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A call to all Miss Stik builders

Old 12-20-2008, 04:11 AM
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FlyWheel
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Question A call to all Miss Stik builders

I'm not really sure if this thread belongs in this, the beginners, or the builders forum. But seeing as this forum gets the most member views, I'll post it here and let the mods decide if it doesn't belong.

I'm considering a Miss Stik as my next plane. I've flown one before, and love how it "practically flies itself", as well as it's slow, almost lighter than air flying characteristics. My question is, how difficult is this kit to build? I want a kit, not an RTF or ARF mainly because I want to be able to choose the guts and skin.

Your comments/advice/tips?
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:20 PM
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Al_M
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All it is is cutting sticks to length and gluing them together.
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:28 PM
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Hey FlyWheel,

Here is my build thread on the Miss Stick Junior: http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...ght=miss+stick

Maybe that will help; it was my very first build. I'm not the handiest of people, and I still was successful. It definitely bit me with the bug to build another. Next up for me will be a laser kit from Mountain Models (either the Clipped Wing Cub or the Lucky ACE).

If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me or ask here.
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:50 AM
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I read yours, it was one of the reasons I am considering the Miss. I wanted to hear the experiences from others, I know you aren't the only Miss Stik owner/builder.
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:01 PM
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The Miss Stik, or the Jr. version I built, would have been considered a pretty easy build 20 years ago. These days we are all spoiled by the very fast building kits from Mountain models {love them) and Stevens Aero (really love them), and kits like the Miss Stik where you have to (shock! horror!) cut pieces from sticks are considered "builder's kits". In fact Miss Stik is still not a difficult build. You have to go slowly, cut the pieces precisely and glue them in place carefully making sure to keep things straight and symmetrical, but it's not that hard. If you goof up, cut the offending piece away and replace it - there's extra wood in the kit. It takes a couple of weeks instead of a couple of days to frame up, but that's not so horrible.

Use a lightweight covering such as SoLite - the standard covering materials shrink too much and can warp the structure. And I had to move the CG well forward from the one shown on the plans. You get a really nice-looking plane when you're done.
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Old 12-25-2008, 01:15 AM
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I found the cg shown worked fine. As you found out, moving it forward also works. That is a very nice trait. I used Ultracote transparent light covering. My Jr loops(inside and outside) and it will roll.
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Old 12-28-2008, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by tom1968 View Post
The Miss Stik, or the Jr. version I built, would have been considered a pretty easy build 20 years ago. These days we are all spoiled by the very fast building kits from Mountain models {love them) and Stevens Aero (really love them), and kits like the Miss Stik where you have to (shock! horror!) cut pieces from sticks are considered "builder's kits". In fact Miss Stik is still not a difficult build. You have to go slowly, cut the pieces precisely and glue them in place carefully making sure to keep things straight and symmetrical, but it's not that hard. If you goof up, cut the offending piece away and replace it - there's extra wood in the kit. It takes a couple of weeks instead of a couple of days to frame up, but that's not so horrible.

Use a lightweight covering such as SoLite - the standard covering materials shrink too much and can warp the structure. And I had to move the CG well forward from the one shown on the plans. You get a really nice-looking plane when you're done.
OK, cutting sticks and gluing them in place with precision I can do, I didn't spend ten years as a machinist without some of it rubbing off.

And balsa sticks I can buy separately at my LHS too, so I don't have to worry even if I do botch a cut or two. The claimed ease of this build and the plane's flying characteristics is definitely selling me on this plane as a first build (meaning I won't be terrified of smashing it when it's done).

Another question: What would you (meaning everyone) say would be the easiest to use for a first time builder as far as shrinking the covering is concerned; an iron or a heat gun?
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Old 12-29-2008, 12:54 AM
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The iron is more useful. It can be used everywhere. You will eventually want both. I seldom use the heat gun for covering, but I wouldn't be without it.
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Al_M View Post
The iron is more useful. It can be used everywhere. You will eventually want both. I seldom use the heat gun for covering, but I wouldn't be without it.
Hmm, I would hve thunk (in my inexperience) that a gun would be good for general overall shrinking and then the iron for spot treatment (small wrinkled areas), as it can be restricted to a particular area. Any good pages/posts on using an iron?

For that matter any and all tips on this particular build are welcome (hint)
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:17 AM
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Well, you need the iron to tack down the covering and to secure it to the balsa. The gun will shrink it after the covering is applied.

I would hesitate using a gun on the Miss Stick Jr. It is very easy to induce unwanted warp (ask me how I know).
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:59 AM
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Default Iron or Gun?

Hello Flywheel,
I've never built that model, but do have some suggestions on covering with MicroLite, SoLite, Nelson LiteFilm. These are all basically the same coverings and generally are called the "Micro" coverings. Thinner, lighter and somewhat less tear-resistant than even the transparent "Lite" coverings from UltraCote, MonoKote, etc.
As you mght expect, they are applied with a lower (much lower, actually) iron temperature than any other covering. The regular setting will melt a Micro faster than you can move the iron. A second or two on one spot with the Heat gun will burn a hole and you will have a major mess.
Having said that, if you find and use the correct temperature they are no harder to use than any iron-on, and in some ways, easier. Great shrinkability, easy to "mold" around compound curves and a very good adhesive.
Here's my Corben Super Ace build thread, page 3. If you go to post 61, I've started covering the wing with a Micro.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=33844&page=3
On page 4, post 77, there's a photo-description of iron-on hinges using the covering. Later on this page I mess up the fuselage trying to do too much with one piece. You can see where I peel off the old piece, how good the adhesive is.
Here's another iron-on covering tutorial;
http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/h...-covering.html
Here are some models covered with SoLite/MicroLite. No heat gun, just the iron. Once a piece is covered, I turn the iron up 1 click and "Wave" it over the section, close to, but not touching the material. It will wrinkle up but as you move the iron past, it will tighten again, even more.
Hope this helps!
Ron
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Old 12-29-2008, 02:42 AM
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Thank you! That clears up a lot! So you don't actually "iron" the covering like you would a pair of slacks, but "hover" the iron over it. letting the heat radiating from it heat shrink the covering, right?

That would be much more controlable than the "blow-torch" method of a gun.

Last edited by FlyWheel; 12-29-2008 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:29 AM
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Default You Got It!

Hello Flywheel,
Yes, that's exactly right. After you've stuck the covering to the outside of the framework, covering both sides (never shrink a partially-covered section, like just the bottom of a wing. Cover the entire piece, then shrink it) you turn up the heat slightly and let the heat radiate onto the covering without touching the material. The time you leave the iron on (over) a section is directly related to how much it will shrink.
Try just running the iron over the top of the wing, flip it over, run the iron over the bottom. Let it cool slightly and you will see most of the work (shrinking) has been done. There are usually a few wrinkles, generally near corners. Go back and work the wrinkles out, just "chase" them off the nearest edge. As you apply heat to one area, it will create wrinkles on either side. Remove the iron and they disappear.
It's an easily-learned skill, but usually will take a few covering jobs until you really master curves, color changes, fancy trim schemes, pinstripes.
Check out the RC Airplane Advisor link I posted, it's a very good tutorial.
Good Luck!
Ron
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Old 12-29-2008, 04:37 AM
  #14  
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Hey Flywheel,
I've just finished my first plan build and I also was dreading covering it, I found this thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711624
It really helped me and bruce who is running it is great, very very helpfull.
-Reuben
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:59 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Sky Sharkster View Post
Hello Flywheel,
Yes, that's exactly right. After you've stuck the covering to the outside of the framework, covering both sides (never shrink a partially-covered section, like just the bottom of a wing. Cover the entire piece, then shrink it) you turn up the heat slightly and let the heat radiate onto the covering without touching the material. The time you leave the iron on (over) a section is directly related to how much it will shrink.

Try just running the iron over the top of the wing, flip it over, run the iron over the bottom. Let it cool slightly and you will see most of the work (shrinking) has been done. There are usually a few wrinkles, generally near corners. Go back and work the wrinkles out, just "chase" them off the nearest edge. As you apply heat to one area, it will create wrinkles on either side. Remove the iron and they disappear.

It's an easily-learned skill, but usually will take a few covering jobs until you really master curves, color changes, fancy trim schemes, pinstripes.
Check out the RC Airplane Advisor link I posted, it's a very good tutorial.
Good Luck!
Ron
Yes! I have read it (the RCAA Tute). In fact, I have it bookmarked, and I plan to print it out too, as I have done with Kevin's MSjr. build thread (41 sheets of legal size paper, printed on both sides ).
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29098

I plan to use UltraCote because I want all the "feathers" a Trans. violet. The pic you posted on another thread...

...definitely sold me on that. And so far as I've seen UC is the only maker that offers that color. The fuse will be transparent too, probably red, but that may change.

One more question concerning covering, I noticed on Kevin's thread that he covered the bird before installing the "gizzards". Is this common practice? I know that covering the various parts is easier before assembling them, but installation of the guts before covering would also be easier, I would think, and that would require at least some assembly, again, I Would Think.
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Old 12-31-2008, 01:07 AM
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Default Covering First?

Hello Flywheel,
Yes, Jerry T did a great job on that covering! His work is always like that, a real craftsman.
The installation of the controls (servos, pushrods, ESC, etc) is usually done before covering, it's much easier. However, say you have the pushrods sticking out of the fuselage at the rear, attached to the rudder/elevator. It will be very hard to cover around them.
What I usually do is hook up the controls with the fuselage completely uncovered. Center the servos, adjust the control throws, make small adjustments to the wire ends to get everything the way it should be.
Then, if the rear clevis' are the threaded type, detach them from the pushrods, elevator and rudder control horns, take the horns and plates off, cover the fuselage and tail surfaces. Re-attach the horns and clevis. It may sound like a lot of work, but the time and frustration you save (covering) is more than worth it.
By the way, I use the threaded clevis at the tail end only, a "Z" bend at the servo end. Not only for this (covering) reason, but also so I can make fine adjustments at the field without trying to work inside the fuselage.
I'm sure there are other methods, but that's what works for me.
Ron
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:01 PM
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I know about putting the bend at the servo end, that's the way it is on my Star, it has to be; the holes in the clevis are too big, there would be too much slop. But what is a "threaded clevis"? Is this something that would allow the control wire to pivot at the clevis/wire interface (I hope)?

What I have now is a rigid connection that forces the wire to bend at this point. And I don't like it, it actually twists the tail feathers!
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:46 AM
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Default Clevis + Control horn

Hello Flywheel,
Here's some examples of threaded clevis' and control horn connections. The larger size are threaded 2.56 and the smaller ones are for .032 wire.
That's what I have installed on the Corben Super Ace (yellow plane. The 2.56 are more suitable for "400" size planes and larger.
All the micro parts are made by DuBro. The larger sizes are available from Goldberg, Sullivan, Dubro.
Hope this helps!
Ron
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:44 AM
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Thanks, that's exactly what i'm looking for, it would also make adjustment easier and more precise.
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:13 AM
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I hope y'all don't think I'm just asking questions just to see myself post, with no intention to build. I do plan to glue this bird together! But I can't even buy the kit until paychecks start coming in again and some of my bills get paid. Call me responsible, call me too practical; guilty as charged. So, lacking the wood at the moment I though I'd get as many questions out of the way in the meantime so at least I'll have all my info in a single thread to refer back to.

That said, my next question is this; is it feasable to put a folding prop on this plane? If so, which one would you recommend, assuming the original Miss Stik? I'm planning on using this bird as a floater, and so the less drag the better. And getting the prop out of the windstream when it's not actually pulling the plane seems like a real good way to do that.
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Old 01-12-2009, 01:20 AM
  #21  
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Default Folder For the Stick?

Hi Flywheel,
Sure, you can use a folding prop on this model. If I remember correctly, Kev used one on his, also. The stock "Speed 300" usually uses the "Tipsy" prop, a CAM 4.7 x 4.2 or thereabouts. CAM folders are great, I get mine from Hobby-Lobby.com. They'll seem expensive compared to $2.00 plastic ones, but they last nearly forever.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/camfold.htm
The "Tipsy" is a pusher design, make sure you get the "Tractor" prop for the "Stick".
Ron
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Old 01-13-2009, 02:02 AM
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That's good! But, 4.7 x 4.2? Will that be enough? Hobby Lobby recommends a 10 x 7 slow fly prop (regular, not folding). That's a big difference.

Or a big misprint!
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:52 AM
  #23  
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Default Geared or Direct Drive?

Hello Flywheel.
The Tipsy prop is used for a direct-drive 280 or 300. It won't turn a much larger prop running 1:1.
If you're using a gear drive the prop would be much larger; How much larger depends on the gear ratio and input voltage.
You should be able to get a close idea by plugging in your power system info here;
http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp
Good Luck!
Ron
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