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Soldering wires together

Old 10-13-2010, 04:17 PM
  #26  
FlyWheel
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Yep, due to the new "No Lead" standards in electronics, lead solder is becoming a thing of the past. You don't have to twist or migrate the wires into each other. Just tin both wires, make a lap joint, hold them still while soldering and join them together. Just remember to put your heat shrink over the wire before you solder them together. That's how I got good at soldering...having to unsolder add heat shrink and re solder.
Just as if I was joining a solid wire to a junction, right? Perhaps that will work better, I know I can do that. Any tips for holding the ends together or do they only need to be in contact?

Putting the shrink wrap on first has not been a problem (yet, I don't want to jinx myself)

Does RS still sell silver solder? I've heard that is the best, and since I can now afford it, maybe I should go that route?

Finally, for this post anyway, what flux do y'all recommend?

Originally Posted by Jez View Post
I believe lead solder is the way to go if electronic circuits are involved,all electronic medical equipment is required to use lead solder for its reliability , consistency for obvious reasons as is the case in military and aviation use,so I have read.

Am I in the correct place to ask, If you look at a Deans connector in the "T" configuration which terminal is the positive ? Thanks Jez
Medical equipment? For obvious reasons I can't help but find that funny! Oh! before i forget, the polarity of Deans is as follows:
Positive [ l - ] Negative

Thanks a lot for all the help guys, I really appreciate it. I never have been good with wire to wire soldering! I wouldn't have even bothered if the wires off the cell pack weren't so short! I would have just soldered a Deans to the end of the pack wires.
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:28 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
Just as if I was joining a solid wire to a junction, right? Perhaps that will work better, I know I can do that. Any tips for holding the ends together or do they only need to be in contact?


Putting the shrink wrap on first has not been a problem (yet, I don't want to jinx myself)

Does RS still sell silver solder? I've heard that is the best, and since I can now afford it, maybe I should go that route?

Finally, for this post anyway, what flux do y'all recommend?


Medical equipment? For obvious reasons I can't help but find that funny! Oh! before i forget, the polarity of Deans is as follows:
Positive [ l - ] Negative

Thanks a lot for all the help guys, I really appreciate it. I never have been good with wire to wire soldering! I wouldn't have even bothered if the wires off the cell pack weren't so short! I would have just soldered a Deans to the end of the pack wires.

Don't put the ends together. Overlap them by about 3/16" to 1/4" and have them up against each other. Make sure they stay in place and don't move until the solder solidifies. It should be a nice shiney finish.


You don't need silver solder but it works fine too.


I actually just came from RS and picked up some flux for work. It's in a round white tub and is called Rosin Soldering Flux - no spill paste. It's part number is 64-022 and it was $7.54. It's enough to last about 20 years.
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:38 PM
  #28  
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ok you all are right, flux, I use silver solder, and I ruff up /sand anything before I solder my granpa showed me that
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:46 PM
  #29  
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60/40 solder is widely available and is much easier to work with. Lead free solders melt at higher temperatures and just do not flow as easily as 60/40.

Copper oxidizes very quickly so a good flux is really helpful. I really like the fluxes in the link below. I use the liquid for dipping wire ends into and the past for applying to terminals, connectors, etc. The paste would probably work just as well on the wire. They have 60/40 as well

Your iron is probably the main problem though. I use an 80w Weller iron for must of my wiring projects. Some say it is too big but the mass of the tip is the important thing. The tip of an 80w iron has enough mass to quickly heat larger copper wires to make quick work of soldering connectors without melting the plastic. The soldering guns have plenty of power to do just about anything but they are heavy and more awkward to use then a pencil type iron.

Supersafe® Soldering Flux
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:27 AM
  #30  
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"Rosin soldering flux - no spill paste" Thanks Tom, I'll add that to my shopping list which also includes a better iron; the one I have has a pencil like tip, which I found out is great for circuit boards but not much else. so I'm going to make sure the newer more powerfull one has a big enough tip so all the heat isn't drawn off before it can heat up the wire enough to melt the solder.

I'll also look for some low melt 67-33 (Or is it 63-37? One of those.) solder.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:37 AM
  #31  
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If you still have problem's with your solder not stick check the wire.
Some wire has a coating on it and will need to be scrapped off with a hobby knife.
One way to tell is to try too tin the end of the wire.
If you get a nice amount on it, put it on your connection and heat it up until the solder melts again but you've got to make sure the wire doesn't move after you remove the soldering iron.
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:51 PM
  #32  
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Talking "...Spared No Expense..."

Ok, here's what I got at "The Shack". ->Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN09500001.JPG
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  • Selectable Wattage Soldering iron. ->Click image for larger version

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  • Gauged Wire Stripper/Cutter.
  • Rosin Soldering Flux (Non-Spill Paste).
  • 63/37 Rosin Core Solder (.050 Dia.).
  • 12-Gauge Stranded Hook-up wire (for practice).
---------------------------------------------------
Total ~$40

The removable tip of the iron is .233" dia x 3.100" long, a (I hope) hefty enough piece of metal to provide sufficient heating. I wasn't able to find a chisel tip. Unfortunately the dial is incrimented in watts, not degrees, so I guess I'll have to play with it a bit to find the best setting, unless someone here knows this beast and can tip me off? Will these do?

I also picked up another NiMH pack at the Hobby Stop and some more shrink tubing. Naturally this time I'm going to practice a bit with the roll of wire until I can get it right before I try again.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:42 AM
  #33  
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I always use a OVERPOWERED IRON. Reason. You can Heat in 1 second, touch the solder & poof it is perfect with no heat going up the wire or melting a plastic socket.
My 45 year old dual range Weller is only working on high. Perfect for PC boards. 1/4 of a second & done. No lifted PC tracks or pad eyes.
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:43 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
Ok, here's what I got at "The Shack". ->Attachment 137234
  • Selectable Wattage Soldering iron. ->Attachment 137235
  • Gauged Wire Stripper/Cutter.
  • Rosin Soldering Flux (Non-Spill Paste).
  • 63/37 Rosin Core Solder (.050 Dia.).
  • 12-Gauge Stranded Hook-up wire (for practice).
---------------------------------------------------
Total ~$40

The removable tip of the iron is .233" dia x 3.100" long, a (I hope) hefty enough piece of metal to provide sufficient heating. I wasn't able to find a chisel tip. Unfortunately the dial is incrimented in watts, not degrees, so I guess I'll have to play with it a bit to find the best setting, unless someone here knows this beast and can tip me off? Will these do?

I also picked up another NiMH pack at the Hobby Stop and some more shrink tubing. Naturally this time I'm going to practice a bit with the roll of wire until I can get it right before I try again.
Looks like you're all set.Try the iron at 30 watts and see how it does for you. I agree that hotter is better so you spend less time heating it up. It should only take a couple of seconds to get it soldered. Good luck.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:51 PM
  #35  
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Thumbs up By George, I think I got it!

And on the first attempt! It took only a second or two, just like you said guys! Here are the two pieces of 12 ga. I used for my practice piece:
Click image for larger version

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The crimps in the insulation are from the alligator clips used to hold the ends together. After the solder had dried I tried pulling them apart and I couldn't, not even with each end held with pliers! Thanks for all your tips guys, I finally got the Deans on my new battery pack.

P.S. And yes, I did remember to put the shrink tubing on first! BTW, is there a size of shrink tubing between the red and the white? One is a bit too tight and the other barely shrinks small enough (that's on the 14 ga. wires used on the pack, not the practice wire. I didn't waste any there).
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Old 10-15-2010, 10:12 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
And on the first attempt! It took only a second or two, just like you said guys! Here are the two pieces of 12 ga. I used for my practice piece:
The crimps in the insulation are from the alligator clips used to hold the ends together. After the solder had dried I tried pulling them apart and I couldn't, not even with each end held with pliers! Thanks for all your tips guys, I finally got the Deans on my new battery pack.

P.S. And yes, I did remember to put the shrink tubing on first! BTW, is there a size of shrink tubing between the red and the white? One is a bit too tight and the other barely shrinks small enough (that's on the 14 ga. wires used on the pack, not the practice wire. I didn't waste any there).
Looks good. I think I'd add a little more solder so it's a nice smooth joint. I try to make mine so the wire strands don't show and it's just a smooth surface.

As for heat shrink, It comes in all different sizes. Lowes carries some packs that have various sizes in them and Harbor Freight carries it in different size rolls for just a few bucks each. 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" will cover most everything we do.
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Old 10-15-2010, 11:17 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Looks good. I think I'd add a little more solder so it's a nice smooth joint. I try to make mine so the wire strands don't show and it's just a smooth surface.

As for heat shrink, It comes in all different sizes. Lowes carries some packs that have various sizes in them and Harbor Freight carries it in different size rolls for just a few bucks each. 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" will cover most everything we do.
This was done by easing the ends together until the strands interwove. What the picture doesn't show is that the wire is stiff for about a half inch beyond either end of the insulation, so I'm thinking there is more solder, but it was wicked inside!

We don't have a Harbor freight, but we do have Lowes, and it will probably be cheaper there than at either the HS or Radio Shack.
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Old 10-16-2010, 01:30 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
I have just ruined a brand new NiMH pack trying to solder the wires of a pre-wired Deans' connector to the wires off the pack. The solder will not to melt into the wire (it melts fine when in contact with the iron).
Put me down for another person recommending the Weller 80 watt soldering iron. The markings on this iron indicates part number SPG 80L. Found mine at the local hardware store for something like $30.00. This iron comes with two tips, one for soldering copper, apparently the other is for doing glass artwork. The second tip absolutely refuses to "tin" with solder. Fixed that by filing off the black coating on the tip. Under that black coating is pure copper.

Note this is a soldering iron, NOT a soldering gun. Soldering guns may have 100 watts or more (I've got a 350 watt soldering gun), but those guns have virtually zero tip mass, and trying to solder heavy copper wires with a soldering gun is a lesson in futility.

I've got a whole collection of soldering irons, ranging from a little 15 watt iron, to a temperature controlled Weller 40 watt iron and the 80 watt standard soldering iron. Also included are several Butane powered soldering irons that are equivalent to about a 40 watt electric iron. You can get those butane irons with ratings equal to about 150 watt soldering irons, but they are several hundred dollars.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:26 PM
  #39  
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Here is some of the stuff i use to solder with , kester solder 60/40 bought at a local electronics store (Marvac) 40 watt iron 15.00 at home depot , solder sponge , to keep iron tip clean , clothspins jig to hold deans when soldering , hammer type soldering tip , to solder 2 battries together end to end with no wire , to solder end to end , clean end of batts with wornout dremmal drum sander , get hammer type tip , take piece of wood ,glue 2 dowells to it with spacing to hold batt even end to end , clean batts with drum sander , tin each end of battery (hold tip to batt end and add solder , should take 2 seconds) put 2 batts on dowell jig + to - , put hammer tip in soldering iron , hold hammer tip between 2 tinned batts , when solder melts (again 2 seconds) remove hammer tip , slide batts togther , let cool , batts now joined , key to soldering is to keep everyhing clean ! and use enough heat ! also i never use additional flux , except for silver soldering structual stuff , pushrod ends , landing gear ect ...
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:34 PM
  #40  
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Default bad at soldering

I am the worst at doing this but i will be wirering four motors soon and i have bought new solder ,and a new weller iron so i hope to get through this . I am also running brushed motors so i will also put scott key diodes on the motors. lol Even more stuff to get in my way trying to solder them up. The only good news is i only have to use 1 esc and no bec. lol wish me luck guys .
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:58 PM
  #41  
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soldering: tricks for easy connections that are fast and clean....

tip is cleaned AND TINNED.. if its black it cant transfer heat through carbon.(ps check to make sue the tip is tight it will loosen and not heat up, first time and every know and then.)

prime each side... i heat the wire and let it get enough solder by it self. , the but some on the connector.
now all you have to do is hold the wire next to the connector and re apply heat. the solder will liqiufy on both and the remove heat till cool.

this way you aren't a 3-4 four handed trying to add solde while holding the parts all in place/
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:10 PM
  #42  
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Thanks for the tips ,I will give it a try and i am not affraid. lol Update i have got wires that realy look good for me soldering them together.lol I will be working to atatch the motors next . joe

Last edited by road king 97; 12-02-2010 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 03:27 AM
  #43  
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Thanks again for the lessions y'all gracefully posted here. I just finished soldering all the required plugs and wires for my new model. And I did it all by my lonesome!

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Old 04-02-2011, 10:55 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
Thanks again for the lessions y'all gracefully posted here. I just finished soldering all the required plugs and wires for my new model. And I did it all by my lonesome!

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Hi Andrew Glad everyone was able to help you to become a Expert Solder Now Its great to see people learning new things and learning what works and what does not work Yea that lead free solder is junk, and you need lots of heat sometimes, your solder job came out great, I use a 100Watt soldering gun, silver bearing solder from Radio shack, and rosin flux, the extra heat is needed for dean plugs, a lot of times if you tint the wires with solder for the connector plugs and deans, it wont require a lot of heat, keep up the great work, Chellie
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Old 04-17-2011, 04:25 PM
  #45  
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Wink Soldering

A large enough iron, flux, and a good soldering jig will make the job much easier. Just remember to slip the shrink tube you are going to use to cover the joint on before you solder the joint, and keep it far enough away so that you don't shrink it with the heat of the soldering job! (Ask me how I know THAT )
Jim
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:21 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by toolmanjh View Post
A large enough iron, flux, and a good soldering jig will make the job much easier. Just remember to slip the shrink tube you are going to use to cover the joint on before you solder the joint, and keep it far enough away so that you don't shrink it with the heat of the soldering job! (Ask me how I know THAT )
Jim
What works well, is wrap that piece of shrink tubing with a piece of wet paper towel before soldering. If the water in the paper towel starts boiling, add more wet paper towel!
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:38 PM
  #47  
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If you have wire on both units why not just use butt joint crimp sleeves covered with some shrink tube?
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:47 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
If you have wire on both units why not just use butt joint crimp sleeves covered with some shrink tube?
These butt crimp sleeves work well, and the company I worked for used them by the thousands every week.

But, the proper crimping tool is required with them, those $3.99 crimpers found in the local stores just don't cut it. The crimpers we used at work were well North of $200 each.

Also don't know how they would work with some of the higher currents used on the larger kilowatt sized models and their #10 or #12 wire.
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:08 AM
  #49  
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I have one more question: Despite all my efforts the tip of my iron is getting black spots that will not tin. Is there a way to remove the black (I assume it's an oxide) without ruining the tip?

I've heard that abrasives are a no-no because they remove the chrome and render the tip useless.

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Old 04-18-2011, 12:37 AM
  #50  
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I take a rag and wet it down so it is damp evry so often I wipe the tip of the iron across it gets rid of the black and the shine is back. I get that a lot too black tip on the iron then it doesn't transfer the heat.
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