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3s 11.1v 2200mah 25C Brand New 4 for $40

Old 03-09-2011, 06:49 PM
  #1  
purehobby
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Default 3s 11.1v 2200mah 25C Brand New 4 for $40

Poly RC PQ-2200XP-3SX Li-Poly Battery
11.1V 2200mAh (3 cells), 25C/50C
Rating: 25C (55.0A) continuous, 50C (110.0A) burst
Dimension: 107.0 x 33.5 x 29.5
Weight: 175g
Termination: Wire & Thunder Power tap

4 packs including US shipping $40.00 ($10.00 a pack)
buy 8 packs at a time and they are $74.00 ($9.25 a pack)

For international shipping pm me
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:00 PM
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purehobby
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Feel free to post what you consider a better deal.
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:05 PM
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TomBates
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I think it's a damn good price.

Tom
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:20 PM
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JBoyd
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Originally Posted by TomBates View Post
I think it's a damn good price.

Tom
I agree, $10 a piece including shipping for a 25C 2200 3S is very low, even for budget brand lipos.

Wish I had some extra cash lol
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:24 AM
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MountaineerLegion
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I got an email today from HobbyKing stating they now have "B-grade" Lipos, for those "not-so-important models" (that's a quote). They have a "B-Grade 3000mAh 3S 40C Lipoly Battery" for $14.

I wonder if these are similar?
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:09 AM
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Bub Steve
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Originally Posted by JBoyd View Post
I agree, $10 a piece including shipping for a 25C 2200 3S is very low, even for budget brand lipos.

Wish I had some extra cash lol
I just got some 2200 3S or I'd get some, bubsteve
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MountaineerLegion View Post
I got an email today from HobbyKing stating they now have "B-grade" Lipos, for those "not-so-important models" (that's a quote). They have a "B-Grade 3000mAh 3S 40C Lipoly Battery" for $14.

I wonder if these are similar?
The Poly's you can fly with, the B-grade you can't.. or rather don't want to. B-Grades have higher IR's than the other lipos, and HK says they will only last around 60 cycles.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:22 PM
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JBoyd,

That was my point. I don't have any "not-so-important models".

Not to highjack the thread but the OP brings up a good point. I found this thread last night on my way to search for any threads on the quality of Lipo brands. I'm brand new to electric power and have no experience with lipos. Acutally I have very limited experience with "packs" of nicads and now nimh. This wole lipo world has my head spinning.

I understand the adage that you get what you pay for but that isn't a hard and fast rule. My father bought a harbor freight magnetic base for a run-out gauge and wasn't happy with it. He then ordered a Craftsman one from Sears...identical but for double the cost.

The only two threads I could find specifically on the quality of brands were two years old. At the risk of a Ford vs Chevy debate would some of you give me a quick run down on which brands you think have the "correct" quality to cost ratio. I know "correct" can have many meanings...I just want to listen in on the discussion and I'll take from it what I can. Thanks.

Last edited by MountaineerLegion; 03-15-2011 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 03-15-2011, 08:44 PM
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Best for the money

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1244249
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Blast View Post
For this example, the reason for my madness is not just time, and not to peak the battery...Charging at 1C helps me stay comfortable (within reason) in not being in constant contact, monitoring the charge, I do have to walk away. Staying at 1C does not give me enough amps to peak the battery, but it does keep the electrons moving, and keep the battery from becoming stone cold between races, as well as put about half the juice back in I just took out.
Originally Posted by Nitro Blast View Post

In this example, I am pulling between 400~600 mAh in a heat race. In the time I get to charge, I'm putting about 350 back in. That allows me to do all the heats on 1, 2100 mAh battery. 1/3 out, 1/6 back in. After 3 races, my 2100 battery is about at 1100 mAh.

Now my Hyperion Yak 54 is another story. I fly it and charge it just as if the pack came out, but it does not. 3 years with the plane, and the pack has never been out of the plane.

It’s plain to see that the best risk mitigation is to remove the pack, place it in a fire safe container, and stand there and watch it charge.
Originally Posted by everydayflyer View Post
I flew a MUS for over 500 flights on a 3S A123 2300 mAh which never came out and I never balanced it either but I did check the balance from time to time. It was charged at an average rate of 20 amps. in a 6 to 6-1/2 minutes time frame. I did remove the battery hatch to disconnect the battery from the ESC and connect to the charger so it was easy to check the battery temperature and do a visual check for possible problems.


Originally Posted by Nitro Blast View Post
Let me give you the the situation this weekend, where I charged my battery in my plane 4 times in one day (in plane where the battery is somewhat easy to remove): Pylon Racing.
Originally Posted by Nitro Blast View Post

Between heats, we have a small window when we are not piloting, but assisting other pilots (Race one heat, be a caller next heat). So we don’t get but a minute or two to clear our aircraft from the runway, get them to the pits and get right back up to assist. In that time, I pop open the hatch, and plug in. I set the charge at 1C, and try to get as many electrons back in as possible for the next race.

That’s an example of where a knowledgeable pilot is making a 'risk assessment' and practicing reasonable safety, and charging inside the airplane.
Would you guys agree that one may never need to balance charge a well-matched quality LiPo pack when no more than 75% of rated capacity is ever depleted. In Nitro’s example above only 24% of capacity is depleted (500mAh from 2100mAh rated capacity) per race/heat, so balance charging would be almost laughable … Right?

I found Nitro’s comment about … “battery from becoming stone cold between races” interesting. Is what he’s really talking about … “1/3 out, 1/6 back in” more about upping the LiPo pack’s voltage(higher rpms) THAN allowing the battery to cool? The problem I see is by the third heat the average voltage of each cell may at best only be 3.75 volts (not resting bounce back recovery just before heat, but actual voltage say 5 seconds into the third heat)..

Your higher rate of charge (2C or 3C) could result in 1/3 out, 1/3 back in. It seems to me like your 2C and 3C charge rates would be the best thing to come along for Pylon Racers with Nitro’s example having 3 heats in which the best you can hope for is 1/3 out, 1/6 back in WHEN 1/3 out, 1/3 back in would insure Nitro of a FIRST PLACE. It almost seems as if Nitro is being too safety conscious(no higher than 1C rate) … Right? / Wrong?

So, that brings us back to the Turnigy NanoTech 2200mAh 3S 45C-90C. If Nitro were using it in his Pylon Racer it seems he would have an advantage in weight reduction and higher rpm … Right? / Wrong?

However, like restrictor plates with NASCAR … it’s possible that Nitro’s Club may have signs posted in the Pylon Racing Pit … ANY ONE CAUGHT CHARGING AT MORE THAN 1C OR 2.2 AMPS WILL BE DISQUALIFIED, REMOVED AND FINED or maybe the signs read, ANY ONE CAUGHT CHARGING AT MORE THAN 1C OR 2.2 AMPS WITH BATTERY IN PLANE WILL BE DISQUALIFIED, REMOVED AND FINED
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