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OhioCombat glassing techniques

Old 07-20-2009, 02:57 AM
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grumman5277
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Default OhioCombat glassing techniques

I have never posted this information here on Wattflyer,and thought I would revise and post some of the relevant information from the old as well as new span specific information . It will cover carbon installation methods as well as numerous materials that I have used to glass wings. They all have their pro's and con's and I will attempt to discuss them as clearly as possible.
Jeremy

I will be adding each method individually so they are intact and explained in as much detail as possible.This I hope will help eliminate confusion and make updates easier. Feel free to as questions.
Jeremy

Last edited by grumman5277; 07-22-2009 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:41 AM
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carbon installation:

The reason for my posting what may be pretty common knowledge is for those who may not know as well as another method some of you may not have used.All of my usages are overkill to some extent and as a result there is never any doubt as to the strength.I install all of my carbon using HOT glue,not low temp. Once installed I seal it in also using hot glue. It simply cannot be removed once this process is used. No strapping tape is needed for strength on a bare wing unless you are protecting the leading edge.

Another commonly used method is PU glue. I do not use this method as it takes way to long to dry as well as becomes brittle over time. It is lighter than hot glue but does not have the same bond as the hot glue.

First my carbon is determined by the wing size , and the sweep of the wing will also play an important role in the final strenght gained. My center spars are usually 2/3 span coverage due to sweep.

22-24 in. spans- two carbon tube/flat span wise about 1/2 -1 in apart.
(usually 1/8 tubes or 1/16 x 1/4 flat)

32-36 in. spans- two carbon tubes down each leading edge and one center spar.
(leading edge - 1/8 tube / center spar - 1/4in.)

42-52 in. spans- two carbon tubes down each leading edge and one or two center spars.
(all tubes used are 1/4in. Two center spars are used on 3-4lb 800-1200watt setups)
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Last edited by grumman5277; 09-11-2009 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:42 AM
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Henry cloth/ asphalt coated:

These are available at different stores. Lowe's carries the asphalt coated and Home depot usually has the yellow epoxy coated and both have a fiberglass based.

These are applied using two different methods.

1. strapping tape method- which is just like reinforcing a wing with strapping tape. I apply span wise first starting at the prop cut out to ensure one long piece. each piece applied after is at least 1/2 in overlap, then once both sides are done I apply a biased layup from the left side trailing edge to the opposite panels leading edge. It forms and x pattern and is applied on both sides.This is then followed up by one piece across the leading edge from tip to tip.This is usually used on heavy 32 in - light 52in wings.

2.one layer application- Similar to the first method but no biased pieces and still uses a leading edge application. This is a little fast and used on smaller 22-32in wings.

Both have been applied using 3m super 90 spray adhesive as well as weld wood contact cement.
The super 90 still has fumes but is a lot less reactive to the foam then weld wood. Depending on the amount applied the weld wood can warp the foam,so care should be taken to place weight on the wing as each side is applied separately.The super 90 will allow all sides to be applied before placing weight on the wing,however the drying time can be as long as 24hrs. The weld wood can be ready to cover or spackle on as little as 1hr if using the asphalt coated. The last con the asphalt coated using weld wood is it makes the whole wing black.

Last edited by grumman5277; 07-22-2009 at 05:16 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:42 AM
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rip stop/interfacing

Both are a little different in weight and both have some cons due to their make up.

The rip stop and interfacing should be applied over a smooth surface to get the best results.

1. spackle
2. poly/water based poly
3. spray adhesive to apply material
4. light sanding/ reapply poly/water based poly.

The cons for both of these is water or water based. The spackle as to be sealed in step 2 and NO reapplication of spackle can be added over the ripstop only. It will bubble up.Both should be applied using 3m 77 or Elmer's craft spray as the material will absorb it unlike 3m90.

The last cons are this are better suited for smaller applications but has been used on light 40in wings. The last is that if a crease is produced most likely its permanent.
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Last edited by grumman5277; 09-11-2009 at 04:27 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:43 AM
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screen material

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=sledgehammer
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Last edited by grumman5277; 09-11-2009 at 04:20 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:18 AM
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finishing/spackle and WBP
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Last edited by grumman5277; 09-11-2009 at 04:11 AM.
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