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Flying Styro Me-262!

Old 07-21-2006, 11:48 PM
  #51  
Bill G
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Originally Posted by easytiger View Post
Something else...it says in the instructions that parts are available. This will be a big help, previously it was impossible to get FS parts.
That would be a topic of interest to me. I wonder if Hobby Lobby will carry the replacement parts. I could see buying a fuse, with plans to scratch build the rest, and/or other similar schemes. I may be immediately interested in the nacelles also. Nice parts.
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Old 07-22-2006, 12:36 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by JackD View Post
ET,

Can you show us a picture of the radio and ESC's installation?
Where are the ESC's? in the wings/nacelles or in the fuse? are they easily removable?

Thanks
Jack
The ESCs are in the nacelles, above the ducting, below the wing. You could also place them in the ducting behind the fans. Or, Mike Hines suggested, cut open the heat-shrink to expose the heat sink, and mount the esc's onto the ducting itself, with only the heat sinks sticking into the ducting. I did not do that, I do not anticipate the 30a controllers heating up much.
Nothing interesting about the radio install, except I did add a servo for rudder control, right next to the elevator servo, and hinged the rudder using the rolling technique shown on the HL website. I like having rudder, just adds another dimension to flying.
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Old 07-22-2006, 01:12 AM
  #53  
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ET,

I don't think they will heat up either. and they will look ugly in the ducting, it is too visible.

Are they easy removable in the place where you put them? I'm wondering if I need to buy more ESC's or if it's easy to swap between planes (I have way too many planes with 25amps ESC's...)

And also agree with you with the rudder, that's definitely the right choice.

Thkx
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Old 07-22-2006, 01:32 AM
  #54  
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Mike was suggesting to just cut a big enough hole for just the heat sinks to project into the ducting...
There is NO access to the ESCs after building, definitely a permanent installation...
I glued the on-off switches on the ESCs with a little uhu-por, so they don't accidentally get switched off in a hard landing or anything...
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:43 AM
  #55  
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WhooHoo! got mine! It's a beautiful kit! nice packing job by H-L no damage at all.
The wheels are huge! This will have no problems at my field.
The fans are sized for 20mm motors only so I think the littlescreamers are a no go with these. I'll have to go with alfaunits if I want to use the outrunners. I got spare alfas (Thanks Randy!) so I'll see how they'll fit up.
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Old 07-22-2006, 05:49 AM
  #56  
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Thanks ET, I'll get the controllers then...
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:41 AM
  #57  
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Okay out of 14pgs of instructions, 4 pages are in ENGLISH!!!!
Will check websites for instruction manual dwnlds.
And it LOOKS like the front or back of the wing saddle area will have to be trimmed for the overly wide wing to fit where it's supposed to.
ET, what about your wing?
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:28 PM
  #58  
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I had to trim a tiny bit off the rear of the wing.
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Old 07-23-2006, 03:56 AM
  #59  
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Thanks, I'll do the same.
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Old 07-23-2006, 04:37 AM
  #60  
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Almost flew it today with St. Martin in Connecticut...but the weather was awful, just howling all day.
I put her down on the wet grass, and she scooted right along, like she would take off, but then she started going in a circle...one of the paper ducts collapsed. Just as well it happened then, because if it happened in flight, it's all over. They provide paper for the ducts, I thought it would be fine, but no way...I will have to replace the ducting with acetate before I fly her.
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Old 07-23-2006, 05:24 AM
  #61  
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Curtis, how did you attach the aft section of the wing to the fuse?

Todd
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:12 AM
  #62  
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Not sure if I understand the question...I just trimmed it slightly, and glued the wing on with 30 minute epoxy. Glue on the wing root fairings, too.

I had some other thoughts today, while driving home from Connecticut in the rain...
If you DID use the stock gear...how would you STEER it? The nosegear is not steerable. I have tried non-steering nosegear on my first Pilot DJ-3. It just did not work. If you got really, really lucky, you would end up heading down the runway in the right direction. So, I'd guess you have to hand-launch and land on the gear. And hope you are going in the right direction as you roll out.
Another thing is this...the early prototypes of the 262 were actually taildraggers. They changed to nosegear because pilot visibility was so bad until the tail came up. But you could do the model with retracts as a taildragger, and mains-only retracts could be a simple and strong mechanical setup...just a thought...
I will be doing some work on my ducting, and should be able to test it on Monday afternoon, if time and weather permits...
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:16 AM
  #63  
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that helps ET. I was just curious as to how the wing actually attached to the fuse. the instructions being somewhat lagging in certain aspects of this. its not like the typical ALFA models. I was wondering if you had either attached it permantely, or made it so you can remove the wing? I guess it wouldnt matter then attaching permantely, so thats probably what I may do as well.

thanks much
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:28 AM
  #64  
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Absolutely attach it permanently. It's part of the integrity of the whole airframe, otherwise, you only have the two thin fuselage sides holding the front and back of the fuse together...with the wing glued into place, it becomes pretty sturdy. I also glued in some CF strips going most of the length of the fuse on the inside. Not really needed, but might help in a crash.

There is nothing to access if you could get the wing off, anyway. The motors and controllers are in the nacelles, which are glued on, and the ele/rudder servos are on top of the wing on and can be accessed though the cockpit.
Like a lot of modern cars, this plane was not built with servicability in mind, so get everything right the first time!
The best advice in the manual:
"Trial fit and test all parts before gluing".
That bears repeating.
These are very different than the Alfas...much, much more to build. But they do come out more scale, too. Much more. If alfa made a 262, though, I'd get that, too, in a heartbeat!
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:31 AM
  #65  
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thats what I am figuring out so far.....get it right the first time :-)
I see that servicability is out of the question really. so that in mind, its time to make it all work, and button it up permantely.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:32 AM
  #66  
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Rats! I was looking forward to a flight report!
I'm going to use one of my spare BD-5 nosegear setups with the F/S wire modded to fit it. looks like it'll be easy to do. I am wondering how much drag the large gear will cause in the air. Especially if I put all the covers/doors on them.
I went to office depot looking for overhead projector clear (acetate?)paper.
No luck, where can I get some? got ducts to be made for my sniper too.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:42 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by t_burley View Post
thats what I am figuring out so far.....get it right the first time :-)
I see that servicability is out of the question really. so that in mind, its time to make it all work, and button it up permantely.
Especially the motor setups. I glued my nacelles on with Uho-por, as if you are really careful, you can gently pull the parts apart someday if needed. But the wing needs epoxy, and 30 minute at that to get it to all the right places and align it. I put some books atop the fuse to hold it down while drying. "The Good Shepard" by C.S. Forester and "SS General" by Sven Hassel! One paperback and one hardcover, not too much or you will crush the fuse!

The gear is going to cause substantial drag...just make it removeable, and you have the best of both worlds.

Acetate. Maybe an art supply store? K&S has it at most hobby stores. Or styrene. Anythign like that, anything stiffer than the paper they give you. Rolled balsa would do. Cardboard. The front ducting is super simple. Just a tube. The rear is a cone.
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:52 AM
  #68  
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Thanks ET! I'll check for it.
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Old 07-23-2006, 09:05 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by t_burley View Post
thats what I am figuring out so far.....get it right the first time :-)
I see that servicability is out of the question really. so that in mind, its time to make it all work, and button it up permantely.
That's where design becomes challenging. Its a lot easier to lock things in, and usually more practical. I make all my scratch builds near, if not 100%, serviceable, and its always effort, and usually ends up adding some weight.

Alright, sombody wake up and post here, its 9:30, I've been up a half-hour, and posted this last at 3 in the morning.

Last edited by Bill G; 07-23-2006 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:36 PM
  #70  
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Hi Guys, Bruce a good source for some nice card stock that has a real good surface and not too heavy is the lid from the box the plane came in! rolls up real nice and very stiff..just dont get it wet..you can spray it with some clear first...
E.T one of the biggest reasons they made the 262 tri gear was the jet blast kept melting the runway tarmac!..when i was in Germany I met a young(86)man that got to fly some of germanys best aircraft.he was a instructor.Flew me 163,262,109,190 plus many more..His only combat mission was as a pilot of a Mistel bomber( 190 on top a Ju 88) The bridge did not go down.They called him to combat at the end of the war.
Scott
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Old 07-23-2006, 09:58 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by turbonut View Post
Hi Guys, Bruce a good source for some nice card stock that has a real good surface and not too heavy is the lid from the box the plane came in! rolls up real nice and very stiff..just dont get it wet..you can spray it with some clear first...
E.T one of the biggest reasons they made the 262 tri gear was the jet blast kept melting the runway tarmac!..when i was in Germany I met a young(86)man that got to fly some of germanys best aircraft.he was a instructor.Flew me 163,262,109,190 plus many more..His only combat mission was as a pilot of a Mistel bomber( 190 on top a Ju 88) The bridge did not go down.They called him to combat at the end of the war.
Scott
I had heard they had to tap the breaks at the end of a run, very quick to not lose much speed at all, and then take off as soon as the tail lifted. Pretty tricky, I'd imagine.
There's been some interesting info aired on the History Channel about the 262 recently. I should have taped it.
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:41 PM
  #72  
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I had got some posterboard when I searched office depot that day so I'll use that if I can't find any acetate. It's alot heavier/thicker than the stuff that came with the kit.
It's been 100F hot this weekend, too hot to fly! Much better to drive my airconditioned car around to airconditioned hobbyshops!
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Old 07-24-2006, 01:05 AM
  #73  
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I hear ya! it hit 111f here yesterday..I can barly cool the garage to 95 with the little ac unit I have..So I cool the house to 75 then go to the garage for about 1.5 hours ata shot!
Bill G, part of the problem was the low slung low power engines.sme problem we have with modles with more power is they cause the plane to want to rotate nose up not down.So the tail would just stay glued down untill you tapped the brakes to raise the tail just before you ran out of runway.
Scott
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Old 07-24-2006, 01:56 AM
  #74  
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Just got back from lhs, no acetate so posterboard for now.
Still blazing hot but I doubt it's as hot as the inland empire!
Hey Scott, sorry bro but you have to add this ME-262 to your collection! It's too nice and too scale to not get one!
Thank god your wife is so cool about your hobby!
Bruce
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:17 AM
  #75  
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thinkin about it!!! Its so hot I had to find something to do inside so I picked up a Blade cx micro Helicopter! got about 2 hours on it in two days..I need more batteries..But i did finnish the Me 163..Ok they need to make the file sizes bigger..this sucks big Dohnuts..
Scott
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