ParkFlyers Talk about all backyard and parkflyer aircraft here

Parkzone J3 Cub BL

Old 08-03-2008, 04:20 PM
  #26  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by jecchile View Post
HI! groundrushesup...
What kind of paint did you use on the foam?, Cowl?.
Thanks.
Oh, nothing special really. First was a light coat of Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter, which is great for sticking enamels to plastics - and on top of that a light coat of white primer, then a light coat of white Krylon semi-gloss. The nose was dark blue I had left over from a can of DupliColor spray, nothing special there, but I did use the adhesion promoter again because of the plastic's inherent flexibility. I hit the underside of the fuse and the wing with some Krylon Camouflage Flat Khaki for the "dirty desert airstrip" look. The wheels? they are straight off my other J-3 incarnation, a WW2 L-4 Grasshopper that is in the shop right now.

The decals are clear label paper from the stationery store sealed with some semi-gloss acrylic fixative.

There ya go!
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 09-05-2008, 03:39 AM
  #27  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

SORRY FOR THE DELAY - THANKS...

I got my Cub BL and have it flying great after breaking 2 props... put larger wheels on it and that helped. The engine is more that enough for this plane and flying at 1/2 throtle is all that is needed unless you want to do a loop. It glides well and it is a cinch to land.
I really like it for a toss around airplane. The radio has performed well also so I have not changed the receiver to my Hitec radio.
jecchile is offline  
Old 09-05-2008, 03:46 AM
  #28  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

HI! groundrushesup...
I have another question for you... I saw where you installed an AR6100 receiver in your modified CUB... what about range in this receiver?... I have been told that it is less than 1000' and some others say that it is out-of-sight.
I really like that receiver but have only used it indoors... no problems there... I would like to put one in the CUB BL if the range is no problem.
Gracias amigo...
jecchile is offline  
Old 09-05-2008, 05:07 AM
  #29  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by jecchile View Post
HI! groundrushesup...
I have another question for you... I saw where you installed an AR6100 receiver in your modified CUB... what about range in this receiver?... I have been told that it is less than 1000' and some others say that it is out-of-sight.
I really like that receiver but have only used it indoors... no problems there... I would like to put one in the CUB BL if the range is no problem.
Gracias amigo...
The AR6100 is good out to 300-400 feet according to the spec, but DSM2 (DSSS) is a line-of-sight technology so as long as you don't put it behind something large and iron like a Faraday cage, you are alright to 1000 for sure. People got all bothered about it locking out at 200 feet, but then of course they realized they were putting the receiver inside a carbon fiber fuselage, duh.

I routinely spec my glider and warbird with the AR6100 and never once have I had a hit or any sort of lockout.
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 09-05-2008, 05:43 AM
  #30  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

HI! groundrushesup...
GREAT NEWS about the AR6100 receiver.... Thanks again.
jecchile is offline  
Old 10-20-2008, 09:24 AM
  #31  
airfoil'd
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
Default

Just spent Fri nite putting a 1/8balsa subframe in to replace the FRAGILE plastic frame. Used full peices on all 4 sides, bottom(1/4" over Lgear ). Basically a tub with crossmembers. Weighs a few grams more, Cub didn't notice. Much more crashworthy now.
Ran a stiff cf rod across the leading edge, reaching almost to the strut anchors on each side. Wanted to avoid folding, and to try taking out most of the dihedrial to get more aerobatics. Turns out the stability the dihedrial provides was more significant, shortened the rod to about 4", just to keep the rubbers from cutting in to the wing. Tape on leading edge of wing.
After breaking about 8 props, I made a prop saver with the center of a broken prop, a rubber washer two screws and a rubber band. I shaped the center piece, put the tiny screws into the side, opposite each other. The rubber washer was 1/4' thick,with the same diameter as the prop center. Reamed the washer hole out so it would thread tightly on the prop shaft, holding the center piece on tightly. All that was left was to put the rubberband on around the prop blades and the tiny screws. The new prop sits over just the very end of the shaft, tnough to keep it centered but not enough to stop the prop from twisting free of the shaft instead of breaking in crashes. The washer was a great find, and I sanded down the face of the centerpiece down to get the spacing just right.
Fixed the wingstrut ends at the wing end one time after the little hooks sheared off. Heated up a needle, poked it thru the end of the strut. Put it into the anchor points, then stuck a small copper wire thru the hole and used it to secure the two pieces together. I trust that side more than the stock side now.
Overall, the J3 has been a positive first hobby grade plane for me. Its a little wind sensitive because of the wing camber, but it has plenty of power, decent looper, and is fun to roll, which gives some options for manouvers like immelmans. Too bad I can't get sustained inverted, but its fun to try to prop hang with it, that little Cub tries so hard!
Wonder what plane I'll get next...Hmmm...

Happy flying, all!

Last edited by airfoil'd; 10-20-2008 at 06:12 PM.
airfoil'd is offline  
Old 10-21-2008, 03:26 AM
  #32  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
Wonder what plane I'll get next...Hmmm...
Happy flying, all!
You probably can not do better than a PZ T-28 Trojan... a great flying airplane and almost indestructible (unless, of course, you really put one in). I've had mine for almost a year and it performs as it if was new. A great aileron trainer, that looks good and makes you look good also...

I like flying my J-3 BL - nice and relaxed flying, just like my EasyGlider Electric but, the T-28 is more fun because you can really get into aerobatics...

Good luck...
jecchile is offline  
Old 10-21-2008, 05:23 AM
  #33  
airfoil'd
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
Default

I'm looking for the best PZ package, overall. Most versatile radio, best lipo, best motor etc. Basically, the parkzone system that can crossover to any of the PZ airframe systems, and maybe other models. Typhoon2?
Plan is, buy the rtf, Work my way up to the airframe,using its components in other models along the way.
Anybody wanna put their two cents in on this one?
airfoil'd is offline  
Old 10-21-2008, 07:58 AM
  #34  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
I'm looking for the best PZ package, overall. Most versatile radio, best lipo, best motor etc. Basically, the parkzone system that can crossover to any of the PZ airframe systems, and maybe other models. Typhoon2?
Plan is, buy the rtf, Work my way up to the airframe,using its components in other models along the way.
Anybody wanna put their two cents in on this one?

They are now shipping a hnadful of models with the DX5e - but for my money I would rather spend at least the $200 on the DX6i alone. I've held the DX5e and IMO it is not a radio that will satisfy your future needs if you plan to stick with the hobby for awhile. First of all it is not a computer radio, so bear that in mind. Model Memory is also missing, which is huge for me (though I've only filled up 7/20 so far ) The step down between the DX6i and the DX5e is a large one. the DX5e is DSM2, sure, but all the other features of the series are absent. Something else to keep in mind.

The PZ corsair ships with the DX5e, but if I were in your shoes, I would scout around for a deal on a DX6i (make sure the 'i' is there on the end) from someone who has decided to move up to the DX7 -- or indeed for the rare person who has a Spektrum radio and doesn't love it

Personally after my first few flights back in the hobby after 10 years, I knew I was all-in, so I saved up a few months and went for the DX7 Microlite version, which for $350 included an Rx that retails for $50 and three DS285 servos which go for $35 a pop.

$350 - (3(35) + 50) = $195 for the DX7 itself, with charger and transmitter pack (usually) included.

You have to buy the Rx anyway, and the servos will suit you down the road in a good ARF.

A steal I tell ya!

GRU
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 10-21-2008, 02:23 PM
  #35  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
I'm looking for the best PZ package, overall.
If you are looking to get the BEST OVERALL package that includes the engine, Lipo, etc... there is only one way to do it...
BUY THE PARTS AND PUT IT TOGETHER... you can still buy an RTF model, install the engine and radio, connect the battery and go.

Just like "groundrushesup" indicated, there are a lot of RTF models out there but none of them comes with "the best of everything"... they are good but not the best as you want.

The DX5e radio is OK but it will service ONE airplane... if you bind another receiver to it, you'll lose the first one and so on...

Good luck and have fun...
jecchile is offline  
Old 10-21-2008, 06:00 PM
  #36  
airfoil'd
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
Default

The way I look at it is different than a lot of people do. I've heard the catchphrase, "Buy as much radio as you can afford!" so many times now, but I think that was more true ten years ago than it is now. Technology moves so fast now.
If I was going to buy my "big show" radio now, it would probably be the DX6i.
I would be broke, and still flying my one and only Hobby grade plane, my Cub.
For the cost of the DX6i, I could have a second plane, with bigger motor and lipo, more control surface options, more channels on the included radio. Considering I'm at the point in this hobby where I can still grow into even the three ch radio that comes with the cub, I think a "top of the line" PZ radio would last me a while, long enough to built my fleet to a point that justifies a radio with a ten plane memory.
By the time my fleet gets there, the next big thing in radios will have come along, with more features and probably the same or lower pricepoint as the DX6i.

So I'm back to my question; "which Parkzone rtf package is the best all around?"
Most versatile TX/Rx, biggest lipo, best motor?
airfoil'd is offline  
Old 10-21-2008, 08:54 PM
  #37  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
The way I look at it is different than a lot of people do. I've heard the catchphrase, "Buy as much radio as you can afford!" so many times now, but I think that was more true ten years ago than it is now. Technology moves so fast now.
If I was going to buy my "big show" radio now, it would probably be the DX6i.
I would be broke, and still flying my one and only Hobby grade plane, my Cub.
For the cost of the DX6i, I could have a second plane, with bigger motor and lipo, more control surface options, more channels on the included radio. Considering I'm at the point in this hobby where I can still grow into even the three ch radio that comes with the cub, I think a "top of the line" PZ radio would last me a while, long enough to built my fleet to a point that justifies a radio with a ten plane memory.
By the time my fleet gets there, the next big thing in radios will have come along, with more features and probably the same or lower pricepoint as the DX6i.

So I'm back to my question; "which Parkzone rtf package is the best all around?"
Most versatile TX/Rx, biggest lipo, best motor?
Parkzone radios do not get much better than the one that came with your cub. Some models have more channels enabled, but the flimsy construction and lack of multiple model flexibility is still there.

The Dx5e ships with a few airplanes they sell; the Corsair I mentioned being one - that is probably the best radio they offer as part of a package.

Good luck with your search,
GRU out
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 10-22-2008, 04:55 AM
  #38  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
For the cost of the DX6i, I could have a second plane, with bigger motor and lipo, more control surface options, more channels on the included radio.
I think you've answered you own question with your statement above... get a DX6i radio system, a good ARF airplane that you like (I still think the T-28 is a great aileron trainer and it can take a punch) or PNP in order to have servos, etc...

You could consider the E-Flite "T-34 Mentor" which is a nice trainer also and it comes equipped with the DX6i radio... now, if you want an airplane that is "Nitro" powered, E-Flite has a "P-51 Mk II" that also comes with the DX6i system. These airplanes are made of wood though and will not take as much punishment as the T-28. Since you indicated that you've crashed the J-3 various times, I tend to think that you may need the T-28 - unless you are rich... HIHIHI

Anyway, this thread is supposed to be on the J-3 Cub BL... we are kind of getting away from that theme.

Good luck...

By the way, groundrushesup is correct in his assessment of the radios that come with the RTFs... that is the first thing I replaced on my T-28 which I bought as a RTF because I needed the charger, battery, etc...
jecchile is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 05:23 AM
  #39  
airfoil'd
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
Default

Thanks for all the advice guys (at the lhs today, I narrowed it down to T-28 or Typhoon, both come with the big lipo, ail/elev/rudd. Won't be flying it too soon anyways, work my way up, still having.......)

....WAY TOO MUCH FUN WITH MY CUB!!!
I'm just getting to the point where I can bring it in and land on the gravel road in front of my property. Today it was a little muddy, and I liked it that way. Starting to get a "this is my bushplane" attachment to the Cub, Looking forward to skis this winter, followed by floats in the spring. Wonder if my "bushplane" will still loop and roll with floats!
I'm starting to enjoy the nuances of basic flying with this plane, now that I've got the "Aerobatic" urges somewhat satisfied. I think this is a better place to be as a newbie. Course if this means I come out of my rolls smoother, thats great too. I'm just saying I'm enjoying the "training process" and am at peace with sticking to the Cub for now, at least in the hobby grade realm- still lovin my 2 ch micros too, most crashes are painless!
I do have one question though. The under camber of this wing has been credited with this planes less than stellar wind handling. Apparently the Supercub with its flat bottom wing handles wind better. Its been suggested to mod a supercub wing onto the J3. I'm wondering if it might be possible to use a film covering across the bottom of the J3 wing to effectively eliminate the undercamber. I was thinking if I used red film on one wing, green on the other , I could stick a light under the film on each side for a neat night flyer!
Anybody think this might be a worthwhile mod?
airfoil'd is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 05:45 AM
  #40  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
Thanks for all the advice guys (at the lhs today, I narrowed it down to T-28 or Typhoon, both come with the big lipo, ail/elev/rudd. Won't be flying it too soon anyways, work my way up, still having.......)

....WAY TOO MUCH FUN WITH MY CUB!!!
I'm just getting to the point where I can bring it in and land on the gravel road in front of my property. Today it was a little muddy, and I liked it that way. Starting to get a "this is my bushplane" attachment to the Cub, Looking forward to skis this winter, followed by floats in the spring. Wonder if my "bushplane" will still loop and roll with floats!
I'm starting to enjoy the nuances of basic flying with this plane, now that I've got the "Aerobatic" urges somewhat satisfied. I think this is a better place to be as a newbie. Course if this means I come out of my rolls smoother, thats great too. I'm just saying I'm enjoying the "training process" and am at peace with sticking to the Cub for now, at least in the hobby grade realm- still lovin my 2 ch micros too, most crashes are painless!
I do have one question though. The under camber of this wing has been credited with this planes less than stellar wind handling. Apparently the Supercub with its flat bottom wing handles wind better. Its been suggested to mod a supercub wing onto the J3. I'm wondering if it might be possible to use a film covering across the bottom of the J3 wing to effectively eliminate the undercamber. I was thinking if I used red film on one wing, green on the other , I could stick a light under the film on each side for a neat night flyer!
Anybody think this might be a worthwhile mod?

Dunno bout that man. The SC's wing is a full ten inches wider and at least another inch deeper - which would make securing it to the already flimsy saddle on the PZ J-3 problematic. Even though it is foam, it weighs more, and if you've seen the SC up close, the saddle is pretty wide atop the fuse.

I'm sure it would fly but as far as performance goes, its iffy.

My path was thus:

Stock plane for a month or so, then...
8x6 Master Airscrew Prop
Larger wheels

Reinforced tail boom (1/4" hardwood dowel gorilla glued in the crevice inside the fuselage all the way back to the to where the tailfeathers attach)
Reinforced and ultimately rebuilt rudder with CA hinges strong enough to mount the
Tail wheel assembly from the Super Cub
Atlas 400XT BL motor from Hobby Lobby
Dihedral eliminated from wing with CF rod
Inboard 10" ailerons

Now it hangs on my garage wall because I cannibalized the 400XT motor for a scratchbuilt foamie project, but I just ordered this motor from HobbyCity and she'll be back up to flight status in a week or so.
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 05:57 AM
  #41  
airfoil'd
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
Default

How did the cf rod to eliminate dihedrial work out for you? I tried it out but pulled it off. Cub seemed pretty unstable, but it may have been the "breeze" that day....

I've been wondering what my options are for a motor/power upgrade......really not sure why....
airfoil'd is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 06:13 AM
  #42  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
How did the cf rod to eliminate dihedrial work out for you? I tried it out but pulled it off. Cub seemed pretty unstable, but it may have been the "breeze" that day....

I've been wondering what my options are for a motor/power upgrade......really not sure why....
yeah it will be unstable without the dihedral, especially with just rudder and elevator. I removed the dihedral at the same time I put the ailerons in which tightens up the roll, and it also helped eliminate a tendency to pitch up with the more powerful motor.

I rebuilt the frame inside after a crash separated the flimsy firewall from the battery compartment (being a carpenter's son it is STURDY in there lol) so it was heavier, not to mention the paint and later the addition of two servos for the ailerons. The 8x6 prop with that motor gave it more oomph for take-offs, and I dunno if you've ever run across a MAS prop but they are - as my Dad used to say - "harder than woodpecker lips!" The stock props are dreadfully fragile. PZ is most certainly in the 'replacement parts' business.

I also set up flaps (flaperons) with my DX7, which allows me to float in dead-stick for pretty much perfect landings every time (unless I screw it up that is)
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 07:09 AM
  #43  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
I also set up flaps (flaperons) with my DX7, which allows me to float in dead-stick for pretty much perfect landings every time (unless I screw it up that is)
A few pics of the plane in a couple of iterations... yeah it was once an L-4 with invasion stripes.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0796.jpg
Views:	318
Size:	102.9 KB
ID:	81569   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0801.jpg
Views:	340
Size:	83.1 KB
ID:	81570   Click image for larger version

Name:	img019.jpg
Views:	351
Size:	68.1 KB
ID:	81571   Click image for larger version

Name:	img020.jpg
Views:	358
Size:	72.5 KB
ID:	81572   Click image for larger version

Name:	img034.jpg
Views:	346
Size:	130.2 KB
ID:	81573  

Click image for larger version

Name:	img077.jpg
Views:	341
Size:	61.9 KB
ID:	81574   Click image for larger version

Name:	img079.jpg
Views:	337
Size:	67.3 KB
ID:	81575   Click image for larger version

Name:	img080.jpg
Views:	332
Size:	71.7 KB
ID:	81576   Click image for larger version

Name:	img081.jpg
Views:	324
Size:	80.1 KB
ID:	81577  
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 02:34 PM
  #44  
jecchile
Member
 
jecchile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 190
Default

Originally Posted by airfoil'd View Post
Thanks for all the advice guys (at the lhs today, I narrowed it down to T-28 or Typhoon, both come with the big lipo, ail/elev/rudd.
I would not fool too much with the wing of the J-3 BL... it can make a nice flying airplane a bit on the tricky side, especially in some wind.

I'll give you a test that you can try... Tighten up the struts on the wing so as not to have any dihedral and fly it - you'll find that the plane is sluggish to respond to the commands to turn and when windy, sometimes you need to turn NOW... then, loosen the screws of the struts as to provide a bit of flex, which will give you some dihedral when flying, and the response will be much nicer... a much better flying airplane.

As for the next airplane - do yourself a favor and go with the T-28... the Typhoon is more of a 3-D airplane, with big control surfaces, which will get you in trouble... that should be your 3rd airplane and only once you are pretty good at aerobatics with the T-28.

Have fun...
jecchile is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 07:16 PM
  #45  
Leo L
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 589
Default

Airfoil'd,

Jecchile is right. Get the T-28 as your next plane. The Typhoon will be a handfull. Also, it flies so well inverted, that at any distance its very easy to get disoriented as to which end is up, usually resulting in a crash. I've been flying my Typhoon for nearly three years. I bought the T-28 earlier this year and its a lot easier to fly and more fun, unless you want to do 3-D flying.
Leo L is offline  
Old 10-23-2008, 07:43 PM
  #46  
Leo L
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 589
Default

Hi Airfoil'd,

I jumped into this thread at the end, so I missed some of your earlier comments and questions. Regarding the PZ radios, let me give you my experience and suggestions.

First, let me say that I am a diehard HobbyZone/ParkZone enthusiast. I've been flying for four years and have had a lot (I'm afraid to start counting) number of planes, but my favorites have been from HZ/PZ. I started with the Firebird Commander and since have had the Aerobird Challenger, Slow-V, Firebird Freedom, J3Cub, SuperDecathlon, Typhoon, T-28 Trojan and Corsair. I only do ground take-offs, so I won't own a plane that doesn't have landing gear. Therefore I never bought the Stryker, Mustang, FW-190 or Spitfire.

I fly early in the morning, so I never worried about interference from other radios. I used the HZ 27mhz radios in the original planes and in a number of modified planes (all 3-channel) with absolutely no problems. When I finally decided to go to 4-channel, I bought a "replacement" Typhoon transmitter ($30) and a number of receivers ($26 each), and had as many a six planes available to fly off the one transmitter. Since every plane needed a different combination of servo reversal, I mounted a small index card on the back of the transmitter, listing every plane and the switches that it needed to be reversed. At first I also listed the various trim settings that each plane needed, but with time I adjusted each plane's controls so that it would need neutral trim and therefore only the servo positions needed to be adjusted for flying the various planes. About 1 1/2 uears ago I wanted to buy some more receivers, but was told that PZ no longer made the receivers for the original Typhoon radio, so I bought a Tx and Rx's for the Typhoon2. The Typhoon2 transmitter is better than the original, but I have hadd several glitches with the receivers and have had two planes lawndart as a result. One of these was my absolutely favorite plane, the T-28 Trojan, whjich I bought as a PNP. Recently I bought the Corsair RTF, and the Dx5 radio is terrific. I've rebuilt the Trojan and put a Corsair "replacement" receiver into it and now plan to gradually switch all of my planes to the Spectrum receivers. However, the receivers are not cheap ($50).

Anyway, my recommendation for you is to buy the T-28 Trojan as a PNP. Then buy the "replacement" Tx and Rx for the PZ Corsair. Get the LiPo batteries from HobbyCity and you'll have a terrific combination for only a little more than the RTF T-28 costs.
Leo L is offline  
Old 10-29-2008, 08:47 PM
  #47  
Sam27000
New Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 5
Default

Hi guys, your forum is awesome. Groundrushesup, I had a quick question. I am looking to repair the flimsy (MADE TO BRAKE) inner shell of my cub. How did you get to the inner shell to mod it? Did you just cut along the tape to cut the fuselage in half?

Thanks, sam

Last edited by Sam27000; 10-29-2008 at 08:48 PM. Reason: typo
Sam27000 is offline  
Old 10-29-2008, 10:55 PM
  #48  
Ram008
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11
Default DX5e

The DX5e radio is OK but it will service ONE airplane... if you bind another receiver to it, you'll lose the first one and so on...
Just as an FYI, this statement is not correct. You can bind as many receivers to the DX5e as you'd like to. The only thing you may need to do is adjust trims between models. This trim change can be mostly eliminated by adjusting the throws mechanically so that all of your aircraft are trimmed properly at neutral. Servo reversing can be eliminated by simply installing the servo horn in the proper orientation.
Ram008 is offline  
Old 10-30-2008, 12:16 AM
  #49  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by Ram008 View Post
Just as an FYI, this statement is not correct. You can bind as many receivers to the DX5e as you'd like to. The only thing you may need to do is adjust trims between models. This trim change can be mostly eliminated by adjusting the throws mechanically so that all of your aircraft are trimmed properly at neutral. Servo reversing can be eliminated by simply installing the servo horn in the proper orientation.

Just looking for further clarification: If you bind the DX5e to a second Rx, do you have to rebind to the first when you want to fly it?

I think the gist of what jecchile was saying is exactly what you are saying, and that the fact that it is not a computer radio is a bit of a drag when you have more than one model and a radio that lacks the ability to save trim profiles. I know, I know, I hear plenty of people who get all bent up about mechanically trimming a model properly for flight, but things like servo travel and sub trim eally do come in handy with trickier models, or - if you ae like me - scratch builds that are not necessarily perfect to start with
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 10-30-2008, 12:27 AM
  #50  
Ram008
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11
Default

There is no re-binding necessary.
Ram008 is offline  

Quick Reply: Parkzone J3 Cub BL


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.10604 seconds with 20 queries