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Old 11-28-2017, 09:15 PM   #51
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Default Covering

Still waiting for my motor mount screws (they have shipped.) I determined that I can cover the model, then mount the motor, ESC, arm plug, and double check the cowling before I mount it.

Meanwhile, I can check the servo directions, throws, etc.

My wife is a USAF veteran, and I'm having small decals made up for under the cockpit with her name and "call sign". Bright orange trim, and contrasting under wing colors, should make orientation in the air easier.


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File Type: jpg DSC_2903 left rear view.jpg (720.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2904 armament.jpg (810.6 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2905 lower wing covering scheme.jpg (715.5 KB, 66 views)

What goes up, must come down. The trick is to keep it in one piece.
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:59 AM   #52
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Very Very Nice Build Dont forget that I get to Do The MAIDEN FLIGHT on this Plane LOL


I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 11-29-2017, 01:58 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Very Very Nice Build Dont forget that I get to Do The MAIDEN FLIGHT on this Plane LOL
Thank you, Chellie!

I really do enjoy the building aspect of the hobby, probably more than the flying itself. Fortunately (?) with my flying skills, it gives me plenty of reason to build something new!

What goes up, must come down. The trick is to keep it in one piece.
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Old 11-29-2017, 05:11 PM   #54
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Default Motor and cowl mounting

Mount the cowling by using a Dubro E/Z Mount Cowl System (#998) for .20-.90 sized aircraft. I used four of the six mounting points, one on each outer corner of the cowl.

Positioning the mounts to locate the holes in the cowl proved problematic at first. Trying to keep the mount tabs from moving, while setting the cowling in place was next to impossible on the fuselage. So, I went back to my CAD drawings and printed the cowl mounting, and rear template for the cowl plug over each other on a sheet of paper. I laid the paper on my workbench and set the four mounting tabs roughly into position, then put the cowling over the paper and mounts. Using a small screwdriver, I finalized the position of the mounting tabs so they could be screwed into the cowl mount, and not interfere with installing the motor. The inner ends of the mounts had to be trimmed off.

A Sharpie pen was used to carefully mark where the holes in the cowling needed to be to line up with the mounts. Rather than using a drill bit (as the instructions call for) I used an X-Acto hole punch of the proper diameter to make clean holes, after reinforcing the inside of the plastic cowling with reinforced packing tape a trick I learned when racing RC cars. The mounting tabs were secured to the cowling, and then the assembly was placed onto the nose of the fuselage, and the mounting holes in the cowling mount marked with a sharp pencil. Rather than using the included Phillips head screws (which would be difficult to install given the angle of the screwdriver required through the cowl opening) I used four of the servo mount cap screws and installed them with a ball end Allen wrench.

The outside of the cowling was lightly sanded with fine grit sandpaper, and painted gloss black with Krylon plastic paint in a rattle can.

The motor, a Power Up 46 Sport from Heads Up RC (K-505) is bolted in place using 10-32 X 1 socket head cap screws through the modified spacers. Wires are fed through the opening opposite the steering linkage. The cowl is then installed and secured with the included screws and washers. A Tru-Turn 2 TurboCool E-Spinner (TTE-2502-B-T) is fitted with a Tru-Turn 6mmX5/16 E-Collet Adapter. NOTE: the backing plate for the spinner must be reamed out to fit the adapter. Tru-Turn will do this (for a fee), or you may be fortunate enough to have a close friend who just happens to own a machine shop. 😊 A XOAR 10X7 electric prop (PJN 10X7) will be used, but connect your motor and ESC and check the direction of rotation without the prop or spinner installed first.


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File Type: jpg DSC_2907 Cowl Mounts.jpg (903.4 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2908 Cowl.jpg (478.2 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2909 motor spacers.jpg (492.6 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2910 motor installed.jpg (451.7 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2912 cowl with prop and spinner.jpg (922.2 KB, 59 views)

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Old 11-29-2017, 05:53 PM   #55
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There are still a few small details to be taken care of, but it's pretty standard (and boring) stuff. Trim the screws on the control horns, trim the excess off the nose gear, connect up the arming plug to the ESC, and a few more very minor things.

But, I just couldn't resist!

Finishing off the power will be a Sky Power 80 amp ESC with switchmode BEC from Heads Up RC (H-115), two Admiral 3S 3700 40C lipos from Motion RC (EPR37003) connected in series through a MAXX Products 2S Battery Module (#7952). A Schumacher Products Armsafe Arming Kit (SUD0304) will be used to arm the ESC, and is installed into the front side of the fuselage.

I hope you enjoyed following my journey on this build. Hopefully, I can post a link to the maiden flight video soon!


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Old 11-30-2017, 02:32 AM   #56
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Paul great build log and that plane looks great! Looking forward to a video of the maiden just remember to keep the fingers away from the lens. By the way nice way to honor your wife, and her service to this country.

President RHFC
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Old 11-30-2017, 04:04 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by gramps2361 View Post
Paul great build log and that plane looks great! Looking forward to a video of the maiden just remember to keep the fingers away from the lens. By the way nice way to honor your wife, and her service to this country.
HA! You must have seen the Tigercub maiden flight video, where she kept putting her finger over the lens and wondering aloud if the camera was on!

I recently found out that although Flying Models magazine is no longer around, the plans service has been resurrected. I'm already looking at the "Duster", which is a larger version of the "Demi Duster" (you may be familiar with that!)
I think I just happen to have a motor and ESC that would work very well in something that size. Hmmmmmm.

What goes up, must come down. The trick is to keep it in one piece.
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Old 11-30-2017, 01:41 PM   #58
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Default CAD Cut Files

CAD files will be available after the re-design of the plane. (See next post.)

Servos are going to be relocated further back in the fuselage, behind the battery pack, bringing the center of the pack directly under the CoG point of the plane, with a little wiggle room fore and aft for fine-tuning the balance. The motor is also going to be extended forward 3/4" by using longer spacers (1" vs 1/4") and a longer, sleeker cowl plug and cowling are going to be produced.

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Old 11-30-2017, 06:18 PM   #59
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Default And, now a BIG issue!

Final details being done, one of which is to check and adjust the CG.

Here's the issue with converting a glow design to electric - glow designs aren't necessarily meant to carry the large lipo batteries needed to power them. Although I tried to position the pack as close to the CoG as I could, the plane has come out tail heavy - VERY tail heavy. As in, I'd have to mount a brick to get it to balance. (Okay, a bit of an exaggeration there, but.....)

So, it's back to the drawing board. You know that "extra" kit I was tracking down? Well, I have it now. I'll be able to use most of the formers, so all I'll have to have recut are the fuselage sides and doublers. Oh, and the cowl mount.

The maiden flight is slightly delayed. Maybe I'll remove the USAF decals, and put on American Airlines. :-)


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Old 12-04-2017, 08:07 PM   #60
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New fuselage sides, fuselage doublers, and cowl mount are being laser cut. I made a new, sleeker plug for the cowling that is needed with the extended motor mount spacers out of a 2 liter Pepsi bottle. This cowl actually came out better than the first. I added 1mm to all sides in the rear, so it fits over the fuselage tightly vs. butting up against it, and did a much better job trimming the plastic before removing it from the plug. The horizontal and vertical stabs are done (not hinged yet) and I'm going to be making a slight change in the build process. A small piece of 1/8" X 1/4" balsa, cut to the width of the inside of the fuselage at F5, will be glued into place just ahead of where F5 mounts. F6 will be glued in, and the horizontal stab assembly epoxied into place over the plans in the inverted position (the top of the stab is even with the top of the fuselage sides.) After the stab is set, the fuselage can be flipped over for installation of F5 and F3A, and the vertical stab can be fixed in place. Improvements are still in the works. F5 will now become F5 and F5A, and F4 will become F4 and F4A to facilitate building the fuselage upside down.

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Old Yesterday, 03:32 AM   #61
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Default Avenger electric version II

The new parts arrived. I have 90% of the fuselage assembly together in two days. New servo position, new battery position. I just did a preliminary check of the balance and it's just about perfect! I may have to add 1/2 oz to the nose, but that's nothing.

For some reason, this one came out even better than the first build. Whoever builds the next one (if someone actually does - I certainly hope so) will benefit from my mistakes, and the improvements to the design.

We actually got about 2" of snow on the ground so I doubt the maiden flight will be anytime soon.

Updated CAD files are available now. Still working on updated plans, but I won't bother posting them here. Instead, I'll send them along in an email if anyone requests the files to build their own. All corrections and improvements have been made. I'm working on updates to the build, which are very minor. I tried a new method (well, new to me anyway) of attaching the horizontal stab to the fuselage, prior to attaching the vertical stab, which assures perfect alignment and a square fit to the fuselage. It was super easy and worked out very well. I also found a way to simplify creating the block pieces at the end of the rear turtle deck, around the vertical stabilizer (it involves a table saw, so not everyone may be able to use it, but careful work with a regular fine saw would work. I'm just not that accurate with a hand saw.)

New version picture attached.


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