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What's a good, inexpensive motor for a GWS Warbird?

Old 12-04-2008, 11:14 PM
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Lieutenant Loughead
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Default What's a good, inexpensive motor for a GWS Warbird?

Hey guys,

I'm looking for a good, inexpensive (Hobby City prices) motor for a GWS Spitfire.

I don't need a lot of thrust (maybe about 12 ounces would work just fine), but I'm looking for some decent speed (40-50 mph). I want to keep my amp draw at or under 20 amps.

Right now I'm using a BP-21, with an APC 8x8E prop, and a 3s LiPo -- I got some good performance with this setup, but the BP-21 has some issues:
  • APC prop bends the prop shaft on belly landings.
  • BP-21 set screw doesn't hold the shaft mount to the motor mount well (it's always loose).
  • As a result of the loose motor/motor mount connection, the motor spins in the mount, and pulls the wires out of the motor (motor damage).
So, does Hobby City make something similar to the BP-21? I've been looking at the TowerPro 2408-21, but I'm afraid it might draw too many amps on a 3s LiPo with an APC 8x8E prop... :o

I also like the idea of having a "stiffer" prop shaft -- one that won't get bent every time I land...

Any ideas?
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
Hey guys,

I'm looking for a good, inexpensive (Hobby City prices) motor for a GWS Spitfire.

I don't need a lot of thrust (maybe about 12 ounces would work just fine), but I'm looking for some decent speed (40-50 mph). I want to keep my amp draw at or under 20 amps.

Right now I'm using a BP-21, with an APC 8x8E prop, and a 3s LiPo -- I got some good performance with this setup, but the BP-21 has some issues:
  • APC prop bends the prop shaft on belly landings.
  • BP-21 set screw doesn't hold the shaft mount to the motor mount well (it's always loose).
  • As a result of the loose motor/motor mount connection, the motor spins in the mount, and pulls the wires out of the motor (motor damage).
So, does Hobby City make something similar to the BP-21? I've been looking at the TowerPro 2408-21, but I'm afraid it might draw too many amps on a 3s LiPo with an APC 8x8E prop... :o

I also like the idea of having a "stiffer" prop shaft -- one that won't get bent every time I land...

Any ideas?
HC'sTowerPro's all have 3mm shafts , I like these and use um on my black left-overs twin, Don't use the Brake on your ESC and it'll be kinder on those rascally 3mm shafts, I've strait'in more of um than I care to remember, not fun but not hard to do, get some Compression hub type prop adp's so when they get to screw'ie on ya you can saw the shaft off at the tread-line and put a adp on & pesto change'o you back in bizz! your bub, steve


TP Motor/ESC/Prop Combo

Motor: BM2409-12T
For motor Spec, please click below;
www.unitedhobbies.com/unitedhobbies/store/tp_motor.html

BESC: 25A (programmable)
Current: 25-30A
Voltage: 6-12V
BEC 2-3 Cell Lipo
Size: 45x38x10mm 24.5grams

Propeller: 8x3.8
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:34 PM
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CHELLIE
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
Hey guys,

I'm looking for a good, inexpensive (Hobby City prices) motor for a GWS Spitfire.

I don't need a lot of thrust (maybe about 12 ounces would work just fine), but I'm looking for some decent speed (40-50 mph). I want to keep my amp draw at or under 20 amps.


Right now I'm using a BP-21, with an APC 8x8E prop, and a 3s LiPo -- I got some good performance with this setup, but the BP-21 has some issues:
  • APC prop bends the prop shaft on belly landings.
  • BP-21 set screw doesn't hold the shaft mount to the motor mount well (it's always loose).
  • As a result of the loose motor/motor mount connection, the motor spins in the mount, and pulls the wires out of the motor (motor damage).
So, does Hobby City make something similar to the BP-21? I've been looking at the TowerPro 2408-21, but I'm afraid it might draw too many amps on a 3s LiPo with an APC 8x8E prop... :o

I also like the idea of having a "stiffer" prop shaft -- one that won't get bent every time I land...

Any ideas?
Hi the turnigy 2830 is a great little motor, that we use a lot, with a 8x6 prop, it will give you very good performance, its best to use a prop saver and SF prop, with motors that have a 3mm shaft, the 2408-21, is a great motor, but you have to do some things to them to help them live first is to, epoxy the motor wires to the windings, so they dont vibrate and break loose, then, epoxy the radial or stick mount on the motor, so it does not get loose and spin in the mount and break the wires, i use jb weld for the motor to mount, works great, also on the 2408-21, cut the motor shaft, with the prop saver on it, so that the end of the motor shaft, sticks out about 1/8" outside of the prop saver, and the prop saver is pushed all the way back, grind some flat spots on the motor shaft where the prop saver screws touch the motor shaft at, that will keep the prop saver from spining on the motor shaft, and use some blue lock tight on the prop saver screws, hope that helps, Chellie
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Old 12-04-2008, 11:36 PM
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HXT 28-30B
Kurt Stanley
Perfect motor for small foam warbirds.
Fast with 9x6 APC-E . More thrust for acro with the 10x5 or 10x6.
3s-1550mah, 25amp TowerPro esc.

Great for ROG or hand launch takeoffs.
TR 28-30B 14A 1050Kv GREAT MOT
Jose Mesquita
Very good quality little motor. On the moment, pulling a 700gr foamie Extra 300 like a rocket with a 9x6 propeller. With some hard landings and a severe nose crash, is still running , a little more noisy from the bearings, but with the same power. Great motor.Thanks Hobbycity

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Old 12-05-2008, 12:16 AM
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Guy,

Would using the same mount James uses (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31473) solve the problem of the motor spinning in the mount? I think, if I understand what you mean correctly, this would solve that problem, if you can make it fit your application.
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by gfdengine204 View Post
Guy,

Would using the same mount James uses (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31473) solve the problem of the motor spinning in the mount? I think, if I understand what you mean correctly, this would solve that problem, if you can make it fit your application.
rascally old Grub screws'!!!! bub, steve
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by gfdengine204 View Post
Guy,

Would using the same mount James uses (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31473) solve the problem of the motor spinning in the mount? I think, if I understand what you mean correctly, this would solve that problem, if you can make it fit your application.
Hi Kev the BP21 / 2408-21 have a radial mount that can be removed and a stick mount, that can replace the radial mount, these motors are nortorious for spining in the mounts, but that can be fixed by JB weld, on the motor, then slip the mount on and tighten the screws, I informed Jeff at heads up Rc to let people know about this, to prevent the motor from spining in the mount, it has helped alot, hope that helps, Chellie

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...lectric/Detail


MOUNTING OPTIONS: A firewall mount and aluminum stick mount with heat sink are included, along with two prop nuts and a washer. Always check the tightness of all motor set screws and motor mount screws when installing motors. The motor set screws require a 1.5mm Allen wrench.

Some experienced flyers who post on the 'Wattflyer' forums suggest using a little 'JB Weld for metal' to secure the aluminum stick mount to the motor tube. This prevents it from working loose and spinning in the mount. Be very careful not to get any on the shaft and bearing though
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Old 12-05-2008, 02:25 AM
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On the turnigy 2830 motors, the E-Flite stick motor mounts work Great, becareful the screws dont go in to far and touch the windings, i like to use blue lock tight on the mount to motor screws, Hope that helps, Chellie

http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/.../EFLM1915.html

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Old 12-05-2008, 02:32 AM
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Chellie,

Yes, I agree the JB Weld is a good idea. I was just providing an alternative to the blue clamp-style mount. I hate those little buggers.
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:24 PM
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If it makes a difference, on the BP-21 motors I use a small drill bit to slightly tap the shaft on the motor. This way when I tighten the grub screw down, it has a 'pocket' to sit in that will help it from spinning in the mount. I always use blue locktite.

One other thing I did do for one motor was to tap another screw in the mount. I figure 2 screws are better than one.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
TR 28-30B 14A 1050Kv GREAT MOT
Jose Mesquita
Very good quality little motor. On the moment, pulling a 700gr foamie Extra 300 like a rocket with a 9x6 propeller. With some hard landings and a severe nose crash, is still running , a little more noisy from the bearings, but with the same power. Great motor.Thanks Hobbycity

What LiPo (how many cells)? What's the amp draw? What's the prop pitch speed ("Like a rocket" means different things to different people!)?

Originally Posted by Mayday!Mayday! View Post
If it makes a difference, on the BP-21 motors I use a small drill bit to slightly tap the shaft on the motor. This way when I tighten the grub screw down, it has a 'pocket' to sit in that will help it from spinning in the mount. I always use blue locktite.
Thanks for this -- I was thinking the exact same thing, and was just about to post it! (But you beat me to it!)
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
What LiPo (how many cells)? What's the amp draw? What's the prop pitch speed ("Like a rocket" means different things to different people!)?

Thanks for this -- I was thinking the exact same thing, and was just about to post it! (But you beat me to it!)

Hi, Maybe this might help, any lipo 1500mah 20C or bigger will work just fine, and a 30 amp esc, better yet a 40 amp Turnigy ESc because it has a 3 amp bec built into it, keep your amp draw to 15 amps max, hope that helps, Chellie

HXT 28-30B
Kurt Stanley
Perfect motor for small foam warbirds.
Fast with 9x6 APC-E . More thrust for acro with the 10x5 or 10x6.
3s-1550mah, 25amp TowerPro esc.
Great for ROG or hand launch takeoffs.
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Old 12-10-2008, 04:24 PM
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I know this is a little off topic, but I have a GWS slow stick with a speed 400 motor and the prop that came with my E-starter. I only have enough power for a shallow takeoff with this setup. What kind of prop shoud I use?
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Old 12-10-2008, 05:33 PM
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this is the motor I have on my Formosa I, its great as long as you have the extra room for a 450 size...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._23A_Outrunner

I combo this with a 1000mah zippy 3cell pack and a 30amp esc for great performance... you can also use like a 1300 pack without too much weight issues...

with a 9x6 you'll keep it under 20amps... and it will be plenty fast... I believe I run it with a 10x4.7 on my formosa and its right at 20amps...

SK
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by gladtofly View Post
I know this is a little off topic, but I have a GWS slow stick with a speed 400 motor and the prop that came with my E-starter. I only have enough power for a shallow takeoff with this setup. What kind of prop shoud I use?
Hey -- the prop isn't going to help you. The problem you have is that you are using a heavy, brushed motor -- you need to spend $20 and go brushless!

Then, you'll have more power than you know what to do with!
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by gladtofly View Post
I know this is a little off topic, but I have a GWS slow stick with a speed 400 motor and the prop that came with my E-starter. I only have enough power for a shallow takeoff with this setup. What kind of prop shoud I use?
this should help...

motor
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._15A_Outrunner

esc
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...eed_Controller

motor mount
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5135

SK
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ministeve2003 View Post
this is the motor I have on my Formosa I, its great as long as you have the extra room for a 450 size...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._23A_Outrunner

I combo this with a 1000mah zippy 3cell pack and a 30amp esc for great performance... you can also use like a 1300 pack without too much weight issues...

with a 9x6 you'll keep it under 20amps... and it will be plenty fast... I believe I run it with a 10x4.7 on my formosa and its right at 20amps...

SK
Thanks for this! The link gives me all the details I need, including prop to use, amp draw, and measured RPM (from which, I can calculate prop pitch speed).

It looks like I'll be hitting 53 mph with an 8x8 prop, and drawing only 17 amps... That looks like a winner to me... On the other hand, the motor will be sticking out the front of the Spitfire's cowl... :o

I'll probably go ahead and order this one -- but are there any other ideas?
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
Thanks for this! The link gives me all the details I need, including prop to use, amp draw, and measured RPM (from which, I can calculate prop pitch speed).

It looks like I'll be hitting 53 mph with an 8x8 prop, and drawing only 17 amps... That looks like a winner to me... On the other hand, the motor will be sticking out the front of the Spitfire's cowl... :o

I'll probably go ahead and order this one -- but are there any other ideas?
I haven't looked at the spitfire in perticular, but on the formosa and the estarter, (with have almost same cowl) you can cut the stick down a little and fit them perfect...

SK
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:12 PM
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Actually, the wooden stick broke off many moons ago -- the Spitfire has an aircraft plywood firewall mount now.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:49 PM
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A good inexpensive motor for a GWS warbird is probably the old geared speed 400 and ESC you probably have laying in the drawer. Why? They sound great.
If possible, find a gearbox with a bit of gear play, which will really add to the "ic" engine sound effect. As simplistic and practical as outrunners are to use, they don't sound good.

I recently mounted an old geared speed 400 in a HOB Texan kit that's been sitting forever. The larger teeth on the 3:1 pinion and an acceptable amount of gear sclearance really add to the sound effect. Almost as loud as glow, but not annoying as it's lower pitch. Sounds like the real thing.
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:09 PM
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Hey Bill. Believe me when I tell you, I'm a BIG fan of brushless inrunners and gearboxes. I currently fly my GWS P-51, GWS ME-109, and GWS P-38 on brushless inrunners (4100 kv) and Cobri gearboxes... Then again, a brushless inrunner and Cobri gearbox combo costs about $80 -- NOT inexpensive! :o

After 100 flights on my GWS Zero, I did decided to "downgrade" her to a GWS speed 400 with "D" gearbox. She flew just fine for another 100+ flights, but she lacked enough thrust, speed, and flight duration to satisfy me...

Also, Tower Hobbies says the GWS 400 speed motor with "D" gearbox is $14.00 -- that's kind of expensive, when you consider the price of brushless outrunners these days... :o

So, I think the $19.79 Turnigy 2217 brushless outrunner is going to do the trick. (In any event, I've already ordered it, so I'm going to give it a whirl!)
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Old 12-21-2008, 03:25 AM
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An ELE EC28P-L would probably fly the snot out of a GWS warbird. This is the motor I have in my Richmodels Zero and my PT-19. Flys great with a 3S lipo and a GWS 9075 HD prop. You've seen both of them fly. I've had 4 of these motors and they've all been great.

http://64.33.154.92/blackdogrc/brush...ies.jsp#EC28PL
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Old 12-21-2008, 03:51 AM
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Holy smokes -- it's only $12?!

How does the shaft hold up to belly landings? (Does it bend easily?)
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:33 AM
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My Zero is a belly flopper and I haven't so much as broken a prop on it yet. The GWS HD props are pretty flexible so that helps.
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
Hey Bill. Believe me when I tell you, I'm a BIG fan of brushless inrunners and gearboxes. I currently fly my GWS P-51, GWS ME-109, and GWS P-38 on brushless inrunners (4100 kv) and Cobri gearboxes... Then again, a brushless inrunner and Cobri gearbox combo costs about $80 -- NOT inexpensive! :o

After 100 flights on my GWS Zero, I did decided to "downgrade" her to a GWS speed 400 with "D" gearbox. She flew just fine for another 100+ flights, but she lacked enough thrust, speed, and flight duration to satisfy me...

Also, Tower Hobbies says the GWS 400 speed motor with "D" gearbox is $14.00 -- that's kind of expensive, when you consider the price of brushless outrunners these days... :o

So, I think the $19.79 Turnigy 2217 brushless outrunner is going to do the trick. (In any event, I've already ordered it, so I'm going to give it a whirl!)
That's exactly the sound they make, "whirl".
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