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Cheapie - HK's HUMMER ...

Old 10-16-2015, 09:18 AM
  #51  
solentlife
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In fact the 6gram if Metal Gear would despite some comments be fine ... as the model is usually flown in or near stalled condition.

But the Reactor has good reviews and I reckon you'll be pleased. I don't fly indoors ... so I'm looking for size and presence for outside flying.

Nigel
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:30 AM
  #52  
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Well it is all ready to maiden, in between painting bedroom walls and ceilings.
(Oh, my backs sore darling, I'll just pop out to the workshop for a break)

I had a choice of sevos.
4 x JR NES 371 Analog, or,
4 x Turnigy Digital metal gear and bearing XGD 11MB
Now, the kit comes with 4 extended servo arms, however after trial and error I found that they fitted HXT 500 servos. Now I have some of those but I wasn't going to use them. The arms didn't fit HXT 900s OR any other servo I had, BUT they were a tight fit on the Turnigy Metal gear servos so I went with those. They are 12 grams each and the JRs were 10 grams each so not much difference. Turnigys are a lot quicker too.

I had to cut a hole for the 1000mAh 3S battery but it has all worked out great. I can put some pics up if anyone is interested.
Guided by FrSky Taranis and the motor is a Turnigy D2822/14 1450kV fitted with an 7x4.5 x 3 blade prop.
I fitted a 30 Amp MultiStar Simon K ESC with extra heatsink.
Holding in my hand it hovers between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle.

Doug
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:45 AM
  #53  
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Some Photos on the other Website

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...560006&page=51

Cheers
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:59 AM
  #54  
solentlife
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Hi P ... why did you use solid rod on the Pull Pull Rudder instead of Fishing trace wire ?

Just FYI ... a lot of people stiffen up the Rudder and Elevator on the Hummer ... I did on my first. But it made no difference. On my second I just left as per kit. It actually flies better so the mods were as suspected unnecessary.

Cheers
Nigel
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Old 10-20-2015, 11:38 AM
  #55  
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I wanted to use those pushrod adjusters and it just worked out easier. It is no heavier than trace wire and fittings.

The elevator stiffener was used because some said that it tended to roll out in a hard loop due to the elevator being soft in the center.
Cheers P
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:53 AM
  #56  
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Just a little update. I see so many on here and then you never hear anything again....

The Reaktor has lived up to my expectations. I find it a real fun aircraft. It is much more capable than I am so I have toned it down to be an exciting sport model.
After the first couple of flights on full throws I had the shakes real bad. LOL
I find it brilliant for keeping up my flying skills which have been slipping due to flying gliders and wings and indoor fliers and quads. I really needed something like the Reaktor and I am really pleased I bought it.
It is really nice to land as it slows down so much and you can land it at your feet.
10 out of 10 so far.
Oh, I changed the Elevator to a single pushrod to the top horn. Reason/ I changed out the 3D long servo arms to normal servo arms so it just fitted my mods to change it at the same time. I easily get 10 minutes flight time and squeezed it to 12 the last time.
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Old 11-17-2015, 01:59 AM
  #57  
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I'm not ready for 3D, but this plane (from Value Hobby) is so cheap and apparently wind-capable that I've ordered one for an expendable windy day sport flyer. I've got a 2830/1000, 30A esc and a bunch of 9g plastic servos available. Also a couple of HobbyKing APC-copy 11x5.5's

Since I don't care about doing 3D, should I be thinking of any modifications? For example perhaps trimming away some of the excess fuselage area which I think is just there for 3D. And I'll bet I don't need all those huge control surfaces either. Since it's for wind, a little weight is probably a good thing so I was thinking of generous extreme tape for crashproofing and maybe some extra carbon to stiffen up the "rubber" plane. Whaddya think?

If I ever decide to get into 3D, I'll just build another one. $34 won't break the bank.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:24 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by WAMBO View Post
I'm not ready for 3D, but this plane (from Value Hobby) is so cheap and apparently wind-capable that I've ordered one for an expendable windy day sport flyer. I've got a 2830/1000, 30A esc and a bunch of 9g plastic servos available. Also a couple of HobbyKing APC-copy 11x5.5's

Since I don't care about doing 3D, should I be thinking of any modifications? For example perhaps trimming away some of the excess fuselage area which I think is just there for 3D. And I'll bet I don't need all those huge control surfaces either. Since it's for wind, a little weight is probably a good thing so I was thinking of generous extreme tape for crashproofing and maybe some extra carbon to stiffen up the "rubber" plane. Whaddya think?

If I ever decide to get into 3D, I'll just build another one. $34 won't break the bank.
Honest answer ? Don't do it ... the stock machine can be dialled down to a nice machine for general flying ....

Just get CoG nicely set at ~30% ... surface movements cut back a lot ... decent amount of expo and go enjoy.
This way - you can if later wanted up her to 3D just by dialling in the required surface movements ...

Nigel
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:29 AM
  #59  
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Yeah, I can do that. I was just thinking that that generous and unneeded surface area was just going to react with wind gusts etc.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:40 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by WAMBO View Post
Yeah, I can do that. I was just thinking that that generous and unneeded surface area was just going to react with wind gusts etc.
I fly my Hummer as a sunday sport machine AND as a 3D .... just means flicking the Dual Rate switches.

Its a successful design for whatever you want to do with it.

I will be swapping the useless cosmetic wheels (basically the legs and wheels are there to save the prop strikes on landing I reckon... take-offs are from hand)..... for snow skis soon ...

Nigel
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:31 PM
  #61  
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How short a throw can I put on the elev & aile for the maiden? Like in inches at the control surfaces. I just want to get it up and down safely for starters.

Might also put functional landing gear on it. I have DIY struts that bend easily, but straighten easily.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:45 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by WAMBO View Post
How short a throw can I put on the elev & aile for the maiden? Like in inches at the control surfaces. I just want to get it up and down safely for starters.

Might also put functional landing gear on it. I have DIY struts that bend easily, but straighten easily.
Later I will measure my low rate movements and post up. In fact I will post both full and low movements.

Nigel
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Old 11-18-2015, 01:31 PM
  #63  
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OK ... my movements are :

Rudder FULL = 100mm each way (I had to cut away foam on the elevator joiner to allow such amount) LOW RATE = 50mm each way.

Elevator FULL = 50mm each way LOW RATE = 20mm each way

Ailerons FULL = 50mm each way LOW RATE = 20mm each way

All measured at maximum point of surface. and inner fuselage end for Elev / Ail's

Low rate still gives me plenty of authority to drag her round in near 3D ... so I'm sure reducing to ~ Rudder 25mm each way, Elevator / Ailerons to 15mm each way would still give a good sport amount. But I would still have a full rate of similar to my low rates above to give that extra bit when needed.

Hope it helps.
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:45 PM
  #64  
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I have been following this thread and the one on RCGroups for a long time. Question for Solentlife----Are you now settled on the 2836 1000Kv as your recommended motor? Thanks for all the info, particularly this last one on control throws. Gary
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:58 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by garyp1029 View Post
I have been following this thread and the one on RCGroups for a long time. Question for Solentlife----Are you now settled on the 2836 1000Kv as your recommended motor? Thanks for all the info, particularly this last one on control throws. Gary
Yes and I apologise to many as I forgot I upgraded for the banner towing ...

The 2830 is a good motor with this model and as long as weight is kept down and you fly in zero to moderate breeze ..

Up the anti by towing streamers and still want to cavort ... to fly in not only light but also strong winds ... the 2836 gives that extra punch.

Yes I am now settled to the 2836 motor.

I am dead against Slow Fly props on here ... my prop of choice after trying so many is the 11 x 5.5E APC jobbie ...

Nigel
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Old 11-18-2015, 04:02 PM
  #66  
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Landing gear ? Personally ... it's just there to reduce prop breakages.... keeping nose up on the ground !

For use as Take-off / Landing rolling gear ? TBH ... I have only ever done that once ... it worked but was unnecessary. I now just pick it up ... gun the throttle ... push it forward and it flies out of hand. Landing ... I slow her down and feed in UP ... guide her in with rudder and level with careful use of ailerons ... do a literally vertical nose up plop on the ground in front of me.

Surely - that's what most people are doing isn't it ?

Nigel
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:13 PM
  #67  
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It's a 3D plane and I'm sure that is what most people do. But I'm strictly interested in sport flying it for now, and take offs, touch and go's and landings are part of the game, at least for me. This plane will be totally trashed before I'm personally ready to take on 3D. In fact, I have a Giles-202 32" profile which is already glued and taped back to life, and I'm only now just getting to the point of totally controlled flight. The Hummer is intended to replace it with something a little bigger with better wind capability.

I'm trying to work up my skills on these cheapies so when I start spending more serious money on planes, I can keep them pretty.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:21 PM
  #68  
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Sorry if I sound out of line ... but if you are learning to fly ... then these profile jobs in my opinion are not the models to use ...

You need a high wing stable trainer that will fly and auto-right itself ...

Models like these tend to stay heading where the nose last pointed at ... so no wonder you have glued / taped up the other model.

The Hummer would make a good intermediate trainer dialled back ... but only after getting general flight skills in place first.

Nigel
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:59 PM
  #69  
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No, I've already done the Champ and e-glider thing. Also multiple flying wings. The 202 took a beating because I set it up straight to the instructions and it was way too sensitive and reactive. Took lotsa broken props and torn nose foam before I finally got it sufficiently tamed and trimmed to just fly it around sans panic. I won't make that same mistake with the Hummer. That's why I asked your opinion of MINIMUM settings to start it off.

I still have work to do on the 202 first. All the servos have arm extenders on them I never should have installed. They make for tiny servo rotations when I turn down the throws so much. I plan to put stock length arms back on, but the servos are kind of buried, so I haven't gotten to it. And then I'll use that plane to learn-up on the Guardian so I'll be up to speed on some future use of it. Like on those expensive planes I mentioned.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:25 PM
  #70  
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OK ... sorry ... honest.

One point to remember when using extenders. In fact it applies to all servo arms.

When you dial back a servos movement - you actually reduce resolution. It is far better to move control arm connection inwards so a shorter arm is used and still full servo arc. Then you get full resolution movement.

Nigel
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:33 PM
  #71  
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Minimum control throw to fly is essentially nothing... once the plane is trimmed. "Free Flight" models do fine with ZERO control available. Trimmed for a relatively tight spiral up and a lazy circle coming down.

Once trimmed.. you can fly a plane around safely with VERY little control throw... if there's no source of turbulence to cause problems for you. 2 or 3 deg each way of aileron and elevator is enough to do a figure-8 lap around the field in calm air.

Most people want to do more than just lazy laps around the field... and the wind is rarely that cooperative.

How much total throw you need depends on wind conditions and minimum performance you will accept.

Generally trainers get a minimum of 20 deg deflection available each way on any surface. Usually rudder will have more throw than the other surfaces. Moderate throw available and modest size control surfaces leaves these models with restricted maneuverability.

To get similar response with much larger control surfaces needs less control throw. A "3D" capable plane where the control surfaces might be 20% of the wing area and 80% of the horizontal stab you could do nice round loops on less than 7 deg elevator deflection.

Deflections greater than 30 deg each way (40 each way for rudder) you are into throws that are only practical for the 3D maneuvers done below "stall speed"
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:46 PM
  #72  
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Yeah, I have a tactic I'm now using on the 202. I put triple rates onto a 3 pos switch. P1 is 15%, pretty tame. P2 is 30%, more responsive. P3 is a hybrid of tame surfaces except 50% up elevator for plop landings. An arbitrary 50% expo throughout.

Once I'm totally comfortable with P2, I'll redefine all the values upwards. Another couple days should do it.
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Old 11-21-2015, 07:36 PM
  #73  
solentlife
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I smacked my Hummer into the ground today on launch ... she just pitched up ... flicked to right ..... dove nose first into the ground ...

Broke out motor mount.

All fixed now ready for tomorrow !

Nigel
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:26 PM
  #74  
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Did the same thing here today, doing what I shouldn't have been
Just cracked the firewall plies. Hot glued it back together but not as tight as before, giving it more right thrust than normal. Screwed up the hovering trying to turn right. Took out the washers I had for right thrust. Now it flies like a charm again.
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Old 11-21-2015, 11:47 PM
  #75  
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At least someone knows how thrust works

I was just reading another forum where a guy said that every time he open his throttle wide his plane would climb.
He reckoned it was because he put a slightly heavier battery in it. I didn't bother mentioning downthrust to him.
Waste of time with most fliers as they haven't a clue.
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