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2 words: Parkzone VAPOR!

Old 11-27-2008, 02:59 AM
  #151  
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Default 110 mAH LiPo

The 110 mAH LiPo is made for the Blace mCX Heli and have the E-flite brand on them. They also have no Velcro on them so you'll have to improvise. They charge in the same charger as all the other different brand batteries. I've been using NiMH AA batteries in my chargers.

Blade mCX - E-flite 110mAH

Vapor- Etomic 70mAH

Cessna - Minium 70mAH, the newer birds use the Etomic battery
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Old 11-27-2008, 04:14 AM
  #152  
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Thanks for the info.

My Vapor batteries are labeled Etomic.

The battery that came with the Vapor is crapping out after about 8 charges/flights. It seems to go through a normal charge cycle, but after flying normally for about 1 minute or less, the motor just shuts off. I let it set a couple of minutes, and it flew again about 1 minute and it quit again.

Hours later I charged it again, and it flew less than a minute and shut off again.

The LHS thinks the charger batteries are bad, but the extra flight battery I bought along with the Vapor, is still charging fine. I never used the included low budget batteries. I used Duracells. Now I've put in another set of Duracells just to make sure.

I'm going to go to NiMH to save some bucks though.

This little plane is so much fun. Mainly because I can walk outside, set in a lawn chair, and fly all around, learning (sometimes hard) lessons about wind currents and eddies, etc. I was slope soaring the front of my Chevy truck this morning.
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Old 11-27-2008, 11:09 AM
  #153  
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You are already trying new charger batteries. That would have been my first suggestion.

Second, take a look with the suspect battery in the charger. When you plug it in, the LED should glow bright red and stay that way for at least several minutes, longer if the pack is drained like you said. I have a pack that often makes a poor/no contact when in the charger. For that pack, I have to wiggle it around some and/or to press and hold it down into the charger to get the light to stay on and for the pack to charge.

My personal experience with using rechargeable NiMh batteries in the charger is that they have a lower voltage than the recommended alkaline batteries. Thus I got only a few charges before I had to recharge them. Frustrating rather than satisfying. One way to tell that the charger batteries are low is if the LED stays barely on after you remove the pack from the charger.

Hope this helps.
Jim

Originally Posted by sellonoid View Post
Thanks for the info.

My Vapor batteries are labeled Etomic.

The battery that came with the Vapor is crapping out after about 8 charges/flights. It seems to go through a normal charge cycle, but after flying normally for about 1 minute or less, the motor just shuts off. I let it set a couple of minutes, and it flew again about 1 minute and it quit again.

Hours later I charged it again, and it flew less than a minute and shut off again.

The LHS thinks the charger batteries are bad, but the extra flight battery I bought along with the Vapor, is still charging fine. I never used the included low budget batteries. I used Duracells. Now I've put in another set of Duracells just to make sure.

I'm going to go to NiMH to save some bucks though.

This little plane is so much fun. Mainly because I can walk outside, set in a lawn chair, and fly all around, learning (sometimes hard) lessons about wind currents and eddies, etc. I was slope soaring the front of my Chevy truck this morning.
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Old 11-27-2008, 02:37 PM
  #154  
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I was thinking about how the NiMH or NiCD are only 1.2v/cell versus 1.5v, but I thought I'd try it anyway, hoping that 4.8v would be enough for the internal circuitry to still charge the LiPo. I guess not from what you're saying. Actually it sounds like they do work at first, until the high surface charge drops down to 1.2v/cell.

I was thinking about providing an external power supply, current limited to whatever charge current they charge at. I haven't tried any measurements yet.

I think there was a post in this thread about removing all but battery #1, and feeding external voltage, but that worries me a little because I think this charger might depend on the various characteristics of AA batteries to charge properly and safely.

I might open up the charger to see if it's obvious what's going on. The whole blinky LED thing has me thinking it is very low budget.
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Old 11-27-2008, 03:02 PM
  #155  
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sellonoid:

The charger is not all that cheap/bad. It just needs batteries with enough voltage under load to charge the LiPo up to about 4.3 volts, not to mention having a little extra for the charger internal voltage drop. So it's logical that the rechargeables would not give you very many charges between charging them. But then again, you would not be draining them very deeply at all between charges, so they ought to last quite a while with proper charging. But that's potentially a whole nother story!

The charger circuit uses a tapped battery. So if you just hook up an external voltage like a 6 volt DC wall wart, then you will lose the charge indicator light.

There are circuits around using two diodes and a resistor to get that voltage drop to give the equivalent of a tapped pack. But then you get beyond a lot of hobbyists.

Another approach is to buy or come up with another connector, and use that to charge from a different charger altogether. But only a few chargers can be set to charge at the low current a 70 mAH pack needs. And they may stop the charge way too soon, like mine did when I tried it. You can spend a bunch of money on a specialized charger. But why?

Another thing you could do if you really want to use rechargeables and not charge them too often is buy a single AA battery holder and wire it up in series with the holders inside the charger. Be sure to hook it up correctly to the Black wire, not the Red wire. But then hanging it off the side somewhere would be ugly, to say the least. And then the charger might not fit back into the foam carrier. I considered this but decided against going that way.

So overall, I just decided to buy and use alkallines (and sometimes rechargeables when I run low on alkalines). I put them in the transmitter first, since that's the most critical. And it uses very little of their capacity. From there, I move them into the charger, when needed, and use them there till the LED stays on after the end of charging and the LiPo has been removed. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Hope this helps.
Jim
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Old 11-27-2008, 04:02 PM
  #156  
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I might pursue some modification because if you do the math on constantly buying AA's, it's not a cheap plane to charge/fly. The documentation and posts here say 20 or 30 charges per set of batteries, but my LHS and others have me changing AA's after 8 charge cycles. That's ridiculous, but likely not totally necessary.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-27-2008, 10:12 PM
  #157  
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The "bad" battery might be the victim of a bad connection as others have had. Before, it would fail in flight, but it seemed to charge normally. But this time when I put it in the charger, it didn't seem to keep charging as before. When I pressed it down, the LED would come back on, and go off when I let go. I now have a bit of Kleenex wedged between the battery and the charger, and it looks like it's charging. Now I just have to worry about how the connection is in the plane when flying.
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Old 11-28-2008, 05:51 PM
  #158  
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Nite before last it went dead calm and was about 28-30 degrees so I grabbed the Vapor and turned on all the patio and backyard lights and flew for a bit. I have two of the 70ma batts. Both of them lasted only about 5-6 minutes before the LVC kicked in. This is the coldest temps I have flown them so was suprised that that was all the time I got out of them. Anybody got any ideas on what to use to keep them warm, or maybe my batts are just going bad as I have maybe 25-30 cycles on them now. They seem to be OK in the Gym though......

Bob
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:28 PM
  #159  
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I've been flying every morning, and it's been in the 20's all week. The flights last about 10 - 12 minutes at 2/3 to full speed on the fairly new 70 mAh batteries. One has about 20 flights on it, and about half that on the second battery.

Incredibly I've been getting what seems to be some thermal action on the part of the pasture that the sun hits when it comes up. There was no wind, and no obstacles to cause an updraft, so I guess it's just warming air. I thought it had to be 90 degrees to have thermals. The last flight this morning, the thing quickly climbed to probably 200' before I realized I couldn't tell which way it was pointing, so I had to act fast. I accidentally dived the poor thing a bit and probably about pulled the wing off recovering.

Regarding my one battery that seems bad..... I think I got it fully charged with the Kleenex wedged in the charger, but when I flew it, the motor was cutting in and out. Screw it, it's going back to the LHS since he already gave me a replacement.
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:37 PM
  #160  
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Default LiPo's

Keep them in your pocket until you need them. Not your jacket pocket but your pants pocket or inside jacket/shirt pocket. Things don't work as well in the cold.

If you let a LiPo sit for too long it gets weak but after a few flites they're back to normal. LiPo's like to be used; after a winter I cycle my LiPo's (I've got big planes too) or take a few short flites. Could be that the batts in the charger need changing. Could be a bad battery too.
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:41 PM
  #161  
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Default Charger & Battery

I've had some trouble with the Minium brand (older Cessna's) battery and the charger. The battery connector is not very study and tends to tilt some and makes it hard to plug in the charger. I put some GOOP glue around the connector to stiffen it up some.

I don'e see Horizon selling the Minium brand with the new planes; it's either the E-flite or Etomic brand. But the hobby stores still have a bunch of the Minium brand on the shelves; just don't buy those.
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:48 PM
  #162  
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To hold replacement batteries I cut a narrow strip of velcro and wrapped it around the battery. From then on all I have to do is slide the battery in and out of the velcro loop.

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Old 11-29-2008, 02:50 AM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
To hold replacement batteries I cut a narrow strip of velcro and wrapped it around the battery. From then on all I have to do is slide the battery in and out of the velcro loop.

swimmer
Swimmer, are you saying you're going to just wrap a piece of Velcro around the battery and fuselage boom? That is the ultimate in simple and light weight. I'm glad you brought that up. My Etomic batteries literally stick to my gloves and coat better than the battery holder. It's almost like the holder has the hooks instead of the loops.

Somebody posted previously in this thread about removing the battery holder altogether and saving .5 gm. Maybe that was you.

By the way. I put my Ammeter in the loop of batteries while it was charging. At first when the battery was dead and the LED was lit solid, I measured 270mAh, which is just shy of a 4C charge rate! Then it drops down when the LED starts blinking of course, but I didn't attempt to get accurate readings as I would have to rig up my o-scope for that.

I wonder if a regular LiPo charger - assuming you could set it low enough - would use the proper "strategy" for charging these little guys. Maybe there is only one strategy for LiPo's, I don't know.

If I don't adapt my full size LiPo charger, I think I'm going to at least put a relay on a 30 minute timer in the battery circuit, so I can go off and leave a battery charging. I forgot one on the charger again, and this time it was on for almost 2 hours. I hope I didn't fry it. The LED wasn't blinking at all. I'll fly it in the morning.

As caltrop said, I keep the batteries in my pocket until just before I fly, although they cool quickly in flight.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:17 PM
  #164  
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sellonoid,

Yes, I left the battery holder there and wrap around it, the battery and the boom. The velcro is about 1/8" wide. Each tim I change a battery all I have to do is slide it out and the fresh one in.

swimmer
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Old 11-29-2008, 04:10 PM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
sellonoid,

Yes, I left the battery holder there and wrap around it, the battery and the boom. The velcro is about 1/8" wide. Each tim I change a battery all I have to do is slide it out and the fresh one in.

swimmer
Excellent, simple idea.... will have to steal that...
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:00 PM
  #166  
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I use my ICE charger, set to 200 mah Lipo setting and charge at.2 amp with great results. I have been doing this since last year with no ill effects. You can buy a receiver connector for the battery on Ebay or elsewhere, and adapt it to any plug you use, like my Deans. I have also opened the bottom of one of my chargers, vut the wires to the battery connector, wired them into a Deans plug, dremel a slot for the wires to come out, and put it back together. No more AA batteries!!
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Old 11-29-2008, 07:04 PM
  #167  
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I think I'll try my BC6-10 set at 200 mAh like you're doing.

I was thinking about installing/wiring a jack on the Etomic charger so I could plug in the external charge current from the BC6-10, but if I can buy the connector on ebay, I'll do that instead.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:48 PM
  #168  
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I earlier had 2 bricks fail while in the air and never ever bind again. ParkZone replaced them both. Have seen where others had that same problem.

Have not heard about this problem in a while. Perhaps did all the weak bricks get infant-mortalitied, or did ParkZone change/improve something?

I certainly hope that's all over, as it was frustrating, to say the least.

Jim
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Old 12-06-2008, 04:14 PM
  #169  
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Wink S--- Happens

My Vapor has not failed except for a broken rudder.

You get bad stuff sometimes (sometimes more than others) and it can be just plain BAD stuff or some kind of design issue. I have not heard much in the BAD department concerning the Vapor - I hope not... The controller in the Vapor is being used in lots of different aircraft.
---Vapor
---mCX heli
---new Ember2
---I'm sure there's more in the works like the Cessna & Citabria

This Bind-N-Fly is GREAT since I have a DX7.

There's a new 4CH in the development stages at Horizon. A fully aerobatic micro flyer. I CAN'T WAIT!!!
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...56&postcount=1



Should have been there in the early days of the DX7... Lieutenant Loughead & myself were two here on this forum that had issues.

My Blade CP Pro 4-in-one controller went bad... I've been hearing about other people with the same.

S--- Happens...
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:24 PM
  #170  
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I discovered in a post flight check on my Vapor that the landing gear strut was broken away from the top of the triangle mount at the main fuselage boom. I used 5 minute epoxy and the repair was easy and looks to be solid. Has anyone had any experience using epoxy for structural repairs? Will it hold?

I love this airplane!!!

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Old 12-12-2008, 10:21 PM
  #171  
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I usually just ca glue it, hit it with accelerator and throw it back up in the air. Scotch tape it great for re-attaching the wing and tail covering. So far all repairs are holding up fine.
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:19 AM
  #172  
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I broke my landing gear off on one side (snapped the tiny CF rod) so I just broke the other one off. The plane flys real well (maybe even better) without the LG. But I'm going to replace it. The bad part is that I will have to destroy the motor mount to replace the LG. The Ca(i'm guessing) that is used from the factory,makes removing parts hard. De Bonder disolves the plastic,so either way you will have to buy new parts to replace the one's you destroy to make the repairs. Is ther any glue that can be used besides Ca? It's kinda dumb to have to tear up good parts,just to remove them. Ron
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:31 AM
  #173  
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Default Vapor Fix

Here's the rudder fix I used. The rudder tends to break just below the tube I mention right where it goes through the tail.

Click image for larger version

Name:	Vapor Fix.jpg
Views:	505
Size:	61.2 KB
ID:	87883

This is the actual repaired Vapor in the picture. Hasn't broken again since I fixed it.

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Old 12-25-2008, 08:39 AM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by caltrop View Post
Here's the rudder fix I used. The rudder tends to break just below the tube I mention right where it goes through the tail.

Attachment 87883

This is the actual repaired Vapor in the picture. Hasn't broken again since I fixed it.

Thats a really good fix - although not broken that part yet.

Thanks.
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Old 12-25-2008, 12:19 PM
  #175  
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That is a great repair! Looks stronger that orginal design! Ron
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