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Parkzone Spitfire- Rebuild /Dx6i /CF rods /Wing clip

Old 07-13-2008, 11:15 AM
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LectricPlane
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Talking Parkzone Spitfire- Rebuild /Dx6i /CF rods /Wing clip

The first "real" work done on my Parkzone spitfire.
If I have to build on it I might as well make it better!

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Old 07-13-2008, 11:43 AM
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Ok, So I crashed the little birdie.

Now here's how it got made stronger.

After I got the wing back into one piece and some little fiddly bits of plastic stuck together I decided to put into sevice the set of carbon arrow shafts a friend kindly donated. (ok I admit I did buy a new spinner & cowling)

Not wanting to cut too much covering to fit the rods(that wasn't already dammaged) I sliced the tips of the wings 2in1 gain! wing clip and a nice entry point for a sharp cf rod. I "implanted" the carbon rods through the wing tips, not quite symetrical, one overlapping and one ending @ the hand hold cutout in the wing. The off-cut from the shorter rod was just the right lenght to fit into the tail at an angle from the last belly hole to the tip of the rudder. NO MORE FLEX, ever. lol. See pictures.

The Dx6i went in easily replacing the stock Tx/Rx with the dual mini reciver and a Castle Creations Pegasus -35P Speed control. Also replaced the servos with Hitec HS-82MG servos, much better quality than the stock ones.

Pictures in the next post.

Last edited by LectricPlane; 03-02-2009 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 12:34 PM
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Default Pictures from the wing rebuild


Make a nice sharp pint to help slice the rods into the wing.
Tip: if you make a diagonal point like this it will help with direction control as you push the rod in.


Not that easy to get it in straight!


Where they ended up. :-)


I put in a horizontal cross brace to complete it all.



And now it looks like this!

And it flies a lot better. Well I think so anyway. Next - BRUSHLESS
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Old 07-13-2008, 01:27 PM
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Some pics showing the body/ rudder reinforcing rod.


I used a blob of epoxy putty to secure the rod into the last belly hole and then sanded it down once it dried.


Location of the rod inside the fuse = The red line.

I found that the fuse still flexed a little bit so dribbled a bead of titebond wood glue allong each seam and let each one dry over-night.

The biggest challenge was finding the right type of glue to stick this all together with.

OK, so thats about it. No more boring stuff- Back in the Air!
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:58 AM
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pvtzemerak
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lookin good, welcome to wattflyer!
im still wanting that dx6i
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Old 08-08-2008, 10:59 PM
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LectricPlane
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Thanks pv'

Little airtime here lately due to crappy UK weather... Definitely going to have to move somwhere with better weather if this keeps up.

The Dx6i is great, my last radio was a 62Mhz Focus 4... eons apart.
You got yours yet?

I am screaming to try out the new expo rates I programmed in for the spit a few days ago. Does anyone have any tips for these on the PZ spit?
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:33 PM
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Default Stock RPM info

The mods are definitely flying better than the stock setup. The whole plane just feels so much more solid in the air. Although I have noticed the airspeed tends to take a few more meters to bleed off on my usual slightly hot landings.

Some onfo I wanted and could not find = The stock RPM on the spitifire prop is arround 5400RPM - 5500RPM. / Fresh Lipo Battery / Static mounted fuse' . Now I just need to figure out how to calculate airspeed from this.


Has anyone else managed to measure this? I realy struggled to find specs and ended up buying a 10 RMP meter off e-bay - Not sure how accurate....
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Old 08-23-2008, 01:19 AM
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there are many factors that will error you attempt to figure your airspeed off just of RPM and prop pitch. The altitude plays a major factor, the drag that the surface area creates, the charge on the battery and how many volts it delivers under a load, windage, some people would say the color of your plane but don't believe them. (hot pink doesn't make a plane go any faster then if you put flames on it!)
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:47 AM
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radweld
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In order for you to calculate the speed you have to factor in the drag as well and unless you have a wind tunnel, it's not really possible to calculate this.

Your best bet is the old school way of calculating speed by

speed = distance / time

Fly at a fixed speed over a known distance and you can then calculate the speed. Or buy a radar gun lol.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:16 AM
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Default Speed calc

I was figuring I'd just calculate the ballpark figure by using the prop air pitch speed subtract 20% for drag/colour/altitude/battery V/Radio type etc

and then multiply by 20 and divide by number of spectators watching at the time.

That should be close right?

--edit
Works out at about 36mph-20% = 28mph On a flat sea level pass with red decals and a pink spinner.

Last edited by LectricPlane; 08-23-2008 at 10:28 AM. Reason: values calculated
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:36 AM
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Default oops - recalc

oops, forgot the prop is 10x8 not 10x7.

So that gives approx 41mph theoretical air screw speed..
I'd guess more like 30% off that at least - Back to 28mph... Still seems a bit fast.
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Old 08-23-2008, 11:03 AM
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radweld
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30mph is about right. I never bothered to measure the speed on mine. I have a Stryker and it's supposed to do 80mph (thats what I tell everyone) but no way does it look like 80mph though.

I will measure it at some point though.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:02 PM
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Let me know when you do. Is yours still stock?

Is there anyone that has actually measured the spitfire airspeed?

I am thinking of dropping it down allongside a car @ the road next to my field and checking which goes faster. Assuming the cars will be doing speedlimit of 30.
Might be interesting to see the drivers face, lol.
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:39 AM
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Just fly over 100meters and get someone to time it, then you can calculate the meters per second and from this you can convert to miles per hour.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:38 PM
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Talking Brushless motor- Finally Starting to do this!

Hi
I didn't want to start a new thread for this but wanted to share, the bits above are relevant anyway.. I am certain you all have seen at least one or two of these, So here goes.

The motor has been gathering dust in my drawer for 6 months or so... Time to get it on and running!

I started on the mount, pictures below:
Some handy plywood was lying around @work.. (old cable drum)

So I drilled a couple of holes to slip the cowling mounts though and traced the outline of the existing frame over.


Some careful cutting out and a few calcs for the height etc,

Cut 4x 12mm balsa standoffs, measure, measure again

Drilled 4x10mm holes in the ply to fit the 12mm balsa nice and tight.
(I beveled one hole and used it to form the tips down each time before inserting the balsa rod)

A few taps and a bit of pressure got the right angles, Some more measuring tomorrow before the final glue goes in + a few holes for air & wires.

Hopefully the balsa will break and save the motor if I crash badly. Not that that is the plan!
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:19 PM
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HI Lectric:

I'm following your mods with interest. The balsa stand-offs seem like a great solution. Wondering how you're planning to attach the ply firewall to the existing plastic airframe? Like everybody else, I broke the plastic firewall with my Spit's first hard landing and it's been a bit flimsy ever since. Looking at it I can't see any obvious way to fix a new firewall securely to the frame.

Also, what outrunner motor did you settle on?
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:31 PM
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Smile Firewall

Replacement firewall is cheap, easy to install.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PKZ1714
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:54 PM
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You can measure the speed by recording the sound of your plane as it goes over your head, you then use a program the works out the speed based on the Doppler shift.

Check it out here

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...hlight=Doppler
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:36 PM
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dghutt-
Thanks,

I have repaired my firewall a few times. As Gohmer said -Replacement is cheap and easy, I even have a spare... but hey why change it if you can fix it just as good.
I used a few strips of plastic from a magazine dvd cover, cut to 5mm width and bent to reinforce the bits that cracked/ Used cyano to glue after roughing up all the surfaces with a bit of sandpaper on a flat screwdriver tip(This is important otherwise almost no glue will stick to the smooth plastic). I'll post a pic when I get it apart to fit the BL.

To mount it I am going to use the old mounting screws/holes with a bit of epoxy round the edge of the firewall.

I ended up getting a 1450Kv 350W motor... Should have gone for more like a 950Kv in hind sight. No worries though, I will see how she flies and then get a lower Kv for the spit and use this one on a pusher camera plane if it doesn't work out.

Defo going to try that sound-speed stuff once this baby is in the air!
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:29 AM
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Hello Again Lectric!
Yup, ive got my dx6i, ive ue it on 2 planes
Your re-construction looks awesome, im almost thinking of doing one to the parkzone mustang.
Im still trying to figure out how i will do it because ive got a 11.1V 2200 laying around, and an extra full range Rx.
Post some more pictures, im intrested
Have a nice day!
--PvT
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:05 PM
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LectricPlane
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Build Review More buildtime, finally

Hey Pvt, thanks, you inspired me to do some more on this tonight.
I have my dx6i bound to a blade mcx heli and the spitfire... works great with both although it is a bit ott for the mcx, lol.

I finally made some progress towards getting the motor stuck to the airframe. Pics below. Looks like I *%^$ the mount hole alignment so I'll be using epoxy only to glue the firewall to the frame, should be fine.

The first attempt screws (3x16 wood type) to mount the motor to the standoffs looks a bit flimsy now, I may drill the balsa standoffs through and use a 4mm bolt all the way through to the back.

Also some pics of how I repaired the firewall with scrap dvd cover plastic.


Enjoy
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Last edited by LectricPlane; 02-09-2009 at 03:28 PM. Reason: add detail, del wrong info
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:27 AM
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pvtzemerak
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lookin good there Lectric .
I'm trying to find a motor that would work with the prop and spinner that parkzone provides.
Got any ideas?
THanks
--PvT

P.s- im asking early, i dont plan to get this plane till next year
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:53 AM
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next time mount the 4 posts on the airframe and then use a sander (or even just some sand paper and fine ture the mount. This is how i was able to make my motor sit perfectly where the stock one used to.
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:00 PM
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Hmm, Yes DH - That might have been easier, next time. I have gone for a bit less down and right thrust - about 1 or so less.

I have it all back together now. Been measuring COG - balances out at 56mm from the leading edge at the fuse. Realy kicking myself for not measuring this accurately before. I know the manual says 70-67mm but that looks tail heavy to me.
Any advice?

Pics later once I have the cog sorted and the mess packed away.

Last edited by LectricPlane; 01-25-2009 at 08:01 PM. Reason: dyslxexic typing
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:53 PM
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Default All Back together again

Here are some pics of all the pieces assembled.

Notice the two small screws below the exhasts, moved them there and glued the exhasts on permanently, they go into the side of the new ply firewall. Much easier to remove and replace the cowling now.

I have a bit less down and right thrust than the orrigional as you can see from the spacing of the spinner.

I will probably be able to shuffle the reciever & esc round a bit to sort out the cg balance. Tomorrow eve - then I'll be hoping for a rain&wind free day to maiden!

//pvtzemerak
I used http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp to get approx motor performance with different prop sizes. At a guess I'd say you'd need to be somewhere in the 900Kv or lower range to use the stock prop. Honestly though the stock prop is a bit flexi for anything over the stock rpm (5500rpm) and even then it errs on the side of landing friendly rather than performance in the air. My opinion... Get a nicer shinier spinner and a sharper smaller prop (APC are good) to match the motor you choose. Numbers round the 950 - 1100Kv range look good . (Yes I know I have a 1450Kv... :-) ) LOL.
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Last edited by LectricPlane; 01-27-2009 at 08:32 PM. Reason: typing
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