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Guillows SE5 conversion

Old 11-03-2008, 02:02 PM
  #26  
dbcisco
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Here's my build so far. These pics show the RX and ESC I'm using and the placement of the servos. This also shows the metal and glass board I use and in the background of one pic you can see the stack of magnets I use. The odd looking cresent shaped bits of metal are the super strong magnets from hard-drives that I use to hold the glass to the metal plate.



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Old 11-03-2008, 06:04 PM
  #27  
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Moving along well. Having one of these, I would try to talk you into moving the servos as far forward as possible, but the plane can handle some added noseweight with no problem for balance. The long nose with the 180 should help a lot too. The 180 was a good choice as the IPS brushed are likely to not have the power to fly these Guillows planes, as I've found out. The SE5A has a wing pan which is just asking to be made into an access panel, so there is no problem accessing servos under the wing.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Bill G View Post
Moving along well. Having one of these, I would try to talk you into moving the servos as far forward as possible, but the plane can handle some added noseweight with no problem for balance. The SE5A has a wing pan which is just asking to be made into an access panel, so there is no problem accessing them under the wing.
I am making the wings detatchable. So far the CG is pretty nice, by adjusting (and choosing) the battery I can move the CG around quite a bit. I also am using alot of balsa skin on the nose which helps. I like the servos under the cockpit for adjustments and replacement. They also provide smoother movement of the control rods where they are. More pics to follow this week.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:17 PM
  #29  
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Yep, definitely want to sheet the nose so it looks scale and adds noseweight. Nice feature as it makes for a strong plane too.
I like easy adjustments on gear too, and use the adjustable servo horn links. It is a bit tedious working inside the fuses of these small planes.
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:30 PM
  #30  
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Hey DB and Bill,
Thanks the pic's and info it is greatly appreciated, I'll add some photo's when the rest of my gear arrives, feel free to add any comments etc. -Reuben
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Old 11-04-2008, 03:37 AM
  #31  
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Looking good, dbcisco!
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Old 11-04-2008, 05:42 AM
  #32  
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Have skinned the nose and added some reinforcements. Yes that is a popsicle stick. It is where I am putting fixtures to hold the cabane struts with tiny screws. I also reinforced the sides of the wing bay area with balsa. CG still decent, too.

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Old 11-04-2008, 07:13 AM
  #33  
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Dbcisco,
I like the sheeting idea, I have some 1/64 birch plywood that I'm going to use. The popsicle stick is a good idea Im thinking I need to upgrade the wing struts and their mounting area. I was thinking of using some flat carbon sheet for the wing struts and landing gear or some ply. Do you have any tips or ideas regarding the rigging eyelets? if I use the carbon for the wing struts then I might drill holes through them and pass wire through the fuselarge with eyelets for the center ones? I hope that makes sense
Im just building the elevator tonight and should have that finished tonight/tomorrow.
Cheers Reuben
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:20 AM
  #34  
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Speaking of CG, I just checked my CG a few minutes ago for you and it is:
CG: 14mm back from LE of bottom wing

I would not try further back than 15, as I flew it just a few mm rearward from my current setting and it was a handful.

For rigging eyelets, I cut off GWS Pico Stick pushrod guides and attached them to my SE5A struts with a wrap of Guillow's control line string and CA. Worked well.
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Old 11-04-2008, 07:45 AM
  #35  
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Thanks Bill,
For me to buy the pico stick push rod guides locally I would have to buy the whole kit ($59 NZ)
I will try to find something else that will do the job, I'm guessing that something small and round that I can bind to the wing struts will work.

I will write your COG measurment on to my plans for reference

Thanks again,
Reuben
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:43 PM
  #36  
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Default Rigging eyelets

I made 2 different kinds on my last build. Some were made of music wire, put thru the spars, and some were nylong string, tied into a tiny loop, then tied to the structure before the covering went on.
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Old 11-04-2008, 05:27 PM
  #37  
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On my planes where the brace wires are for looks only I try to use one continously wire(string). Where it needs to run through balsa or foam I glue a glass bead or if it needs to run a distance through a wing or fuselage I glue a piece of cotton swap plastic tube. At the end of the completed loop I tie both ends to a polyband scunci that granddaughter uses in her hair. That keeps the wire tight. Polybands also are good to hold prop on prop saver.
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:19 AM
  #38  
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Hey guy's,
The last of my gear arrived today, the motor/esc and an AR6100e.
I had an idea where I was going to place everything.... but I've run in to a snag... the esc? I thought I could mount it behind the motor but its giving me clearance problems.
I'll add a pic, any advice would be great.
-Reuben
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Old 11-06-2008, 01:44 PM
  #39  
Bill G
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I know we don't all have money to constantly shell out for super light ESCs like the Castle TBird-6, so I'm not going to blame you for wanting to use that ESC. I ended up with my SE5A's ESC mounted under the wing, and it is a small TBird-9. I'm using a TP-PL 3s-480 and geared 12mm Feigao, and ended up needing maybe 1/2oz of nose lead if I remember correctly. With your up-front weight being more than mine, you may want the ESC under the wing.

I also like the TP ProLites as the smaller sizes don't have the balancer in the way also. I charge my small batts at low rates, and they have held up well.

On a 2 sided issue, I've gotten some of these planes to fly well, while pretty heavy. On the other hand, I would try to size down the ESC and batt to what you need.
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:25 PM
  #40  
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Thanks Bill,
I'm kind of thinking the same thing. I'll see what I can find locally in the way of a smaller esc, I know I can get smaller batteries.
Thanks Reuben
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Old 11-07-2008, 01:16 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by reuben199 View Post
Hey guy's,
The last of my gear arrived today, the motor/esc and an AR6100e.
I had an idea where I was going to place everything.... but I've run in to a snag... the esc? I thought I could mount it behind the motor but its giving me clearance problems.
I'll add a pic, any advice would be great.
-Reuben
Will the ESC mount vertical between the battery and servo with the flat side toward the battery?
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:57 AM
  #42  
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Looking good, I had a lot of fun with mine as well. I managed to stuff a 11.1, 3 cell, 1000 mah lipo in mine and I was able to stuff in a 35 amp esc in that same compartment. It was a tight fit, but it balanced out quite well with no added nose weight needed. http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19112 Shows the bones, I have some final build log kicking around the web somewhere, lol.
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:49 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by degreen60 View Post
Will the ESC mount vertical between the battery and servo with the flat side toward the battery?

Hey,
It will fit but the wires have to be bent over, with the motor wires at the top leaving the battery wires at the bottom (but ideally I would prefer them the other way around)

I'm not beaten yet and currently I'm thinking of mounting the esc horizontally under the top of the cowlingabove the servo's.

Thanks Reuben
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:07 AM
  #44  
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Hey,
Just thought I would add a couple of pic's. I have made a tray running from the cowl to the servo's, its still in the design stage
I'm thinking of mounting the elevator servo upside down, the servo horn will be under the bottom of the rudder servo and vice versa (I hope that makes sense) The elevator rod will exit on the right side of the fuse and the rudder will exit on the left.

Eventually I will drill some holes in the tray to lighten it up. I'm still working on where the battery and esc will go, if I can I will mount the battery vertically and the esc behind it between the battery and receiver.
-Reuben
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:50 AM
  #45  
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Default Nice Mod!!

I did the same thing on another Guillows kit, it really helped strengthen it up and made it more sane with adding the gear since you have a platform to work on.
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:35 AM
  #46  
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Hi,
Thats what I'm thinking also . I'm currently just sitting the gear on there and finding the best set up. I'll add a pic with the gear on, (I'm now thinking I will try the esc and receiver verticle).
-Reuben
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Old 11-20-2008, 10:59 AM
  #47  
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Hey,
Thanks everyone for your help, I've come to the conclusion that my gear is just to heavy and bulky for this build, so I'm now just going to super detail it as a static model and use the gear in an e-flite SE5a. I really enjoyed reading what you guys have been able to do and hopefully one day I'll also be able to convert one of these kits but right now I think I would just be making match sticks
Cheers Reuben
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:05 AM
  #48  
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OK, Got the fuselage almost finished (pics to come when I get camera batteries). Weight with everything except battery is under 5 ounces. Alot less than I thought it would be. My little Nicad is about 4oz. but I can go with an even lighter Lipo if needed. Now if I can keep the wings between 6 and 10 ounces I will be very happy. Any hints on lightening the wings ? I will be using monocote/coverlite on them. Can I eliminate anything without them collapsing during heat shrink (or flight/landing/etc.)?
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Old 11-21-2008, 06:23 PM
  #49  
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I used monocoat, solite, and ultracoat on mine, the solite was the best bet, it's the lightest. Static model Do we still make those these days. That bird is a flyer, even with the bulky gear, it will do just fine, just watch the incidence.
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Old 11-21-2008, 08:40 PM
  #50  
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I am doing an experment with covering a Sterling UC Fokker DVII converted to EP RC with plastic kitchen wrap. I am gluing it on with school glue stick. It shrinks with low heat, is light weight, and is tuff. Don't know how paint will hold up on it.
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