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Stryker F27C or Upgrade Stryker F27B?

Old 07-25-2006, 11:44 PM
  #1  
jsbzmcdaniel
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Default Stryker F27C or Upgrade Stryker F27B?

Hello all!

I am fairly new to RC planes and am now hooked! I have two planes (HZ Firebird Freedom & PZ Stryker). I am now flying the Stryker with ease and now am looking to increase the speed and response of the plane. I see that the new Stryker F27C will come with a lipo battery, and brushless motor. I am trying to find out if buying the new F27C would be more benificial than upgrading parts on my current plane.

What would you reccomend as far as great upgrades to the stryker and a location to purchase them? I want to compare the two and see where I will be money wise.

Thanks for your help!

Jim
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:41 AM
  #2  
stroland
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the "c" model is pretty hot,way more power than a stock styker. unlimited clime,80 mph they say. you could replace all the stock guts and go brushless. What I did is use a eflite park 400 out runner. (49$) two blue brid micro servos(12$ each)a hitech trans.(used,no rec 20$)tower pro 15 amp esc(15$)4 ch. gws rec (18$+8$ cristal) Wach your range onlya1000 feet.Ive flew mine out of range once. and a 35$3s 1.800 8c lipo. flight time is good just mille around and it will fliy 20 minutes. but get in it and it flys way better than stock. weights less has more power. clime is 35 to 45. comeing out of a dive it will go strait up for awile.the best prop seems to be a 8-6 wich just fits between the rudders. at frist i cut down a 11-4.7 and it was slower but climed like a truck in low gear up a hill. Its faster than stock to, but its not a missle with a out runner on it.Putting the outrunner on the was a after thought it was on a 3d yak till i smashed it.So for a bout 134$ you can bild a brushless stryker.Yes, wellcome to the dark side!! the c model is 250$
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:43 AM
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F27C ARF horizon
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PKZ4275

F27c RTF Pzone
http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Def...ProdID=PKZ4200

With the ARF you'll have to buy a Radio, batt, and Rx. Spektum DX6 ($189 incl. Rx and 4servos) is a good choice for now and the future. Batts around $60-$80.

To upgrade yours you'll need a BL motor, BL ESC, mount, lipo, servos, Radio and RX? At least $250 or more IMO.

$299 for the RTF isn't all that bad and you have the old plane to scavenge some parts from or fly.

If you do the upgrade to your plane the parts will always be there to use as you please.

Depends on what you want to do.

i've got the radio, ESC, lipos, servos, and Rx already. All I'll need is motor and mount to upgrade mine.

good luck

Last edited by radralph; 07-26-2006 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:10 PM
  #4  
jsbzmcdaniel
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Thanks for the replies! Being new to this hobby I am not sure which online vendors are recommended. Does anyone have a list of vendors with a good rep to purchase such items?

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:46 AM
  #6  
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Default F27B upgrade or F27C

OK here we go! I am also new to flying as I have only been doing this for about one and a half months. You can make this hobby cheap or exspensive. As far as the F27C goes, it sounds like a good deal considering it is RTF. However, if it does that kind of speed that it says it does and you are new....that could be a bad combo. I bought my first Stryker and beat it all to hell before I could even fly it for 2 minutes. I went LiPo and OMG what a difference just the batteries made. It is true that speed makes for easier flying (in my opinion). Back to your question about what you should do. I started buying fuses and shopped motors and now have 3 almost 4 strykers. My first built one uses a E-Flite 2700kv $74.99- 2/1800mah 3s Lipo $110.00- Castle Creations 45amp ESC $110.95 - 2/Hitec HS81MG $45.00 - LiPo Balance charger for house and field $120.00 - Spektrum DX6 Radio $199.99 - now between all the Deans connectors, props, adapters, fuse, fins, and all the extra stuff you must buy to get these things in the air it would be safe to say I have spent $100-150.00 on all the extras. So, you add it all up and see what you get. I built the exact same Styker Wednesday night but have an Align 430L 3550KV motor and a tower pro 30 amp. Had to buy another receiver for my spektrum radio so all of the guts cost me about $160.00 not including all the extras to actually build the plane. I do not know how fast they run as far as mph but they both haul butt!!! I am still new to all of this so I am sure I am not using the correct batteries and or prop sizes, I can only fly them for about 4 minutes and let me tell you, it is 4 minutes of pleasure, those babies climb high and move fast. At this point in time it would be safe to say that the F27C is probably a GREAT DEAL. But hey, it's no fun unless you put the work into it yourself. That is my pleasure. Take a look at The Boys!! I hope this was a little helpful, I think you will be better off by purchasing the F27C.
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Old 08-01-2006, 05:10 AM
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only 4 minutes of flight?
I put a 3200 kv on a minislinger with a 6x4 prop and had a 3cell 1200 lipo and could only fly about 4 minutes on it. It was pulling way too much from the battery and not very efective. I then went to a 1450 kv motor and with the same prop and battery could fly for 20 minutes and had more speed. I have a Styker with an e-flight six series 2000 kv 6x5.5 prop a 35 amp esc 3 cell 2100 lipo and get 20 minute flights. One day I will try a 4 cell and see what that will do. I have learned the higher KV motor the smaller the prop with less pitch you should run unless you gear it.

OOPs .. Had to make a correction I have a 6x5.5 prop on styker not a 7x5.5 Aslo 20 minute flights on stryker is around half throtle range When I get on it the flight times do shorten

Last edited by FlyBri; 08-03-2006 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 08-01-2006, 07:05 AM
  #8  
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Jim,

Let me make an unpopular suggestion, just so you'll have something to think about.

You're familiar with the Stryker, and it seems logical to upgrade it and pursue the same path with more power. I'm going to suggest that it isn't. Further, I'm going to suggest that if you're asking the questions you've raised, it would be best to put off getting a high-speed plane.

Handling a plane at high speed is nothing like a slower bird. 70mph is nothing like 40mph. 80+ is starting to get a little serious. The potential for mayhem starts to go way up. Until you have the game down cold, I'd suggest it might be best to hang out in the 30-40mph zone, instead getting some kind of plane that would teach turning, rudder and throttle skills. That kind of thing. To some extent, the slower the better.

I'm not really concerned for you, your plane, or your pocket book -- though all are at risk. The problem is, when you're not solid on your game and your bird gets serious speed, the chance that you'll damage something or hurt someone else go way up.

Maybe I'm thinking about this a little more than usual today since I just saw a relatively new flyer pile in a 70+ plane not far from another flyer. Just "operator error," he "doesn't usually do that." On the other hand, I've seen it far too often over the last year in particular. Maybe it's partly because nobody's saying "slow down a little until you know the road."

So I just did. Might be worth considering. Besides, some of the most fun planes are actually fairly slow (and relatively safe).


Dave

Last edited by timocharis; 08-01-2006 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:52 AM
  #9  
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The F27B is a fairly sedate plane IMO. Underpowered in fact. If you put some time on the simulator you should be able to fly it. Landings are about the hardest thing I've had to continue to work on. So many flyers seem to move from plane to plane looking for more excitement. That is why Ive decided to upgrade and continue to fly the Stryker. It's fun. I believe it will be easier to fly with power in reserve. Less worry about winds taking you far away and the ability to get back if they do. It also teaches elevon (aileron) flying. I've bought a beaver to assemble and fly to learn rudder control. Later I will put them all together I hope.

I consider the 27B as a trainer. The beaver too for assembly and rudder. If the F27C would have been out, I would have bought it instead of the B. You can always fly slower.

Have fun,
Ralph
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Old 08-01-2006, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by timocharis View Post
Jim,


So I just did. Might be worth considering. Besides, some of the most fun planes are actually fairly slow (and relatively safe).


Speed = fun

I really don't think that some of the "most fun" planes fly slow.

However flying the stryker B to learn on is a smart idea, going to the stryker brushless would be a good next step.
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:59 PM
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The only problem with the F27 it is made of regular foam. If that plane was made of EPP you would not be able to beat it. I have several FMA Razors and let me tell you you can run them into a pole and not do much damage. I wish they would make the F27 in EPP. Doc in Potter PA.
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:09 AM
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The fact the you can but a complete body replacement for $20 makes the stryker affordable for people learning to fly.
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:11 AM
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It glues back together in seconds with safe CA and activator too. Trust me on this one!
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by doc11 View Post
The only problem with the F27 it is made of regular foam. If that plane was made of EPP you would not be able to beat it. I have several FMA Razors and let me tell you you can run them into a pole and not do much damage. I wish they would make the F27 in EPP. Doc in Potter PA.
The F27B or C version is made with Z-Foam. A foam that is suppose to have the best properties of both EPP and Elapor. Highly durable....however it doesn't matter what kind of foam you are using when you hit a hard object moving at high speed. Case in point is the FMA Razor pictured below.
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Old 08-17-2006, 06:25 PM
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Hey Everyone,
Just wanted to say hi. I am new here and am also hooked on the Stryker. I have a B. I am planning to finish out the season with it and begain to build my own custom Stryker. The plan is LI-Po battery, Balsa alerons, Futoba (porbably mispelled but you know what I mean) box with the servos included, and down the line, a brushless motor. I don't want too much new speed at once. I have a couple of things that I do have questions on.

1) What's the deal with the paint? I have tried poly-ing the body and using spray paint. (added a lot of weight and chipped badly in a rough crash. I tried painting with a brush with an acrilyc and sealing it with Elmer's wood glue, (the glue became a paste when the bottom of the plane got wet, morning dew)
2) I read that people are attaching balsa alerons to the plane. If I do this what kind of hinges should I use and what mods do I have to make to mount them?
3) What else am I missing as far as customizing the Stryker?

Thanks for you help.
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:40 PM
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I just semi-crashed a stryker B.
What is it made off?
It is not like the aerohog / silverlit EPP foam, 'spunge smooshy and flexible' it feels 'dry', like many packaging materials.

What kind of glue to glue it with? (Epoxy? wich one? )

My experiences till now:
http://www.barend.org/_vti_bin/shtml...20parkzone.htm
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:24 PM
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[quote=x-twin;104132]I just semi-crashed a stryker B.
What is it made off?
It is not like the aerohog / silverlit EPP foam, 'spunge smooshy and flexible' it feels 'dry', like many packaging materials.

What kind of glue to glue it with? (Epoxy? wich one? )



I use foam safe CA :


I think the best thing to do is tape your plane down before you learn to fly. A thin layer of packaging tape makes a world of difference.
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:21 AM
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That's the stuff right there!
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:48 AM
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We took our styker c out Sunday and maidened it. We are using a 2100 pro lite thunderpower. Motor not even warm. Battery after a 5 minute screaming flight by husband barely warm. Recharged battery. (new want to break in a little easy) put 730 mah back into it. Flew it again husband took it off and the little screamer went. Handed me the sticks to get a feel for it. Slow and steady. Bumped up a little power. But not an experienced fast flyer. Floats like a dream. The battery hasn't had to be checked yet but will this morning for mah taken out. Flight was about 15 minutes, plenty of power when landing.

It was a good fly day.

I have made templates of the fins to cut vinyl for and added flames and some advertising to enable us to see it better. It flashes in the sun.
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:04 PM
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Thumbs down i start to 'hate' it

http://www.barend.org/stryker%20f27%...roduct_bad.htm
I am starting to dislike this thing, for i do not know what foam this Z-foam is and with what european foam glue i can glue it.
And even when it flys great, but with a little less then perfect landing, this 'dry' not so bendable foam just rupture (tears?) behind nose cone even. see url above.... Hobby zone / parkzone do not respond to technical questions?
is Z foam polyprophylene, polystyrene, polytreene?? )(!*&£(*&!"^£^&%!"$£%
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:22 PM
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I have no idea what you are talking about, this foam is easy to glue and only takes seconds.


This plane hit the pavement at WOT and still to this day flys.



Pick up the chunks of foam and glue them back together. Really couldn't be any easier.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post
I have no idea what you are talking about, this foam is easy to glue and only takes seconds.
This plane hit the pavement at WOT and still to this day flys.
Pick up the chunks of foam and glue them back together. Really couldn't be any easier.
I have 3 EPP planes, they have hit about anything, never broke.
And like i say on that internet page (url) it looks like we do not have this toxic CA glue.
We have some other stuff, it also glues 'milkshake cup' styrene, but not this z-foam, that it melts.
very fast glues, for as far as available melt it too. Shoe Goo, i dont know what that is, but we do not have it.
I have tried 2 'black market' glues now, they dont pick on to this z-foam.
Epoxy's: not for polyethylene, polypropylene etc.... so i do not try that stuff yet, and also, since no solvents, it takes at least 20 ouers to dry etc...
I thought (my mistake) that since it looked like EPP, it was EPP but that it aint.
All i found is that it is a 'foam hybride' of 2 foams. But dryer and less flexible than EPP. This is great if you go brushless and above lets say 60 Mph. But i do not do those speeds in the small fields we have and a lot of buildings and trees. I do not need stiff 'Z-foam' i wanted EPP. Well, the waiting and anticipation was nice, but not worth 170 euro's....

PS: The taping the plane in for pre-flight strengten i read here and there, that wouldn'twork either. The 'camouflage' paint coat comes right of in chips. So taping is very frustrating.
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:30 PM
  #23  
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I agree the paint has a hard time sticking to the foam, BUT what the tape does is apon impact it forced the stress of the crash out to a much wider area causing the PSI to be distributed, maybe a little swelling but keeps the plane in tact. This keeps the foam from snapping into two allowing the plane to take far harder impacts and maintaining the ability to continue to fly.

I can't imagine that the glue we use here state side is not available over there.

BTW a little goes a very long way, if you can't find any let us know and i am sure someone will put it on eBay for you.
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Old 09-18-2006, 08:02 PM
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Foam safe CA glue is not the same as regular CA. Buy the stuff in the picture and try it.
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:06 PM
  #25  
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Hey guys, I just bought a Plug And Play f-27c, i currently have the f-27b, I was under the impression that it was "plug and play" all the cervo wires on my f-27b are 5 pin, and on the new body they are 3, have any of you had this problem? Please reply back, thanks!
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