Venom Night Ranger 3D
#151
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 64

Jay
Thanks for the tip I have one on the way along with some better japanese screw drivers. Have you ever used those?
About the crash its enough to make me teary eyed! You should be able to pass around a collection hat when that happens. LOL
Thanks for the tip I have one on the way along with some better japanese screw drivers. Have you ever used those?
About the crash its enough to make me teary eyed! You should be able to pass around a collection hat when that happens. LOL
#152

Zap,
I have used screwdrivers from all over the world
Kidding aside though, It really helps to have high quaility screw and hex drivers when working on helicopters, micros especially. Using cheap tools will only result in stripped screws and fasteners. That is money well spent. As a equipment mechanic I have more money in snap-on tools than I have into all of my models. When I first met my wife she could not believe the money I spent/spend on tools. I have a drawer in my tool box that I keep all of my tool reciepts in every tool I have bought in the last twenty years. It is substantial but it is my job. And cheap tools will only cause you problems!
As far as the heli crash goes, it was my own fault, I thought the engine was going to die and I panicked and tried to roll the helicopter over at way to low of an altitude and it went sub-terra. I was just happy it didn't take out my 1/8 scale race truck as well. I would have cried then, right there in front of all my racing buddies. I have a couple of pictures of the whole thing around here somewhere, I will scan and post them.
Take care,
Jay
I have used screwdrivers from all over the world


As far as the heli crash goes, it was my own fault, I thought the engine was going to die and I panicked and tried to roll the helicopter over at way to low of an altitude and it went sub-terra. I was just happy it didn't take out my 1/8 scale race truck as well. I would have cried then, right there in front of all my racing buddies. I have a couple of pictures of the whole thing around here somewhere, I will scan and post them.
Take care,
Jay
#153

Well I finally did it. I just ordered CF blades, tail boom and struts, and a new tail motor ( just went out). Yeah, I got really lucky and had it on the ground when it went-out. Gettin real close to the brushless setup. By the way, RCBoyz in ebay has the brushless setup for $80, that's free next-day shipping and a sixxer when compared to venoms price

#154
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 5

Hello All,
Brand new VNR3D today, and a few questions:
First off, when the battery is installed, it touched the bottom of the main rotor gear, part # 7723 (wore off the batter covering even) I know this ain't right, so how do I move this up?
Also one of the flybar paddles, part # 7710 moves on the bar. I suppose I could just line it up and glue it firm.
Also when I was tracking the main blades, I placed a board across the main gear and clamped the board down. As I was spinning up, near 40% throttle I get MAJOR vibration... if it's unclamped it's fine, I can spin up to just about hover, but clamped down it's serious.
Finally, as I'm spinning up, and try to keep the tail straight, at some point giving left rudder the tail acutally stops spinning... is this normal?
Thanks for all your help
pirellip
Brand new VNR3D today, and a few questions:
First off, when the battery is installed, it touched the bottom of the main rotor gear, part # 7723 (wore off the batter covering even) I know this ain't right, so how do I move this up?
Also one of the flybar paddles, part # 7710 moves on the bar. I suppose I could just line it up and glue it firm.
Also when I was tracking the main blades, I placed a board across the main gear and clamped the board down. As I was spinning up, near 40% throttle I get MAJOR vibration... if it's unclamped it's fine, I can spin up to just about hover, but clamped down it's serious.
Finally, as I'm spinning up, and try to keep the tail straight, at some point giving left rudder the tail acutally stops spinning... is this normal?
Thanks for all your help
pirellip
#155
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 36

Hi, I'm new to helis, but have been flying on a simulator for quite some time. I have recently purchased a VNR3D, built a training set out of dowel and have been trying to hover. But, no matter how i set the gyro the tail will still twich uncontrollably. I crashed this morning as a result. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
My battery also touched the bottom of the main gear, and i think i fixed it by loosening the main mast collar (venf-7727), pushing the main gear up (quite hardly) and then tightening the screw again.
My battery also touched the bottom of the main gear, and i think i fixed it by loosening the main mast collar (venf-7727), pushing the main gear up (quite hardly) and then tightening the screw again.
#156
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 20

Hi to all,
Could someone have a look at this simulator to see if may be ok to start with as it is cheap and may be better than none,THANKS.
Should this be posted in a different way,not too sure on posting and threads and sticky things yet.
Could someone have a look at this simulator to see if may be ok to start with as it is cheap and may be better than none,THANKS.
Should this be posted in a different way,not too sure on posting and threads and sticky things yet.
#157
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 20
#158
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 5

from the looks of it it's FMS. fms is pretty crappy rc sim.
yea it's good for basic heli movements but other than that you wont learn much on it.
FMS is actually free so what you're paying for is ths rc controller.
if you want you can just buy a usb analog controller for pc and use FMS. same thing just smaller controller.
yea it's good for basic heli movements but other than that you wont learn much on it.
FMS is actually free so what you're paying for is ths rc controller.
if you want you can just buy a usb analog controller for pc and use FMS. same thing just smaller controller.
#159
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 83

Pirellip,
1) "First off, when the battery is installed, it touched the bottom of the main rotor gear, part # 7723 (wore off the batter covering even) I know this ain't right, so how do I move this up?"
Take two stips of self adhesive velcro and attach it to the bottom of the aluminum frame (parallel to the length of the helicopter). Apply the mating side of the velcro to battery. This will keep the battery from shifting and also give it just enough space so that it never comes into contact with the bottom of the main shaft/collare/etc.
2) "Also one of the flybar paddles, part # 7710 moves on the bar. I suppose I could just line it up and glue it firm."
Does it twist on the flybar, or slide lengthwise. I have not had the paddles off yet, but I think that they just twist on. The paddles must be secure from both a control standpoint and a safetly standpoint.
3)"Also when I was tracking the main blades, I placed a board across the main gear and clamped the board down. As I was spinning up, near 40% throttle I get MAJOR vibration... if it's unclamped it's fine, I can spin up to just about hover, but clamped down it's serious. "
Why was the main gear (I assume landing gear?) clamped to a board? This probably created a harmonic which caused the vibration (this happens with training gear sometimes also"
Little Green Man,
Try movint the PZT knob (Pitch Zero Trim) towards "+". Do it a little at a time. I did this on the advice of the Venom Rep, and it cured the nose twitching on mine (I tried turning the gyro down also, with the same results as you-no effect).
iishort,
How goes it?
1) "First off, when the battery is installed, it touched the bottom of the main rotor gear, part # 7723 (wore off the batter covering even) I know this ain't right, so how do I move this up?"
Take two stips of self adhesive velcro and attach it to the bottom of the aluminum frame (parallel to the length of the helicopter). Apply the mating side of the velcro to battery. This will keep the battery from shifting and also give it just enough space so that it never comes into contact with the bottom of the main shaft/collare/etc.
2) "Also one of the flybar paddles, part # 7710 moves on the bar. I suppose I could just line it up and glue it firm."
Does it twist on the flybar, or slide lengthwise. I have not had the paddles off yet, but I think that they just twist on. The paddles must be secure from both a control standpoint and a safetly standpoint.
3)"Also when I was tracking the main blades, I placed a board across the main gear and clamped the board down. As I was spinning up, near 40% throttle I get MAJOR vibration... if it's unclamped it's fine, I can spin up to just about hover, but clamped down it's serious. "
Why was the main gear (I assume landing gear?) clamped to a board? This probably created a harmonic which caused the vibration (this happens with training gear sometimes also"
Little Green Man,
Try movint the PZT knob (Pitch Zero Trim) towards "+". Do it a little at a time. I did this on the advice of the Venom Rep, and it cured the nose twitching on mine (I tried turning the gyro down also, with the same results as you-no effect).
iishort,
How goes it?
#165

I would give them a call and tell them whats up and ask if they want the led or the whole Helicopter back. They will probably swap you or give you a new 4 in 1 unit. It is obviously a factory defect, it should not be a problem. I hope you get it fixed soon.Here is their phone number(800) 705-0620
Jay
Jay
#168

Sorry LGM, I didn't see that you are in AU. Like Roachie said, I'd try the shop where you bought it and let them deal with shipping matters. The number I posted for them is a toll free number. I don't know if "Toll free" is free from there or not.. Best of luck.
Cheers,
Jay
Cheers,
Jay
#170
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 5

I drilled a small hole then threded them in on both the blade grips and see saw arms. CAed them after I had screwed them in for good measure.
Took it out for a whirl, and hovered for a small amount of time. Became distracted when a mother let her young son run over to the heli, and caught a blade on the ground. The ball ends are fine, but I snapped off the see saw arm pin (the plastic part then you melt)
The next step is to replace that part with a metal screw, as I've seen done before, and try again...
#171
New Member Will Do
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Armidale NSW. Australia
Posts: 18

Wouldn't you know it the balls I ordered on the Internet last night.....are out of stock...bugger...rang them and changed the order to another brand (Dubro)....but whats the bet the new parts from Venom turn up before the Balls do?
Anyway got my old trusty NRII to fly....up to the horse centre again for about an hours theropy before dark.......aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh that feels better
Anyway got my old trusty NRII to fly....up to the horse centre again for about an hours theropy before dark.......aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh that feels better
#172
Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 83

Brushless Upgrade:
I just flew three flights with the Brushless motor/ESC upgrade. I was very cautious on the first flight, as I wanted to check the flight duration and look for a performance drop, prior to the cut-off on the ESC kicking in (posters on another forum had suggested that the cut-off might be a problem-as it turns out, it was not).
There is a noticeable , but not huge, drop in power (I usually punch the throttle occasionally during the flight to see if the rate of climb changes) after about 10 minutes (running a 1000 mah, 3S Honeybee pack). I took this as the indication that it was time to land.
I never did have the Cut-Off kick in.
On the second flight I punched it, and flew it around in FFF. The throttle curve is different and somewhat difficult to explain. The brushless motor starts at a higher throttle stick setting and the power curve seems to be flatter-lots of torque and no bogging of the main rotor head in high G turns at high throttle. A big improvement here.
Along with the increase in power, there is a change in performance with the brushless upgrade and the CF blades. It is difficult to separate the change caused by the Brushless Upgrade vs. the CF blades. The CG is slightly further forward with the ESC and wiring mounted under the 4-in-1 and inside of the canopy (which is, by the way, a pretty tight fit). The helicopter is smoother and handles somewhat better, both in the hover and in FFF. I suspect that part of this is due to the slight weight increase and the forward CG. I also think part of it is due to the stiffeness of the CF blades.
I was unable to fly the CF blades more than a couple of times with the old motor as the motor was wearing out and its performance we degrading significantly. The little that I flew it, the handling was better and quicker, but more proportional to control inputs.
As the tail motor is still the original, and now has 40 flights on it, I am going to replace it now, rather than tempt fate. There is no sign of weakness or performance degradation at the moment.
I just flew three flights with the Brushless motor/ESC upgrade. I was very cautious on the first flight, as I wanted to check the flight duration and look for a performance drop, prior to the cut-off on the ESC kicking in (posters on another forum had suggested that the cut-off might be a problem-as it turns out, it was not).
There is a noticeable , but not huge, drop in power (I usually punch the throttle occasionally during the flight to see if the rate of climb changes) after about 10 minutes (running a 1000 mah, 3S Honeybee pack). I took this as the indication that it was time to land.
I never did have the Cut-Off kick in.
On the second flight I punched it, and flew it around in FFF. The throttle curve is different and somewhat difficult to explain. The brushless motor starts at a higher throttle stick setting and the power curve seems to be flatter-lots of torque and no bogging of the main rotor head in high G turns at high throttle. A big improvement here.
Along with the increase in power, there is a change in performance with the brushless upgrade and the CF blades. It is difficult to separate the change caused by the Brushless Upgrade vs. the CF blades. The CG is slightly further forward with the ESC and wiring mounted under the 4-in-1 and inside of the canopy (which is, by the way, a pretty tight fit). The helicopter is smoother and handles somewhat better, both in the hover and in FFF. I suspect that part of this is due to the slight weight increase and the forward CG. I also think part of it is due to the stiffeness of the CF blades.
I was unable to fly the CF blades more than a couple of times with the old motor as the motor was wearing out and its performance we degrading significantly. The little that I flew it, the handling was better and quicker, but more proportional to control inputs.
As the tail motor is still the original, and now has 40 flights on it, I am going to replace it now, rather than tempt fate. There is no sign of weakness or performance degradation at the moment.
#173
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Roswell, NM
Posts: 8

Been sick as a dog with RA and haven't been able to do much of anything except lay in bed. I'm getting back on my feet and hope to have my heli back from Venom later next week. I replaced parts and got pretty good at taking it apart and putting it back together,(by myself even!) but just couldn't get it trimmed and there was some vibration I couldn't find the source of. So... off to the heli docs for a check up.

In the meantime, I've been catching up on all the threads and have to say it's a breath of fresh air to come over here! Respectful discussions, tales of flight time and tech advice are much easier and pleasant to read than wading through some of these threads that have turned into bashfests. Anyway, I sure am looking forward to some flight time. I even went to a link recommended for "flight lessons" and printed it out. I think it will really help me. If anyone wants the link, I'll dig it up. The guy has a GREAT sense of humor and some excellent tips! I had a great time working on my heli and gaining a better understanding of how things work, even though I didn't get it flight ready. When it gets back, I will be going AWOL on my obligations for a while so I get to play, lol. Being a redhead makes it hard to behave for very long and I'm overdue!

#174
New Member Will Do
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Armidale NSW. Australia
Posts: 18

Hi Juli good to hear your getting it together.....hair colour doesn't have much to do with this little addiction of ours.....but I guess it must help LOL
I agree its nice to get a site where you don't need flame proof garments to participate..heehh....and get some encouragement to get the heli doing what U want it to do...
Keep on keeping on..
I agree its nice to get a site where you don't need flame proof garments to participate..heehh....and get some encouragement to get the heli doing what U want it to do...
Keep on keeping on..
#175
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Roswell, NM
Posts: 8

Thanks Roachie,
It's great to be feeling better and I'm enjoying the heck out of reading everyone's escapades with their helis. I'm amazed at how much I have learned since starting this hobby/addiction! I can't wait till my heli comes back to apply what I've learned.
It's great to be feeling better and I'm enjoying the heck out of reading everyone's escapades with their helis. I'm amazed at how much I have learned since starting this hobby/addiction! I can't wait till my heli comes back to apply what I've learned.