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Mini Ultra stick (E-Fight)

Old 01-04-2006, 01:11 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by losi24 View Post
it this plane meant as just a fun flyer? or is it some hot aerobatic performer? it sounds really fun!
This is the type of plane that can be what you want it to be depending on the Radio gear and power system you chose.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:13 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Rugar View Post
Just because you have lots of power does not mean you have to use it all. That's what the throttle is for . Just learn some throttle management and don't fly it faster then your comfortable with, keeping it above stall speed of course. Are you using a computer radio? If you are, reduce your EPA and add a lot of EXPO to make your controls a lot less sensitive. If not, move your control rods closer to the center of the servo arms, and in the outside holes of the control horns. This will give you a lot less surface throw and make the model react slower to help you keep up.
Yeah, I have a new spektrum radio and I'm gonna do everything you mentioned, I'm gonna fly this bird whatever it takes, It's gonna be a lot more crash proof with the four bottles of 5min epoxy and all.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:16 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
Yeah, I have a new spektrum radio and I'm gonna do everything you mentioned, I'm gonna fly this bird whatever it takes, It's gonna be a lot more crash proof with the four bottles of 5min epoxy and all.

Don't go to crazy with the epoxy. The more weight you add, the faster you will have to fly it to keep it above stall speed.
Also make sure you go the correct way with the EXPO. On a Hitec Radio neg EXPO makes the controls softer with the sticks around center. On JR Radios I think its the opposite. Make sure you read your manual to get the EXPO setup correctly. Going the wrong way with the EXPO will get you in even deeper trouble. I don't know which way the EXPO needs to be with that new system.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:38 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Rugar View Post

Don't go to crazy with the epoxy. The more weight you add, the faster you will have to fly it to keep it above stall speed.
Also make sure you go the correct way with the EXPO. On a Hitec Radio neg EXPO makes the controls softer with the sticks around center. On JR Radios I think its the opposite. Make sure you read your manual to get the EXPO setup correctly. Going the wrong way with the EXPO will get you in even deeper trouble. I don't know which way the EXPO needs to be with that new system.
I'm may be exaggerating the about the epoxy a little There really wasnt that much damage:o If I would have switched on full flaps it should have slowed things down right? That is why I need to dampen things down so I can get used to all this stuff.
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:48 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
If I would have switched on full flaps it should have slowed things down right? That is why I need to dampen things down so I can get used to all this stuff.
I don't know. I have never messed around with flaps or air brakes before. I still have to figure out how to set them up on mine. That's why I got this plane was so I could play around with a new flight function. I'm not sure how it would work in your case because I'm assuming (there goes that word again) that you are using 2 servos in the wing and 4 servos total?
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:54 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Rugar View Post
I don't know. I have never messed around with flaps or air brakes before. I still have to figure out how to set them up on mine. That's why I got this plane was so I could play around with a new flight function. I'm not sure how it would work in your case because I'm assuming (there goes that word again) that you are using 2 servos in the wing and 4 servos total?
Yeah, 4 servos total, I have the flaperon function set up, so when you flip on the flaps you still have some aileron function, but even if I would have activated them I still had WAY to much elevator throw, so I gonna hack the end points WAY back and add a LOT more expo and make sure it is in the right direction.
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Old 01-04-2006, 02:01 AM
  #132  
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Just make sure that you are SEVERAL mistakes high before flipping that flap switch, so you have plenty of time to shut it off if things don't work as planned.
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Old 01-04-2006, 02:06 AM
  #133  
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My usual practice is to be at least 8 mistakes high, but tonight I couldnt even get 1/2 And the mistake I made was at least a 2 or a 3
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:04 AM
  #134  
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Evening MUS fans,

I ran my watt meter on the 12X6E ACP today. It pulled 25 AMPs peak at 250 watts WOT static. I flew her today with that prop. very nice speed with good verticle. I could cruse around just below 1/2 throttle. The MUS will fly pretty slow even with out flaps, however it's best to land her with some speed.

Touch in go's were a blast. I wish someone else was there to shoot some video for me. So there I was having a blast all by myself. Tonorrow its going to be about a 10 MPH winds in the morning. I'll try to get some video of her. Tomorrow I may try her with a 10X7 to see how much speed I can pull out of her.

CTD
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:08 AM
  #135  
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this airplane looks and sounds like a blast! i may have to cancel my idea of the Spirit 100 or the Siren and save for this instead!
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Old 01-04-2006, 07:20 PM
  #136  
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Talking My new favorite plane!!!

Hi Folks,

This plane can be whatever you want it to be. lunatic or Kitty cat

480 E-Flite outrunner motor
40 amp controller
12X6E prop
3 cell 2100 LiPoly
Optic 6 and Hitec receiver

I added 50% exponential on the ailerons to take off the edge

The build was easy with the exceptions of having to work the control surfaces for a while to loosen them up and apparently during manufacturing the control rod guides get crushed when the edges are trimmed. I had to use an exacto knife to route the tubes out so the rods would slide easier. (Apparently this is a know problem so make sure you check on this)

Take off is a little squirrely - it pulls right (it could be the packed snow runway ) Once in the air and after a few 3 mistake high orbits the plane and me just settled in. Little trim req'd other than a little down elevator.

Loops both tight and loose were straight forward. Rolls were fast and crisp. I really enjoyed the plane staying put with 4 point rolls. Low and slow with a few touch and goes were a bunch of fun. Inverted was stable with only a little down req'd. Swinging the 12X6 made the plane hang.

I think I will try an 11X7 prop for comparison but overall the plane is excellant - I hope a bunch of you have the chance to fly and compare different configurations

<Jeff
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:15 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Heightisgood View Post
Hi Folks,

This plane can be whatever you want it to be. lunatic or Kitty cat

480 E-Flite outrunner motor
40 amp controller
12X6E prop
3 cell 2100 LiPoly
Optic 6 and Hitec receiver

I added 50% exponential on the ailerons to take off the edge

The build was easy with the exceptions of having to work the control surfaces for a while to loosen them up and apparently during manufacturing the control rod guides get crushed when the edges are trimmed. I had to use an exacto knife to route the tubes out so the rods would slide easier. (Apparently this is a know problem so make sure you check on this)

Take off is a little squirrely - it pulls right (it could be the packed snow runway ) Once in the air and after a few 3 mistake high orbits the plane and me just settled in. Little trim req'd other than a little down elevator.

Loops both tight and loose were straight forward. Rolls were fast and crisp. I really enjoyed the plane staying put with 4 point rolls. Low and slow with a few touch and goes were a bunch of fun. Inverted was stable with only a little down req'd. Swinging the 12X6 made the plane hang.

I think I will try an 11X7 prop for comparison but overall the plane is excellant - I hope a bunch of you have the chance to fly and compare different configurations

<Jeff
Mine pulls hard to the right also on take off, which I'd expect, but this seems like more than other planes I have flown. On the grass it's easer to control. The only trouble I have had was with the LG. It broke on a landing that was pretty soft. I beefed it up with some light ply and it is better than when new. I also had to do this to my Mini Funtana, now it's rock solid. I don't understand why they dont beef up this aera on these planes. I know the idea is to keep em as light as possible but with the BL systems we are running the xtra weight is nothing!! I didn't see any change what so ever in the way the MF or the MUS flew after adding this plate of light ply. The piece i put on was as wide as the fuse and about 5 inches long.

Over all, I couldnt be happer with the MUS. BTW I'm also running the 480/1020. It's like putting a Hemi V-8 in a Pinto!! [Pinto, I'm letting my age show]

CTD
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:33 PM
  #138  
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CTD,

The landing gear coming off is an inherent characteristic of all sticks regardless of size and power method.

Regarding the pulling tendency. My Das Bipe Stick used to do the same. At first I though it was the tail wheel all along. It was not, the main gear was not aligned properly (it has to be right on the money). Depending on how the main gear was adjusted it would pull one way or the other.

On grass the tendency dissapeared I guess because of the added drag the grass presented the model with. I ended up spending a fair amount of time until it only pulls very slightly to the left on paved surfaces.
 
Old 01-04-2006, 10:47 PM
  #139  
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Talking like the Funtana

I have 4 friends who have the Funtana and the one consistant complaint is that the landing carriage is shall we say "underwhelming".

For a couple of grams of extra support I believe it is worth it. (insert epoxy)

I reinforced the LG just for that purpose.

With respect to the pull to the right - I had a buddy hold the tail of the plane until I got it up to speed and she took off like a champ. I've only flown the Stick twice so I guess I need to concentrate on rudder and elevator more during takeoff. In the air I still love the plane.

Current Hangar includes:

Tribute
Mini Hot Rod
Kadet 42
Super Miss
Vermont Belle
Rock&Roll 55
Yak 55
a couple of Air Hogs - worth the yuks
current fave - the stick
I also have an elephant grave yard of "learning curve" planes
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:53 PM
  #140  
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Can some of you look at your MUS when you get a chance and see if yours has a notch pre cut for adding the control horns for the flap option. No big deal, but I'm just curious because mine is notched on one side only.

I cant program the flaps to work correctly because I have a 6 channel Radio and have to use a Y harness to connect the two flap servos together. Doing this makes one flap go down and the other go up. Hobby Lobby has a servo reverser you can hook to one servo connected in the Y harness, but its $27.00 and they are out of stock. The plane was designed for the control rods to hook to the servos toward the outside of the wing. I think I'm going to hook one to the outside, and the other one to the inside, and that will make both flaps travel in the same direction.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:03 PM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by Heightisgood View Post
With respect to the pull to the right - I had a buddy hold the tail of the plane until I got it up to speed and she took off like a champ.
WOW! He must be able to run pretty fast!

Seems a lot of folks had trouble with the L/G on the M/F. Ive flown mine for almost a year now and never had a problem. The Carbon gear was starting to get soft lately though. I used thin CA to coat the gear and they are really stiff again now.

I don't see a problem with the way the MUS gear mounts, except maybe a third bolt should have been used, offset, but between the other two.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:12 PM
  #142  
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Interesting question about flap programming with the Optic 6. Can you reverse the position of the pushrod on the servo arm without much modification to one flap?

Whereas flaps and individual ailerons can be programmed with the Eclipse, one can't program them to be used as flapperon and flaps simultaneously and choose which to use by flipping a switch as on Futabas or JR TXs.

One has to chose one or the other. A call to Hitec by a friend who also has a Stick yielded the same results. He was told to choose using the flaps and ailerons as flaperons or as individual flaps and ailerons, but not both. He is still looking for a way to fool his radio into doing it, though.
 
Old 01-04-2006, 11:24 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by qban_flyer View Post
CTD,

The landing gear coming off is an inherent characteristic of all sticks regardless of size and power method.

Regarding the pulling tendency. My Das Bipe Stick used to do the same. At first I though it was the tail wheel all along. It was not, the main gear was not aligned properly (it has to be right on the money). Depending on how the main gear was adjusted it would pull one way or the other.

On grass the tendency dissapeared I guess because of the added drag the grass presented the model with. I ended up spending a fair amount of time until it only pulls very slightly to the left on paved surfaces.
Qban Flyer & Heightisgood,

Thank you for the heads up on the Sticks gear. I think i have it set up pretty good now. I had 4 flights yesterday off of our grass field, I also did a bunch of touch in go's in the grass and the gear is solid.

CTD
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:40 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by qban_flyer View Post
Interesting question about flap programming with the Optic 6. Can you reverse the position of the pushrod on the servo arm without much modification to one flap?
It will just be a matter of mounting the control horn about a 1 1/2" over from where is should be, and putting the control rod on the other side of the servo arm.

I'm going to use the Crow program. It will lower the flaps and raise the ailerons and let me mix in some elevator if needed to maintain level flight, all with the flip of a switch.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:49 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Rugar View Post
It will just be a matter of mounting the control horn about a 1 1/2" over from where is should be, and putting the control rod on the other side of the servo arm.

I'm going to use the Crow program. It will lower the flaps and raise the ailerons and let me mix in some elevator if needed to maintain level flight, all with the flip of a switch.
Could you just turn one of the servos around in it's mount?

CTD
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:02 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by crast test dummie View Post
Could you just turn one of the servos around in it's mount?

CTD
LOL, same thing that I thought. I actually tried. The servo still rotates the same direction no matter which way its facing. To rotate in the opposite direction, you would have to turn it upside down.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:12 AM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by Rugar View Post
LOL, same thing that I thought. I actually tried. The servo still rotates the same direction no matter which way its facing. To rotate in the opposite direction, you would have to turn it upside down.
i beg to differ.:o if you turn the servo without moving the control arm, it will move in the opposite direction.
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:13 AM
  #148  
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wait, correction. i thought you meant that it wouldn't push the pushrod in the opposite direction. my bad!
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:21 AM
  #149  
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LOL, Oh well!

CTD
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Old 01-05-2006, 12:22 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by losi24 View Post
i beg to differ.:o if you turn the servo without moving the control arm, it will move in the opposite direction.
Your right, but you don't have to turn the servo around. Just put the control rod on the other side of the servo arm. Same thing, which puts the control arm on the other side of the servo and it now no longer lines up with the control horn. I have to move the control horn over to keep things aligned and moving the same direction as the other flap.
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