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Anderson Power Poles

Old 01-17-2009, 11:23 AM
  #51  
slipstick
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Originally Posted by Cyclops View Post
I changed to them (Fastons) as they come in several sizes and crimp very well with anything. They are color coded. Have complete Nylon anti-shorting hoods on male & females. Dirt cheap @ H D or Lowes. They are the ones used in all appliances for many years.
Yes that's right, they're made for appliances and the like...where they're plugged together once when the unit is built and unplugged 5 years later when a component needs replacing. They are not intended for our sort of use with frequent connection/disconnection.

But good luck with them, hope they work well for you.

Steve

Last edited by slipstick; 01-18-2009 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:26 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Rabbitcreekok View Post
I use them and am really pleased. You can buy the crimping tool from West Mountain Radio, as well as the connectors.

The crimping tool from Anderson is very expensive, but is industrial strength for hundreds of thousands of uses. The West Mountain tool will be fine.
Here is a cheaper crimper tool from the site:
http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3324&CtgID=
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:45 AM
  #53  
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Misread......

Last edited by rcers; 01-18-2009 at 04:25 AM.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:51 AM
  #54  
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He was talking about the Fastons.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:54 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by flybyrc View Post
Here is a cheaper crimper tool from the site:
http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3324&CtgID=
That is the tool he was talking about and it is the one that is pictured above. The price dropped $10. When Liquidity bought his it was $49.99. What ever you do, do not by the cheap $12 pliar type crimper. I did and I then bought the more expensive ratcheting crimper.
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:28 PM
  #56  
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Hi guys. I also made the switch to PP. Love them! Got the contacts and crimper from Powerwerx. Question: Do any of you use the double prong thingy that I believe is intended to go between two sets of PP, to keep the connection from separating? For anyone not using this thing, have you ever had two sets of PP separate?

Thanks,

Tim
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:18 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by whitehawk View Post
Hi guys. I also made the switch to PP. Love them! Got the contacts and crimper from Powerwerx. Question: Do any of you use the double prong thingy that I believe is intended to go between two sets of PP, to keep the connection from separating? For anyone not using this thing, have you ever had two sets of PP separate?

Thanks,

Tim
No, I don't use them and I have never had two sets separate. I do use the roll pin to maintain alignment of pairs.
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Old 02-01-2009, 09:33 PM
  #58  
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I do not use the roll pin or the prong thing. I have never had the halves slide apart and, in fact, mine are very difficult to slide apart.
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:55 PM
  #59  
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I used to tape mine for added security, but I guess that was overkill.

Frank
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Old 02-02-2009, 01:38 AM
  #60  
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I dont use either the pin or the locking mechanism. Mine have been fine so far.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:36 AM
  #61  
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I've used the PPs since I got into RC in '97, and never had a failure of any sort. I don't use roll pin or locker, and the only seperations I ever had were the result of high impact arrivals (also known as crashes!), where seperation of pack and esc is a GOOD thing, not a problem.
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:50 PM
  #62  
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I've been using them for 4 years, after getting rid of all my deans.
I use this crimper, it's a beaut.
http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp...324&CtgID=3575
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:37 AM
  #63  
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This is probably in the wrong thread, but anyway...

I bought some general purpose 14 ga. copper stranded wire to use with the AA's. Do you guys think this is okay to use, or is there a better type of wire for general r/c stuff, like charging leads, battery extensions etc.

Tim
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:53 AM
  #64  
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Well that sort of depends on what "the AA's" means to you.

Steve
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:25 AM
  #65  
Keith wilson
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Originally Posted by slipstick View Post
Well that sort of depends on what "the AA's" means to you.

Steve

Care to explane what you ment by that?

...Keith...
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:32 AM
  #66  
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I dont know what an 'AA' is either other than a small battery for the remote control for my TV

Still, normal stranded wire - like you get at HomeDepot or RadioShack - isnt the best choice for RC use. It will not hold up well under constant flexing and vibration over time. It has a relatively low strand count and is probably PVC insulated or similar. It will be relatively stiff compared to our stuff.

It will crimp into the appropriately sized Anderson Power pole just fine however if thats what you are asking.

You are much better off using hi-strand count, silicone insulated wire. It is more expensive, but its what works best by far.

You can order it from many sources on-line. I havent found any local non-RC suppliers that carry it in stock in my area but you may have better luck if you live in a large metropolitin area.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:08 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by slipstick View Post
Well that sort of depends on what "the AA's" means to you.

Steve
Oops, meant the AP's (powerpoles).

Sorry,

Tim
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:14 AM
  #68  
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Stranded wire is want you want to use, do not use solid copper wire. Larry is correct about using a high strand count wire. PVC coated is good to use as well. It not as flexible as silicon coated wire but it is more nick/cut resistant.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:34 AM
  #69  
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Regarding the high strand count wire, should the packaging say "high strand count" or something to that effect? The wire that I picked up just says copper stranded. Appearance wise, this new wire looks copper in color. I say that because all the r/c wiring that I've seen to date looks silver in color.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:50 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by crosborne View Post
Stranded wire is want you want to use, do not use solid copper wire. Larry is correct about using a high strand count wire. PVC coated is good to use as well. It not as flexible as silicon coated wire but it is more nick/cut resistant.

Si
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:48 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by whitehawk View Post
Regarding the high strand count wire, should the packaging say "high strand count" or something to that effect? The wire that I picked up just says copper stranded. Appearance wise, this new wire looks copper in color. I say that because all the r/c wiring that I've seen to date looks silver in color.
The silvery color means its pre-tinned which is a good thing. The untinned wire is ok but it is far more subject to black wire rot and corrosion in general. Pre tinned is much better as far as corrosion and is of course much easier to solder.

If it just says "stranded" its probably not hi-strand count.

I dont know the exact numbers but regular stranded wire may have say 5 to 10 strands of wire. It may or may not be pre-tinned.

Hi-strand wire will have more like 75 to 200 strands. They are very very thin hair like strands and lots and lots of them.

Deans "Noodle wire" is one brand but you can et the same stuff from most of the US battery sellers or Tower or Aircraft world. Most any place that sells battery making supplies will sell the wire as well.
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:23 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Larry3215 View Post
The silvery color means its pre-tinned which is a good thing. The untinned wire is ok but it is far more subject to black wire rot and corrosion in general. Pre tinned is much better as far as corrosion and is of course much easier to solder.

If it just says "stranded" its probably not hi-strand count.

I dont know the exact numbers but regular stranded wire may have say 5 to 10 strands of wire. It may or may not be pre-tinned.

Hi-strand wire will have more like 75 to 200 strands. They are very very thin hair like strands and lots and lots of them.

Deans "Noodle wire" is one brand but you can et the same stuff from most of the US battery sellers or Tower or Aircraft world. Most any place that sells battery making supplies will sell the wire as well.
Thanks, Larry. That was the explanation I was looking for.

Tim
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:44 AM
  #73  
ministeve2003
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Hi Folks.... I've been using Powerpoles on quite a few models... However, I've also been using deans on certain stuff that I deemed that I needed "extra security" (Harder to pull apart) unfortunately, My bad soldering on deans melted the housing inside... everything appeared to be ok, but after a couple flights... I lost a plane due to battery disconnect (it never came out of the houseing).... two battery's that I soldered at the same time have the same problem....

So no... Like I've been telling myself ... I'm going to switch "ALL" my planes over to Power poles... I've tested them thoroughly enough to know they won't disconnect inflight.... which is basically the only problem That I was worried about...

I only have one question.... anyone use them in a heli?

SK
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Old 05-09-2009, 03:04 AM
  #74  
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If you still have worries about them disconnecting, there is a small plastic piece with two pins which engage the paired connectors thus assuring they cannot come apart by themselves.
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Old 05-09-2009, 03:05 AM
  #75  
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SK yes many use them in helis.

Your battery MUST be fully secured. If you are relying on a connector to secure your battery - you will have bigger issues than soldering!

I have used Anderson/Sermos connectors for about 6 years now - never had a single one disconnect.

Mike
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