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Project: GWS A-10 Warthog EDF Brushless

Old 03-19-2007, 05:57 PM
  #101  
Crash9
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Very Nice Paint job paranioa, I 'll post my CG later when I get home.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:40 AM
  #102  
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did you check that cg, i'm ready for my 1st flight
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Old 03-26-2007, 08:08 PM
  #103  
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Let's try this. Sorry for the confusion. I'm having problems uploading pics. I've just completed my 2nd GWS A-10 and was going to share. I still cannot up load pics, and I used to be able to. So much for letting your wifes (computer wizzz) friend come over and "clean things up" a bit Will keep trying. Your A-10s look great.
Rick

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Old 03-26-2007, 11:14 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by RickAvery View Post
Let's try this
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:29 PM
  #105  
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OK, Sorry for the confusion above. My satillite internet link was on the blink yesterday. Anyway, I've just finished up my 2nd GWS A-10. The 1st one built several years ago was my 1st GWS kit and after beating her up turned out to be such a good flyer I had to have another. I used the same power system, HiMaxx 2015-4200 motors on 3s LiPos. Started with a slope glider kit so the color was up to me. Maidened her last week and she flew right from my hand with minimal trimming needed. The major difference I made with this one is that I made the battery access from the top. The whole canopy, seat and all comes off rendering a very large battery compartment with a huge range of battery movement to facilitate CoG. These are neat albet fragile models. Happy flying.
Rick
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:49 PM
  #106  
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Looks great But mine is still in the box. I think I'm going to go with the 25 turn Feigao's instead of the 28 turn I have now. Like the way you staggered the cut on the hatch. Happy Landings

Ken
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:59 PM
  #107  
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Where did you put your esc's? WHat did you do for air inlets aside from the little hole up front under the nsoe?
I have basically the same motors(mine are the Park 370-4100's which are reported to be the same thing as the himax 2015-4100 with different label).
Where is your cg at?

I flew mine yesterday for the first time off pave runway. Nose was difficult to keep from bouncing and did not want to stick to the ground which made it hard to keep it straight. It took some length to get the plane off the ground and ended up hitting a praire dog hole at the end of the runway which is what actually got the plane into the air cuz it forced the nose up, but I lost the wheel.

Anyway, high rates are a no no on this plane. The ailerons dont seem to move much at all even at 125% high rates, but it requires very minute amounts of input to control. I was surprised.

Landing was hard since I had no nose wheel. Only real damage was the left wing main wheel tore out of the bottom, the nose gun was pushed into the foam some and some minor scrapes. Its fixed now and new nose wheel will be put on.
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:22 PM
  #108  
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kahlog
The primo builders put the ESC's in the fuselage and vent. You don't want any obstruction in the inlet or exaust. I have read MANY pages on the A-10 and almost ready to start my build.

Ken
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Old 03-27-2007, 05:42 PM
  #109  
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If I build another GWS A-10, I'll might put the esc's somewhere else....just to see what difference it makes compared to the one I have now. I put the esc's in the nacelles in the GWS 262 with great results, but had them recessed in the foam somewhat. My A-10 flies ok, so I am not worried about the esc placement right now.

In some cases, actually having a smaller outlet increases the thrust, but it can only be drawn down so much before you lose a lot. Make note of all commercial airliners. The inlet is huge, but the exhaust end is not. The Inlet definitely needs to be about 95-105% of FSA, but the outlet can be down to 80-85%. Lower then that and you lose thrust, but above that you will stay the same or increase some relative to 100%.

Instead of another GWS A-10, I might build the ejf A-10 at 51" wingspan
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:31 PM
  #110  
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Default Inside the Nacelles Works for Me

I ended up putting my ESC in the nacelles after the first few flights I noticed they where getting to hot in the fuse, even with adding the holes for more venting (the ESC shrink wrap started to melt ). I thought about putting them on the underside where the wires go through to the motors but didn't like the results so inside they went. Now they stay very cool. I didn't notice any loss in power other then my flghts where 3min longer . The KMS ESC are very thin so the abstruction is low. But if I had a lot less powerful set up they might not of worked in there . I also curved away some of the foam inside the nacelles so the ESC would fit in with a lower profile . After that I've got 8 more flights and all is well .
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Old 03-27-2007, 06:35 PM
  #111  
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Nice paint Rick, I really like the removable canopy.
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:31 PM
  #112  
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Thanks for the kind word guys. Here are a few more shots of the build. The ESCs are in the fuse behind the nacells. I made some scoops from plastic spoons and mounted the ESCs on each side of the fuse right behind the scoops. I then added a hole at the rear underside of the fuse for an exit. My 1st A-10 had the same set up but with much smaller scoops & they got hot and eventually failed. They were 25amp ESCs. This time I went for 30amp, so they shouldn't have to work so hard or generate as much heat. I laso positioned, & hot glued the wires from the motors in a front to back configuration, presenting the smallest crossection to the air-flow. Happy flying.
Rick
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Old 03-28-2007, 02:55 AM
  #113  
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Default Mine arrived.

This plane is still going strong after all these years. I thought it would be history.

I am going to wrap the body with low tack tape and shoot small amounts of foam insulation into it to make the pieces hold together better. Probably take30 spurts to fill the weak areas. I can always carve out what I need and do not need.

A white Hog.
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Old 03-28-2007, 07:06 PM
  #114  
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You got some great ideas there Rick, thanks for sharing .
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:10 PM
  #115  
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Flew the A-10 again a few days ago. Takes forever to get off the ground. Did several laps around the field and then one of the esc's shut down. Plane became very unstable very fast. Tried to cut throttle, but not fast enough and the thing jerked over due to thrust imbalance and went nose into the ground(on gravel no less).
Inspecting and testing the battery showed it was NOT a LVC problem as the battery still read 11.86v on the wattmeter.
The most likely cause is one of two esc's as they are cheap GWS 15amp brushless and it probably just decided it didnt want to play ball anymore.

I was actually laughing pretty hard after it went down cuz it made a pretty loud smack into the ground and I knew it was toast.

I already have a new airframe and will build a new one, using better esc's and more powerful motors instead of the Park 370-4100's(they work good, but do not provide a lot of top end speed in edf55's)
I will build the new one with the 3900kv GWS bml005a motors(same ones in the ME262) and use e-flite 20amp esc's
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:00 PM
  #116  
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Sorry to hear about your A-10 kahlog, I guess they don't fly on one engine like the fullscale does. I had a similar problem where one motor cut during flight but I manage to drop the thottle and it came back on when I gave it throttle again, got lucky. Keep us posted on your next one....
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Old 04-10-2007, 02:10 AM
  #117  
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They can fly on one motor IF you have working rudders. Mine did not.


The biggest problem with the 15 amp GWS esc's is that once they cut off, you cannot rearm it by throttle stick. You physically have to unplug the battery to reset it. As such, I will never use GWS esc's again on anything but little profiles with props. At least if it cuts out, the thing can glide.

I wanted to get the EJF 52" A-10, but the cost to do it RIGHT was more then I wanted to do because it would have required buying more 4s 2200 extreme batteries($109 each), plus $80 motors x 2 , plus 65+ x 2 for esc's(thunderbird 52 amp or some chinese variant).
All together, thats 269 for the plane and 508 for the other stuff totalling $777. Crap on that. I can buy a KMP ME-109 for 499 and tis a heck of a lot bigger

I already have an F-14 48" ws EDF plane so, so I dont need another plane thats about the same size with the same power setup.
I'll redo the GWS A-10 and be happy and buy the KMP ME-109 and be even happier!
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Old 04-11-2007, 04:04 PM
  #118  
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I just finished my son's gws A-10, turned out to be a "groundhog", instead of a "warthog". I got a epayaya combo kit, 20amp pulso esc's, 3900kv brushless motors, 3s li-po. I did have to add some weight to get the cg correct--I thought two heavy maybe-- I hogged out the inside of the nose, removed the weights and shifted the battery forward. my ready to fly weight is right at 700g. I see that the specs show a weight of 500g---I do not see where I could lose another 200g. Any suggestions

Glen
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Old 04-11-2007, 05:20 PM
  #119  
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Mines at 750grams with battery and it flys awesome.
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:31 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Crash9 View Post
I ended up putting my ESC in the nacelles after the first few flights I noticed they where getting to hot in the fuse, even with adding the holes for more venting (the ESC shrink wrap started to melt ). I thought about putting them on the underside where the wires go through to the motors but didn't like the results so inside they went. Now they stay very cool. I didn't notice any loss in power other then my flghts where 3min longer . The KMS ESC are very thin so the abstruction is low. But if I had a lot less powerful set up they might not of worked in there . I also curved away some of the foam inside the nacelles so the ESC would fit in with a lower profile . After that I've got 8 more flights and all is well .
I've been doing that more often now too. I don't think there is much loss behind the motor, if the ESC is tied neatly in place. Since you would need to route the motor power wires to the motor anyways, and there are 3 wires on a brushless, it doesn't add any weight either. I'm convince all these ESCs are overrated, so they really can use the extra cooling.

For those who have not experienced what Kahloq has, I cut throttle IMMEDIATELY after a motor out on my AR234 twin. The plane was already inverted, and in some bizzarre attitude by that time. If I didn't have the height, it would not have been a save, but its a good glider, so it made it in ok. In fact, it was one of those landings where it was lined up so well, that I had to hit the dirt at the last second.

Bill
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Old 04-12-2007, 01:32 AM
  #121  
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Default Almost finished my first 1.

I reduced weight here and there to come out at 12 1/4 oz with 1--2205 engine and 8 AAA 700 mah nimh cells. A E M . My first aileron wing job. Took forever to figure out how to do it with a rigid steel wire flex setup to eliminate all slop.

The 2205 does 10 oz and 60 mph static test according to GWS table with the motor.

I did not know the newer GWS ESC's resetted on the ground.
Thanks Kahloq.
Lucky I only bought 1 to try out. I have a Corsair, P-38 and the A-10.The A-10 gets the GWS 25 amp. I bought.

Who make a ESC for the GWS 2208's that is cheap BUT resettable in the air ? I will need 3 units of 15 to 20 amps.

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2007, 06:46 PM
  #122  
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Thanks Crash, Glad to know I am in the ballpark with the weight, We will try and fly againthis weekend -THANKS!!
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:33 PM
  #123  
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Good luck on the maiden cosmonot, and let us know how it goes .
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:50 AM
  #124  
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well i got back from a 'day o flyn' i flew the A-10 twice.

i flew great, and looked great in the air! haha at 45% power it sounds like a pod racer! At full power it sounds great will i nice hummm....

i'm how going to finish off the cockpit and add my pilot....... my friend shot a video i'll get it posted soon.

oh and i broke the horz on landing, as i was not using landing gear, i ended up glassing it w/ cloth. should be stronger now.
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:05 AM
  #125  
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I'm thinking about using wheels just out of the pods a bit like lots of other builders do.
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