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Wilga 2000 Mods, Fix's, Vids & Stories

Old 07-29-2008, 08:03 PM
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KentuckyRanger
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Default Wilga 2000 Mods, Fix's, Vids & Stories

Welcome Wilga fanatics!

I started this Thread as a build log but since researching the Wilga's history I've found this Plane to be quite interesting.
Anyway, let's talk Wilga!
Try to keep it in the Foam category but if you have any Modding ideas please feel free to join in!

A very important site. Sapac replacement Parts:

http://shop.sapacamerica.com/


I've loved RC Planes since I was a Kid but never purchased one for myself because of the cost and aggravation at the thought of crashing a Plane after putting so many Hours into building it.

Now with the advent of electric Motors and Foam tech, RC Planes are very affordable and don't take much of anything to put together.
Also, if you crash it, you're not out all that Money and wasted build Time.

This is my first RC Plane so I wanted something inexpensive as well as easy to fix.

I didn't want to go down the same Road as all my Fiends and get the usual Piper Cub, Cessna, ect...

After researching available "Cheap" kits I came across Sapac's Wilga 2000.
The Sapac Wilga 2000 is what I'd call an intermediate trainer. If you don't have a good understanding of flight Physics and aren't already familiar with a basic understanding of flight controls then this Plane isn't for you.

If you're a beginner with little or no knowledge of aviation flight control or want something easier to learn right out of the Box then I would suggest a Slow Stick trainer like the Hobby Zone Firebird:
http://www.advantagehobby.com/produc...&cat=24&page=1
It's VERY easy to master and won't frustrate you to the point of giving up.

Here's why I feel this is the BEST Plane for a beginner:



History of the Wilga:

The Wilga line was named after the Wilga Bird.



Poland's Light Aircraft Science and Production Centre in Warsaw began development of the Wilga in the early 1960s as a replacement for the general purpose Czechoslovak L60 Brigadyr utility.



The prototype Wilga 1 was powered by a 135kW (180hp) Narkiewicz WN6B radial and flew for the first time on April 24 1962. A fairly extensive redesign of the basic aircraft followed, and a modified Wilga 2 with a new fuselage and tail and a 145kW (195hp) WN6RB engine flew in August 1963. That December the 170kW (225hp) Continental O470 powered Wilga C or (Wilga 32) flew and Lipnur Gelatnik later built 39 in Indonesia.



Poland's first production Wilgas were the 3A four seat utility and 3S ambulance which introduced the 195kW (260hp) Ivchenko designed AI14 radial. Soon after PZL reconfigured the Wilga's cabin and landing gear, resulting in the definitive production version, the Wilga 35. The prototype Wilga 35 first flew on July 28 1967.



The Wilga 35 remains in production essentially unchanged, and several variants have been offered, while the Wilga 80 is identical to the 35 other than its further rear positioned carburettor air intake. The Wilga 35A and 80A are designed for flying club operations and are fitted with a hook for glider towing, the 35H and 80H are float equipped, the 35P is usually fitted with four seats, the 35R and 80R are agricultural aircraft fitted with a 270kg (595lb) under fuselage chemical hopper and spray bars, and the 35P is an ambulance variant capable of carrying two stretchers.

TECHNICAL DATA:

Dimensions:

Span - 11,28 m / 37.0078 Ft
Length - 8,46 m / 27.7559 Ft
Wing area - 15,5 m2 / 50.8530 Ft²
Doors dimensions - 1,63 x 0,95 m / 5.34 X 3.11 Ft

Weights:

Take-off weight - 1300 kg / 2866.009 lbs
Empty weight - 1000 kg / 2204.662 lbs

Performance:

Stalling speed - 66 km/h / 41.01 mph
Rate of climb - 4,6 m/s / 15.0918 Ft/s
Max. range - 620 km / 2034 mi at cruise speed 142 km/h / 465.87 mph
Take-off / Landing run - 80/95 m / 262.5/311.7 Ft


Wilga 35P


Wilga 80H Float


Wilga 35A Tow



Wilga 80R Crop Duster

The PZL-104M Wilga 2000 is an improved development aimed at western customers. It is powered by a 225kW (300hp) Textron Lycoming Continental IO540 flat six in a reprofiled nose, and features AlliedSignal avionics and extra fuel. First flight was on August 21 1996, while FAA certification was awarded in 1997.



PZL-104M Wilga2000



PZL-104 Wilga2000 Float



Enough history, back to my story, LOL!


The Wilga 2000 is available from Sapac as well as Graupner. There are other manufacturers and if you Google Wilga 2000 you'll find just about everyone sells the Sapac version, even on eBay but these are the Two I came up with.

The Sapac is around $160.00 (RTF) and comes with everything you need to get flying. A few drawbacks to this Model are the cheap Li/Po charger and the sloppy Factory placement of the Stickers. The Radio is surprisingly nice for the price as well as the Motor and speed control.

The Graupner is a bit more expensive chiming in at $215 (ARF) & $339 (RTF) but has a much better Radio and includes a very nice balanced Li/Po charger, as well as a few other features that if I had seen the Graupner first, I would have purchased it instead, like the Stickers being on the Sheets, ready for you to apply properly...

I wasn't expecting much when I got the Plane in the mail and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of things like the Radio and micro servos.
The radio has some high end features like channel mixing etc.

The only thing I didn't like where the control surface Hinges but I was excited to get it together and try it out.
After putting it together I took it out and in 5 Minuets crashed it because of the sluggish, lacking control response. I also was made aware very quickly of just how fragile the Foam is.

Thank God it wasn't totaled so after getting it back Home I took a deep breath and decided to really concentrate on what this Plane needs in order to make it fly properly.

My first problem to solve was the lack of control.
Being a cheap Foam Plane I wasn't expecting allot but the design really limits how the control surfaces perform.
The Hinges are very restrictive except for the ailerons. The Tape method for the Ailerons is quite ingenious but the way they re-enforced them where the Rod connector attaches is a very weak point and allows too much give, resulting in poor performance.
It was an easy fix by taking the Tape off and replacing it with some high quality 3M Vinyl Tape as seen in the Pics, I also used packing Tape to cover the Wing to protect and increase its stiffness:




My next problem was more complex and needed allot more attention and thought.
The Rudder and Elevator on this Plane are a disaster in control, or lack thereof. Incorporating the Hinges into the molding of these control surfaces really limits and restricts movement and puts allot of strain on the servos.
After giving it allot of thought I purchased some small Brass Hinges and epoxied them into the control surfaces very carefully.
Now they move very freely and as you can see in the Pics not only do they move freely but have a much better range of movement.

After doing this mod I found much cheaper Hinges specifically made for RC Planes, instead of Stanley Brass Hinges.
I guess you live and learn...
Anyway, here's a link to where you can get them:
http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/ser...ResultCount=32







The next thing I did was to get the speed control out of the rubber Boot and put it somewhere it could stay cool.
Speed controls get very hot and it just looked like the way they had it in there was just asking for pre-mature thermal failure so I took care of that problem and also took care of the possibility of water damage if I ever use the Pontoons.
I used epoxy to secure it in place and then covered the entire Circuit in epoxy to keep vibration and Water damage out:




I used 1/8" Wood dowels glued with contact cement to the leading edge of the Wing to protect it from collisions and also used the Red Tape to mark under the Plane and on the leading edge of the Elevator to help orientate the Plane in flight. I also got rid of the Glass Tape and poorly placed Sticker on the Bottom surface and replaced it with the 3M Vinyl Tape for a cleaner look.:



With a few Hours of work and about $10.00 in parts I made this a real RC flyer capable of much smoother and accurate control.



Last edited by KentuckyRanger; 08-03-2008 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:04 PM
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Default Tail Wheel Mod

Well I said I was going to do it, and I did, LOL!
One thing that's been bugging me is the real lack of being able to steer while taxiing.
I couldn't sleep Tonight so I started rummaging around in the Garage looking through all my Junk Boxes for Parts to make the Tail Wheel steerable.

I'm a pack Rat, I keep everything left over from old projects and it's good that I do because I used some real old left over Parts from my RC Truck Days.
I still have my Losi Buggy that I turned into a Stadium Truck back in 1990, I need to get it out and tinker with it again but I digress...

Anyway, I had to get rid of the old Axle because it's just too thin and the Wheel just wobbles around on it.
I found some 1/8" Aluminum Rod and drilled the Center of the Hub out to accommodate the new Axle:



Then I scrounged up some Rubber thing from a past project, some old Washers and I cut a Switch Boot to use as a keep (Red thing) that worked perfectly for the Axle Bering assembly.
I used it because being Rubber it will have some give and act as a shock absorber:



Then I used an old Steering Ball Socket from saved Losi Parts, more 1/8" Aluminum Rod, Heat shrink Tubing, 3/8" Dowel to tie the Ball Tip Bolt and Axle together and Wire ties to bring it all together:



It's so late and there isn't much light for flying at 4:00am, LOL! So I just took it out to the Street and tried it out, WOW! I drove it around like a Car and had total control over where it went!
It worked out better than I ever imagined.
I can't wait to take it out and Taxi around and I really can't wait to see how it will affect landing, I know it'll be very cool!




Last edited by KentuckyRanger; 07-29-2008 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Title fix
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:08 PM
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Default Motor Mount Fix

Well I wanted to get some video of me Taxiing, flying and landing but the weather has been crap for the last few Days here.

Yesterday it was very nice out but the wind was so gusty it wasn't good for a Foam trainer like the Wilga 2000 so I opted to just video the Plane Taxiing.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hytvnv66O14[/media]
After the crash, I had to fix the Motor Mount as well as the Nose Cone.

The Motor Mount was easy, I just cut the broken Bracket off, cut a Piece of 1/8" Basswood, shaped it, cut out some Slots for the Brackets to fit into etc...



Everything went together very easily and now the Motor mount is allot more sturdy than before:







The Nose Cone fix was working great, I used some of my Wifes Polymer Clay that hardens to plastic when baked at 200f for 15min.
I knew to turn down the temp but I didn't turn it down enough and almost shrunk the Nose Cone to an un-usable shape, LOL!
I did manage to get the Clay to cure but I had to turn the Temp WAY down and bake it allot longer.

Anyway, I have looked EVERYWHERE for a replacement Cowl but haven't found them for sale anywhere but Countries other than the USA. I managed to save this one and when I find someone who does sell them or ship to the USA, I'll post it on here ASAP.
In the mean Time, if someone knows where to get them PLEASE let me know...

It looks like crap but gave me an idea for the new one. I molded it so the Air intake would help cool the Motor instead of just blow Air by it.
I'll let you know how it turns out...

You'd think Co's like Sapac and Graupner would make something like this a priority as to availability. I can replace all the Parts, except the one part that's usually the first to get destroyed in a crash, go figure...




Last edited by KentuckyRanger; 07-31-2008 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:12 PM
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I just had to post this Pic of a Wilga 2000 used by the Polish Border Patrol... All jokes aside, this is one tough Plane and really looks cool.

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Old 07-29-2008, 08:14 PM
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Default Pzl 104 Wilga

I ran across this Video and even though it's not a Foamie it's just so cool!
I can't wait to get the Kit or Plans for a future build. (Once I learn to fly...)

Here's where you can find the Kit for this awesome Plane:
PLZ 104 Wilga Kit


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRLr6Pj6Y2A&eurl=http://www.rcplaneworkshop.com/model-airplanes/rc-model-pzl-104-wilga-3580-23-testing-lights[/media]
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:15 PM
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Default Pzl 104 Wilga

An actual Wilga flight.
The Plane has lots of room despite what some say and the model (Wilga 2000) is very capable of the designation Tug.
What gets me is the unobstructed view out of this Plane, just awesome!

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApUuG1DxEig&feature=related[/media]
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Old 07-29-2008, 08:22 PM
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Default Installing new Waypoint Motor

I finally got the Motor Today.
It only took 4 Days from Japan, not bad at all.
The Motor is quite impressive and at $24.00 it's a great deal.
Thanks to Andrew McGregor for the Heads up on the Waypoint series of Brushless Outrunner Motors.

I've been educating myself all about Brushless Motors and I think I might have jumped the Gun on accusing Sepac of putting a cheap Motor in this Plane.


I think the big problem with the design is the lack of proper ventilation and the poorly (Cheap Plastic) designed Motor Mount that covers just about all the Vent Holes on the Motor.

After my Plane's Motor failed and I looked it over I noticed that it got so hot it almost melted the Motor mount and deformed it so bad I almost had to trash it and start from scratch, no wonder the Motor failed.

Anyway, I installed the new Motor and had to re-heat the Motor mount to get it lined back up as best I could. I also opened up the Plastic Mount to expose the Vents so Air could flow:



Then, in order to accommodate the large Vents to the Bottom of the mount so the Air from my new intake could be used to better cool the Motor I had to grind the Plastic more in order to allow space for the Wires. You can also see where I swapped out drive Shafts with the OEM Motor to accommodate the OEM Prop:



The Vents on the opposite end of the Motor are ingeniously machined to help draw Air through the Motor around the windings:



My Wife tolerates me, God love Her:



In order to reduce drag and get the Air where it needs to be I covered up the original Vent Holes which did nothing as far as cooling goes. The Intake I cut out really doesn't look all that bad and has made all the difference in the World as far as cooling the Motor.
I didn't get a Picture of it but I also had to add some weight to balance the Plane so I used some Led and made an Air Ramp just behind the intake to reduce drag and compress the Air up towards the Motor better:






I did a little flying Today but my Leg got to hurting too bad and it was so hot out it was miserable, since I injured my Back at work about 1.6 Years ago I can't stand very long anymore and it really sucks some Days.

Anyway, the new Waypoint really worked well. It's much more quiet than the OEM Motor and runs allot smother as well. It's the perfect replacement Motor and has just as much power as the OEM Motor and has much better/smoother Throttle control as well.
The short flight I took lasted about 8Min and I was anxious to see how hot the Motor was. To my delight it was only warm to the touch and it was very hot out Today so I'm very pleased with its performance.

Well, until next time here's to Flying!



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Old 07-29-2008, 08:27 PM
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Default Landing Gear Mod

While I was waiting on the new Motor I did a few more mods.
One thing I did was to make an intake to allow more Air to get directly to the Motor (too late for the OEM Motor). You can see on the Nose where I cut it out. It looks ugly but if it works then it's worth it:



I also took off those wobbly Wire landing gear and replaced them with something a little more substantial. I used some 1/8" Basswood to re-enforce the Fuselage.
It was only $20.00 in parts so I'm still not doing too bad and if this Plane is totaled I can still use them on another Plane in the future:




Last edited by KentuckyRanger; 07-31-2008 at 03:38 AM.
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Old 07-31-2008, 03:33 AM
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Default Wing re-enforcement

I went flying the other Day and after a post flight inspection noticed the Wing had some stress cracks on the Top, close to the Center.
Foam Wings are light, but not very sturdy and if you stress Foam it tends to crack very easy if flexed too far.
Foam does have allot of give to it which is good and bad.
In any Wing design (even real Planes) you want some give to it.
Too much and you lose the lifting ability, too little and it will crack.

My problem here was the Wing had too much give and the Foam cracked under the pressure of flexing too much.

The fix was easy with a 1/4" Strip of 1/8" Basswood 20" Long, glued into place by good quality Contact Cement, like Walthers Goo.
(be careful of Walthers Goo because it will tend to melt Foam a little. Test it out on your Foam before using. Once it completely dries "Over Night" the Foam will stiffen back up and make an excellent bond.)

Basswood is very rigid and has very little give to it. It will snap apart very easy along the Grain so keep that in Mind when using it in a project.
I also use it for making Motor mounts as well.
It's allot cheaper than Carbon Rods and I really want to keep this a cheap flyer.
The nice thing about Basswood is it's very easy to work with using an Exacto Knife and Moto Tool, it's very light and it glues into place allot better than Carbon because the Wood absorbs the Glue.

I placed the Strip along the thickest part of the Wing as well as right behind the locking Pins to give everything allot more support.
I also didn't want to run it all the way across the Wing because I want to keep the flex outside of the load bearing area to take advantage of the Foams give for structural integrity.
Like I said before, Wings MUST flex in order to stay together.

So far this Plane has been a trainer in every aspect, including design.

Here's some Pics of what I did:



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Old 08-02-2008, 06:55 AM
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I'm having a REALLY hard time finding a new Engine Cowling.

If you examine the Sapac you'll notice that the Fuselage's Nose doesn't narrow like the Wilga 2000, but more like the 35.
I'll bet anyone here a Happy Meal that the Mold for this is actually a wilga 35/80 and not a 2000 and they just molded the more modern looking Cowl to say it's a 2000.

Anyway, I'm ordering a few different Cowling's (Including some Radial Engine Cowls) To see what I can do as far a readily available Cowl you can get easily in the USA.

I think this Plane would look very classy as a Wilga 35/80.

If anyone has info or has done this already let us all in on the secret.

In the mean time I'll keep Y'all posted...
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Old 08-02-2008, 10:08 AM
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Excellent write up. I especially liked the history at the beginning. I didn't realize the Sapac (the one I was familiar with) was based on a full scale plane. Very impressive, I enjoyed this thoroughly.
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:01 PM
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Default Wing re-enforcement (Part-2)

First off thanks Monkey for your comment, I really appreciate it.
I'm just putting out the things I'm doing so others might get an idea of how to make this Plane stronger and maybe throw in some ideas of their own.

Anyway, the Wing on this thing, because of how the 2 halves are joined together just annoys me.
There's allot of good ideas in the design but Sapac really dropped the Ball on the design about the main joint.
Maybe they figured most People would take the Wing apart to transport the Plane or something, I don't know.
But what I do know is if you're going to fly this thing allot then you really need to re-enforce the Wing or it'll give you some major Migraines.

As you've already read I stiffened the Wing with packing tape and re-enforced it with a Basswood spar.
Now I'm going to tackle the rear of the Wing where it rests on the Fuselage and has allot of stress as to connecting it to the Fuselage, not to mention keeping the Wing from pulling apart.

All I did was hollow out the area behind the Servo back to the edge of the Wing to give it more rigidity and support by gluing a piece of Basswood into the hollow:





I also painted the Wood to match the Plane:



The key to bonding the Wood to the Foam is making sure the Walthers Goo dries thoroughly before joining the pieces together:



Once it's all together I used a piece of packing Tape to cover the Wood for added strength.
I would have used Vinyl Tape but I didn't want any give from the Tape to give the joint between the Wood and Foam extra strength.
I know it looks like crap here but it's all hidden inside the Fuselage once the Wing is attached to the Plane:




As you can see it really adds allot of strength right where the Wing needs it:

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Old 08-13-2008, 09:52 AM
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Default Fixed Cowling

After searching high and low for a replacement Cowl, trying other Cowls with no success and getting disgusted every time I'd look at the old Cowl I'd crashed then almost melted, I decided to try to fix it one more time.

As for using the Polymer Clay my Wife has, I've come to the conclusion it's only good for making stuff, not fixing cheap thin Plastic Cowls, LOL!
Here's what you're supposed to use Polymer Clay for, My Daughter made this for my Wife and I's Anniversary:




I went out and purchased some high quality Body filler and went to work re-shaping the messed up, warped, cracked, melted Cowling.
I figured I had nothing to lose.

After 4 Days of grinding, priming and sanding I got it done Today.
I decided to do the intake a little different and I think it worked out pretty good.
Before I go flying again I'm going to make a Plaster Mold so if I need one again I'll be able to make one out of Fiberglass.


Before:[/SIZE]



After:[/SIZE]





I figured the way I designed the Air Scoops it would channel Air directly in front of the Motor and really help cool things off:







Last edited by KentuckyRanger; 08-15-2008 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:28 AM
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I saw this today, I believe he said it was 13 pounds...

I missed out on getting video of it in flight, but he's a member of my club, I'll see if I can get it next time.

Last edited by FlyingMonkey; 02-12-2009 at 04:50 AM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:36 AM
  #15  
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Nice thread with lots of useful mods and tips.

how much weight have you added?


I've made a few mods of my own after going brushless. I've removed the spinner and replaced it with a much smaller M3 spinner that just covers the face of the prop. It also serves to replace the crappy plastic plug that is allegedly the prop fastener.


Cowls are now available from SAPAC USA

I like the wing ailerons mods and agree, this is an area that is very poorly made but I have decided to fit proper plastic hinges in this area since I've trashed the plane twice due to the ailerons not responding, especially on windy days.
I'll try out your rudder and elevator mods too. I've made a different mod to the control rods for these surfaces by running them inside a smaller diameter aluminium tube glued inserted into the airframe. The rods have nowhere to flex now so they work the rudder and elevator more effectively but I think proper hinges will sort it all out once and for all.

I'm really wanting to design a better engine mount, I have the SAPAC Black Tornado 1100Kv 2830 Brushless motor and it does get very hot, to the point of deforming the [insert expletive] cheap motor mount.

In a way i'm quite disappointed with some of the short cuts on this model. Some of the basics are just poorly executed it is a cheap trainer so the up side is that it teaches you some hobbying skills quickly!!
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Old 03-22-2010, 10:39 AM
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PS: the wing flex thing can be fixed by glueing the carbon reinforcing rods into the wing main spar. They are currently just a slide fit. I reason that if those break then the rest of the plane is going to be a total write off anyway.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:10 PM
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Question:

I am looking for a replacement cowling for my Wilga. I would like to fit a radial cowling and it should have a diameter of around 100mm no more.
Does anyone know of a cowl that will fit?
I would like to use a radial cowl to allow for better flow of cooling air into the motor and to the ESC.

PS: will post some pics of my motor mount once I Have completed it.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:31 PM
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Default wilga

Hi TimBle, it seems that I am just up the road from you (220km). I have just ordered the Sapac Wilga 2000 and cannot wait to get my hands on it. Been flying rc since 1971 and this will be my first rtf electric. It will be MY first rtf. Always done it the hard way, build from a balsa kit or scratch build. Once I have trhe Wiga in my hands I will decide on what mods must be done. I think that the motor mounts are not big a problem because a person can make them. I will be putting proper hinges onto all control surfaces, checking where the linkages flex and repair that and also adding bracing to the undercarriage and floats for some stiffening
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:20 PM
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Hi Andre,

Good choice in Foamie. The Wilga is probably the best flying foamie around. excellent trainer as well but not well suited to the Cape peninsula's windy weather.

220Km away is probably good weather

I've made a hack engine mount by fitting a plywood bulkhead to the plastic firewall and backmounting an Emax 2215-20 motor to it. Not the best motor but it'll do tll Cape Sail Planes gets some more spares in for the Black Tornado (SAPAC) brushless motor which is actually quite good.

I've fitted proper articulating hinges as well but the CA hinges actually work better. just use foam friendly CA and its sorted in minutes. Proper hinges makes a big difference to aileron control.

With the brushless motor the Wilga is quite aerobatic. great little plane but it has its flaws with the distributor assures me the manufacturer is fixing those
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:28 PM
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PS:I have also dropped the 8x6 triple blade prop and fitted an electrifly 9x6 2 blade. Wll give that a whirl this weekend.

One thing to watc out for with firewall mounted engine mounts is that they restrict the cooling airflow to the ESC and battery. I have literally cut a great big hole in the centre of mine to allow for this
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:42 PM
  #21  
Andre ZS1AZ
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Thanks for some extra info TimBle. 220km from you is Swellendam with much better flying weather all year round. We are having a fly-in on 17 & 18 April, weather permitting of course. If I receive my Wilga this week end, I might finish the mods by then. I am on leave so have some time on my hands but also some other chores to do. I would love to see some of your mods. As I said, my first foamie and first electric. I am tired of cleaning off the gunk after a flying session and glow fuel is now getting a bit expensive and not to mention the stuff that you must carry to the flying field.
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:16 AM
  #22  
TimBle
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No problem.

fly in this coming weekend. Hmmm, I must see what the other halfs plans are.

Another tiny issue I discovered over this weekend is that the supplied Lipo cells will not tolerate hard work for very long.
Admittedly the SAPAC Wilga was never meant to be flown in winds of 20km/hr (the airframe handles it well).
One pack, which was already a little suspect due a ditching in the Zandvlei a few months back, got hot enought to desolder a balancing lead. I handed it over to my instructor who would dispose of it at the suppliers Lipo battery waste collection bin.
The 2nd battery became very warm with the result it was a good 30 min before I could start charging it again. I switched over to a Hyperion VX G3 pack and it performed far better. It was cooler after the same work. The Hyperion packs are 35C, the supplied packs are only 10C. These are a worthwhile upgrade.

Last edited by TimBle; 04-20-2010 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:48 AM
  #23  
TimBle
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Hey Andre,

I hope my club chairman's spinning-from-the-sky-after-loosing-a-stabiliser-and-rudder Wilga 2000 has not put you off the plane. I suspect he did not read the badly-translated-from-the-Mandrin instructions where they call for bonding the stabiliser in place.

Just remember to glue it in as far aft as possible. Not so far that it impedes elevator operation. Wood glue or the supplied adhesive is good enough. Either will allow relatively easy removal of a broken stabiliser if you find yourself in that situation. I've only had to do it once after an overly excited Staffordshire Terrier came bounding up to me and threw itself on the Wilga. The only damage was a broken stab. Tough little bird but I'm outgrowing her quickly.
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:10 PM
  #24  
Andre ZS1AZ
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Hiya TimBle,
I must of missed that one but I did see that he was flying a different Wilga on Sunday. Well, Wednesday is the big day. Balsa, Beech, carbon rods and hinges are all waiting. It seems to me that the newer models are built a bit better than the older ones. Any comments? Might also just go over to my E-Flite 2.4 radio and goodies. See you around.
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Old 04-20-2010, 10:09 PM
  #25  
TimBle
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yeah the latest SAPAC kits are a definate improvement.
the cowl seems to have a nicer finish, the wings have decals that have been applied with greater care and the overall feel of the plane is just better, even the foam seems less brittle. What really stings is that the latest kits are way cheaper!! I think you will pay around R1700-00 and your kit will include floats, mine did not

Anyways, i've been flying the wings of mine (nearly). handling her well in the peninsula's winds.
My mods are holding up extremely well too and they have not added a bundle of weight

I seem to have got my dates for the fly in crossed up with another appointment. i thought it was the weekend of the 24th. Sorry I missed it. would have loved to be there. next time.
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