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Guillows Cessna 170 RC conversion

Old 02-04-2008, 02:18 AM
  #51  
Bill G
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On the window material, the weight really matters. I started buying 2'x2' sheets, when my LHS finally started stocking them. They have Sig, in various thicknesses. I buy the lightest stuff. I got onto this, when I weighed a 5" WWII canopy with the thicker type of clear plastic, and it was something like 9 grams. That thick crap really weighs.
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Old 02-10-2008, 05:18 AM
  #52  
constantCrash
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Default Just some more pictures

I started covering the fuse today. Not done but getting close. I picked up a trim iron and a heat gun last weekend, Wow does having the right tools for the job really help. (of course that's one of my mottos.)

Anyway, I apparently didn't take any pics of the covering yet, but I will. In the mean time here's some picks of the motormount, servos, reciever, ESC, and the little bit of sheeting I did so that the push rods are supported.
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Old 02-10-2008, 06:20 AM
  #53  
Bgnome
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looking good! can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:59 PM
  #54  
constantCrash
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Default Almost ready for maiden

On my last post I forgot to explain what I thought was a good idea for adding thrust angle. Instead of using washers etc. for spacers I cut some chunks out of some fuel tubing I have and used that. the fuel tubing can be squished until you've got it where you want and I can pretend it offers some vibration control .

Anyway, covering is done enough to allow flight. I managed to burn a nice big hole in the bottom of the wing while trying to get the twist out. Pics are of the hole after cutting it out and then repaired. I'm not going to put the windows, decals, cowl, details on until after I prove it flys. If it doesn't fly I'll finish it anyway and make it a wall flower.

I used the tail wheel from a super cub, I was going to attach it to the rudder but decided at this size It probably dosn't need to steer and it looks more scale attached to the body. I apparently have an obsession with over sized wheels, because the stock ones just looked to small for me, so I dug in my wheel drawr and found some 2 inch wheels. I don't think i'll use them because they weigh 4 grams total but I think it looks better with big wheels.

As is without battery (or wheels) it weighs exactly 4.0 oz the same as my 19" wingspan COX zero. With battery it's 5.5 oz

I'm confident of the physics of its weight, but unfortunately I did not build this very straight. The tail is slightly warped, the elevator is not perfectly centered, which limits the rudder input (I still think there is more than enough throw ether way). The wing is slightly thicker on the right side (I apparently sanded the left side more), and the wheels are crooked.

Oh the tail hinges are tyvek from a fed-ex envelope.

The CG ends up being spot on without battery, SO that means I have to put the battery right under the CG instead of in the nice cubby hole I built for it.

As soon as I find some wheels I like, It will be maiden time.

Oh and for no reason, I had my heli's lined up so I took a picture.


Anyway pics attached.
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:06 PM
  #55  
pd1
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If it fly's half as good as it looks you've got a winner.

You really do like large wheels.

Paul
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Old 02-17-2008, 10:21 PM
  #56  
constantCrash
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I have 3" wheels on my super cub. I just really like the "bush plane" look.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:43 PM
  #57  
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Just mesured amps: little over 3 amps WOT. 35-40 watts
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:38 PM
  #58  
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Very nicely done constantCrash. The covering job looks great too man. First time?
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:04 PM
  #59  
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Yes, this is my first balsa build i ever finished. (I had a Guilllows p40 or something when i was in grade school, but it never got finished).

This is also my first time covering an open structure. I covered my HZ super cub and Spitfire but this is my first balsa. I really like the covering I used on this "Solite" as it's easy to work with and shrinks nicely.

Now if only the wind would die down so I could maiden it.
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:08 PM
  #60  
pburt1975
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I like it man. Looks like a nicely built plane and should fly great.

Have you worked out the CG yet? I know the tiny spitfire has 2 CG points, 1 for rubber flight and 1 for teathered, is it the same with that kit?
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:21 PM
  #61  
constantCrash
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This one only has one CG point, slightly in front of the "B" pillar. Blance is spot on with or without battery.

I've learned a lot from this build:
how to cut pieces properly,
how to use as little glue as possible,
that I need to pay more attention to making sure things are straight. (every former except the first one is slightly askew.)
how to cover an open structure
how much heat guns rock
how to not get frustraited when you keep breaking stringers.
how not to set up torque rods for ailerons.

It is fun to build slowly. I can't wait to start the next one (Thomas Moor scout), but it will have to wait until this one is 100% done, and my other project (foam Cessna 337) is done.
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:00 PM
  #62  
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I had a problem on the formers too. Not with the first side I put on, but when I did the second, not having a way to square them up and hold their place have a few that are not so true.
Also had the trouble removing and notching the formers. When I tried it like the book showed (pressing the tip of the exacto into the precut slot) I broke 3 of them. What ended up working very well was to cut from the edge of the piece into the notch. Setup like you were going to saw into the notch. Just put the blade over the line and rock it back and forth with pressure. Cuts to the line and I didnt break a single one after that.
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:54 AM
  #63  
3drupture
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Default Cessna170

Im also doing the same 170..Mine is up to 4.0 oz.It should weigh in at 4.5 ready to fly..Im running the same battery as yours..Here is a pic of it sitting on top of the biggest electric I have done..It is my scratch (not a kit) Sunderland seaplane..121/2 foot span..
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:31 AM
  #64  
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Hey just a question on the squareness situation that you mentioned. I noticed you said something about having formers for certain parts of the build. Are they usually included as part of the plans?

Im waiting on my plans to arrive for my first build so i dont know if there are any guides for making the formers within the plans.

Any suggestions on keeping everything straight and true to the plans?

I'm very technically inclined, but this is my first build so im looking into finding out as much as possible from what you guys have learned from doing scratch builds. For example, getting everything true, right amount of glue, any common problems when building etc.?

Thanks!!
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:11 PM
  #65  
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Setting formers on Guillows kits.

I had some scrap metal blocks from a machine shop.

The blocks are square and when placed on either side of a former, keep the former square and positioned while the glue dries.

Here's a couple of pictures of the blocks.
The blocks are holding ribs in place and cross pieces.
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After the first half of the formers are dry, lift the formers and keel assembly off the plans.

Use some scrap balsa, some ends of stringers work fine to go width wise across the formers.

Here's a shot of the former cross pieces.
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These formers are already connected, it's a different type of construction.

The stringer piece should be long enough to cross both formers halves.

Glue them to the former halves and they will align the second former half to the first.
They will also add some strength to the completed former.

Paul
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:49 PM
  #66  
constantCrash
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That is one big electric, and one chaotic workshop

what's your 170 like? 3-4 channel? motor? looks like the same covering as mine.

Originally Posted by 3drupture View Post
Im also doing the same 170..Mine is up to 4.0 oz.It should weigh in at 4.5 ready to fly..Im running the same battery as yours..Here is a pic of it sitting on top of the biggest electric I have done..It is my scratch (not a kit) Sunderland seaplane..121/2 foot span..
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:28 PM
  #67  
3drupture
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Default c170

I went with 3ch. Rud,ele and throt..I used JR super micro servos.I started out with the geared tail unit from a small heli..Its very light but the motor burned out fast..lol..Im switching to the e-flite 170 outrunner,its the same weight.The servos are mounted right on the CG.Battery is just ahead of CG,JR micro RX sits right aft the CG..ESC is aft CG as well..It all bal. just right as far as CG goes..I think the covering was top flight ultra light film..Something like .6 oz per sq yrd..or sq foot..My hobby room is a mess,im always building something..lol.But I do know where every little thing is in it..Im thinking about doing the 34 inch Stuka next..It looks like a good one for RC...My C170 will be ready for flight this weekend..
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:45 PM
  #68  
constantCrash
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Default Maiden Flight

The 170 has been awaiting maiden for a while now, and yesterday was good enough that I couldn't wait any longer. Winds were mostly 1-2 but gusts at 8 but it was warm, sunny, and i was with friends so it was time to try.

I did my maiden over the football field at the local high school.
Taxi tests showed that making the tail wheel non-steerable was a bad idea as the rudder has no authority to override the tail wheel. Slow speed takeoffs were proving a problem without tail control so, I pointed the nose into the wind and hammered the throttle. It jumped off the ground in about a foot, flying straight and steady. It got altitude faster than I anticipated quickly rising to the hight of the goal posts. I did a right hand turn to head over the field then a left hand turn around the top of a goalpost (not intentional). Then a gust of wind hit, the plane dropped a wingtip into the wind and my aileron controls had WAY to much throw so I almost lost it. I managed to recover and cut the throttle while pushing the nose to the ground. I just wanted it in (near to) one piece at this point. I got it mostly leveled off just before it hit the grass and kartwheeled.

The landing gear broke but that was the only damage.

The good:
The CG was spot on.
Enough power to go vertical (probably unlimited)
servos are working great.

The broken:
Needs better landing gear.
Tail wheel needs to be steerable.

All in all I'm happy with my first RC build / RC conversion I'll start work fixing and putting the final details on this week.
When I re-build another of this model I'm going to make some changes:
1) scale rudder
2) sheet the fuse. It was so light on it's wings and the motor had so much throw that I feel I could add another ounce and actually improve the flyability.
3) removable, wire landing gear.

Last edited by constantCrash; 04-21-2008 at 08:17 PM. Reason: correct some of my bad english.
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:22 PM
  #69  
BMitchely
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Looks And Sounds Great, I have started a Guillows Piper Super Cub 95, the build by number job. I have built at least 10 of these little guys, so I do not believe I will have to much trouble with a conversion.
A tip about the Guillows balsa, (sorry ghost of Paul) it aint so great. I use Balsa USA, Midwest, or cut my own planks. You can get a 2x4 plank about 3 feet long from Aircraft Spurce for about $15.00...
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