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CX2 gear issues and other questions

Old 06-26-2008, 06:05 AM
  #1  
SweetChuck
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Default CX2 gear issues and other questions

Hello,

I recently purchased a Blade CX2 and have one critical issue and several questions. I will list the questions first.

My Heli came with a 3 in 1 controller instead of a 4 in 1. Should I care about this?

Has anyone tried using the preflight simulator with the CX2 handset? Is it a good simulator?

Do you recommend adding a extended shaft for the upper rotors to reduce blade strike? If so what/who do you recommend?

Do you recommend replacing the fly bar with a carbon one. I hear they don't bend. The stock fly bar has been bent and I have straightened it. I don't know how critical it is to be prefect.

Encase you are wondering. I haven't had any serious crashes. I have had to replace two lower rotors but that is it so far.

My issue that I am having involves the entire shaft assembly. It has dropped to a point were the gears barely engage the motor pinions. I am seeing wear on the gears do to this and the motors are starting to spin without turning the gears. It looks like there is enough left on the gear teeth if I can figure out how to adjust the shaft assembly. I can pull up on the shaft assembly to realign it but I don't know how to adjust it permenantly. Any ideas?

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:30 AM
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HeliG
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SweetChuck,
Welcome to WattFlyer. You will find tons of stuff on the CX2 by searching the site but since I spent a lot of time with my CX2 before going to a T-rex, I'll help where I can.

1. If you bought the heli new, the proper controller will be there.
2. You won't need a simulator for the CX2. It flies for everyone right out of the box. BUT, please note that this is a small, light, indoor heli. It won't work well outdoors. It tends to get blown around like a leaf.
3. I wouldn't worry about blade strike. You'll find that you have to get quite aggressive to have a strike.
4. Flybars can be bent back several times before replacement. I wouldn't change them. When it doesn't fly well anymore because of the flybar (looks more like a twisty straw) then replace it.
5. Buy lots of blades and get the aluminum upper and lower heads.
6. The outer shaft is held in place with a locking ring that is tightened above the bearing. If it didn't get set correctly, it will drop. If you've already lost teeth, replace it and make sure you have that ring on there properly. Is it possible that you've lost the ring that I'm talking about? Once screwed on, it should be stable. And no, you don't need loctite. Just snug it down well!
** You could really spend a lot upgrading the CX2 but it is a great little heli as it stands (apart from the need for aluminum heads). Use the CX2 as an addiction starter and then look at getting something bigger for advancing and using outdoors. I handed my CX2 down to my oldest son (10) and now he's asking what his next heli will be.
When you upgrade to another heli then go and buy yourself a good simulator. I have RealFlight G4 and it helped more than I could have imagined. It is great to practice inverted stuff before trying it in real life too. The $200 for the sim has been easily saved in parts.

Let us know if you have any other questions. Again, welcome to the site.

Warren.
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Old 06-26-2008, 01:49 PM
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Hostile
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Having the little CX2 myself, I would agree with heliG except for 1 thing. IMHO, you just need the "swing blade" style blades, with all plastic parts. Those aluminum parts weigh more.

You will crash, so fly over tall grass, and use a box for a heliport. When you crash, the grass will catch it. Saved my CX2 several times.
The #1 parts to have on hand is: Unbreakable landing gear, Carbon fiber tail boom, Swing blades, maybe another Batt. so you don't have to wait on it to charge. These will be the most likely things to break on it. Its a tough little bird though.

You will like it. It's very forgiving, You will find it very easy to hover. Getting it to fly takes some doing though as it just likes to hover. Thats were all the other parts like the short fly bar, longer shaft come in, but if you are just starting, your a long way from needing them yet.
GL! Happy flying!
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Old 06-26-2008, 08:55 PM
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SweetChuck
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Thanks for replying guys. Near as I can tell I'm not missing the locking ring or collar. Above the bearing I see the collar. The bearing and collar are flush against the bottom of the swatsh plate. If I loosen the screw on the collar I can not move it up or down on the shaft.

With shaft assembly pulled all the way up so that the gear wheels are in the correct postition I can see where collar and bearing are both above the top of the black tube or shaft of the heli's frame. Is this correct? i would think the bearings should be in the frames black shaft. Not on top of it.

Any additional thoughts?

Thanks,
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:33 PM
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SweetChuck
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additional info, I have removed the inner shaft. all rotors, swatsh plate and loosened the coller and slid it up the outer shaft. I an not get the outer shaft bearing to move up or down the shaft. Could the shaft have gotten hot and warped? Not sure what to do now.
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Old 06-26-2008, 10:12 PM
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Hostile
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Originally Posted by SweetChuck View Post
additional info, I have removed the inner shaft. all rotors, swatsh plate and loosened the coller and slid it up the outer shaft. I an not get the outer shaft bearing to move up or down the shaft. Could the shaft have gotten hot and warped? Not sure what to do now.
I'm thinking that it's not the top collar that is the problem ,but the one on the lower gear that holds it on. They tend to loosen, and slide down. Causing the lower gear to ride low on its motor.
As far as the upper shaft? Not having my heli in front of me, I think that you have a collar just above the black bearing housing. The bearing should be seated in this housing, and the collar holds it all in place.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:06 PM
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Heli Jim
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make sure that the bearing that is inside the inner shaft near the bottom is seated into the gear completely. IF not this could cause your problems.
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Old 06-27-2008, 03:27 AM
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SweetChuck
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Hello, thanks for the responses. I decided to tear the CX2 down to figure out what was going on. It looks like the upper collar slippedup the outer shaft enough that the upper bearing pack rode out of the frame shaft. This in turn allowed the whole shaft assemble to fall away from the bottom of the frame.

New Question, I purchased the replacement inter shaft gear and outer shaft/gear assembly. I assume that I couldn't just buy the outer gear only as the hobby shop didn't sell it. Anyhow, While moving the bearing and washer from the old outer shaft to the new on I noticed that there is some sort of lube on both sides of the washer. Is this simply graphite or something else. Can some one also run me through what I should be lubing on this heli?

Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 06-27-2008, 02:56 PM
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Heli Jim
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you would want to lube the bearings for the two shafts. There are four in all.
You can put a little on the large gears but it just gets thrown off and then attracts
dirt so I would just stick with the four bearings
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Old 06-27-2008, 05:05 PM
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SweetChuck
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Guys,

Do I use Graphite as the lube or something else? I guess I just add it to the top and bottom of the bearing packs? I.E. I can't take them apart can I?

When mounting the lower rotor head to the outer shaft I noticed two holes in the middle or the uper shaft. should two of the screws from the lower rotor head assembly match up to these holes? If not then how do you know what height to set the lower rotor head at?

Thanks!
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Old 06-28-2008, 01:22 PM
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Hostile
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Originally Posted by SweetChuck View Post
Guys,

Do I use Graphite as the lube or something else? I guess I just add it to the top and bottom of the bearing packs? I.E. I can't take them apart can I?

When mounting the lower rotor head to the outer shaft I noticed two holes in the middle or the uper shaft. should two of the screws from the lower rotor head assembly match up to these holes? If not then how do you know what height to set the lower rotor head at?

Thanks!
If it were me, I'd use fishing reel grease. Also wouldn't put grease on the plastic parts. It will soften the plastic. The bearings are sealed, so you won't be able to pack them, but you can put a dab on top, and on the little washers. should help.
As far as the holes, they all line up. I'm not to sure what you are asking, but the lower rotor head bolts to the shaft with four screws in the holes.
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Old 06-28-2008, 01:47 PM
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Heli Jim
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Yes, the two holes are there to get the allignment of the lower rotor head correct.
Two of the screws go thru the head and into these holes.
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:30 PM
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SweetChuck
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thanks everyone for your responses. I have the CX2 up and flying again. Working on my landings now. I'm down to being able to land in a 5 foot circle!
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Old 12-26-2008, 07:40 PM
  #14  
Jonny00444
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Default Forward travel query

I'm totally new to flying helicopters and the Cx2 was my first buy about three weeks ago. I reckon I've made every mistake going so far, but I'm coming up the learning curve nicely. HeliG's advice is spot on. Two batteries today, and I'm flying circles and hovering nicely. Got to watch the altitude though - it loves to go high. Last week I'm embarrassed to say that it got to about 300 hundred feet, the wind took it, and I had to bail about 100 yards from the take off spot. The landing was hard but it survived, unbelievably. It brings me to my question. I'm worried that even at full throttle it doesn't travel forward as much as I'd like it to and this becomes a problem because it can't travel upwind even in the lightest breeze. Is this something I can modify, or is it a function of a light (but great fun entry level) helicopter?

Last edited by Jonny00444; 02-25-2009 at 10:00 AM.
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