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Seniorita EP power configuration

Old 07-14-2010, 05:24 AM
  #1  
danielluarca
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Default Seniorita EP power configuration

I bought two "SIG" (which has been erased from all the documents) Senioritas EP from Nitro Planes. They are the real deal, really good overall quality, although one of them came banged pretty badly, I blame UPS, had to fix it old school. But anyway, the NitroPlanes site(and SIG's) reccomends a 400 watt outrunner motor. I was wondering if an Electryfly 0.25 Rimfire outrunner with a Great Planes Silver Series 45amp Esc would do the job. Has anyone tried and tested a this power configuration on this plane?
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Old 07-14-2010, 01:18 PM
  #2  
fmw
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Yes. That would be a pretty good power setup for it. I use the Scorpion 3014-1050 with a 55 amp ESC and a 12X8 prop. What you have in mind should be similar.
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:52 PM
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BEAR-AvHistory
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I also bought a pair of Senioritas from Nitro as spare parts for the original from SIG.

Mine currently has a Eflite P-25, taken from a re-motored Eflite T-34, Turnigy 60amp ESC & flys on the old T-34 3S3300 & Turnigy 3S3400 batteries. Prop is a MAS 12X8X3.

Has also had a Turnigy C3548/900, now in the T-34, with the same ESC, prop & battery.

Very strong flyer with good airtime.
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:12 PM
  #4  
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Thanks for you replies, Ill try the Rimfire and see how it turns out. Thanks
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Old 07-16-2010, 03:51 AM
  #5  
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If you want to save some "change" don't over look a Monster Power 32 from Hobby Partz at under $23.00. A buddy has a Senioritta running this motor on 4cells with a 12X8 prop and has more than enough. I too have the same motor in a GP Cherokee 40 and it flies great! Their stats are equil to the Eflight 'power' series of motors. These motors are a bargan for the buck.
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:34 PM
  #6  
danielluarca
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After all this time, I finally had time to build the senioritas, but when I got to the part where you have to mount the engine, the manual does not mention anything about right thrust. The sugested power setup does not seem to include right thrust (I require a different setup, since I´m installing a Rimfire 0.25). I recall that on my nitro powered seniorita (about 15 years ago) you did have to apply right thrust. Did any one apply any right thrust on their seniorita´s ep or do you have to mount the motor straight foward?
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:19 PM
  #7  
Lancer31
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Default Plenty of down, but no right.

That's what I found in my un-built Seniorita. Not sure why they neglected to put right thrust in the firewall, but I suggest that you do provide it. About 4 degrees will be correct. Best of luck to you!
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:27 PM
  #8  
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Thanks Lancer31, I´ll try your recommendation. I´ll be back with more info when I fly it and see how it behaves.
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:04 AM
  #9  
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My wife bought me one of these with my help. Like a little kid I couldn't help but take it out of the big box for a little peak. Have to say I am happy with the quality of the plane, and does not look like there will be a problem with putting it together either. I am going to put the LED sticky on lights on this plane.
Myself I am torn between the monster 25, and the 32. One seems like it might be a little under powered and the 32 seems like over kill. So I guess I will go with over kill as the led's will run off a seperate 3 cell lipo.

What size servos are you folks running in your Seniorita? I was thinking the Hitec 81's for this plane they should be enough torque to handle the wgt.
Well now I have to wait till chrismas for this, but at least I can get everything ordered so it can go together quick.
John
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:53 AM
  #10  
BEAR-AvHistory
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Have upped it to a 4S4000/5000 battery to standardize with some other planes. Servos are all HTX-5010's from HobbyKing also a standard item for most of my planes.
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:39 AM
  #11  
danielluarca
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Default Hitec servos

I´m using Hitec HS-485HB servos from Tower Hobbies, although I haven´t tried them in the air yet, will post an update when I do.

By the way, most of the plane parts fit pretty nicely, but I had some trouble bolting the wing to the fuselage with the nylon bolts. I advise you not to glue both halves of the wing before you try how they fit on the fuse. I had to trim the rear wing support on the fuselage for the wing to fit propertly. Also, no matter how much press both wing halves toghether, the nylon bolts and the blind nuts on the fuse dont exactly align. Maybe its something particular to my seniorita, hope yours has better a fitting .

Hope to see some pics your plane with the LEDS on!
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:36 PM
  #12  
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For what its worth I have never glued the wings together. Plane has about 18 months on it now.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:06 AM
  #13  
danielluarca
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Default Seniorita´s First flight

Just updating on the power setup I used today on my seniorita´s ep first flight.
Motor: Rimfire .25
Prop: 11 x 8.5
Right Thrust: None
Down Thrust: The same the firewall had
Engine Mount: Had to make a custom one out of 1/4" plywood
ESC: Electrifly Silver Series 45A
Battery: Venom Power 3s 3200mah Lipo

It performed great, had plenty of power, it really didnt require any right trim to compensate the lack of right trust, really good overall. However, it did require down trim since it did had the tendency to go up a bit, even with the center of gravity where the instruction manual says it should be. Maybe next time I'll add some weight in the nose to make it a little nose heavy to correct that.
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:47 PM
  #14  
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Noticed all the Seniors & Seniorita's at the field, including one built from plans, have a slight static down elevator. As far as I know no one has added any extra weight to the nose.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
Noticed all the Seniors & Seniorita's at the field, including one built from plans, have a slight static down elevator. As far as I know no one has added any extra weight to the nose.
Now that you mention it, the after trimming the elevator it did end up with about 1/4" of down elevator. Could fly it like that, its just that seeing the elevator in that position with the airplane standing still makes me feel uncomfortable, aesthetically speaking.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:15 PM
  #16  
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Change the wing incedence by putting some washers between the wing and fuselage where it bolts down. My super cub had a tendecie to climb to much and I ued a popsicle stick to raise the trailing edge of the wing. Pd1 taught me that trick helps out with that climbing attitude.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:40 PM
  #17  
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Thanks for the advice, will try raising the trailing edge next time I fly it.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:58 PM
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Hope it helps out I should have mine ready soon have to see if I run into the same problem. It does have plenty of down built into the motor mount. Makes me wonder if it might have to much down, and making the wing load up to much. The other option would be to shim the motor mount and take out some of that down thrust.
I will have to play with mine when it is done to see what works.
John
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:53 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
I also bought a pair of Senioritas from Nitro as spare parts for the original from SIG.

Mine currently has a Eflite P-25, taken from a re-motored Eflite T-34, Turnigy 60amp ESC & flys on the old T-34 3S3300 & Turnigy 3S3400 batteries. Prop is a MAS 12X8X3.

Has also had a Turnigy C3548/900, now in the T-34, with the same ESC, prop & battery.

Very strong flyer with good airtime.
Bear-AvHistory,
Where did you get the spacers that you used?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:32 PM
  #20  
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Interesting thread, I still have an old Sig Kadet LT 40 that I would like to take out the engine and put in an electric motor but still have not educated myself enough on electrics to know how to size.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:11 PM
  #21  
BEAR-AvHistory
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Originally Posted by hiflyer15 View Post
Bear-AvHistory,
Where did you get the spacers that you used?

Thanks
hiflyer15
One of our club officers own this shop. They sell then individually by size or in ready made kits. They are thicker walled the the ones at Home Depot so will support a pretty good sized motor.

Have them on a 5065/2100 watt motor is a 1/4 scale Super Cub

http://www.eastrc.org/shop.cgi/page=...00727201.15407

http://www.eastrc.org/shop.cgi/page=...00727201.15407
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:29 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RCFlyer44 View Post
Interesting thread, I still have an old Sig Kadet LT 40 that I would like to take out the engine and put in an electric motor but still have not educated myself enough on electrics to know how to size.
A 600 watt motor in this range would give you over 100 watts per pound which is good for this type of plane.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7708

I am finishing up a Kadet Senior & am using this 1150watt motor with 80amp ESC & 4S battery. Could have gone with a slightly smaller one but had this motor available.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7708
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
A 600 watt motor in this range would give you over 100 watts per pound which is good for this type of plane.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7708

I am finishing up a Kadet Senior & am using this 1150watt motor with 80amp ESC & 4S battery. Could have gone with a slightly smaller one but had this motor available.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7708
Bear, thanks for the information and the link! I buy from HK all the time. How do I find out how to figure that information and know that 100 watts per pound is good for this type of plane or x amount of watts is good for a sport plane or edf, etc??
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RCFlyer44 View Post
Bear, thanks for the information and the link! I buy from HK all the time. How do I find out how to figure that information and know that 100 watts per pound is good for this type of plane or x amount of watts is good for a sport plane or edf, etc??
This is Eflite/Horizons rule of thumb for picking motors.

‘Power’ can be measured in ‘watts’, as seen in this example:

1 horsepower = 746 watts

Watts can be determined by multiplying ‘volts’ times ‘amps’:
10 volts x 10 amps = 100 watts

We can determine the power requirements for a given model based on these Input Watts Per Pound Guidelines (using the RTF weight of the model, including battery pack):

• 50–70 watts per pound: Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models

• 70–90 watts per pound: Trainer and slow flying scale models • 90–110 watts per pound: Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models

• 110–130 watts per pound: Advanced aerobatic and high speed models

• 130–150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans

• 150–200+ watts per pound: Unlimited performance aerobatic and 3D models
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