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Old 10-20-2017, 06:07 PM   #1
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Default Build Log - Avenger electric

I just thought I would start my build log of the "Avenger" based on the Roy Looyenga design sport model featured in the December 1981 issue of RCModeler magazine.

The Avenger is a shoulder wing design, 58 inch span model with tricycle landing gear. The original design was for a .45-.60 glow engine with a ready to fly weight of 88 ounces and a wing loading of 19 oz/sq. ft.

Obviously, my slightly modified version will be electric powered on 6s (2 X 3s in series) and incorporates flaps not on the original. I will also be making my first attempt at the "soda bottle" method of creating a plastic motor cowling over a plug. Other design changes to accommodate the electric power, or to make building easier (almost everything will be tab and slot fit) were made as well.

Since I am admittedly terrible at hand cutting parts from scratch, I've redrawn the entire airframe in CAD and have sent those files out to National Balsa to get a quote on having a laser cut short kit made.

The majority of the components (hardware and radio gear) are sitting in a box, with the exception of the main landing gear wheels, which are currently on backorder. They won't prevent me from starting the build, though. I will be making a detailed list of every piece of hardware and gear I use in the build, and, once it has been determined that everything fits as I hope it will (fingers crossed - it hasn't happened yet!) or corrections to errors have been made in CAD, and the danged thing actually flies, the cut files for the short kit and components list will be offered to anyone who wishes to build their own.

I will make every attempt to slow myself down as I build in order to document each step with instructions and photos, which often times takes longer than the actual build step itself. (I'll admit that the optional armament under the wings have already been made, but that's #1-optional, and #2-really easy!)

It will take some time once the quote for the short kit comes through to actually start building, but I just wanted to put out a "tease" of what's to come.


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Old 10-21-2017, 03:43 AM   #2
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Watching with interest. I've been thinking about doing an old school pattern ship in electric.

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Old 10-21-2017, 03:05 PM   #3
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Subscribed!

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Old 10-21-2017, 10:45 PM   #4
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Yep, I'm watching this one!

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Old 10-24-2017, 03:25 PM   #5
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It has "officially" begun. After a slight mix up with the laser cutter (I forgot to mention to them that all dimensions were in millimeters, not inches, and they emailed me asking if I really wanted a sheet of 1/8" birch ply, 50 feet by 25 feet! It's actually 24" X 12" - 600 X 300 mm) I obtained a quote and sent payment to have the short kit cut. I also ordered stock needed (sheet balsa, aileron stock, basswood spars) due to the limited stock on hand at the "local" (i.e.: an hour away each way) hobby shop.

Off to the UPS Store to have full sized, single sheet build plans printed, one set for wing building, one for the fuselage and tail feathers. Once those are in hand, it's time to clean off the building board, put down a set of plans, and cover with a sheet protector and wax paper. Line up my tools and glues and get the camera set up on the tripod to document the build.


Attached Files
File Type: pdf Wing Plan.pdf (46.6 KB, 26 views)
File Type: pdf Fuselage Plan.pdf (93.2 KB, 25 views)

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Old 10-24-2017, 05:33 PM   #6
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Who are you using as your Laser cutter?
I have many plans that I might like to get cut, if I can figure out which one to build.

Dave R, KI7MTA Proud PGR rider.
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Old 10-24-2017, 06:56 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
Who are you using as your Laser cutter?
I have many plans that I might like to get cut, if I can figure out which one to build.
I've sent all my projects to National Balsa. I've been very happy with the quality of the materials provided.

All parts have to be laid out according to material (type, thickness) and have to fit their stock sizes (12X24, 3X36, etc.) Their website explains pretty much everything.

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Old 10-25-2017, 05:27 PM   #8
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:02 PM   #9
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Well, this isn't a good start.

I was informed by National Balsa that my package, containing all the laser cut parts and stock, was destroyed by UPS. It never even got to my house. They are cutting a new kit for me (UPS is picking up this tab) and will resend. Slight delay in the start.

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Old 11-04-2017, 02:43 AM   #10
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That's a bummer, but great of National Balsa to handle all of the hassle with UPS.

I finally opened your plans and noticed your elevator halves... Are you planning on two elevator servos or splicing the control rod out to both sides?

The squared off rib for mounting the wing is interesting as well. Not something I've seen before.

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Old 11-04-2017, 03:44 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
That's a bummer, but great of National Balsa to handle all of the hassle with UPS.

I finally opened your plans and noticed your elevator halves... Are you planning on two elevator servos or splicing the control rod out to both sides?

The squared off rib for mounting the wing is interesting as well. Not something I've seen before.

Steve
I actually had the same question about the elevators, and got in contact with the original designer! He said he just joined the two halves with a wire connector. Even though the geometry isn't correct, it's not enough to affect the operation at the amount of deflection used. I've mocked it up with foamboard, and I think it'll be fine.

The squared off rib is something I used when I designed the Snafuey, and Snafuey II. I've found it makes joining the wing halves easier, and stronger, as well as providing an excellent method for bolting the wing down. You'll see in the build log that the center of the wing is actually it's own structure, with formers that the main spars, leading edge, and trailing edges are epoxied to. Makes setting your dihedral easier as well. That was not part of the original plans, by the way.

The new laser cut parts should be arriving Monday.

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Old 11-07-2017, 12:37 AM   #12
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Default The official start

My laser kit and supplies arrived this evening in excellent condition by UPS. Everything looks great.

I decided to build the wing assembly first. Tonight I'll sort out all the parts sheets, get the plan sheet laid out on the building bench, gather up all my adhesives and tools, and get a notepad ready to jot down my steps.


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Old 11-07-2017, 03:16 PM   #13
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Default Left Wing Assembly

Lay the wing plan sheet out on your building board. It's okay if you want to cut the plans into sections (left wing, right wing, wing center) if it suits you. Cover the plans with a sheet protector (you can use the clear backing sheet from Monocote rolls). I add an extra protective layer of wax paper, as I've found CA will stick to the clear sheet at times. (It sticks to wax paper too, but is easy to sand off bits of wax paper if needed.)

Locate the parts you'll need for the wing: (6) R1 ribs, (3) R2 ribs, (2) 3/8" square basswood main spars, (2) leading / trailing edges [they are identical and located on the 1/4" balsa sheet], (1) aileron servo plate (lite ply), (1) flap pivot plate (ply), (1) wingtip (1/4" balsa sheet), and (1) Estes BT-5 rocket body tube.

Take one of the LE / TE pieces and mark the centerline of the rear (non-notched) edge. This will make hinge installation easier later on. This now becomes the trailing edge.

Cut the 3/8" square basswood spars to length. (Save the leftovers, you'll use them later.) Cross-pin one basswood spar over the plans. Slide the R1 and R2 ribs over the spar according to the plan. The build tabs all face downward and assure a straight wing. Don't glue anything yet.

Install the leading and trailing edges. Make sure the ribs fit fully into the slots. Install the upper spar. Using a square, make sure the wing leading and trailing edges are squared, and all ribs are straight and square upright. Use a straight piece of wood or metal (not too heavy) at the top of the ribs over the build tabs to keep them flush to the table, and apply a few drops of CA to all joints.

Slide the flap mount plate through the R2 ribs and glue into position as per plans. Use Sig Bond or epoxy here.

Measure and cut the Estes BT-5 rocket body tube, slide through the holes in the R2 ribs per plan, and apply a drop of CA to each joint. The tube provides some additional rigidity to the wing, and provides an easy way to snake the aileron servo leads through the wing. HINT: save the leftover parts of the tubes, if you're planning on making armament!

When the glue dries, unpin the wing from the board, check and re-glue all joints. The "build tabs" on the bottom of the wing ribs can now be snapped off, and the nubs sanded off.


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File Type: jpg DSC_2799.jpg (329.2 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2800.jpg (671.2 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2801.jpg (666.2 KB, 94 views)

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Old 11-07-2017, 10:38 PM   #14
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Default Left Wing Assembly continued

Glue the wingtip in place. It lines up with the leading and trailing edges. Make sure it fits square to the end rib. Use scrap 1/8" balsa to make triangular braces as shown.

Cut two sections of leftover 3/8" square basswood to the same length as the side of the aileron mount plate (with the small holes). Glue these to the bottom of the wing ribs in the position shown on the plans. They should be glued flush to the rear of the lower main spar, and even with the bottom of the rib. Use clamps to hold them in place until dry.

Cut pieces of 1/16" X 3" balsa sheets to fit between the ribs, from the inner rib to one bay past the aileron plate mount. The grain should run vertically in the wing. Glue these shear webs to the front edge of the main spars and let dry.

Cut a piece of 1/8" balsa 1/2" wide to fit between the two ribs, and glue to the rear of the basswood, even with the bottom of the ribs. This will provide an area for the covering to secure to when the wing is covered.

Cut two pieces of 1/16" X 4" balsa sheet to the width of the wing between the inner and outer ribs. Carefully bend the sheeting over the ribs between the leading edge and rear of the spar. Mark the distance and cut to the correct width. Use a sanding block to taper one edge at about a 45 degree angle. This will assure a tight fit to the leading edge with no gaps. Hold the sheet against the leading edge and use a drop of CA to 'tack' it in place near each rib. Then bend it over the ribs to the spar and glue into place with CA. Add a drop or two of CA along the leading edge between the ribs.

Use the same 'tack' procedure on the other side of the wing. You will not be able to use CA to glue the rest in place, because you won't be able to access the inner part of the structure. Instead, use some Sig Bond (or equivalent) and apply carefully along the edge of the ribs and spar. Bend the balsa sheeting and use pins and rubber bands to hold it in place until the glue dries.

Measure and cut a piece of 1/16" X 3" balsa sheet to the width between the inner and outer ribs at the trailing edge. Cut it into four 3/4" wide strips (save two for the other half of the wing.) Sand a taper at one edge at about a 15 deg angle for a tight fit against the trailing edge. Use small pins to hold the strips in place, flush to the rear edge of the trailing edge, and apply CA to glue them into place.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_2802.jpg (588.3 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2803.jpg (576.8 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2804.jpg (605.6 KB, 86 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2805.jpg (603.1 KB, 86 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2806.jpg (643.7 KB, 89 views)

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Old 11-08-2017, 02:34 AM   #15
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Default Left Wing Assembly part 3

Cap strips are added to some of the ribs. Measure and cut 1/16" X 1/4" strips of balsa and glue them to the top and bottom of the ribs as shown!

On the top of the wing, cap strips are centered over the ribs from rib #4 (counting out from wing inner end) to the rib next to the outer end. On the end (outermost) rib, the cap strip is glued with the edge even with the outer edge of the rib.

On the bottom of the wing, you have a decision to make. If you are NOT going to use the optional armament (missle mounts under the wing), then cap from rib #4 to the outer end of the wing. IMPORTANT! The outermost cap strip is glued even to the edge of the outermost rib as done on the top of the wing. The cap strips on the ribs on either side of the aileron servo mounting area are glued so that their edges are even with the edge of the rib, and neither one goes inside the ribs where the plate will mount.

If you are going to use the optional armament (as I will be) then cap the outermost rib in the same manner as above, and cap from rib #5 (from the inner end) out. The edge of the cap of rib #5 is even with the edge of #5 rib, and does not go inside the area where the aileron plate will mount.



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Old 11-08-2017, 02:42 PM   #16
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Default Left Wing Assembly - last step

Use a 24" sanding bar to sand the leading edge to a smooth, rounded shape. Lightly sand the outer edge of the wingtip to round them slightly.

Move the plans so you will be building a right wing and follow the same steps. After the right wing is complete, we'll move on to the center wing box build, joining the wing halves, final sheeting, aileron and flap installation, servo and linkage installation.


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Old 11-09-2017, 05:40 PM   #17
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Default Wing Box (center section) assembly

Locate the following parts:

1/8th ply: (2) side ribs
(1 each) LE Brace, Spar Brace, TE Brace
(2) upper wing mount plates (longer)
(2) lower wing mount plates (shorter)
Lite ply: Flap Servo Mount

Start by gluing the wing mount plates together. Use two 15/64" drill bits (smooth end) to align the holes. Apply a thin layer of glue (Sig Bond) to one side of the lower plate (the shorter one) and clamp it to the upper plate. Let the glue dry, then repeat on the other ones.
When both are completely dry, enlarge the holes with a drill to 17/64". (I know, I should just design the holes to the proper size. There's a reason I don't you'll see later on, and it's laziness on my part!)

Test fit the parts. Everything should fit snugly. If not, LIGHTLY sand as needed. You don't want any slop in the fit here. Check to make sure the LE, Spar, and TE braces are square to the rib sides (if the servo plate fits snugly, they should be.) When satisfied that everything fits as it's supposed to, take it apart and reassemble using glue this time. Use some clamps or rubber bands to keep things together tightly while the glue dries.

Confession time: the wing mount plates are identical on the wing box and fuselage. For some reason, I forgot to take that into account when I laid out the cut files, so I only had two sets of each. Luckily, I realized that, and the parts are straight and square, so I was able to "scratch" another set from extra ply I had. This has been corrected on the cut files and plans.


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File Type: jpg DSC_2814 Wing Box parts.jpg (864.4 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2815 gluing wing mount block upper and lower.jpg (662.3 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2816 Trial fitting before glue.jpg (661.2 KB, 65 views)

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Old 11-09-2017, 10:13 PM   #18
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Default Assembling the Wing Halves

CAREFULLY test fit both wing halves to the wing box. The spars, leading edge, and trailing edge are all a very snug fit. Some light sanding of the openings in the side ribs of the wing box will be required. You can also sand a small, tapered end onto the spars and edges to facilitate the fit. Work slowly here! Keep the wing as straight as possible. If things are too tight, remove and sand some additional material. Fit both wings at once and check to see that they fit all the way in without the spars or edges hitting first. If they do, trim a little off with a saw. Make a mental note of where the parts fit in relation to the braces in the wing box.

Mix up some 30 minute epoxy, and apply a light coat to the front of the leading edge brace, and rear of the spar and trailing edge braces where they will seat. Slide in your wing halves. My building board is not wide enough to set the dihedral, so I use my wife's new quartz island top (it's best to put down some wax paper first, and even better to do this when she's not home! ) Use 1/2" thick pieces of wood under each wing at the outmost rib to set to the specified dihedral of the original plans. Apply a weight to the middle of the wing box, and let everything harden.


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File Type: jpg DSC_2817 test fitting wings.jpg (578.3 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2818 wings assembled.jpg (896.2 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2819 dihedral blocks.jpg (804.3 KB, 66 views)

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Old 11-10-2017, 05:16 PM   #19
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Default Flap servo and flap pivot installation

Install the Hitec HS-225BB servo to the flap servo mount plate. Note that the servo is installed from the bottom of the wing. I prefer using Dubro socket head servo mounting screws (#893) over the supplied screws.

Use a #50, or 5/64" drill bit to enlarge the holes in the flap pivot mounts. Assemble the 90 degree nylon bellcrank assemblies (Dubro # 167). You'll notice that there is a 'flange' on one side of the bellcrank at the pivot assembly. Slide the provided 2-56 machine screw through the included metal washer, through the bellcrank (with the flange away from the head of the screw), and the metal pivot. This differs from how the instructions show it, but it gives you a little additional clearance by raising it off the mount a bit. You should be able to screw the assembly into the mount. The machine screw will cut its own threads. Don't install the lock washer and nut just yet.

Temporarily connect the servo to the channel you'll be using for flaps (in my case, Ch 5) and with the flap switch in the UP position, allow the servo to center. Position the servo arm so that it sits at a 45 degree angle from the centerline of the servo.

Install a 2-56 Kwik-Link (Dubro #109) onto the threaded end of a control rod (Dubro #801) [Option: use Dubro #185 Kwik-Link with 12" 2-56 rod]. Thread it about 1/2 way onto the end to allow for adjustment either way.

Slide the rod through the slots in the center and R2 ribs. The Kwik-Link should be on the servo end. Position the bellcranks as shown (about a 45 degree angle) and mark the rod over the outermost hole in the bellcrank arm. Remove the rod and use a pair of Z-Bend pliers to put a Z bend at the mark. Install the bent end of the rod through the bellcrank (the hole will have to be drilled out to fit) and feed the assembly back into the wing. Install the machine screw again and, with the servo in the UP position, check to see that the holes in the (yet unused) bellcrank arms are centered over the rear edge of the mount. Adjust the Kwik-Link as needed. This is important, as it will keep the amount of deflection of each flap even.


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Old 11-10-2017, 06:40 PM   #20
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Default

When I built our kitchen cabinets my wife was puzzled as to why I was spending so much time getting the 3' by 7' island perfectly level and true in all directions.

She didn't realize till later that I had plans for it in the back of my head.

Dave R, KI7MTA Proud PGR rider.
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:00 PM   #21
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Default Installing flaps

Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
When I built our kitchen cabinets my wife was puzzled as to why I was spending so much time getting the 3' by 7' island perfectly level and true in all directions.

She didn't realize till later that I had plans for it in the back of my head.


Cut two 7" sections of 5/16" X 1 1/2" X 36" aileron stock, one from each piece of stock. (Do NOT cut both from one piece, or you won't have enough left for two ailerons!) I got my aileron stock from National Balsa (ordered it when I ordered my laser cutting). Note how it is shaped! If set one way, the leading edge will be 90 degrees from the flat. Flip it over, and you'll see it's not. You're going to be gluing the hinges (Dubro #116) to the long edge that forms the 90 degree angle (bottom of the first photo.) Measure in about 1" and 1 5/8" from the end and use a pencil to make marks. Use some epoxy, apply CAREFULLY so as not to get any in the hinge joint, and apply to the flaps between your marks. Allow to cure, and check that the hinge moves freely.

Using masking tape, position the flaps to the inboard part of the trailing edge, allowing 1/4" clearance from the inner rib. Apply epoxy to the hinges (same precaution) and glue them to the trailing edge sheeting and let cure.

Thread a Kwik-Link halfway to the threaded end of a control rod. Attach that to the outermost hole of a Nylon "T-Style" Control Horn (Dubro #237) and use the rod to position the horn on the flap directly behind the outer hole in the bellcrank arm. Make certain the holes in the horn line up directly over the flap/trailing edge joint, and mark where the bolt holes will be drilled. Drill holes and install the control horn to the flap. Now, with the servo in the zero flap position (full up) measure where the Z bend will be made. NOTE: you're going to have to put a single bend in the rod near the bellcrank to get it to fit. Mark the rod and create the Z bend. Unclip the Kwik-Link from the control horn, install in the bellcrank, and adjust the link until the flap is correct. Repeat on the other flap.

Remove the servo arm and check the direction and operation of the servo by connecting it to the Rx, and testing your flap switch. If the servo must be reversed, do it, or the servo will jam when you try to raise flaps from the no flap position. Once you have that right, reattach the arm and test the flap operation. If you're happy with the way everything works, install the lock washers and nuts on the screws that hold the bellcranks in place. A little dab of threadlocker here is a good idea.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_2821 90 deg corner.jpg (315.8 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2822 not square.jpg (432.7 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2823 Hinges on flap.jpg (454.7 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2824 Zero flaps.jpg (969.3 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2825 Half flaps.jpg (956.2 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2826 Full flaps.jpg (948.6 KB, 65 views)

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Old 11-11-2017, 02:47 PM   #22
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Old 11-11-2017, 04:21 PM   #23
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Default Wing sheeting and Ailerons

Using 1/16" X 4" balsa, measure, cut and glue sheeting onto the bottom of the wing from the aileron servo bay (4th rib out) to the center rib, flush to the leading edge sheeting. (NOTE: if you are NOT planning on using armament, you can sheet one rib bay less.) Use a measured piece of 1/16" X 3" balsa to complete the sheeting to the trailing edge, marking and cutting a slot for the flap linkage to pass through. Set the aileron servo mount plates in place, and add a 1/16" balsa strip from the sheeting to the rib cap strip behind the plate.

Use 1/16" X 4" balsa and 1/16" X 3" balsa to sheet the upper portion of the wing from the inner rib to the 3rd rib out.

Measure and cut the 5/16" X 1 1/2" aileron stock for ailerons. The 90 degree angle (remember that?) should be towards the wing bottom. Leave about 1/8" clearance between the flap and aileron, and mark the outer end so that the angle of the aileron continues the angle of the wingtip.

Use masking tape to hold the aileron in place while marking where the hinges (Great Planes 3/4" X 1" Ultra Grip CA Hinges, # GPMQ3950 or equivalent) will be installed. Remove the aileron, mark the center of the leading edge with a center marking tool, and slot the ailerons and trailing edges for the hinges. [I use a Great Planes Precision Hinge Marking Tool - GPMR4005 - to mark the centers, and a Great Planes Slot Machine - GPMR4010 - to cut the slots. I highly recommend both.] Sand the leading edge round with a 24" sanding bar, install the hinges, and attach the aileron to the wing. Make sure you flex it up and down to check for any interference. If okay, apply CA to set the hinges.

NOTE: I know some will say "cover first, then hinge". I've done it both ways. I think with a glow powered model, it's important to cover every bit of wood due to the grime in the exhaust. With electric, I don't think it's as important, and not that much more difficult.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_2827 lower sheeting.jpg (775.7 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2828 added strip.jpg (918.3 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2829 upper sheeting.jpg (762.3 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2830 marking hinge points.jpg (746.4 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2831 Aileron installed.jpg (721.4 KB, 58 views)

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Old 11-11-2017, 04:58 PM   #24
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Default Wing - fine details

Locate the center wing box lower trim pieces on one sheet of 1/8" balsa laser cut parts. Glue into place. When dry, you may have to sand a little to make the edges even with the center rib.

Sheet the top center with 1/16" balsa. Make a cutout for the flap servo and lead. When dry, use a 1/4" diameter drill inserted through the holes in the plywood wing mounts on the bottom side of the center wing section, and CAREFULLY drill through the upper sheeting. Enlarge these holes to the diameter of an Estes BT-20 rocket body tube. Cut the tube into four shorter sections, and, making sure that they are centered over the wing bolt holes, glue them into place. When the glue dries, use an X-Acto blade or singe edge razor blade to cut the tubes flush with the sheeting. Fine sandpaper will finish the smoothing process. The tubes allow you to drop in the Great Planes 1/4-20 X 2" Nylon Wing Bolts (GPMQ4402) easily into the mounting holes later when attaching the wing.

Aileron servos are mounted to the plates in one of two ways: externally, using the rubber bushings with inserts and servo mounting screws, or internally, with only the upper part of the servo showing (a bit cleaner look.) To mount them internally, I use 4-40 X 1/2" screws, washers, and lock nuts and discard the bushing inserts. You'll have to enlarge the four screw holes in the mounting plate to insert the screws. Feed the servo leads through the rocket tubes and into the center box. From there, you can either use a Y-lead, or connect servo lead extensions if you want to set up aileron differential with two channels on your radio. Drill pilot screw holes into the aileron plate mounts (the 3/8" square basswood) and use 2-56 button head sheet metal screws to hold them in. (NOTE: sorry I don't have part numbers on the 4-40 and 2-56 hardware. I buy them in bulk, since I tend to use - and lose - them a lot.)

Follow the same procedure as the flap linkage installation to install the aileron control horns and connecting rods. Congratulations, your wing assembly is now 99% complete. Final sanding and covering is done much later.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_2832 lower trim.jpg (687.2 KB, 62 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2833 lower trim installed.jpg (549.8 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2834 top center sheeting.jpg (615.5 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2835 aileron servo mounted.jpg (797.8 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2836 Hold down bolt tubes rough.jpg (588.3 KB, 56 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_2837 hold down bolt tubes finished.jpg (698.9 KB, 56 views)

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Old 11-18-2017, 04:05 PM   #25
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Default An interesting development indeed!

Well now.....

It appears as though UPS did NOT destroy the first shipment of the laser cut short kit as reported.

My wife just saw a message from the new owners of the house we sold in MA. (Unfortunately, it was sent 2 weeks ago.) It seems the package was sent by National Balsa to my old address in error. I am hoping he is still in possession, and trying to arrange to have the package shipped here where I can inspect it.

If it's in good shape, there may be a laser cut short kit of this plane available for cheap money once I determine everything fits!

Anyone interested? Let me remind you that this will be a SHORT KIT, and there are still materials (components, balsa, etc) that have to be purchased to complete the project. And, no guarantee I can even get it. :-(

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