Ideal size for Electric Planes
#1
Landing is not optional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 43

I have been converting small glow planes to elctric for a long time, I also fly a lot of ParkFlyers but in my opinion .25 size airplanes are the best candidates for electrification. You get a good size airplane that will handle some wind, there is a lot of scale planes out there that can be converted realtively easy and it is not as expensive as a .40 or .60 size conversion. The price of motors and performance has been getting better and better so conversion are not out of reach of most flyers. When you convert a .40 or .60 size plane though the price of the batteries is usually twice the price of the plane but with a .25 plane you can almost always use the batteries you use for parkflyers, sometimes you need to set them up in parallel but that is ok. You are getting dual use of those packs. I want to hear your opinion on this matter and maybe post some pictures of midsize planes you have electrified. I don't want to knock parkflyers is just that I think that bigger airplanes are easier to fly and easier to fix. Thanks.
#2
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 708

I aggree with what you said. Larger planes handle the wind better. If you have a field large enough, I think .25 to .40 glow conversions make alot of sense. I'll disaggree about the cost of a .40 size plane. I guess it comes down to what you want to spend for a battery pack.
John
John
#4

I think the "s400" class is very good. The small light LiPoly's and 100-150w brushless motors have really turned that class of plane. They fly very well.
But I agree the larger the plane the better it flies. As long as they are in the 3s/10cell class (so you can use BEC on the ESC) they work very well.
Here are a couple of my 300w systems! Ripmax spit will be next!
Mike
But I agree the larger the plane the better it flies. As long as they are in the 3s/10cell class (so you can use BEC on the ESC) they work very well.
Here are a couple of my 300w systems! Ripmax spit will be next!
Mike
#5

I'am new to the conversion angle, but I've got a Sig Wonder on the way and a Poison fun fly (see http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5744). both .25 to .40. class.
I like 3 foot span or bigger. As winds here are pretty constant but fairly strong.
First point for me is keeping the costs reasonable.
So using the same lipopacks is the first thing you can do.
But I also look to weight. If a conversion would be heavyer then the gasser there's nothing in it for me. I want preformance as good or better.
With .25 class planes I can keep the weight way down compared to the gasser, and not compromise at all on the preformance. So .25 planes are great for conversion. Even for 3D planes...
With .40 this still works, but the weight is getting almost even. And cost are getting close to expensive. But manageble. So still most plane classes will work.
Now i'ts getting tricky. .60 and upEither you go way expensive or you have to compromise on capabilities.
A slowflying piper wil fly nicely at a fair price, but a 3D plane wil need some serious spending. Just look at those new 4 motor drives. That also means 4 esc's and 4 batterypacks...
For me this isn't afordable. So I stick to .25 to .40
With kit's there should be a bit more within reach.
As example :I know of Wonders who are under 350 grams bare frame...
A .60 kit should be doable, if you can save some weight. Witch often is posible. The motor mount is way lighter if you can incorperate it into the build. One les servo and no reciever pack. Every gram counts here...The stresses of the running engine are also lowwer, so lightning holes are posible. And lead can be ommited by modifying the plane slightly so it wil balance by adjusting the flight pack only.
I've got a greatplanes .60 that's sitting in it's box waiting until I dare to built it.. And are able to dump a huge brushles in it.... With matching lipo packs..
Frank.
I like 3 foot span or bigger. As winds here are pretty constant but fairly strong.
First point for me is keeping the costs reasonable.
So using the same lipopacks is the first thing you can do.
But I also look to weight. If a conversion would be heavyer then the gasser there's nothing in it for me. I want preformance as good or better.
With .25 class planes I can keep the weight way down compared to the gasser, and not compromise at all on the preformance. So .25 planes are great for conversion. Even for 3D planes...
With .40 this still works, but the weight is getting almost even. And cost are getting close to expensive. But manageble. So still most plane classes will work.
Now i'ts getting tricky. .60 and upEither you go way expensive or you have to compromise on capabilities.
A slowflying piper wil fly nicely at a fair price, but a 3D plane wil need some serious spending. Just look at those new 4 motor drives. That also means 4 esc's and 4 batterypacks...
For me this isn't afordable. So I stick to .25 to .40
With kit's there should be a bit more within reach.
As example :I know of Wonders who are under 350 grams bare frame...
A .60 kit should be doable, if you can save some weight. Witch often is posible. The motor mount is way lighter if you can incorperate it into the build. One les servo and no reciever pack. Every gram counts here...The stresses of the running engine are also lowwer, so lightning holes are posible. And lead can be ommited by modifying the plane slightly so it wil balance by adjusting the flight pack only.
I've got a greatplanes .60 that's sitting in it's box waiting until I dare to built it.. And are able to dump a huge brushles in it.... With matching lipo packs..
Frank.
#8
#10

sorry guys - the Red and white is the Bronco....(brain fade)
The Red and Yellow is the eDawg.
The Bronco is also scratch built however.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375467
Take a look here for the laser cut eDawg:
http://www.hobbyhangar.com/test/lsrpack.htm
Mike
The Red and Yellow is the eDawg.
The Bronco is also scratch built however.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375467
Take a look here for the laser cut eDawg:
http://www.hobbyhangar.com/test/lsrpack.htm
Mike
#11

Whatever I can fly (well) with up to 300W of power (Jitterbug, SA Groove, SA Edge, MM E-Tana, etc.) . That is really 10 cells or 3S1P packs pulling up to 30A . I have a SA CAP232 40E that requires 3S2P packs . While it is a great plane to fly, I only get 2 ten to twelve minute flights with it. With a bit smaller plane like the Groove, I get 4 ten to twelve minute flights! No brainer to me!
. Of course 400 size fits very well in this limitation as well. In fact I am just finishing up a Multiplex Micro-Jet Foamie using a Mega1615/4 motor on 3S1P .... Should rip .... Yes, I know it's ummmm foam, but I wanted something for the windy days :o . Plenty of planes to 'choose' from in the 300W and below range too....
Like the E-Dawg, just never got around to it. Laser kit may be the way to go for folks like me
. Nice job Mike .

Like the E-Dawg, just never got around to it. Laser kit may be the way to go for folks like me

#12

Hey now,
Back when I flew glow I mostly built and flew "B" class planes, er, sorry, .21-.30 size engines. I like the size and the cost, now that I fly electrics mostly I still prefer this size.
My current favorites are:
My "big model" a model tech Magic with Hacker B-50 (yeah, a "sporty fourty" size).
Zen 30 (Hacker B-40).
Lazy Bee Special 50" wing with ailerons (Astro 15G, ten brjs).
E-flite Mini Edge 540 (Aon 2419, 3s LiPo)
Mini Funtana (Mega 1615-4, 3sLiPo)
Unknown hot liner (Hacker B-40 10 brjs)
That and a couple of flat plate foamies for 3d are what I fly as far as power goes. I'd like to see more "B" class models, they fit my car, they're cheaper, and they fly well too.
RobII
Back when I flew glow I mostly built and flew "B" class planes, er, sorry, .21-.30 size engines. I like the size and the cost, now that I fly electrics mostly I still prefer this size.
My current favorites are:
My "big model" a model tech Magic with Hacker B-50 (yeah, a "sporty fourty" size).
Zen 30 (Hacker B-40).
Lazy Bee Special 50" wing with ailerons (Astro 15G, ten brjs).
E-flite Mini Edge 540 (Aon 2419, 3s LiPo)
Mini Funtana (Mega 1615-4, 3sLiPo)
Unknown hot liner (Hacker B-40 10 brjs)
That and a couple of flat plate foamies for 3d are what I fly as far as power goes. I'd like to see more "B" class models, they fit my car, they're cheaper, and they fly well too.
RobII
#13

I am much impressed with my 19 ounce geared 130 watt brushless powered GWS Zero. With an 1100 3S Lipo pack I am getting very aerobatic 10-15 minute flight times with 15 foot ROG's and many easy landings without damage on the scale size foam wheels. I can fly in 15mph+ gusty conditions with confidence although I don't like it as much as calm air flying. The E-Flight P47 and similar foamies with geared brushed 480 motors also fly very realistically for a small investment.
#14

I think the notion of 'perfect size' is a matter of opinion. Having said that I too like the .25 'sized' planes for the same reasons as others. Easy to power with electric, good size for my getting worse eyesight, and the many choices of kit/ARF/plans etc.
#15
Think I can fix it?
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Posts: 766

I also have to go with .25 when it comes to cost. I am spending quite a bit on a few .40-.45 size planes. World Models Miss America, a Thunder Tiger Champion 45L, and a World Models Funworld EP. These are the only three I think I'll do for a while. The cost is high for me because I like over powered aircraft. I still love my Park Flyers, and hope to get a couple more. As I have motors with no homes.
Steve
Steve
#16
Landing is not optional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 43

I am converint an old Global Fokker DR VII to electric and had to spend $110 for an Elite power 46 $125 for a CC 60 and $329 for each battery pack and I bought 2 battery packs. so for the conversion is $883 without counting the plane of radio equipment. I really like electrics and I wanted a big Biplane on electric so I went ahead but that is when I started thinking about the cost differences in sizess. I don't build anymore, the time is not there but I have a friend in Vegas that is a great builder. Tim Nelson's builds have been featured in magazine articles in the past and he has built a few kits for me, all electric and they are awesome flyers. I have been flying since I was 6 years old, my father got me into it but after growing up college and the army stopped me from flying. About 6 years ago I had a really bad accident that landed me in a wheel chair for 2 years and I suddenly found myself back flying. I will continue to fly mostly electric and I do believe that in the next five years or so the price of LiPo will drop, specially when fuel cells become available to the public. If you got pics post them, I will start posting my planes once I get my camera back. Thanks for all the replies.
#17

Now that should be an awesome plane on electric power!
The photo galleries here are just chock full of great looking planes and nifty folks.
I'll be putting a few more planes in my gallery over the next week.
The photo galleries here are just chock full of great looking planes and nifty folks.
I'll be putting a few more planes in my gallery over the next week.

#21

enrique, I usually disagree with blanket statements, but my personal experience tells me that you're right.
My TwinStar II is a 54-56" span plane, which I believe is about .25 size glow. With brushless power and the heavy NiMH packs, it handles the wind very well. Its battery packs were only $45 each, and I average 23 minute flights with it.
I have a Formosa which has more power for the weight, but it sure does get tossed around a lot. It flies pretty well in the end, but the bigger birds are much easier to land in the wind. (which is more important than the flying part, IMO)
My TwinStar II is a 54-56" span plane, which I believe is about .25 size glow. With brushless power and the heavy NiMH packs, it handles the wind very well. Its battery packs were only $45 each, and I average 23 minute flights with it.
I have a Formosa which has more power for the weight, but it sure does get tossed around a lot. It flies pretty well in the end, but the bigger birds are much easier to land in the wind. (which is more important than the flying part, IMO)
#22
Landing is not optional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 43

You are right, in flying landing is not optional. It's been my experience with the .25 size planes that you can fly with some wind and not worry so much about landing. I really like the convenience of the 400 size planes and most parkflyers but I cannot sit around and wait for the wind to calm down.
#24
Think I can fix it?
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Posts: 766

Steve
#25

I like to convert the 1/2A up to .15 slimers to electric. Nice size, but still will run on my current equipment. Shown is my Kadetito 1/2A conversion running on an eflite park 400, CC25, 2100ma 3s1p lipo and my Cleveland Air Racer running a eflite park 480, CC35, 3000ma 3s1p lipo.