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bent case park 300 motor

Old 03-24-2012, 12:57 AM
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Mastyrlock
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Default bent case park 300 motor

Hello everyone I have visited this forum many times and have gained impeccable knowledge from you guys and finally decided to join with a few questions of my own.
My problem is while trying to reverse the motor shaft on a brand new e flite park 300 brushless I somehow bent the front motor case trying to remove the shaft. Here is a pic of the damage.. note the shaft is still true. I have removed plenty of shafts on my apprentice's 15 motor and was trying to tap the shaft out of this 300 when I noticed I bent the case. (I thought I was tapping lightly..apparently not.)
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:58 AM
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sorry need two more posts.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:58 AM
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one more...
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:59 AM
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:19 AM
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kyleservicetech
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Originally Posted by Mastyrlock View Post
Hello everyone I have visited this forum many times and have gained impeccable knowledge from you guys and finally decided to join with a few questions of my own.
My problem is while trying to reverse the motor shaft on a brand new e flite park 300 brushless I somehow bent the front motor case trying to remove the shaft. Here is a pic of the damage.. note the shaft is still true. I have removed plenty of shafts on my apprentice's 15 motor and was trying to tap the shaft out of this 300 when I noticed I bent the case. (I thought I was tapping lightly..apparently not.)
If you were trying to drive the shaft downwards as viewed in your photo, looks like the inside of the bell needs to be supported while driving that shaft. You might take a run to the local hardware store and pick up a few of those aluminum or steel spacers. Slide the spacers over the shaft inside the bell, and place those spacers in a stout vice or similar support. Make certain no force is being placed on any part of the magnet bell.

Then drive the shaft through from the other side.

As far as your existing motor, trying to get it back straight is not an easy job. First, a dial indicator is absolutely required. Even if you get the magnet bell straight per the dial indicator, it's likely to wobble somewhere else and still have magnet clearance problems. (Yeah, I ran into this while building up a bunch of those www.gobrushless.com motors. Driving in their shafts often wound up knocking the magnet bell out of alignment.)
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:57 AM
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Default bent case park 300 motor

Sounds like your right about supporting the inside of the bell next time. Sometimes you learn the hard way. I guess I'm just going to have to get a block of wood and a mallet and go to work on it. Luckily the bell housing the magnets doesn't seem to be bent just the conical front portion if the motor. Has anyone had this happen to them on a small park motor before and happen to have any advice from experience?
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:25 AM
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kyleservicetech
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Originally Posted by Mastyrlock View Post
Sounds like your right about supporting the inside of the bell next time. Sometimes you learn the hard way. I guess I'm just going to have to get a block of wood and a mallet and go to work on it. Luckily the bell housing the magnets doesn't seem to be bent just the conical front portion if the motor. Has anyone had this happen to them on a small park motor before and happen to have any advice from experience?
Yeah on those small gobrushless motors. If the shaft is bent, from my experience you'll never get everything straight.
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:38 AM
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Done this with many motors- Here is how...it's very simple.

Drill a hole through a short piece of 2x4 a little larger than your shaft. Then, use another drill bit to drill a larger hole following the shaft hole so the collet can slide into it. Slide the shaft into the hole, push the collet into it's hole so it is flush with the wood. Use a vise to push the shaft through the end bell. You will have to have a pin to put behind the shaft to push it all the way out. Re-install it the same way using the wood and vise. You can use a piece of wood to push on to keep from damaging your shaft.

Tell you what...if you live in the lower 48 states I've got a shaft and end bell off a burnt up Eflite 300 I'd mail to you. Let me know how you want the shaft arranged and I'll do it before mailing to you or you could attempt with the method above. End bell is in great shape so you can reuse it also. Or, you could buy another motor..up to you. If interested pm me and we can work out the details.

Allan
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Last edited by swimmer; 03-24-2012 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:21 AM
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Default bent case park 300 motor

That's exactly the info I needed I'll pm you as soon as I get home. Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:14 AM
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have removed many shafts from 280s you hammered from the wrong side. drill hole in 1 inch piece of hardwood larger then shaft hammer with bell up. heat motor in oven 175 degrees take ice cube and stick shaft in ice cube for 30 seconds then hammer out with plastic mallet. putting shaft back in ,heat motor freeze shaft
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pabel View Post
have removed many shafts from 280s you hammered from the wrong side. drill hole in 1 inch piece of hardwood larger then shaft hammer with bell up. heat motor in oven 175 degrees take ice cube and stick shaft in ice cube for 30 seconds then hammer out with plastic mallet. putting shaft back in ,heat motor freeze shaft
Just asking, what is the maximum safe temperature for the magnets, and the adhesive holding them in place?
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:53 AM
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have heated e flight motors to 200 degrees many times no ill effects observed, using 175 degrees because its easier on the fingers.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:37 PM
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Over heating can destroy them. Depends on the classification. This is one of those areas where better (more expensive?) motors may be better off than cheapies.

Neodymium Magnet Information

Demagnetization

Rare Earth magnets have a high resistance to demagnetization, unlike most other types of magnets. They will not lose their magnetization around other magnets or if dropped. They will however, begin to lose strength if they are heated above their maximum operating temperature, which is 176F (80C) for standard N grades. They will completely lose their magnetization if heated above their Curie temperature, which is 590F (310C) for standard N grades. Some of our magnets are of high temperature material, which can withstand higher temperatures without losing strength.
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