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Sr Telemaster E-Conversion

Old 01-22-2011, 09:37 PM
  #26  
BEAR-AvHistory
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I got mine at home depot. Looks to be standard issue wide tape. I twist the battery then lift it up. Its a good plan to in addition to its own glue to CA the hook piece to the battery tray
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Old 01-22-2011, 10:35 PM
  #27  
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You only need small amounts of Velcro. That is just to keep the battery from moving forward or back. The seat belt strap around the battery is what secures it to the tray.

On small planes I use a touch more Velcro since no seat belt is used.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
I got mine at home depot. Looks to be standard issue wide tape. I twist the battery then lift it up. Its a good plan to in addition to its own glue to CA the hook piece to the battery tray
Something I've been doing for years, put a thin layer of that yellow carpenter glue (titebond) under where the velcro is going to go. Let the glue dry for 24 hours, then stick the velcro to the area that is coated with yellow glue. You could also use epoxy, but most of the weight of that yellow glue will evaporate, so it is much lighter than epoxy.

It doesn't take much glue, try it on a piece of scrap balsa before putting it into a model.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:23 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
You only need small amounts of Velcro. That is just to keep the battery from moving forward or back. The seat belt strap around the battery is what secures it to the tray.

On small planes I use a touch more Velcro since no seat belt is used.
I don't use a seatbelt on the Telemaster. To use one I would most likely have to take the wing off to change batteries.

Will give the yellow glue a shot, am just finishing up a Toledo Special & have not yet fit the velcro in it. Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-23-2011, 12:45 AM
  #30  
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While I'm goofing around with moving the battery location, I'd thought I'd show you my floats and extended cowl cover.

The extended cowl cover makes the nose look longer, more streamlined and more up-to-date, IMHO. I attached it with dowels in the back and magnets in the front.

The floats are HobbyKing .40 size (36") floats to be used for snow flying. The mounts are from an E-Flite Beaver and are much more rugged than the mounts that came with the floats. I built a reinforced plywood and basswood mounting pad for the rear wires and used the stock front pads for the front wires.

I screwed thin aluminum strips cut from an aluminum yardstick on top of the floats at the reinforced locations and used the aluminum strips to mount the Beaver wires. That way I could get the float "steps" right underneath the CG.

...The Bum

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Old 01-23-2011, 01:13 PM
  #31  
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Your Telemaster looks great! I'll bet that will be a blast on the floats.

Keep in mind that the Telemaster is a very gentle flyer. You need very little velcro to keep the battery in place. You won't be doing snap rolls and outside loops with it

I started off with way too much velcro and was having a hard time getting the battery in and out, so I removed about 75% of it from the battery. That was much easier than removing it from the battery tray.

Hope you can post some video of your plane taking off and landing in the snow.

Cliff
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:12 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
SR. TELEMASTER
SK-5055/580
Turnigy Cherry 15X8
1237watt @ 66amp
MAS 13X8X3
1100watt @ 59amp
MAS 14X8X3
1377watt @ 77amp
5S5000

Motor will take more battery up to 8S & is rated for 1580watts on a 15X9. That being said this one has very rarely seen more then 50% throttle.
I'm in process of installing a Monster Power 46 in an original RCM Trainer. I've been thinking about the motor mount and will have to recess the gas motor mount just as you have done for motor clearance. I am considering building a motor mount backplate instead of the elongnated mounting hardware to the firewall. Because of the distance to mount to the firewall I am concerned about motor torque twisting the standoffs. Have you had any problems?

swimmer
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:42 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by cliffh View Post
Your Telemaster looks great! I'll bet that will be a blast on the floats.

Keep in mind that the Telemaster is a very gentle flyer. You need very little velcro to keep the battery in place. You won't be doing snap rolls and outside loops with it

I started off with way too much velcro and was having a hard time getting the battery in and out, so I removed about 75% of it from the battery. That was much easier than removing it from the battery tray.

Hope you can post some video of your plane taking off and landing in the snow.

Cliff
Thanks for the compliment, Cliff.

I'm installing the battery tray today and notice it slants downward. I figure I can drop the battery all the way to the bottom with just a small piece of velcro on the end of the battery. That will keep it in place.

Also, I'm going to build a "roof" for the battery tray, velcroed in place just to be sure everything stays where put if I get brave and loop the beast.

I'll be sure to get video off the snow. Since we have four feet and more is on the way, I'm guessing I'll have a lot of opportunity to video off snow before I see grass again!

...The Bum
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I'm in process of installing a Monster Power 46 in an original RCM Trainer. I've been thinking about the motor mount and will have to recess the gas motor mount just as you have done for motor clearance. I am considering building a motor mount backplate instead of the elongnated mounting hardware to the firewall. Because of the distance to mount to the firewall I am concerned about motor torque twisting the standoffs. Have you had any problems?

swimmer
My S.T. has 2" of standoffs Swimmer, and it is a solid as a rock. I don't forsee any problems with this setup at all.

...The Bum

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Old 01-23-2011, 03:02 PM
  #35  
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Sounds good Saddlebum. I've looped my Telemaster many times. The plane does beautiful big graceful loops. It also does nice rolls, a little barrel shaped with that high wing and all, but nice. I've also done some inverted flight, but I wouldn't want to try an outside loop with that big wing and all. I do have wing struts installed by the way.

The only real surprise I had was how soon the tail lifts. When you start adding throttle, the tail comes up immediately.....so be ready to add plenty of up elevator to keep the tail down when you taxi around. Once that tail wheel is off the ground, she will turn into any breeze very quickly.

I may have to add that cowl extension. That certainly does improve the look of the plane.

Where did you put your esc? I put mine right on the front of the firewall below the motor mount. Keeps it in the cooling air nicely. Plenty of room for it.

Cliff
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cliffh View Post
Sounds good Saddlebum. I've looped my Telemaster many times. The plane does beautiful big graceful loops. It also does nice rolls, a little barrel shaped with that high wing and all, but nice. I've also done some inverted flight, but I wouldn't want to try an outside loop with that big wing and all. I do have wing struts installed by the way.

The only real surprise I had was how soon the tail lifts. When you start adding throttle, the tail comes up immediately.....so be ready to add plenty of up elevator to keep the tail down when you taxi around. Once that tail wheel is off the ground, she will turn into any breeze very quickly.

I may have to add that cowl extension. That certainly does improve the look of the plane.

Where did you put your esc? I put mine right on the front of the firewall below the motor mount. Keeps it in the cooling air nicely. Plenty of room for it.

Cliff
I'll pay attention to how quickly the tail lifts, Cliff. Thanks for the tip.

I bought a HobbyKing Heli Gyro with Heading Hold (HH) to install between the rudder servo and the Rx. There was an article in MA a couple of months ago that motivated me to try this trick. My field has winds that shift constantly and many times they are directly crosswind. With a flip of the switch, the Gyro ought to be able to hold the ST straight on the runway.

I built my ST as a taildragger, so the gyro should keep me flying on crosswind days.


My ESC is under the motor mount, as is yours. No reason not to put it there as it is reasonably well protected in the event of a crash. I test placed it inside and liked the way it looked but this bird has NO airflow through the cockpit so my choice was either to open up the fuselage, or put it on the firewall. The firewall choice won.

I installed the brace for the battery box this morning out of 1/2" basswood. I plan to have the battery box screwed to the brace so it can be removed if I chose to try to fly two 5,000 mAh's in parallel and need the room. I'll post a pic tonight.


Tell me please, how did you mount your wing?

That's next for me and I like what Bear did with a plywood "tongue & groove" slot up front and bolts in the rear.

I just have no confidence looping a 10 pound airplane with rubber bands holding the wings on!

...The Bum
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:58 PM
  #37  
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The gyro idea sounds interesting. I'll be interested in how well it works.

My wing is held on by rubber bands. I have over 100 flights and no problems with that system yet. You don't see them when the plane is in the air. I did consider the dowel and bolt mounting, but simplicity won out.

My wing struts are held onto the hard points in the wing using small brass hinges. After installing the wing on the plane, I swing the lower part of the strut to the small pins that were supplied with the kit and use a pin through the hole to secure them.

http://search2.hobby-lobby.com/psear...6763&x=16&y=10

If you look at the parts, you can pretty much figure out how they work. You may have them with your kit.

Maybe someday I'll convert to dowels and bolts.

Cliff
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:09 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
............... Because of the distance to mount to the firewall I am concerned about motor torque twisting the standoffs. Have you had any problems?

swimmer
No, I have just over 2" on the mount, been in use for over a year.
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
No, I have just over 2" on the mount, been in use for over a year.
Thanks, you all. Sorry to have hijacked your thread. My RCM Trainer looks a lot like your Telemasters.

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Old 01-23-2011, 09:04 PM
  #40  
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No problem.

To get an idea how tuff these mounts are they pulled the firewall out when the original version went in hard due to a brain fart on my part. The wing was not damaged at all & the wrecked simulated L-4 was rebuilt as the IJA trainer.

The original motor, mounts, wings, struts & all electronics were used in the rebuild.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:17 AM
  #41  
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Default New Battery Box

Here's my new battery box, or maybe I should call it the battery coffin.

First I built basswood crossmounts to screw the box to...



The box has soft velcro at the back, not the bottom, but the back. It has a trap door with a Blenderm hinge and a Velcro wrap-around to hold it closed.


Finished. Now I can "drop" the battery in from the hatch and it will stay in place at any flight attitude, but I can get at it if needed, with the wing off.


...The Bum
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:15 AM
  #42  
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Looks great man. I have done that for a plane before - it worked well.

Since the batteries are not super taxed the but of cooling blocking is not a huge deal either. Assure it is well secured too!

Mike
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:15 PM
  #43  
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Is everybody running the tailwheel assembly provided with the ARF?

Mine looks real cheesy for a ten pound airplane.


...The Bum
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:57 PM
  #44  
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Factory stock on the tail wheel; different front wheels on stock wire.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:07 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
Factory stock on the tail wheel; different front wheels on stock wire.
I have 1/4 Scale Cub wheels on the front so if the stock wire is OK, I'll just put a bigger wheel on the back.

...The Bum
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:54 PM
  #46  
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Here are another pair of pics. (My name is Bum and I'm a picture junkie ).

I had to re-route the wing servo wires to get them out of the way when the wings are pulled together. I did it by running the servo wires through the circular holes in the ribs, then notching the innermost rib and adding a block so the new Monocoat would have something to adhere to.

It looks like this..




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Old 01-25-2011, 09:31 PM
  #47  
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I cheated on that because I am using a false rib to hold the wing on. Just took a dremal sanding drum & cut a 1/2 circle out of the stock rib before I glued the false rib on. Not as neat but it its good enough for govermnet work.

We had some good weather this morning (snow projected tonight) so I had the Sr. Telemaster in the air for the first time since early December. It really does fly nice.
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:16 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
I cheated on that because I am using a false rib to hold the wing on. Just took a dremal sanding drum & cut a 1/2 circle out of the stock rib before I glued the false rib on. Not as neat but it its good enough for govermnet work.

We had some good weather this morning (snow projected tonight) so I had the Sr. Telemaster in the air for the first time since early December. It really does fly nice.

I'm building a false rib also. I'll have some pics in a couple of days. I'm learning a LOT from you(all).

...The Bum
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:10 PM
  #49  
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Default Aluminum Airfoil Struts

I added aluminum airfoil shaped struts to the ST this week.




Because the aluminum was weak, I added a full length carbon fiber rod (.157 OD x .098 ID) inside and a 3/16" dowel to firmly hold it on place. A custom cut 3" 4-40 rod was screwed into each end of the carbon fiber rod. This places 100% of the push/pull strain on the carbon fiber.





On the wing end, I used a Sullivan clevis and a steel control horn. This allows me to easily attach and detach it from the wing.





On the fuselage end, I mounted a DuBro strut brace threaded for a 4-40 rod. Permanently mounted, this allows me to detach the strut at the wing then rotate it back flush with the fuselage for transportation.




I like the fact that it looks "more scale", is stronger than stock and facilitates easier transportation.


...The Bum

Last edited by Saddlebum; 02-11-2011 at 09:40 PM. Reason: More detail
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:07 PM
  #50  
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I am in the middle of adding struts on my ST also and you you got me jazzed about your design. I like the aluminum and carbon rod combination and would like to know where you got the foil shaped spar. Great design on the connectors too!

let me know....
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