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Which Glue for GWS Zero?

Old 02-09-2009, 03:20 PM
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gfdengine204
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Default Which Glue for GWS Zero?

OK I just got a GWS Zero kit. I have never used the GWS foam cement, and was curious what others have used to put these kits together. Curious what is the best product to use.

I have heard of folks using the GWS cement, wood glue, foam safe CA, epoxy. Just wondered what seems to work best, and if anyone uses any special methods to build these kits.
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:27 PM
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Kind of depends on what parts you're gluing Kev. Personally, I like to use epoxy for the wings but apply a very thin film and don't over do it. The GWS glue works fine too as long as you use it correctly. You need to dry fit the parts first, take them apart, apply the GWS glue to one side and put the parts together. Then pull them back apart and make sure the glue spread to both parts. Allow to dry for 5 to 10 minutes then very carefully put them back together. When you put them back together, they will stick where you put them so make sure they are lined up properly because you most likely won't get to reposition them

I prefer the epoxy on areas that need the extra strength and parts that have to slide in to each other. It lets the parts slide together without sticking them on contact. The GWS glue works well if done right and is lighter than epoxy. I rarely ever use CA on anything. I don't even own foam safe CA. Just my preference.
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:34 PM
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firemanbill
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I use the GWS glue, use it like Tom says and you'll have a good strong joint.

When I was first starting out and flying mostly GWS birds that is all I used to put them together. Of all the crashes I had, none of them caused any damage along the glue joints. It is strong stuff for sure.
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:16 PM
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/me raises paw too....

GWS glue as described. Good stuff. And you can catch a buzz from it if working in a confined space!
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:47 PM
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gfdengine204
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With the GWS glue, do I spread it after applying it (before pressing the two pieces together and pulling apart)? Or do I just place it in dabs across the area?
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:52 PM
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Either way. Again, it depends on what you're gluing. If it's the wings or tail surfaces, I would spread it out to make sure you have good coverage then put the parts together, pull apart, check that it transfered to the other part, let set and then put them together.
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:58 PM
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firemanbill
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I always spread it it out in a very thin layer. press together, pull apart, wait a bit, and put it back together.

Like the bug says, you can just do some spots on areas that are not critical structural areas but they give you enough to do it all.

I always have about half a tube leftover after finishing one up.
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:36 PM
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gfdengine204
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OK thanks fellas. You guys are the best.
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:46 PM
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Kev, The way hopper describes using the GWS glue is the correct way... BUT.

By accident I put some pieces together without letting the glue tack up.
It works like any other glue. You can move the pieces, so if you miss a little on the alignment, It's not permanently stuck.

The only draw back is it takes a long time for the glue to dry, like overnight.

But it's an alternative for when you have to slide some parts together and you don't want to use epoxy.

Paul
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:53 PM
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Twmaster
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I didn't really have time when I made my previous post to say all this but...

I really like the GWS glue on foam. And as pd1 says you can just use it wet like that. It will take forever and three days to dry though. And like Bill.. I've had the rest of a plane explode on impact leaving the joints intact. (I still miss that Formosa)

That glue is also great for repairs. Just work it like the Bug Man suggested and all will be well.

The downside to the glue is it smells bad. It strings like mad so be careful around the exterior of the bird so you don't get excess on a painted surface.

I've had heaps of GWS planes over the years and always have a tube of GWS glue on hand at my work table.

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Old 02-09-2009, 08:58 PM
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The GWS glue works well on re sticking the covering back on to Vapors too.

I like the GWS hinges too. They look flimsy, but you can't break them.

Paul
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:14 PM
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gfdengine204
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Well, Lord knows I'm in no hurry right now, so I will consider using Paul's accidental method for pieces I need to slide into place (and maybe anything else too, since knowing me, I'd line it up wrong )

Do you guys use the GWS glue for the hinges too? If so, how do you like it, and how do you do that?
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:24 PM
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Twmaster
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I use either thinned white glue or 'Super Phatic' on those GWS hinges as the glue soaks in nicely. On CA type plasticy hinges I use foam safe CA. Although I am becoming allergic to that too.
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:42 PM
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Default GWS Adhesive

Originally Posted by gfdengine204 View Post
OK I just got a GWS Zero kit. I have never used the GWS foam cement, and was curious what others have used to put these kits together. Curious what is the best product to use.

I have heard of folks using the GWS cement, wood glue, foam safe CA, epoxy. Just wondered what seems to work best, and if anyone uses any special methods to build these kits.

What Grasshopper said. Use GWS adhesive as a contact cement when gluing the fuselage together. Epoxy for elevator & spar joins. My preference is to put a thin line of GWS glue on one side, spread it VERY thin with your finger, then do the same with the other piece. Let dry for 5-10 mins. and CAREFULLY join together (at this point make sure it is where you want it). Let no man put asunder or foam failure will result!
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:12 PM
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Kev, I don't know if this is the correct way or not, but this is how I do the GWS hinges.
I notices that once you get the GWS glue on the hinges they soften up pretty fast.
By the time I get to the last hinge on the row, it is no longer stiff enough to slide into the slot in the foam.

Now I cut the slots, then using a wooden toothpick I push glue down into the slot.
Push the hinge in and let them sit for a while till the glue has dried.

Works on balsa too.

Paul
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Old 02-10-2009, 05:51 PM
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Here I go again: I use Gorilla glue (GG) in slots I cut in the foam with an X-acto knife (#10 I believe- you know the triangular one?). The elevator, rudder, and aileron tabs are all little rectangles cut from an old floppy disk (3.5" or 5.25"- it doesn't matter). Crack that bad boy open and lift the disk off the metal hub in the middle. Use those nice sharp little Fiskars scissors from Target, Michaels, etc. to cut similar sized mylar hinges. Dry fit ALL of your hinges before you put glue on them. I use a toothpick (hmm, Paul will think I am copying) to spread a light coat of GG on the end going into the control surface and slide it in. When that dries, line up your rudder, elevator, aileron, flaps, whatever and put GG on them (i.e. hinges) prior to sticking the entire shmear into the wing, V-stab, H-stab, etc. They are tougher than tough. Don't wet the Gorilla Glue and you can carefully hack it with the tip of the X-acto if it foams out too much (it won't). I can't video this one Kev- sorry!:o

Last edited by Voyager2lcats; 02-14-2009 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:47 PM
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Default Hinges In Foam

Hi Kev, Here's one more method/adhesive for you;
When hinging foam surfaces, I use epoxy, the "30 Minute" type. But it mixes a little thick...so...
Prepare all surfaces, slots, hinges ready. Have a couple round tapered toothpicks handy. Dry-fit everything.
Take a thin plastic lid (like margarine, cream cheese, coffee, etc) and place it on top of your coffee cup, or a cup of hot water.
Mix epoxy on the lid. The heat will turn it to the consistency of water, but also accellerates the curing time. Like to 10 minutes.
Using a toothpick, spread each hinge slot. Drip epoxy into the slot, slide hinge in, take toothpick out. Repeat for each hinge slot.
When one set (like the entire elevator) are dry, repeat for the stabilizer side, joining surfaces.
Let harden. Done, and I've never had a hinge pull out using this method!
Good Luck!
Ron
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:21 AM
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Twmaster
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And here I am a big ol' hypocrite... I just assembled the fuse on a GWS Funny Park. I used Titebond. Actually I am out of GWS glue. The tube I had solidified.
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:59 PM
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Hello again folks
Has anyone got any experience of using "UHU POR" ON a Multiplex Elapor Foam model of an Easy Cub? any advice would be greatly appreciated, I am new to building foam models and do not like using epoxies or super glues as I am allergic to them.
Thanks all the best, John.
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:06 AM
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CHELLIE
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Originally Posted by murphy View Post
Hello again folks
Has anyone got any experience of using "UHU POR" ON a Multiplex Elapor Foam model of an Easy Cub? any advice would be greatly appreciated, I am new to building foam models and do not like using epoxies or super glues as I am allergic to them.
Thanks all the best, John.
Hi John try Gorilla Glue, its very very strong, its best to use CA, but i understand your condition, gorilla glue expands, so use in thin coats, i also cover the joint with clear tape, untill its done drying, to prevent it from foaming up over the joint, try on a scrap piece of foam first, hope that helps, Chellie
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:08 AM
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CHELLIE
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I Like sniffing the GWS glue when building and I use Epoxy for my GWS builds Ok Just Kidding about the sniffing GWS glue Take care, Chellie
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