Aerial Photography Discuss all aerial photography topics as they relate to rc aircraft

Beginner to AP with a Slow Stick

Old 08-14-2008, 10:27 AM
  #26  
jakc
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Ok - going to get a shopping list together soon - still a few more Qs.

Being a remote sensing analyst, I want to do this properly. I expect a bit of trial and error to begin with, but in the long term, I want to be able to get decent aerial (straight down) photography which could also be used to accompany some of my project work. Therefore keeping this in mind, I want to build something that will get me some quality pictures.

I have seen various other ideas on obtaining aerial photography from kites, helicopters, petrol planes, balloons, even long poles, but seeing as RC planes are probably the most fun = I built my slow stick.

1. First thing to worry about was flying - Ive got this down now.

2. Choice of camera - for now id like to work with what ive got. Ive got a Canon sureshot and a Olympus Stylus 1030. Ill work with the latter as its shockproof.

3. Mount - Have been given two options from this thread . The paint stick version or the plexiglass version. Have not yet decided on which one to make. Although both have given a bit if info on how they were built, still a bit vague on some of the details.

Plexiglass version:
"The cameras are attached via the tripod mount and very close fit on the top "zoom" dial."
Did you buy a bolt that can fit into the tripod mount? If so what size was it? Not too sure about the zoom dial bit.

Paint Stick Version/Wooden Version appear easier to build. Saw this and skippping the servos to control the angle of the mount in flight, looks a bit more straightforward to build. Again this one looks fairly easy to build.

Ill decide on this within next few days.

4. Trigger System
Ive emailed the people at Gentled, and they can't confirm if my Olympus supports IR. The manual doesnt give any info on IR either. Therefore I dont want to waste my money on getting this if it doesnt work, ill probably get a servo trigger system set up.
4a - I assume you screw the servo to the mount, and then dont attach anything to the servo arm, and place it so the servo arm directly hits the camera click button?
4b - I have a AR6100 and a Spektrum DX6i. Which channel does the servo goto? How do you take a picture from the radio? Can it be rigged so you can just press a button on the radio and it takes a picture?

5. This is something I can sort out in the future - but consistent height would be handy so id therefore like to rig a altimeter on board. I can research this later.

6. Battery/Motor setup - I have a TP2408-21 combo currently running with a 2s lipo battery - works great. I also have a 3S1P battery but from another thread there was some discussion if it would burn out my motor. What setup would you recommend? Im going to be making an order to get a servo so if you think I should change anything with my motor setup, nows the time.

7. LG Re-inforcement - have already been given some tips from Hillbille
used the LG from a Eflite Ultra Stick
Can you buy re-inforced LG as a separate part from anywhere, and it fits the SS? The aluminium LG hillbille linked to - Looks a bit too much, my camera is fairly light anyhow.

8. Last one - Battery life - With a camera on board, realistically, how much time does this give me in the air on a calm day. Thats definitley the big disadvantage with Electric RC is the limited battery life. What measures can I take to get ++ time in the air.

Finished. Hit me.

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Old 08-14-2008, 12:33 PM
  #27  
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I don't us a bolt for mine...

I make more of a box for the camera to fit into, and use one of these to hold it in place.
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Old 08-14-2008, 02:28 PM
  #28  
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I can help out with # 7, this one is a direct fit no mod necessary. It looks like the first camera mount link shows this LG being used with some additional CF horizontal supports between the wheels.

Also on #8, I can tell you that with my setup (a geared inrunner) with a 1047 GWS prop and my heli battery (FP evo 25 11.1V 2150Mah) I get at least 15 minutes and still have battery to spare. If you can find a light high Mah battery it will increase your flight times.

I generally run it around 1/2 throttle but you'll have to do some testing to see how long you can go with the camera. I would use your countdown timer and a wattmeter or voltmeter to test.
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Old 08-14-2008, 05:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Ok - going to get a shopping list together soon - still a few more Qs.

Being a remote sensing analyst, I want to do this properly. I expect a bit of trial and error to begin with, but in the long term, I want to be able to get decent aerial (straight down) photography which could also be used to accompany some of my project work. Therefore keeping this in mind, I want to build something that will get me some quality pictures.

I have seen various other ideas on obtaining aerial photography from kites, helicopters, petrol planes, balloons, even long poles, but seeing as RC planes are probably the most fun = I built my slow stick.

1. First thing to worry about was flying - Ive got this down now.

Never enough flying experience! Fly. Fly. Fly some more in wind, sun, cloudy, fly overhead at midday, high, very high, and - almost out of sight!! I strongly suggest you weigh your camera - add 2 ounces for the mount and actuation system and then substitute dead weight ("D" cell batteries, sockets, etc., etc..) on your plane - THEN fly it. You will get a feel not only for the weight of your setup but the speed at which the plane must go to carry the weight. THEN you may decide to make adjustments to suit your needs better.

2. Choice of camera - for now id like to work with what ive got. Ive got a Canon sureshot and a Olympus Stylus 1030. Ill work with the latter as its shockproof.

OK.

3. Mount - Have been given two options from this thread . The paint stick version or the plexiglass version. Have not yet decided on which one to make. Although both have given a bit if info on how they were built, still a bit vague on some of the details.

Plexiglass version:
Did you buy a bolt that can fit into the tripod mount? If so what size was it? Not too sure about the zoom dial bit.

Paint Stick Version/Wooden Version appear easier to build. Saw this and skippping the servos to control the angle of the mount in flight, looks a bit more straightforward to build. Again this one looks fairly easy to build.

Ill decide on this within next few days.

4. Trigger System
Ive emailed the people at Gentled, and they can't confirm if my Olympus supports IR. The manual doesnt give any info on IR either. Therefore I dont want to waste my money on getting this if it doesnt work, ill probably get a servo trigger system set up.
4a - I assume you screw the servo to the mount, and then dont attach anything to the servo arm, and place it so the servo arm directly hits the camera click button?

For #'s 3, 4, and 4a I will add to my original "How To (or How I Did It! LOL!!) thread. Link from my earlier post will take you there.

4b - I have a AR6100 and a Spektrum DX6i. Which channel does the servo goto? How do you take a picture from the radio? Can it be rigged so you can just press a button on the radio and it takes a picture?

I use the gear (RETRACT) channel for mine - solid on/off - for the servo - shutter button depressed/ shutter button released.

5. This is something I can sort out in the future - but consistent height would be handy so id therefore like to rig a altimeter on board. I can research this later.

IMHO - Unless you go extremely high dollar/pound setup with FPV and OSD this is just not practical - except for AFTER the flight analysis.

6. Battery/Motor setup - I have a TP2408-21 combo currently running with a 2s lipo battery - works great. I also have a 3S1P battery but from another thread there was some discussion if it would burn out my motor. What setup would you recommend? Im going to be making an order to get a servo so if you think I should change anything with my motor setup, nows the time.

Test your motor/esc/battery setup WITH THE FLYING WEIGHT of the AP system - if it works at full weight then it is suitable for working flights. (This is where that DEAD WEIGHT comes in handy - testing!!)

7. LG Re-inforcement - have already been given some tips from Hillbille

Light and strong as is possible.

Can you buy re-inforced LG as a separate part from anywhere, and it fits the SS? The aluminium LG hillbille linked to - Looks a bit too much, my camera is fairly light anyhow.

8. Last one - Battery life - With a camera on board, realistically, how much time does this give me in the air on a calm day. Thats definitley the big disadvantage with Electric RC is the limited battery life. What measures can I take to get ++ time in the air.

Once flying weight is known then the power to weight ratio can be addressed with bigger (capacity) batteries and "C" rating. The power to weight ratio can be addressed with a more powerful everything (LOL!!) i. e. battery, motor, prop, etc., etc.. AP is like racing - how fast do you want to spend? I generally only fly for 8 minutes - 4 or 5 to climb to altitude - 2 or 3 for pictures - and 1 or 2 to setup and land.

Finished. Hit me.

Hillbille
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
This link when followed on MY system only shows the ORIGINAL POST - a single installment of the thread - in order to see the entire thread you must look to the top right of the page that link takes you to and then click on the

Thread
: My Slow Stick Camera Mounts for AP - AV



link. I don't know why this is - but it is. Perhaps that is why you had so much trouble understanding the mount - the explanation was clipped from view!! LOL!! Oh well - hope this helps - and if not I can just repost all the pictures here - as well as the explanations - but I really don't want to invade your thread with my stuff.

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Old 08-15-2008, 10:30 AM
  #31  
jakc
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hillbillie - diamond geezer. I was looking at the cropped thread, now that youve given me correct link theres a lot more useful info in there - I rekon Ill try replicate your mount. Ill head to DIY store at the weekend and report back...

As for the LG, I liked the look of X-Gear from the States, but I keep getting stitched up on tax when ordering stuff from over your way (im in UK). Ill see if they have a UK distributor/alternative.

Ill be back...l
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Old 08-17-2008, 01:35 PM
  #32  
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I was having a think and was just about to head to DIY store to get some plexiglass...

As light as it is, the plexiglass is dead weight. Surely taking advantage of cameras tripod mount and use some sort of clamp to attach the camera to the fuselage. Dont get me wrong - your work looks great and does the job. I was just thinking that for my purposes perhaps simpler would be better (even thought about just zip tieing my camera to the fuselage)

i.e. on a ball bearing swivel so any direction is possible.

I havent put much more thought than that, but links like this and this and this have got me thinking...

let me know what you think or if you have seen anything similar on a slow stick.

One issue I guess is how to mount a servo if there is no casing to glue it to.
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:48 PM
  #33  
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I found that the Canon cameras I am using have an offset tripod mount - meaning the mount is not centered on the bottom of the camera. With battery the camera weight is 7.8 oz.. Every mount I tried using the tripod mount exclusively didn't work for ME. The mount would either cause twist to the airframe (due to being offset for lens placement!) or it would conduct a lot of vibration and make steady pictures (unblurred) almost impossible due to transfer of vibration and/or wind to the camera.

If you are after tilt/pan mount - then Kosh's example is best - use a wooden slat ( we call them yardsticks) or paint stir sticks or ply. Same principle except instead of hot glue you'll need CA or other suitable wood glue and instead of a tongue and groove system you can use butt joints.

One other point to make here. You will crash. A full coverage mount provides quite a bit more protection to your camera than having it mounted solely by it's tripod mount. The cameras I use were purchased broken ( I try to buy cameras with a broken LCD - don't use it 1500 ft. up!!) and I get them at a greatly reduced price - usually under $50 shipped to my door so I don't have too much invested, but losing one is still a blow - if not to my wallet then to my pride but it HAS happened. I accept it. Every choice you make is for strength or weight and some are trade-offs. The mount/LG is one of these decisions. Trade strength for protection and sacrifice a little weight or build as light as possible and extend your safety margins for flight a great deal!! (Shorter flights with fully charged batteries and no chance od dead stick landings - and always in perfect weather!!) You'll get the latter about once or twice a year only so be ready for it!!

Most of these things discussed here are decisions made FROM flying and not before. You will need to decide on how you want to take your pictures - the altitude needed and the type of camera/plane needed to get the job done - then modify - modify - modify!!!! LOL!!!



Hillbille

Last edited by hillbille; 08-17-2008 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Fumblethumbs.
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Old 08-20-2008, 06:40 PM
  #34  
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Jakc I looked at the info on the Stylus 1030 but could not find an IR info.
So you may be up to using servo trigger.

If you had a camera that had IR support you could use a Prism switch as I do.

I have made many camera mounts an I always use paint sticks an sometimes a little lite ply.

I found you get much better pics with the forward facing camera mount. Less blur if you are flying to the object other than passing as taking a pic.

If you make a tilt adjustable mount make sure you make the center line of the camera the tilt point. That way it don't change CG no mater which way you point the camera.

MWeaver has a few more pics of the camera mount he made like mine on his AP Plane Thread HERE
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Last edited by TaSaJaRa; 08-20-2008 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 08-20-2008, 06:46 PM
  #35  
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On the landing gear I made my gear from 3/32 music wire.
And I used paint sticks to mount it to my plane with a few tie wraps.
2 screws through the fuse to hold it in place. Works great for me.
I use speaker wire to wrap the 2 legs together than a little electrical solder to hold it in place.
It also doubles as my battery mount on one of my planes.
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Last edited by TaSaJaRa; 08-20-2008 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:41 AM
  #36  
jakc
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Thanks Tasa - really helps having those pictures.

Im making an order with HobbyCity now for some various bits - whilst im there, might as well order a new servo for taking the pictures (clicking the button) - this ok?

Anything else you recommend ordering whilst im here?

Motor setup I initially bought (was previously recommended to me for camera payload) - TowerPro BM2408 and a 3S battery (currently use 2s with no payload)

Do people agree with above setup for a small Olympus camera? (203 g (7.2 oz))

Im also getting a prop - any advice on size - else ill get a 1047 size

And although I am likely to try and boost my LG with a little DIY (and from tips from you lot) do HobbyCity stock anything similar to the X Gear LG from the States?

Thanks all
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:59 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Im making an order with HobbyCity now for some various bits - whilst im there, might as well order a new servo for taking the pictures (clicking the button) - this ok?
Depending on how hard it is to depress the button on your camera, you might want to opt for a slightly stronger servo, such as this one. The cheap-o blue servos are an awesome value for the money, but they are a lot more likely to strip out under load.

Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Anything else you recommend ordering whilst im here?
Replacement TP motor shafts. Cheap, and good to have handy. Also, it's always a good idea to tack on 3-4 extra $3 servos if you can fit them on to your order without pushing it up to the next shipping tier, weight wise.

Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Motor setup I initially bought (was previously recommended to me for camera payload) - TowerPro BM2408 and a 3S battery (currently use 2s with no payload)

Do people agree with above setup for a small Olympus camera? (203 g (7.2 oz))


I really like the 2408-21 motor for the Slow Stick. However, since you're placing an order anyway, you might want to do some experimenting with some different parts to find what works good for you. One other motor that I REALLY like a lot now is the Turnigy 2830 bell style. It's only 10 bucks, and is a remarkably efficient little motor. Buy a cheap mount to go with it (I think this one should work with a Slow Stick and the 2830), solder some bullet connector on the three motor wires that match the ones you installed on your ESC, and then you should have a hot swappable motor combo. I'm really impressed with the power efficiency of the Turnigy motors--they seem like they get a bit more flight time than my TowerPro motors. And they barely get warm, even after running all out for a full flight.

But to answer your question, the 2408-21 should do just fine with that payload on a Slow Stick. Just be sure you get in plenty of practice time flying your SS with the 3S before doing so with the camera mounted. It definitely wants to kick a bit harder with that extra voltage strapped in.

Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Im also getting a prop - any advice on size - else ill get a 1047 size
I would actually probably go with a 9047 (9"x4.7") when running a 3S. It's going to be spinning quite a bit faster, and one thing I notice on mine when flying with a 3S LiPo is that, unless the prop is just PERFECTLY balanced, it gets some nasty resonance going at full throttle. I might could fix that by switching from a prop saver to a bolt-on prop, but then I'd miss being able to run off the same prop for months at a time.

Good luck!
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Old 08-28-2008, 12:21 PM
  #38  
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Thanks for those links - Like the look of the engine, but may stick with my towerpro and see how it handles with 3S and some dummy weight to simulate the camera.

Think id like to add another 2S battery to my list - just so that I can have one charging whilst im flying the other - this one (you recommended b4) is what I currently have - It does its job well - could order another, but perhaps HC have a different 2S battery that is considerably "better"?

Also - bit unsure about props - previously one came with the SS and another with the TowerPro motor - Is this what I need (ill take your advice and get a 9047).

Thanks again.

(Is there nothing on HC for strengthened LG for a SlowStick?)
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Old 08-28-2008, 06:37 PM
  #39  
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HC doesn't carry a wide range of "parts" like a LHS would. If you have friends that fly or know of a "club" nearby you might see if you can find an individual that owns an E-Flight Ultrastick 25e. These planes come with an additional LG (aluminum) for mounting floats to the plane. Unless the individual plans to mount floats you might get a nice set of LG for nearly nothing. Then just drill a few holes and make a top plate - then sandwich the "stick" between and you'll have strong lightweight LG!

BTW - I use the HTX900 servos for nearly everything I fly - including both my AP Slow Sticks as well as for actuators for the camera mounts. Very strong little servos!!

Also I used the TP 2409-18 motor early on - 3s 2150mah and used either a GWS DD1080 or the HD 1170 to pull it all into the air. I have now changed motors to a little more watts as I currently use Electrifly 35-30-950's on both AP SS's. Pull 250 watts (on my Eagletree V3) going to altitude and then reduces to 8 - 12 amps for level flight depending on wind and weather. I highly reccomend the TP2409-18 as a better motor for your plane to START with for AP. Lower KV rating and more torque. The TP 2409-18 is a 180 watt motor and in my experience can pull fairly constant 15 to 17 amps without overheating. Don't forget effeciency though - you'll want every bit of power but also every extra minute of time for the weight. Only you can decide on your needs - we out here can make suggestions as to what works for us - but it may not work for you. Altitude - weather - weight and skill are primary factors. The BP 2408-21 is a fine motor - just not well suited to over amping (I believe it;s a 100 watt motor @ 1400kv?) and supposed to be limited to 12 amps - but people routinely run them at 14 - 17 amps. Your choice but you can never have too much power.


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Old 08-28-2008, 07:00 PM
  #40  
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I second that .... The lower Kv motors from 850Kv to 950Kv are much better to use for AP your able to run 11" to 12" props with good thrust to carry your load.

I tend to buy a good motor for my AP stuff. I don't want to lose a $250 camera cause I used a $20 motor that may fail. But for the price they are not that bad. I am now using a JustGoFly.com 550xt with a 11x4.7sf prop. And Vinnie @JGF has used a 12x8HD on the same motor with good luck.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:11 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
Also I used the TP 2409-18 motor early on - 3s 2150mah and used either a GWS DD1080 or the HD 1170 to pull it all into the air. I have now changed motors to a little more watts as I currently use Electrifly 35-30-950's on both AP SS's. Pull 250 watts (on my Eagletree V3) going to altitude and then reduces to 8 - 12 amps for level flight depending on wind and weather. I highly reccomend the TP2409-18 as a better motor for your plane to START with for AP. Lower KV rating and more torque. The TP 2409-18 is a 180 watt motor and in my experience can pull fairly constant 15 to 17 amps without overheating.
I have a couple of the 2409-18s as well, and while I do like the motor, we should point out to jakc that if he DOES upgrade to that motor, he will also need to upgrade to a signficantly larger battery as well. Whereas the 2408-21 is a relatively efficient, low-power-draw motor (maxxes out at around 110w, according to the spec sheet), the 2409-18 maxxes out at 180w. I actually replaced the motor in my brother's Pitts bipe with a 2409-18, and while it does have plenty of power, I notice that the 1200mah 3S lipo doesn't last very long at all (7-8 minutes at most).

Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
Don't forget effeciency though - you'll want every bit of power but also every extra minute of time for the weight. Only you can decide on your needs - we out here can make suggestions as to what works for us - but it may not work for you. Altitude - weather - weight and skill are primary factors. The BP 2408-21 is a fine motor - just not well suited to over amping (I believe it;s a 100 watt motor @ 1400kv?) and supposed to be limited to 12 amps - but people routinely run them at 14 - 17 amps. Your choice but you can never have too much power.
Yeah, I definitely agree with you about the 2408-21 not being suited to a very heavy payload. However, for a small digital camera (5-6 oz.), I think it should do fine so long as you fly her gentle. But if jakc starts wanting to load on a heavier, higher quality camera for some serious AP/AV, then he will definitely need to consider a larger motor like the 2409-18, and perhaps even a heavier duty plane (like one of the balsa Stick models).

I actually have a TP 2409-12 with a 2250mah 3S turning an 8x6 prop on my main AV/AP Slow Stick, and let me tell you--it's awesome being able to take off, point the nose straight up, and rocket directly to 500' or higher, all in about 30 seconds .

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Old 08-29-2008, 12:20 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Think id like to add another 2S battery to my list - just so that I can have one charging whilst im flying the other - this one (you recommended b4) is what I currently have - It does its job well - could order another, but perhaps HC have a different 2S battery that is considerably "better"?
You won't find a better battery "value" than that 2S from DealExtreme--it just can't be beat that price, especially with free shipping. But--if you're wanting a higher capacity 2S, then I like the 2S Zippys that they have over at HobbyCity (or HobbyKing, or whatever they're called now). I have two of these 1000mah 2S for just over $7, and they've worked just fine through 10s of cycles each now. They also have plenty of others to choose from; this one is an 1800mah 2S Zippy for $14. All are quite affordable. But of course, if you're not going to want to be using these batteries for AP/AV, as you'll likely need the extra power of a 3S to lift your camera payload into the air and keep it there.

Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Also - bit unsure about props - previously one came with the SS and another with the TowerPro motor - Is this what I need (ill take your advice and get a 9047).
Another tip on props--be sure to buy good quality props and NEVER the crappy knock-off GWS-style black slow-flyer (SF) props that they sell at hobby shops. Those things are absolutely worthless garbage; I've never flown with one where it didn't cause resonance. I like the orange GWS props and the APC props. I also like the "stiff" black EP props, although I'm not sure what brand they are.
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:02 AM
  #43  
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Ok, Kosh--forgive me, but I copied one of your SS camera mount designs pretty much wholesale, right down to the nylon thumb screws.

Over the weekend, I got in some nice AV of my parents property using my FlyCamOne2. I showed it to my mom, and she thought it was just awesome.

"Can you get us a picture of the land so we can blow it up and frame it?," she asked.

"Well... probably not so much with this little camera--it's good for videos, and OK for pictures, but they don't blow up well." I explained later to my dad that I needed a better quality camera with a decent optical lens on board the plane in order to get some pictures that would look decent blown up.

"Let me see what I've got..." he said, then went off rooting through his pile of electronics "projects". He pulls out a 4.0MP Kodak Easyshare C330 and asks, "Can you use this?"

It was a little bigger than I would choose as my ideal AP camera (bulky and 6.5oz loaded with the battery). But it was free, so I told him I'd see what I could do with it.

So anyway, that was yesterday (Sunday) night, and so I woke up this morning with a project on my mind. I made a quick trip to Home Depot (since the smaller local hardware store I usually go to was closed for Labor Day) and picked up three paint sticks and about $4 worth of wing-bolts, nylon screws, and tee nuts, came home, measured out what I needed, then commenced to building away, all with Kosh's pics from earlier in this thread sitting open in the laptop browser's window. All I used for assembly was high-strength duct tape (to hold the shape together) and Gorilla Glue for all the joints. Once it dried, it was VERY strong, and I'll be comfortable letting the plane fly with the camera onboard (especially since I'll do like Kosh, and have the wrist strap tied to the SS fuse while it's on board).

Also, power shouldn't be a problem, as I'm running a 200W Tower Pro 2409-12 with a 2250mah 3S lipo turning an 8x6 straight prop on my red Slow Stick. It will take off in about 3 feet when loaded out with the FCO2 camera and head straight up without hesitation, so I'm pretty sure my SS should be able to at least get off the ground carrying this camera, although I'll probably want a little more room for take-offs and landings than just my little back yard.

Anyway, the attached pictures below are the result. I haven't had a chance to paint it yet, and I haven't exactly figured out how I'm going to mount it (still have to do some figuring on how and where I'm going to attach it to the plane), and I also have to reinforce the stock Slow Stick landing gear. But all in all, I think it turned out great, particularly the servo trigger that pushes the button on the camera--I have it hooked up to channel 4, so I just push left on the throttle stick to take a picture.

Let me know if any of ya'll have suggestions for the best practice when installing a camera mount like this onto a SS. I'm thinking I'll probably end up moving the battery to the front of the wing and then hanging the camera directly beneath the wing's CG (or maybe a little farther back, depending on how the CG falls with that big 2250mah 3S lipo sitting further forward on the fuse.
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Last edited by gzsfrk; 09-02-2008 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:34 AM
  #44  
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Ok - just being cautious again....


3mm Prop Saver


HXT900 9g - for taking pictures (prob get a spare)

TowerPro BM2409-18T / 25A BEC / 9x4.7 Prop Combo
Do we agree on the prop size for this motor? I assume I can j#use the ESC from my TP BM2408 with this motor as well, but thought might as well get the bundle deal. (other prop sizes were 9x6 & 8x3.8)

I have already got a ABF 2200mAh 11.1v 18-23C Lipoly 3S battery
Is this an ok battery for the above motor or will it be running out of juice pretty quick?



gzsfrk - I need to follow your lead and just sit down and start building my camera mount - looks good, thanks for the photos.
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Old 09-02-2008, 03:53 PM
  #45  
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Prop choices for me were always trial and error. It always seemed to be at least one step larger than everyone else suggested - I think due to WHERE I fly and the prevailing conditions. Weather - i.e. humidity, wind, temperature play a large roll in selection also. What I'm getting at is there is no set formula or absolute selection for props - you will need to experiment to find what works best for you.

I have not had too much success with SLOWFLY props - the "rounded" style prop as they do not suit my flying needs. SLOWFLY props tend toward high energy usage (higher thrust) and low speed. I like the DD or HD props better because I want my plane to gain altitude as quickly as possible to give me more "positioning" time for AP. On my "18" I found that it liked the GWS DD1080 prop best. I tried the HD1170 but it made the motor too hot for my taste and the performance wasn't that much better. The DD1060 just didn't give me the "lift" I was after and so I used the DD1080 for my "18" almost exclusively. The GWS props are more "flexible" than the APC props - but they also will take more of a beating before breaking. Also prop savers quit working for me after a certain weight limit. The prop would pull off during take off. This was due to the overall weight of the aircraft more than anything else. I reverted to prop adapters after that. The short motor shaft (8 mm to 10 mm) works for either the prop saver or adapter so just get one of each and carry both.

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Old 09-02-2008, 06:09 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by jakc View Post
Ok - just being cautious again....


3mm Prop Saver


HXT900 9g - for taking pictures (prob get a spare)

TowerPro BM2409-18T / 25A BEC / 9x4.7 Prop Combo
Do we agree on the prop size for this motor? I assume I can j#use the ESC from my TP BM2408 with this motor as well, but thought might as well get the bundle deal. (other prop sizes were 9x6 & 8x3.8)
2409-18 is a great motor, although you might want to use a longer prop; I've used a 1047 on one of mine, and it seemed to work fine. Also, you need a 25 amp ESC--don't use the 18 amp ESC that came with your 2408-21 combo, or you will likely burn it out. Besides, you want to go ahead and spend the little bit of extra money that the combo would cost you over what the 2409-18 motor and mount would cost, since you'll have an extra set of electrics to go into a second plane.

In fact, you may well want to keep your current Slow Stick as it is, and pick up another $19 slope glider Slow Stick kit (if you can find one--I know you said you had trouble finding that one somewhere local), and use the first one as your trainer plane and the second one as your official AP plane.

Oh, and always pick up 3 or 4 extra $3 servos whenever you place an order with HobbyCity; you'll always find something to use them for sooner or later. And nothing is more frustrating than needing a cheapie servo and not having one, and then having to decide between paying $15 for a similiar servo from your LHS or waiting 2-3 weeks to get an order in from Hong Kong.

Originally Posted by jakc View Post
I have already got a ABF 2200mAh 11.1v 18-23C Lipoly 3S battery
Is this an ok battery for the above motor or will it be running out of juice pretty quick?
That battery will work fine with the 2409-18. Since it's 2200mah and ~20C, that means it should handle up to a 44000ma (44 amp) continuous draw. And as long as you're not running it with an over-sized prop, the 2409-18 shouldn't ever go over 22-23 amps.

Also, you should get some nice, long flights with it, especially flying conservatively (20+ minutes if you alternate between powered flight and gliding).

Originally Posted by jakc View Post
gzsfrk - I need to follow your lead and just sit down and start building my camera mount - looks good, thanks for the photos.
It was easier than it looks. Just get some good, strong glue (Gorilla or Sumo), some duct tape (to hold the joints so the glue can dry), three 1" paint stirrer sticks, and the few pieces of needed hardware (nylon thumb screws, tee nuts, and wing screws--one of which is used for screwing into the tripod mount in the bottom of your camera), and then just sit down with the camera and Kosh's pics showing and start building.. You should be able to bang it out in a couple of hours (most of the time spent waiting for the glue to harden).

Of course, I haven't maidened it yet, so I may yet have a different story to tell following that flight.
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Old 09-02-2008, 07:10 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by hillbille View Post
Also prop savers quit working for me after a certain weight limit. The prop would pull off during take off. This was due to the overall weight of the aircraft more than anything else. I reverted to prop adapters after that. The short motor shaft (8 mm to 10 mm) works for either the prop saver or adapter so just get one of each and carry both.
I used to have that problem, with the prop saver letting the prop wobble and sometimes even letting it fly off. But I read where CHELLIE suggested using two O-rings to hold the prop on tight, and I've not had any problems since. Of course, for any high-rpm or heavy props, I'd say it's best to go will a collet style prop adapter. But when I'm using a prop saver, I just double up on the O-rings and I'm good to go.
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Old 09-03-2008, 05:39 AM
  #48  
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Ok, so I finished up my camera mount build tonight, figuring out how to attach it to my Slow Stick. I managed to get everything situated on the plane with CG in the right place on the wing. I also did some pretty basic landing gear reinforcement, but I think it should work well enough until I invest the time in a completely new LG setup.

The AUW is pretty heavy now, and I'm a bit worried about how much space I'm going to need to take off and land, so it should make for an interesting re-maiden.

Pics are attached below.
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:37 PM
  #49  
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Ok--just got back from the re-maiden, and the newly modified AV/AP Slow Stick performed like a champ. It did indeed take a good bit farther to take off, but the trusty little 2409-12 motor kicked in and picked it right up off the ground in about 12 feet. It also obviously flew "heavier", but that wasn't altogether a bad thing. It was honestly a lot more stable than it used to fly, presumably because the lighter winds weren't affecting it nearly as much. It definitely doesn't turn on a dime anymore, though. And I'm probably NOT going to be trying any loop-de-loops with it any time soon.

The one thing that I'm really going to have to improve is the rear landing gear. While it didn't let the tail feathers drag the ground on takeoff, it was smushed right down to almost letting them drag. So I'll probably just make some replacement gear out of some stiff piano wire I have left over from another project, and then upgrade both the front and rear gear at a later time.

I did take some pictures with the camera in flight, but I forgot to put an SD card in it to use beforehand, and the camera saved the shots to internal memory. Of course, problem is, the C330 apparently uses some kind of custom cable or dock instead of a standard USB cable, and my Dad didn't send that with me Sunday. So I'll hopefully get a chance to get in another flight with a memory card loaded within the next day or so and take some pictures I can post then. I'm interested to see how the quality compares to the somewhat washed out shots I'm used to with my FCO2.

Ok, jakc--your turn. Build your mount and get that Olympus 1030 skybourne. Like my old tile-floor-laying mentor used to tell me, "Nothin' to it but ta do it."


UPDATE: I figured out how to get the pics off the camera's internal memory (used the camera's interface to copy the pictures from the internal memory to the SD card), and I've attached them below. And yes--it's MUCH improved quality over the FCO2 still pics. Of course, I'll need to tweak the picture mode before my next flight. I left it set to AUTO, and these pics seemed to come out a bit hazy. I realize part of that is going to be the atmosphere, but I think I'll try "Landscape" next time and see if that makes it look any better.
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Last edited by gzsfrk; 09-04-2008 at 06:02 AM.
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Old 09-06-2008, 11:58 AM
  #50  
jakc
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Awesome pics - nice work.

Ive made my order with HC and off to hardware store today to get some nylon screws...

Was tempted to buy another glider but im moving to Australia next Spring, so will start from scratch once ive moved.

Hopefully the 2409-18 will be ok without the camera weight so I dont have to keep swapping ESC/motor around.
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