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Maxford Nieuport 28 ARF

Old 11-14-2008, 05:37 AM
  #1  
Kmot
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Default Maxford Nieuport 28 ARF

Anyone here flying the Maxford USA, Nieuport 28 ARF? If so, how do you like it?

I'm currently working on one.

I'm not allowed to post a picture yet.
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:10 PM
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Glacier Girl
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Got a bud who has one.

MAKE 100% sure it's CG is nose heavy for first flight!!!

You must use rudder and ailerons for turns, to keep the nose from dropping.

Has a nasty snap to it if you let it slow down too much.

And like most you need to fly it all the way to the ground, too slow and it tends to nose over.
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:35 PM
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Don't have the Nieuport but we do have the 50" Jenny made by them. Very nicely built and covered model. Flies like a champ too.

They seem to put out a really nice product. I got it for my son last Christmas and we have been very pleased with it.
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:40 PM
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Glacier Girl: Cool, thank you!

I see my picture posted anyway.
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Old 11-16-2008, 12:29 AM
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A couple of more pictures (if they will post):
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:27 AM
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I didn't end up liking the way the cowl looked with the first paint job so I just refinished it.
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:01 AM
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Lookin' good Kmot! I just love the way those machine guns are mounted on the Nieuport 28....are those included in the package?

Did you paint the entire camo yourself?...or did it come painted that way?

I know you placed it on the grass for aesthetic reasons....but if you want to take off or land on grass...those tiny wheels will markedly increase your chances of nosing over.
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Old 11-17-2008, 03:53 PM
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Thank you barmonkey!

Yes, I painted the entire airplane. It comes in the kit already covered in a light cream or tan color. See photo. I also painted the underside as well.

Indeed the Vickers machine guns are included in the kit. I painted them up like a version I saw in a museum photo.

I purchased the William Bros wheels and made an error in my guess of what size to buy. I typically take off and land on a groomed baseball diamond dirt infield so I think it will be okay there.
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Last edited by Kmot; 11-17-2008 at 03:57 PM. Reason: Added another photo.
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Old 11-17-2008, 08:03 PM
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How does it fly? DP
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:10 PM
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I'll let you know after the maiden flight.
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:30 PM
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Default Build Photos

I have been posting in a thread over at RCG but only one person has responded and shown any interest. I have received a lot more replies and interest here at WF so I figured I might as well post the build up photos in this thread.

When I bought this kit at my LHS I opened the box in the store and gave it a quick glance and it looked good. When I got it home and pulled all the parts out of the box I found a damaged wing, damaged cabane strut in the fuselage, and a cracked cowling. Instead of returning it I just decided to repair it. After all, in real life WWI they would have been making field repairs all the time, right? :p

I had to cut out a broken leading edge, and make a new one to splice back in. Then I covered it with what I had on hand, silver Ultracote.









I clamped the broken cabane and CA'd it back together.



I eventually repaired the crack in the cowl, as well as another crack that happened after mounting the cowl and test fitting a battery. I first tried liquid styrene cement, Didn't work. Then I tried tube styrene cement. Didn't work. Lastly, I used thin CA and kicker. That worked!

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Old 11-18-2008, 11:05 PM
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This kit comes with almost no instructions but if you have built a plane or two it isn't really needed.

So I built it and put it all together and really hated the way it looked!



That picture was taken Dec 2007. I hung it up in my shop and did other things. I intended to paint the model and only got around to it beginning 10 days ago.



I did the camo all free hand, not actually copying a real plane that ever existed. The stickers I got from Callie Graphics, the same sticker set she made for a review in Fly RC Magazine. It was just easier to order an existing set than spec out a custom set.





I purchased some 9G servos for use in this plane and installed them. It is a very tight squeeze in there. I also had to make my own linkage because the stuff that came in the kit hardware pack got damaged. I used Dubro micro hardware linkage.



The wing uses a servo that came from Tower Hobbies as a freebie.



The AR6100E receiver was a drawing prize at least years club Christmas dinner!



I installed a Ripmax XTRA 2829/10 motor from Hobby People and a KMS 18A esc also from HP.





And then I proceeded to smoke the esc by hooking up a battery in reverse using a borrowed jumper.

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Old 11-19-2008, 01:53 AM
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I purchased a Williams Bros pilot and wheels. I guess wrong on the size of the wheels and they are a bit to small but I will just live with that.

The goggles for the pilot were not in the package. An e-mail to WB and they sent me a replacement. I got the replacement, painted them, and then the spring loaded tweezers I was using popped and the goggles flew off somewhere in never-never land...

I painted the pilot and wheels. Then I followed the directions on the WB package on how to make axles and made them and they turned out quite nice. I used twisted copper wire to secure the wheels in place.

















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Old 11-20-2008, 12:05 AM
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Comments at any time are welcomed!

I went searching on the internet for color photos of the Vickers machine guns. The ones that come in the kit are painted high gloss black all over. I found a photo of a Vickers that had a green parkerizing on the barrel shroud and charcoal parkerizing on the rest of the assembly. Plus I learned the ammunition feed ramp was brass. So I painted up my Vickers to represent what I found in the photo.





The cabane struts are made from rectangular plywood and were covered with the light tan film. I stripped the covering, sanded the edges fair, and stained them golden mahogany.





I didn't want to have a tailwheel, but instead wanted a tail skid. So I cut off the loop of wire where the wheel would have mounted and made a skid and attached it to the wire.



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Old 11-20-2008, 06:49 AM
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The windscreen included in the kit is a piece of squared off plexi. I was looking at photos of Rickenbacker in his N28 and the windscreen on his plane. So I tried to make a psuedo close copy of something sorta way standoff looking.

I had just opened a can of coffee and noticed the thick aluminum seal could be useful. I used a piece of that foil to wrap around the tail skid I made. So now I cut out a pattern of foil and tried to make a windscreen from it.



Then I put a layer of 3/4oz fiberglass on it to strengthen it, and eventaully put two more layers of 2oz cloth on it.



I used a can that was the approximate curve of the fuselage to form the windshield against.



Here is the cured and trimmed new windscreen next to the plexi piece.



And then after cutting out the glazing portion.



I then primered it and attached it to the fuselage.

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Old 11-20-2008, 09:52 AM
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Nice addition of details, Kmot. They definatly have made it look much better. Kudos!
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Old 11-20-2008, 02:05 PM
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Hi Kmot,

On my N-18, I removed the covering and added stringers so I don't end up having the "saddle" look on the upper back deck. I don't know when I can fly it since it is still beyond my skill. I just start moving up to the Parkzone T-28 from flying 3 channel bi planes for years. In real life the N-18 killed lots of pilots due to its violent snap roll and tip stall at turns and at slow speed. I guess you may end up with a fast flying plane. BTW where are those decals coming from? Home made? DP
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:38 PM
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Thanks rhino!

DP: the vinyl stickers came from Callie Graphics. She had already made the stickers for the author who wrote a review in Fly RC Magazine, so to save time and effort and money I just ordered the same set.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:52 PM
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I wanted to make the undercarriage look a little better than just plain wire. I initially thought about gluing some wood to the wire and then sanding it fair. But then I remembered that K&S Metals had some "streamline tube" in their product line so I bought a couple pieces of 1/4" wide brass streamline tube. It is the perfect size for this particular model. I cut the pieces to length and then using an Xacto razor saw I slit them lengthwise.



This allowed me to push the piece over the wire.



I then used wood clothes pins, turned around inside the spring, to clamp the tube while I silver soldered it back together.





After all legs were soldered, a little bit of cleanup with a needle file and some sandpaper prepared the new aerodynamic undercarriage struts for painting.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:44 AM
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Using some heavy paper I cut out a template for the windscreen glazing. Wondering what to use for the glazing itself, I stared at a water bottle and saw a perfect solution. Pre-curved glass! So I used the template to cut out a piece of the plastic water bottle for the 'window'.





I used some RC-56 glue and then clamped it into place and left it to dry overnight.

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Old 11-21-2008, 04:22 AM
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After looking at the cowling for a few days I decided I didn't like the red/white/blue paint scheme so I did it over and just camoflauged it to match the fuselage and left a small red cowl ring in the front.







And this brings us up to the photos here, with the cowling refinished and the undercarriage struts painted.





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Old 11-21-2008, 05:47 PM
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Next up I made some support struts for the horizontal stabiliser. Just some balsa sticks sanded fair and CA'd to the fuse and stab. I then brushed them with some stain.



After posting some inquiries here on Watt Flyer about rigging wire and thread I went on the hunt. I bought some fly tying floss and some actual wire and the wire turned out to be the best looking (of course) and so I have started the rigging process. I first rigged the stab and fin:





And then using a #59 drill bit and pin vise I drilled holes in the undercarriage struts so that I can solder the riggin wires into them.



I now need to figure out how I am going to do the wing rigging, and make the supports at the lower fuselage points.
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Old 11-21-2008, 08:44 PM
  #23  
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Beaut job on the 28 Kmot. On my Alb DIII I used wire as well and bought a small length of tiny aluminium tubing to cut up into short lengths and use as crimp lugs. The good thing is you can adjust the tension to where you want it and then squash, they can also be 'unsquashed' to loosen off again.

I also had the problem of securing the rigging to fuselage points and solved it with some nice little eyelets that the hobby shop had for model yachts (I think).

A 1mm drill through the skin and into the frame of the fuselage and a drop of epoxy and the securing point is done, strong too.

Great pictures on your thread, thanks for showing.

Steve
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Old 11-21-2008, 10:18 PM
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Steve, thank you for the fantastic tip! And photos!

I'm going to copy your technique!
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:34 PM
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Good work! Thanks for showing your methods...should be able to use some of this down the road.
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