diverdon

Hello all , Has anyone tried to turn the prop shaft around on this motor ?? It looks like it should be able to be done .. I see a small circlip and a set screw ..

I would like to have the shaft come out the other side which would be the bell side . I see how Turnigy wants the motor used there are 2 ways to use it in the configuration it comes in .

But of course I want to us it a different way .. Like all of the other bell type outrunners I have ever used ... With the shaft coming out on the side where the bell is ..

Thank You all for your help , Don J.

powerlines

I have not seen that motor. BUT I have changed several.. It's straight forward... Easy really.. Sometime the allen est screws give you trouble but not too bad..

LATER

diverdon

Hi Powerlines ,

So do you just take out the set screw and the circlip then remove the shaft ? I did that and got the motor into 2 pieces .. 1 with the "bell" and shaft in it .. I tapped on the shaft pretty good and it didn't budge ... I did'nt want to pound too hard without knowing for sure if that's the way to remove it ..

So do I have it right ??? Just try a little harder ?? little oil penatrate it with oil ?? Maybe a little heat to loosen it ??

Thanks , Don

Dr Kiwi

Press it out, DON'T pound it!

And make sure the shaft has not been machined so that one section is thicker than another - in that case it can only be pressed in one direction. [I don't know about Turnigy, but a Grayson motor I had had a 3.2mm shaft turned down to 3mm for the front bearing... it could only go out one way!].

ministeve2003

didn't your motor come with the turnigy prop mount for the other side? You don't need to use the shaft it just sticks out behind your motor... and is protected from bending....

SK

Reddog

I'm wanting to do the same thing to this 2627-1200. The supplied prop mount screws into the same end that the shaft sticks out of? The only way I can see to do it is to reverse the shaft, but then I wont have a groove for the clip and doubt that the flat for the set screw will be in the right place.
Dick

ministeve2003

the adaptor fits in the opposite end.... you mount it the other way against the firewall...

SK

groundrushesup

Flat for the set screw? That is what a bench grinder is for

I have a couple of hacker clones that came in the same orientation that your motor did - one I have modified with the locking collar as I said before and the other is stock.

First pic is your motor. You want it to look like the second pic, right? the problem is that - if you see in the second pic there is a little protrusion of the shaft on the backside (right of motor body). If you don't have a groove there to add a retaining clip, your only option to secure the bell housing is to push the shaft back through the motor body and add the collar with the hex screw to it. Otherwise you risk having the front part come off in flight, which is never in the 'bueno' category.

If I remember I will snap so pics of my hacker clones when I get home - one a before and one an after.

Reddog

Thanks again, GRU.
I intended to do as you say, but now I have another problem. I can't get the set screw out? I've rounded off two 1.5 mm Allen wrenches. It must have some extra good LocTite on it. I'm just going to use another motor on this plane and use this one in the intended way on a different plane.
I appreciate your help!
Dick

Pickle72

LOL, I had a head scratching moment with my Turnigy. I needed to reverse my shaft so I took it all apart (with just a little tapping) and put it back together so the shaft sticks out the other end. Then I realized that the shaft has no way to be secured. Dumbfounded I stood back and scratched my head. I noticed the bag of parts that came with it and noticed the prop adapter for the first time. It bolts to the oppisite side!!! Duh So I put it all back together how it was and now all is right as rain.
LOL, moral of the story check out your parts bag before you go taking apart a perfectly good motor.

Matt


P.S. Reddog, just cut the ends off the allen wrech when they get rounded. I don't know why they don't make these out of harder steel so they don't round but when they do just chop off with your cut off wheel.
Even worse in my book are philips head screws that strip out!!! I don't know how many times I have to finish setting the screw with a pare of plyers.

pvtzemerak

I ordered a 28-26 16A 1900Kv Brushless Outrunner, and the shaft needs to be reversed for it to be used in a pusher jet.
I noticed there is a Tiny Hex screw that is hold the saft, so i took it out, but the shaft still stays in place, I dont feel like tapping it out, but how have you guys done it?
--PvT

Pickle72

Tap it out out carefully without metal on metal contact. Use a piece of wood to beat on it. If it wont come out stick it in the freezer.

Dr Kiwi

Do not try to tap it out....you may distort the bell... press it out using a vice/vise.

pvtzemerak

So then
All i have to do is remove the Hex screw? Theres nothing else i have to do?

MustangMan

The motors are generally designed to be a light press fit. Once any set screws are removed you should be able to move the shaft by pressing in a vice. For small motors I prefer to use a drill press because I feel I have better control of the force. I usually use a small wood block with a hole drilled through it to support the motor while pressing on the shaft.

Tapping is definitely a bad idea. The impact force is very bad for the bearings and will likely damage them. Also, the shocks from hammer blows can weaken the magnets and/or knock them loose.