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Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair

Old 09-21-2007, 06:44 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Mustang11 View Post
Ray,
An observation here......... shouldn't the brass servo grommets go in from the bottom? I thought they were there to limit the rubber mounting pad crush as the screws are tightened, and without the collar/lip on the bottom they'll simply dig into the plywood/balsa base. That's been my experience anyway......... awesome build regardless!!
Originally Posted by Mustang11 View Post
Ray,
Funny you should mention the washer on top trick, I just used that on a SebArt Katana with microservos as the brass inserts were too long to allow any crush of the rubber pads. That's one of the multitude of things I love about this hobby; there are so many ways to do things and all of them work equally well! No worries on the reply time, my daughter is 5 and I understand about busy. Larry

We all learn new things every day. I just read this today from Great Planes Model Mfg.

Proper Servo Mounting:
The proper way to mount a servo is as follows:
  1. Insert a rubber grommet into each of the four servo holes.
  2. Insert a metal eyelet from the bottom side of the rubber grommet. This way the wide portion of the eyelet will be in contact with the servo tray when mounted.
  3. Test fit the servo in the tray, and enlarge the openings so the servo will not touch the tray. The rubber grommets will isolate the servo from the hard vibration of the airplane's structure.
  4. Position the servo, then mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill pilot holes with a 1/16" bit at each mark.
  5. Use the servo screws supplied with your radio to mount the servo(s) in the servo tray. Tighten the screws until they just touch the top of the metal eyelet
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:07 AM
  #77  
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Ray, haven't seen any updates. What's the latest on this? Don't keep us in suspense.
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Old 12-03-2007, 01:32 PM
  #78  
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yeah, still looking...
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Old 12-03-2007, 11:13 PM
  #79  
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I'd like to see how this is going too.....
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Old 12-04-2007, 02:39 AM
  #80  
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Watts up Ray??
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Old 12-04-2007, 10:56 AM
  #81  
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Very interesting buildthread Ray. Keep us informed on any progress.
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Old 12-04-2007, 11:50 PM
  #82  
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Sorry guys, I haven't done much to it in the last few months. (still on the bench) My son and I have built about 20 Foamys and have been flying with all our spare time. (I have two 3D bipe's and two 3D planes I'm trying to finish up this week)

I'm a little stuck on the battery box... well not really "stuck" per'se. I've been researching sizes and making plans on securing the batteries. Also as the batteries will be in the plane with the wing on I'm going to have to switch them on externally. (still looking for a 4 pole ST switch or two DPST switches that are small yet can handle 65 Amps continuous and 100 amps peak). The hatch and switch box (main/RX switches and RX charge jack also air fill) will be an integral part of the bottom nose of the plane and there-by bottom of the battery box.

I plan on sliding the batteries in as two "packs" each of which will contain 4 5S batteries. (Two in series mounted on a board end to end with the other two mounted beside them on the same board and paralleled with the first.) So each pack will be made up of 5S batteries for a 10S2P configuration. (One board/pack for each motor). Then there is the cooling air for this area which I'm still working on the plans for.

I'm sure in the next few weeks I'll be moving forward with the construction of this.
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Old 12-05-2007, 04:45 AM
  #83  
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Love this thread!

BTW - seems to me i read somewhere that for a high amp switch a guy used DEANS ULTRA connectors. I think it was a setup where he interrupted a power lead with a Female Deans Ultra and then as a "switch" he soldered a battery bar across a male Deans Ultra which could then be plugged into the female completing the circuit. This set up was placed in the bottom of the cowl and a plug was made for static display - but for flying the male was inserted into the female - completing - the circuit and acting as a very positive on/off "switch" and when removed no power!

Just a thought.

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Old 12-05-2007, 04:51 AM
  #84  
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Take your time Ray! No need to rush it...

but I can't wait to see it done so hurry up!:p

That's a good idea for power and safety HB.
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Old 12-05-2007, 11:06 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by hilbilly View Post
Love this thread!

BTW - seems to me i read somewhere that for a high amp switch a guy used DEANS ULTRA connectors. I think it was a setup where he interrupted a power lead with a Female Deans Ultra and then as a "switch" he soldered a battery bar across a male Deans Ultra which could then be plugged into the female completing the circuit. This set up was placed in the bottom of the cowl and a plug was made for static display - but for flying the male was inserted into the female - completing - the circuit and acting as a very positive on/off "switch" and when removed no power!

Just a thought.

Hillbille

Great Idea!! Thanks...I didn't think of that.:o
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Old 12-05-2007, 11:09 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by firemanbill View Post
Take your time Ray! No need to rush it...

but I can't wait to see it done so hurry up!:p

That's a good idea for power and safety HB.
Patience, Patience oh hurried one. A work of art is easy but a masterpiece takes time.
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Old 12-06-2007, 01:38 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by rea59 View Post
Patience, Patience oh hurried one. A work of art is easy but a masterpiece takes time.
So what's taking you so long then...:p
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:40 AM
  #88  
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Hey Ray how's it coming along?
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:47 AM
  #89  
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Still sitting as I left it last

Been too busy to even get to it. I have built a half dozen new Foamys for when the weather clears.

It's not going anywhere, still on the bench awaiting my return to it. I've a lot invested into it and have worked to improve my skills before completing it and getting tempted to fly it.
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:50 AM
  #90  
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Well we are patiently waiting. Can't wait to see this beauty done!
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:44 PM
  #91  
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As the plans for some of the modifications have started to coalesce in my mind I started to itch....wanting to get some progress on this.....OK well theres that and I would really like to have some clear space on my bench.

So guess what? I actually started mixing glue and putting more of this together. I even started making some of the "mod" pieces for the electrical hatch. The bottom of the fuse is now starting to take shape (skeleton).

I'll post more pic's when there's a little more progress....oh and when I get the batteries charged for the camera.:o
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:07 AM
  #92  
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Great! I was beginning to think you had given up!

Looking forward to seeing more!
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:50 PM
  #93  
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Here's some progress.

I needed to modify the front nose bottom for a hatch. This will allow me access to turning the batteries on and filling the air tank. I used neodymium rare earth magnets to hold the hatch closed.

1. Fuse Bottom Bones
2. Tail Gear Section (will get cut out after I sheet it)
3. Wing joiner section
4/5/6. Original Front Bottom Nose Section
7. Modifying Front Nose Section
8/9/10. New Hatch Section
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:56 PM
  #94  
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Heres a close-up of the latch for the utility door. I used 2 neodymium rare earth magnets 3/8" x 1/8" 4lbs pull each on the door side and some 4-40 Bind nuts for the frame side. It works great.

More to show....Just need to take more pic's.

1. Close-up of Mag Latch
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Old 04-20-2008, 12:17 PM
  #95  
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She wants to fly!..............I can feel it....................just sitting there.....................all alone on a bench with blue Sky's outside the window.



Makes my fingers itch for the controls.






Wait a minute..........Hold on...........I'm not yet good enough to fly this one. .............But she's an airplane, with wings and controls.......................no, no must resist.




Probably a good thing shes taking so long to build.
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Old 04-21-2008, 11:43 PM
  #96  
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More Pic's....It was hard though to work on this today...(I've been working on getting my new Telemaster Electro ready)

This plane needs two servos and air control valves, one for the Canopy and one for the gear. This presented a problem due to the need for 8 5S batteries, I'm just running out of room. So in the first two pic's you'll see that I added a second layer to the Servo shelf. In effect adding a whole second shelf. This allows me room for the valves / receiver and receiver battery. Also remember that this plane was designed for an IC motor and gas tank not batteries.

The second set of pic's show the new hatch area and utility shelf.

1. Servo shelf - original
2. New servo shelf addition.
3. Hatch area before.
4. Hatch area with new Utility shelf.
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:18 AM
  #97  
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Looks really good! That's the nice thing about these builds along with the size of the plane is that you get to make mods fairly easily as you go along. Isn't it weird ho when you start a project like this you open the box and think "this thing is waaaay too big for MY flying!" and then later as the build progresses you begin to worry that there just isn't enough room for all the gear you want!! LOL!! But also it's the little things thought out and well done now that will make this plane fly well later. Take your time and enjoy the build - we certainly are through the updates and pictures.


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Old 05-15-2008, 06:29 PM
  #98  
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This one wasn't so big LOL A Cox Minni AUW 4 oz.
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:44 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Alpea42 View Post
This one wasn't so big LOL A Cox Minni AUW 4 oz.

LOL...I think my motor is bigger than that


I have more progress guys, and more pic's but they won't make much sense till I do a little more. Once I have those pic's then I'll be able to post them showing more progress/features.

If that makes any sense
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Old 05-21-2008, 11:22 PM
  #100  
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WOW! Absolutely amazing!

What's the expected AUW?

SUBSCRIBED!
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