can increase substantially due to that reactive power. And, that power factor of that motor will vary all over the map as you vary the load on the shaft of that motor.

Power factor correction is a major issue for the electric power generation industry. High value "reactive" power loads causes the utilities power transformers to run warmer than required, causes the power lines them selves to run warmer. This is "Reactive Power", and is NOT energy delivered to your home. And, as such the utility can't charge you for it.

Company I worked for manufactured both the high voltage capacitor banks, and the electronic controls and high voltage switches for the same. The capacitor banks are used to correct the power factor of the power line, counteracting the inductive power factor of the electric motors, transformers and everything else connected to those powerlines. The electronic controls monitored the power factor of the primary high voltage power lines, and switched in and out several capacitor banks in order to control that power factor.

These capacitors were three or four feet high, ran at voltages up to 34,000 volts AC. A typical capacitor bank could have as many as 12 or 15 capacitors in it. Getting across one of them if it still had a charge could be lethal. Which is why they are shipped with a solid bus bar connected as a shorting strip across their terminals.

As for your home, your electric utility meter on the input to your house measures WATTS, or Kilowatts, taking the power factor issue into account. You are NOT paying for this "Reactive" power. This is nothing new, the power factor issues have been known to the electric power companies for a hundred years.

This "reactive" or power factor issue is important enough, that the circuit breaker controls I worked on before retiring showed on its LCD display, the high voltage value, current, power factor, resistive load, reactive load, megawatts, megawatt hours, Megavars, and on and on and on. That control showed a oscilloscope view of any voltage sags due to the fault, as well as the actual three phasefault currents cleared by its attached circuit breaker, and even indicated how many miles downline that fault was. These breakers are capable of clearing 16,000 ampere faults at 34,000 volts three phase. These controls cost over $8,000 each, and its attached three phase circuit breaker could easily run over $15,000.

Last edited by kyleservicetech; 11-03-2010 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 11-03-2010, 06:57 AM
  #69  
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The Power savers are working for a lot of people, I guess they eliminate the spike when things are turned on, I talked to my neighbor across the street, his mother had one installed in her home, and her electric bill went down 25%, she is a happy camper, I purchased one and will be testing it on my home too, nothing ventured nothing gained I will let you know how it works, it has a 100% money back Guarantee, I will Drink to that
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Old 11-03-2010, 01:07 PM
  #70  
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Better start drinking, now.
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
The Power savers are working for a lot of people, I guess they eliminate the spike when things are turned on, I talked to my neighbor across the street, his mother had one installed in her home, and her electric bill went down 25%, she is a happy camper, I purchased one and will be testing it on my home too, nothing ventured nothing gained I will let you know how it works, it has a 100% money back Guarantee, I will Drink to that
Just don't change your normal use of electricity, leave those lights on as usual when you leave the room, if you have an electric water heater, make certain you take the usual 30 minute showers , don't change anything.

And if you do not change anything, I'd suspect your electric bill won't change either. (Before retiring, I did a lot of testing with expensive, accurate Wattmeters on this very thing.)
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:07 PM
  #72  
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That Power saver looks a bit expensive and heavy to use in most of my models. And those 34KV 4 ft high capacitors aren't all that practical either.

So even if they really will bullet proof my Spektrum Rx I think I might give both of them a miss this time .

Steve
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:16 PM
  #73  
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the house capacitor thing sounds like a snake-oil deal to me...
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:29 PM
  #74  
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Kielservicetec knows what he is talking about. Niether the capacitor on your radio nor the power saver for your house will pay off to anyone except the sellers of the "almost works" equipment. The user will pay for a lot more than he will ever get back.
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:09 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Rodneh View Post
Kyleserviceteck knows what he is talking about. Niether the capacitor on your radio nor the power saver for your house will pay off to anyone except the sellers of the "almost works" equipment. The user will pay for a lot more than he will ever get back.
Thanks

I worked directly with this stuff for 44 years before retiring. And taught classes for our customers on our company circuit breakers that had to deal with power factor, inductive loads, capacitive loads, coordination between different circuit breakers on the same power line and so on.

That job took me to just about every state in the USA, and 29 foreign countries over that 44 years. Some of those foreign countries were not very nice, and I did work in more than a few electric power substations that were protected 24 hours a day with military armed with fully loaded automatic weapons.
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