Scale E-Powered Aircraft Discuss electric powered scale models here.

Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair

Old 05-14-2007, 02:23 AM
  #51  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Originally Posted by onlyemokid View Post
wow, I like that

Thanks.

Here's more progress on the sheeting of the fuse.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Forward deck 1.JPG
Views:	751
Size:	70.7 KB
ID:	31217   Click image for larger version

Name:	Forward Deck 2.JPG
Views:	891
Size:	72.5 KB
ID:	31218   Click image for larger version

Name:	Cockpit AreaJPG.jpg
Views:	886
Size:	72.0 KB
ID:	31219  
rea59 is offline  
Old 05-27-2007, 06:54 PM
  #52  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default Canopy Cylinder Mounted

The cylinders have all arrived from Robarts. Although it took a long time I still want to thank Robarts for getting these cylinders made for me.

Putting the Canopy Cylinder in the plane required a lot of extra framing. I also had to decide how best to mount the cylinder to the canopy. This was made more difficult due to the fact that the canopy itself will not be mounted for a long time. I decided on using an aluminum tube through the fuse. This makes the plane from the outside look similar to the original.

I also made the cylinder mount out of aluminum and made it a floating style. (Wouldn't want the canopy to bind up.)

The stroke on the cylinder is 2.5 inches. This should allow for a good view of the detailed cockpit and also allow a pilot to fit in and out.

All bolts and nuts use Locktite and will then be covered over with Epoxy. (Once the sheeting is on this area will never be accessible).

Here's the pic'ssorry about some being fuzzy my camera doesn't do close-ups very well) 5/29/07 -- I found the Macro setting for my camera but it's too late for these pic's.

1. New Framework
2. Floating Mount
3. 4-40 Blind Nuts and Epoxy
4. Canopy Rod to Rod end mount
5. Threaded ends
6. A view of where the canopy will mount.
7. Top view
8. Side view
9. Cylinder retracted
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	NEW FRAMING.jpg
Views:	956
Size:	175.1 KB
ID:	32142   Click image for larger version

Name:	FLOATING MOUNT.jpg
Views:	1026
Size:	76.6 KB
ID:	32143   Click image for larger version

Name:	BLIND NUTS AND EPOXY.jpg
Views:	859
Size:	76.1 KB
ID:	32144   Click image for larger version

Name:	CANOPY TO ROD END.jpg
Views:	799
Size:	91.9 KB
ID:	32145   Click image for larger version

Name:	THREADED ENDS.jpg
Views:	775
Size:	98.1 KB
ID:	32146  

Click image for larger version

Name:	CANOPY MOUNTING POINT.jpg
Views:	750
Size:	96.9 KB
ID:	32147   Click image for larger version

Name:	TOP VIEW.jpg
Views:	746
Size:	127.0 KB
ID:	32148   Click image for larger version

Name:	SIDE VIEW.jpg
Views:	783
Size:	145.0 KB
ID:	32149   Click image for larger version

Name:	RETRACTED.jpg
Views:	910
Size:	156.3 KB
ID:	32150  

Last edited by rea59; 05-29-2007 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Additional info
rea59 is offline  
Old 05-29-2007, 03:50 PM
  #53  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default A little more progress on sheeting the fuse Top.

A little more progress on sheeting the fuse. The first couple of pics show the actuator for the Canopy as compared to a pic of the original F4.

The top has a block added which has to be shaped for the Turtle back (some call it the Turtle Deck some the Razor Back I prefer the Turtle Back as thatís what we called it in the F4 Phantom II community.

The block for the Turtle Back is also the part of the structure for the vertical fin (rudder fin) and as such needs to be oriented correctly. The top of the frame needed to be sanded flat for this block. I found using a long sanding bar to be very helpful.

Looking at the front of the fuse (previous post) youíll note that this is a circle cut in half down the length of the plane. With the top half firmly on the building table (no warps or twists, it lays flat real nicely) I put my inclinometer on the bench and zeroed it. Then I was able to check the top of the Turtle Back frame and also the vertical fin (both side and trailing edge).

I know this is a slow build guys and maybe I can keep the posts steady for a while. Hope you are all enjoying this and maybe learning something along the way. Let me know if youíd like more detail (or even, less). I did stand-up teaching for seven years and Iíd hate to bore you or make this a hard read.

Enough of that hereís the picís:

1. Canopy Actuator
2. Comparison Pic
3. Turtle Back
4. Turtle Back/Rudder Fin
5. 24" Sanding Bar
6. Bench Zero/Incinometer
7. Turtle Back Frame Zero
8. Rudder Fin Side 90 Degrees to Turtle Back
9. Rudder Fin Trailing Edge 90 Degrees to Bench
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Canopy Actuator.jpg
Views:	756
Size:	133.9 KB
ID:	32353   Click image for larger version

Name:	Comparison.jpg
Views:	935
Size:	73.1 KB
ID:	32354   Click image for larger version

Name:	Turtle Back Before Shaping.jpg
Views:	948
Size:	118.2 KB
ID:	32355   Click image for larger version

Name:	Turtle Deck-Rudder Fin.jpg
Views:	870
Size:	136.3 KB
ID:	32356   Click image for larger version

Name:	24 Inch Sanding Bar.jpg
Views:	842
Size:	134.9 KB
ID:	32357  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Bench Zero.jpg
Views:	951
Size:	68.5 KB
ID:	32358   Click image for larger version

Name:	Turtle Back Zero.jpg
Views:	932
Size:	57.7 KB
ID:	32359   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rudder Fin Side.jpg
Views:	932
Size:	80.8 KB
ID:	32360   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rudder Fin Back .jpg
Views:	956
Size:	95.2 KB
ID:	32361  
rea59 is offline  
Old 05-30-2007, 07:59 PM
  #54  
19thsqn
Member
 
19thsqn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 121
Default

keep up good work! i keep my eye on this thread all the time..
there is not too much big scale electric warbirds.
i've been watching document from F4U. i think its marvelous bird!
smart design. and very good looking plane landing with flaps down!!!
lots of good looking moving scale details and so on.. yeah i like it!!!
19thsqn is offline  
Old 05-31-2007, 12:30 AM
  #55  
firemanbill
Community Moderator
 
firemanbill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sevierville, Tennessee
Posts: 20,753
Default

It's really starting to look nice Ray! Can't wait to see her done!
firemanbill is offline  
Old 07-08-2007, 11:14 PM
  #56  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default More Progress

I've made a little more progress. The turtle back is now glued in a shaped. Next the fuse has to sit upside down to build the other half. This in itself presented a challenge. I could just mock something up for the build, but then when you think about it I'll also need something to keep it on its back while I put the batteries in and wing on. So thats when I decided to build a stand for it. Now that I can have it stable upside down I can now start adding control rods. Post more later.

BTW; with the stand I was able to use it to weigh the fuse. Stand = 8lb 5.8oz and the Upper fuse is 2lb 7oz (with air tank and canopy cylinder)

Pics;

1. Shaped Turtle Back
2. Stand
3. Stand (Yes thats a full size truck battery)
The stand had to be tall to accommodate the rudder. It looks high but the rudder will only have a couple inches clearance.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Shaped TB.jpg
Views:	647
Size:	62.0 KB
ID:	35098   Click image for larger version

Name:	Stand 1.jpg
Views:	752
Size:	124.7 KB
ID:	35099   Click image for larger version

Name:	Stand 2.jpg
Views:	977
Size:	142.4 KB
ID:	35100  
rea59 is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 12:34 AM
  #57  
smokejohnson
Super Contributor
 
smokejohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 5,687
Default

Nice job Ray. Just want to say thanks for sharing and subscribe.
smokejohnson is offline  
Old 07-09-2007, 03:16 AM
  #58  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Thanks Smoke! Still a long ways to go yet.
rea59 is offline  
Old 07-10-2007, 10:37 PM
  #59  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

With the stand made and the fuse flipped the first step in building the bottom is to install servos and control rods. This is a large plane with large control surfaces, not withstanding the expense of the plane I would not want anyone to get hurt or property damage to occur due to a failure of a control rod or a stripped gear in a servo so I will be using 4-40 rods and high torque metal gear servos.

#1. If your like me inserting the brass grommet into the rubber grommet of a servo can cause pain to the fingers and a general sense of frustration to your normally calm state of mind.
Take a wooden dowel about the size of a pencil and sharpen it with a pencil sharpener. Used this to insert the brass into the rubber. Your state of mind will appreciate it's use. Note: do not use a real pencil as the lead will break. (don't ask how I know this).

#2 & 3 Rudder Servo: JR DS8711 digital, Metal Gear, Alum. Heat sink.
Height 1.5"
Width .83"
Length 1.59"
Weight 2.36 oz
Torque 403 oz/in @ 6V (yes I will run at 6V with a JR 2700mah Rx battery.
Speed 60 degrees in .15 sec

#4. Close up of 4-40 ball link for servo end.
#5. Close up of Solder connector for Rudder end. This area will have no access after model is completed. (after cutting to length I roughed up the rod by running a 3mm die over it.) Still need to get some silver solder to attach it.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Inserting Brass.jpg
Views:	662
Size:	113.1 KB
ID:	35260   Click image for larger version

Name:	Installing servos.jpg
Views:	745
Size:	135.0 KB
ID:	35261   Click image for larger version

Name:	DS8711.jpg
Views:	777
Size:	93.3 KB
ID:	35262   Click image for larger version

Name:	4-40 Ball Link.jpg
Views:	720
Size:	100.4 KB
ID:	35263   Click image for larger version

Name:	Solder Connector.jpg
Views:	899
Size:	78.1 KB
ID:	35264  

rea59 is offline  
Old 07-10-2007, 11:14 PM
  #60  
Tinman
The Hot dog man
 
Tinman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Western Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,584
Default

Wow your one heck of a builder Ray! Looks great! Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!
Tinman is offline  
Old 07-17-2007, 05:55 PM
  #61  
Mustang11
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Belvidere, Illinois
Posts: 7
Default

Ray,
An observation here......... shouldn't the brass servo grommets go in from the bottom? I thought they were there to limit the rubber mounting pad crush as the screws are tightened, and without the collar/lip on the bottom they'll simply dig into the plywood/balsa base. That's been my experience anyway......... awesome build regardless!!
Mustang11 is offline  
Old 07-22-2007, 02:00 PM
  #62  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Originally Posted by Mustang11 View Post
Ray,
An observation here......... shouldn't the brass servo grommets go in from the bottom? I thought they were there to limit the rubber mounting pad crush as the screws are tightened, and without the collar/lip on the bottom they'll simply dig into the plywood/balsa base. That's been my experience anyway......... awesome build regardless!!

Very interesting observation. :<

I have worked with many different isolation mounts and the flange on the grommet always goes toward the screw or bolt head. This is to prevent the screw or bolt from digging into the rubber and there by allowing the rubber to slip off the brass grommet and screw. Note that the opposite end has a large surface which prevents it from moving in that direction. The point you raise is a valid one with regard to digging into the soft wood. If I flipped the brass grommet around I would need a washer against the screw head to hold the rubber. Then again a washer could be put against the wood side to prevent the digging.

(Sorry it took me so long to answer your post, I took the kids on vacation to my Dad's farm in Missouri)

Do any others out there have a method they use that's different??? And what is your all's experience with the servos coming loose???



On a side note: While I was in Missouri I found hanging from the ceiling in a storage room a .40 size P40 Warhawk built in 1972. I have brought it home and will start another thread on making it flyable.
rea59 is offline  
Old 07-22-2007, 03:05 PM
  #63  
smokejohnson
Super Contributor
 
smokejohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 5,687
Default

I have mine with the flange up. What Mustang11 is saying does make since but I have not had any issues going flange up. If I ever have that problem though now I have some ideas to fix it. That is if I can remember .

Will you keep the Warhawk a slimer or convert it to electric? Sweet find .
smokejohnson is offline  
Old 07-22-2007, 03:13 PM
  #64  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Originally Posted by smokejohnson View Post
Will you keep the Warhawk a slimer or convert it to electric? Sweet find .

I don't know yet. Let me get some detailed pic's and post a thread then you guys can give me some ideals. (I know all the electronics have to be replaced)
rea59 is offline  
Old 08-13-2007, 11:17 PM
  #65  
Mustang11
New Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Belvidere, Illinois
Posts: 7
Default

Ray,
Funny you should mention the washer on top trick, I just used that on a SebArt Katana with microservos as the brass inserts were too long to allow any crush of the rubber pads. That's one of the multitude of things I love about this hobby; there are so many ways to do things and all of them work equally well! No worries on the reply time, my daughter is 5 and I understand about busy. Larry
Mustang11 is offline  
Old 09-05-2007, 06:35 AM
  #66  
xuzme720
c'mere Monkey
 
xuzme720's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Just North of Houston.Heard of Dayton? I didn't think so...
Posts: 2,906
Default

somehow have missed this one until now! fantastic build, Ray!
xuzme720 is offline  
Old 09-05-2007, 10:20 PM
  #67  
haze_b
Member
 
haze_b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 110
Default

Aloha,

I'm a HUGE fan of electric flight, but just curious, why did you go for electric on such a big plane? ??

Wouldn't a gas/ignition setup be more economical?
haze_b is offline  
Old 09-05-2007, 11:11 PM
  #68  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Originally Posted by haze_b View Post
Aloha,

I'm a HUGE fan of electric flight, but just curious, why did you go for electric on such a big plane? ??

Wouldn't a gas/ignition setup be more economical?

As you say gas would be more economical but this build wasn't about saving money. I'm actually going a little overboard on this one money wise. When I was younger I had a nitro plane and then while in Japan I had nitro cars and trucks. I got back into RC a couple years ago with the electrics and haven't looked back since. They are much cleaner and less hassle to deal with. There weren't many big electric planes out there so this has been about the challenge of making a big heavy old war bird fly with electric power.
rea59 is offline  
Old 09-06-2007, 03:54 AM
  #69  
Bundy
Member
 
Bundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Bundaberg, Queensland Australia
Posts: 45
Default

Hi Ray

Just came across this thread and you are doing a great job - always good to see large scale electrics.

I've built an electric version of the Brian Taylor Corsair which is a little smaller than yours at about 82" span. I still haven't maidened her yet as I'm having trouble getting her to balance. When people said to build the Corsair's tail light I thought I would be right with a 6" speaker for sound, working cowl flaps and a 10S lipo up front but I was wrong. I did build a scale tail wheel, working arrestor hook and working canopy but nothing too heavy in the tail I thought.

The EVO20 packs I planned to use are 300mm long but I just can't get enough weight far enough forward. I am already at 20 lb and I don't want to add nearly another 2 lb of dead weight in the front.

I've just received some of UnitedHobbies' 6S lipos which are a more compact shape so I hope these will balance her without adding lead. Don't know much about them but I guess I'll learn having used only EVO for the last few years.

I don't know about the Top Flite Corsair but the Brian Taylor one needs the tail built light! I just wish I'd taken the advice more seriously at the start.

For a bit of inspiration have you seen this folding wing on YouTube? http://youtube.com/watch?v=rBI1oA1Gjfc

Good building and I'll be sure to check back in often.

Richard
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	pappy 004.jpg
Views:	964
Size:	48.2 KB
ID:	40180   Click image for larger version

Name:	corsair progress 006.jpg
Views:	1072
Size:	55.9 KB
ID:	40181   Click image for larger version

Name:	Picture 008.jpg
Views:	1395
Size:	68.5 KB
ID:	40182  
Bundy is offline  
Old 09-06-2007, 04:02 AM
  #70  
firemanbill
Community Moderator
 
firemanbill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sevierville, Tennessee
Posts: 20,753
Default

Wow Richard that is really awesome!

Ray that should fire you up a bit huh?!
firemanbill is offline  
Old 09-06-2007, 04:26 AM
  #71  
smokejohnson
Super Contributor
 
smokejohnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 5,687
Default

Wow Richard! Nice plane. Will you have machine gun sounds along with motor noise?
smokejohnson is offline  
Old 09-06-2007, 07:02 AM
  #72  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Originally Posted by Bundy View Post
Hi Ray

Just came across this thread and you are doing a great job - always good to see large scale electrics.

I've built an electric version of the Brian Taylor Corsair which is a little smaller than yours at about 82" span. I still haven't maidened her yet as I'm having trouble getting her to balance. When people said to build the Corsair's tail light I thought I would be right with a 6" speaker for sound, working cowl flaps and a 10S lipo up front but I was wrong. I did build a scale tail wheel, working arrestor hook and working canopy but nothing too heavy in the tail I thought.

The EVO20 packs I planned to use are 300mm long but I just can't get enough weight far enough forward. I am already at 20 lb and I don't want to add nearly another 2 lb of dead weight in the front.

I've just received some of UnitedHobbies' 6S lipos which are a more compact shape so I hope these will balance her without adding lead. Don't know much about them but I guess I'll learn having used only EVO for the last few years.

I don't know about the Top Flite Corsair but the Brian Taylor one needs the tail built light! I just wish I'd taken the advice more seriously at the start.

For a bit of inspiration have you seen this folding wing on YouTube? http://youtube.com/watch?v=rBI1oA1Gjfc

Good building and I'll be sure to check back in often.

Richard
Great looking bird you've got there. Good luck on the maiden. The Top Flite even with the gas motors require 3lbs of lead in the nose.

Originally Posted by firemanbill View Post
Wow Richard that is really awesome!

Ray that should fire you up a bit huh?!

Thanks, I guess I do need to get back to it.
rea59 is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 05:01 AM
  #73  
Pig
Member
 
Pig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 191
Default

Ray, I know this is a long way off still, but what unit will your Corsair be a part of? May I suggest one of the most well known Navy Corsair pilots, Greg Boyington. Granted, he was a drunk and in later life accused of being a money grubber and exaggerator, but he was a helluva pilot! He was also posthumously awarded the Medal of Honor after he was thought dead. But, enough of history.

Fantastic work on this build!! That motor his huge!!! This is going to be awesome when done!! Please have lots of video footage of this in flight!

For reference, he's a good pic of Boyington's LuluBelle.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Boyington 86 corsairF4u-1a.JPG
Views:	394
Size:	27.0 KB
ID:	40472  
Pig is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 06:15 AM
  #74  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default

Originally Posted by Pig View Post
Ray, I know this is a long way off still, but what unit will your Corsair be a part of? May I suggest one of the most well known Navy Corsair pilots, Greg Boyington. Granted, he was a drunk and in later life accused of being a money grubber and exaggerator, but he was a helluva pilot! He was also posthumously awarded the Medal of Honor after he was thought dead. But, enough of history.

Fantastic work on this build!! That motor his huge!!! This is going to be awesome when done!! Please have lots of video footage of this in flight!

For reference, he's a good pic of Boyington's LuluBelle.
Boyington would be a popular one and I have thought about it. Right now this is where I'm leaning. (I spent 4 years with the red devils)
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	3_16.jpg
Views:	381
Size:	59.6 KB
ID:	40474  
rea59 is offline  
Old 09-19-2007, 11:58 PM
  #75  
rea59
BEEP..Bleep..BEEP
Thread Starter
 
rea59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Midway Kentucky
Posts: 1,228
Default Still working on it.

Just an update to let everyone know that I'm still working on this. I've spent a lot of time flying and working(for pay) that I haven't been able to spend on this project.

I have the main support for the wing saddle in and this creates the box area that the batteries Will go in. This in itself slows me down due to this plane originally is a gasser and I'm converting it as I go to electric. So i spend and inordinate amount of time just thinking and making plans for my next step in order to not miss anything in the conversion. (I don't want to be on step 435 and find out I should have done something different on step 173)

Right now I'm looking at the battery sizes and area available and options for mounting and also for cooling.

I'm about 2 steps away from having the nose in it's full "round" configuration. I'll post more pic's as get a little further.

Thanks for keeping up with me.
rea59 is offline  

Quick Reply: Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.14769 seconds with 45 queries